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Hello, I have a 10-12 year old Exmark laser Z 54" or 60" I honestly can't recall, I am a disabled senior and my Wife has been mowing our 3.5 acres since my injury in 2005, but anyway when she engages the blades the belt comes off every time regardless of how gentle she tries to engage them. We purchased a new belt late last summer but it has progressively gotten worse, to the point the blade belt comes off every single time and she is 66 years old and does not need to push mow this 3-4 acres of lawn and very fast growing old pasture with nothing but trash grass, sage, amoung several other fast growing grasses/weeds. Also the charging system does not work and she has to use NAPA 1500 amp jump starters, it will pull one down and kill the engine before she completes all the mowing so she has two and its requires both, and then they get weaker and weaker from such a deep discharge so we have to purchase a new one every spring and continue to use the strongest of the two from the prior season, that is cheaper than having it repaired although it is very aggravating. As I stated earlier iam a disabled senior and my wife is retired and we survive on very limited monthly incomes and can't afford to take it into the Exmark dealer for repairs, any and all suggestions/recommendations/help is very greatly appreaciated, given the proper troubleshooting and repair instructions our son in law hopefully can make the repairs. Thanks in advance for all that may contribute, not much I can do as I am 98-99% bedridden. Ancienly awaiting your reply.

Thanks

That mower sounds like it is well & truely past an important appointment with a workshop.

Belts jumping off are usually due to alignment problems and on big decks the usual culprit is the tensioning pulley and / or arm.
It is essential that they get greased regularly and the spring tension gets adjusted as needed.

The motor obviously needs some attention but the information you have given us is tandamount to useless.
Describe exactly what you see & hear from the second she turns the key, clicks, whines, bangs, pops the lot. Treat us as if we were deaf & blind, because that is exactly what we are.
You are our eyes & ears.

So for starter we need to know the model number abd year of the mower the brand sizw and model number of the engine.

Finally we need to know your mechanical & electrical ability and what tools you have available.

Call nearby churches & see if they have a member or members that can help you folks out, by repairing your mower or cutting your grass, it's not about the money, it's about serving. I'm truly sorry you are bedridden Wilber256.

OK, After getting the wounds patched up from skinning and cutting arms and right knee I have some info.

eXmark Lazer Z
Model #LZ23kC604
Serial #34266
Kohler Command
Pro 23
Date of MFG ?

I removed the belt covers and I believe there is some problems with the idler pulley and maybe spring, of course the belt was off the majority of the pulleys so there was no tension, but the tension spring is loose and fell off its notches when I touched it and it will not stay up where it belongs. I can't remove the belt myself to see if there is a number on it, it is very unlikely the dealer gave us the wrong belt but possible, it tried to move the pulleys for slack mtThe ones I could reach all were tight, I moved the idler/blade engage pulley to the tigh position but being the belt is off I am not sure if it is correct or not but it just don't feel right to me. As far as noise is concerned there is none with either problem, starts up good the start to engage blades and you hear the engine slightly bog down as usual for 1/2 second or so then the engine picks back up as expected. As far as the charging problem you can't hear any different sounds just normal cranking/starting sounds it just don't produce voltage to charge the battery if fact it will pull the 1500 amp jump starters down to the point of the engine dieing and requires the other jump starter to be use to finish mowing. On occasion it will kill both batts and the one on charge has not charged enough to start the mower and park it in the shed. As far as my aptitude I was a Electrican/HVACR/Plumbing Contractor. I have several hand tools, what I can find and hasn't been stolen, while the cat was down and the mice where still around. Mechanic Mark thank you for the kind sentiment. Thank you guys for taking your precious time to attempt to help, in my days I gave away about as much as I made to the needy and seniors on fixed income, I have even done heating repairs on Thanksgiving for a elderly lady without heat and of course there was no charge, have worked on Christmas Day before as I could not stand knowing someone was needing heat and I could do something about it, now I know how they feel first hand.....

Thank you for the information.
Like the others on here I would be happy to do a job on your mower labour free but it is a long way from Australia.

On the side of the plastic cover you will see the regulator / rectifier.
It will have 3 wires on it.
The two outer wires are the AC direct from the alternator. the center wire is the + DC out put and the metal case is both the earth & a heatsink.
Kohler fit a strip of brass between one of the rectifier mounting bolts and one of the cover mounting bolts.
The cover bolt tends to loosen and fall out and thus there is no circuit for the DC output.
On commercial mowers I make up a second earth strap and earth both sides ( belt & braces approach ) of the regulator.
Between the two AC terminals you should see 30V to 50V AC if the alternator is working. Anything less and you have troubles with the stator.
We will also need a resistance measurement for the clutch so dissconnect the clutch & meaasure the resistance between the wires you should get quite a few hours out of a jump start pack so I will guess the clutch is causing you greif.
The clutch could also be behind the belt throwing problem but they ain't cheap so it is better to test first.
The bearing in the center cops a hiding and they are only a light bearing to start with and a non serviceable item to boot.

Thanks bertsmobile1, Weather permitting tommorrow I will see if I can locate the alt/rectifier and have a look. On the clutch situation I am not certain I understand, this mower is a clutch free ZTR neutral, forward and reverse by using the left and right sterring/forward, reverse sticks, I can't recall a clutch inthe system, please elaborate. Thanks for your kind offer for repairing the mower, that is a very nice jesture.

Sorry.
The clutch I am talking about is the blade clutch. Sometime called the electric PTO.
That is the only thing that draws power while you are mowing.
When you are under the mower it is the big thing hanging lowest on the motor shaft.
The pulley that drives the pump and thus the wheels is right up high where you can hardly see it let alone get to it.
If you have car ramps try reversing the mower up them it will make things much easier to get at.
These can go bad and draw a lot of power, more than the mower can generate so after a while it just stops mowing and the battery never recharges.

You should see the rectifier on the right side ( discharge side ) of the mower towards the front of the engine it is about 3" x 1.5" and the 3 prong connector is quite stiff to get off if tou have to do it latter on.

I understand your situation. I am retired and do a lot of volunteer work in which I do meet a lot of people in your situation. One of the best places I do meet these people is that I deliver home meals to them called Meals on Wheels. What I will do for them if they can pay for parts I will pick up their mower and furnish pick up, delivery, and labor free. What we have in our county is Department of Aging which will work with senior people in need. I don't know what you have where you live but you might what to check out what your town or county has for help.

P

reynoldston said:

I understand your situation. I am retired and do a lot of volunteer work in which I do meet a lot of people in your situation. One of the best places I do meet these people is that I deliver home meals to them called Meals on Wheels. What I will do for them if they can pay for parts I will pick up their mower and furnish pick up, delivery, and labor free. What we have in our county is Department of Aging which will work with senior people in need. I don't know what you have where you live but you might what to check out what your town or county has for help.

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What a great program! We have meals on wheels, but never heard of the department of aging. Is it run by your local government, or is it A state organization? I know here in Tennessee there are some churches that will help people in such situations. I weed eat the ditch bank for the elderly couple across the street from me from time to time. The man is disabled and I saw his wife one evening last summer trying to mow that steep bank with her push mower. She nearly fell in the ditch and stopped for the night. After she went inside, I went into my shed, grabbed my weed eater and did the job for her without asking. I have offered to mow their lawn for them at no cost, but they refuse. He says he can do it with his riding mower.t worst part of it is, they have an adult son living with them. He doesn't lift a finger to do any yard work there.

Shughes717 said:

P

What a great program! We have meals on wheels, but never heard of the department of aging. Is it run by your local government, or is it A state organization? I know here in Tennessee there are some churches that will help people in such situations. I weed eat the ditch bank for the elderly couple across the street from me from time to time. The man is disabled and I saw his wife one evening last summer trying to mow that steep bank with her push mower. She nearly fell in the ditch and stopped for the night. After she went inside, I went into my shed, grabbed my weed eater and did the job for her without asking. I have offered to mow their lawn for them at no cost, but they refuse. He says he can do it with his riding mower.t worst part of it is, they have an adult son living with them. He doesn't lift a finger to do any yard work there.

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Its called RSVP ( Retired & Senior Volunteer Program ) and funded by federal, state, and local governments. They also get money from United Way and contributions from people. I work through a three county program called Department of aging and youth. As far as I know its a well run national program and they like a lot of paper work to go along with it. Then once a year they give us a nice meal with a good speech as to all the good we are doing.

reynoldston said:

Its called RSVP ( Retired & Senior Volunteer Program ) and funded by federal, state, and local governments. They also get money from United Way and contributions from people. I work through a three county program called Department of aging and youth. As far as I know its a well run national program and they like a lot of paper work to go along with it. Then once a year they give us a nice meal with a good speech as to all the good we are doing.

Click to expand...

Reynoldston, That is a wonderful thing you are doing, believe me someday you will be rewarded. I live in the country but in Tupelo about 25 miles NE of me they have meals on wheels, I think that is a great program they deliver daily meals to the shut in and the elderly that are unable to prepare their meals for one reason or another. That is the way we are suppose to treat each other, compassion, concern, care, kindness etc.

bartsmobile1, I can't find the alt/rectifier anywhere it must be internal. So the blade PTO is located under the mower on the motor shaft? Is this correct? My son in law has some portable metal ramps I will back up on them and have a look. One thing I did find was a loose oil filter and oil grime a everywhere oil will barely touch the stick, thank God I saw it as my wife is a typical women, crank it and drive it untill something is wrong, broken or just quits,she told me she did not know how to check the oil, I told her there is a dip stick, she replied she did not know what or where that is. So the oil and filter will need changing as its been two years since my cousin changed it for us, so it needs it badly. I feel certain it is way past needing a good grease job, as it probably has not been done in 10 years prior to my injury, both of the metal covers over the front wheel joints are missing and need replacing along with the small plastic anti scalp (?) wheels need replacing, man this think is fixing to run into some money. I better find something to sale to raise some money. Anyone needing some HVAC parts and a few tools, will sell some cheap, old Sears railroad pocket watch with a plastic display case, I have no idea if it has some gold in it but I doubt it as it was a working mans watch. Old pipes and tobacco canister and pipe holder along with pipe lighter. And other items....

You are 99% bedridden and with mowing 4 acres of lawn. You and your son in law are under the lawn mower trying to fix it??? Then you are going to sell all your belongings to fix this mower. There is a lot more to making the repairs then having then a bunch of people on a forum making guesses as what is wrong with your mower. Belts coming off- bad pulleys, bearings. bent brackets, and the list can go on. Charging system- blown fuse, loose wires, bad stator, bad voltage regulator etc. If your are going to fix it yourself do only one thing at a time and think things out or you can end up with a large pile of parts. I have a ATV in my shop that the owner did that with and gave up on it and all it did is to make my job harder. I do feel sorry for you but it might be time to cut back on the size of your lawn a little and maybe get a smaller used cheap mower. I really do hope you the best of luck on repairing your mower because its hard to have to give up the things in in your life you enjoy. My wife is handicap so I am seeing this happen all the time.

Very true statements reynoldston, but, to fully understand the financial situation you have to be on the inside looking out, not the outside looking in, I am not trying to save money by fixing the mower myself, I am not a tightwad and have repaired a many of items after Bill and Joe tried and as you mentioned made matters worse. I am trying to fix my mower because I don't have the money to pay someone else to do it for me, plain and simple, oh yes I could manage to come up with some of it by not using all my prescriptions next month or cut back on other things like food, power etc. but those items have been cut back pretty close and it never fails, I mean never, when we can manage to get ahead a few dollars then something happends that will use that up and in many cases more. I am up to my cow licks in debt , mostly to high interest finance companies as my credit is ruined due to not being able to make all payments each month, we have to skip one or two on good months and three or four on bad months. Depending on the cost of just parts alone, it is quite possible I will be borrowing more on one of those and forced to refinance the money I am already financed on, so that would make it paying back 300% more than what was original borrowed, we recently had to redo a loan for $1000.00 to have a couple of limbs cut that were hanging over our house, well that $1000.00 will wind up being over $2000.00 if we don't have to borrow more on that one, believe me it's not fun living this way, it may take a month or three to be able to afford the parts, so the mower may still be sitting for who knows how long. I am not a parts changer myself, I have always prided myself in troubleshooting instead of throwing parts at something until it is fixed, I hope that that is what you guys are going to be able to help me with, narrow it down to one or two items, it can't be a bucket load of items that would cause the charging problem or belt comming off while trying to engage the blades. Depending on cost, it may require prolonging one of the repairs, we have been using the jumpstarters for 4-5 years this year so another season won't hurt, I am hopeing the charging problem is less than the $180.00 jump starter, I had rather spend that on a permanent repair, but if it's $250 + then we will continue as we have if we can get the thing to mow.

Wilber256 said:

Reynoldston, That is a wonderful thing you are doing, believe me someday you will be rewarded. I live in the country but in Tupelo about 25 miles NE of me they have meals on wheels, I think that is a great program they deliver daily meals to the shut in and the elderly that are unable to prepare their meals for one reason or another. That is the way we are suppose to treat each other, compassion, concern, care, kindness etc.

bartsmobile1, I can't find the alt/rectifier anywhere it must be internal. So the blade PTO is located under the mower on the motor shaft? Is this correct? My son in law has some portable metal ramps I will back up on them and have a look. One thing I did find was a loose oil filter and oil grime a everywhere oil will barely touch the stick, thank God I saw it as my wife is a typical women, crank it and drive it untill something is wrong, broken or just quits,she told me she did not know how to check the oil, I told her there is a dip stick, she replied she did not know what or where that is. So the oil and filter will need changing as its been two years since my cousin changed it for us, so it needs it badly. I feel certain it is way past needing a good grease job, as it probably has not been done in 10 years prior to my injury, both of the metal covers over the front wheel joints are missing and need replacing along with the small plastic anti scalp (?) wheels need replacing, man this think is fixing to run into some money. I better find something to sale to raise some money. Anyone needing some HVAC parts and a few tools, will sell some cheap, old Sears railroad pocket watch with a plastic display case, I have no idea if it has some gold in it but I doubt it as it was a working mans watch. Old pipes and tobacco canister and pipe holder along with pipe lighter. And other items....

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This is what you are looking for

Right above the yellow oil filter is a rectangle sort of shape with 3 wires hanging off it. Two white & one purple.
That is the rectifiec/ regulator and yours will be in the same place.
You will probably skin your knuckles on it when you replace the oil filter
It is held in by the two screws, one either side and on the picture the right screw ( foreward one ) has the earth strap on it.
With the engine running you should get 30V to 40V AC between the two white wires and 12V to 14 V DC between the purple one & earth.
The purple wire goes back to the ignition switch and then the battery to recharge it and has a bad habbit of breaking so on a few mowers I have pulled it off and run a wire directly from the middle terminal to the battery posative terminal.
I gather some one got under the mower, so what was the resistanc readings for the PTO clutch ?

The engine in the picture looks nothing like my engine, my flywheel/screen is 90 degrees from this picture (behind the drivers seat, but lower) I found the part you mentioned and was going to ask about it, the location is lower and towards the seat from the pic, barely can see it, I assume it's some type regulator it appears to recess into the edge of the motor, I will take it loose tomorrow if I can get out of bed, would some pics help in anyway? If so I will take some with this iPad. I am one tired worn out, beat up, cut up bloody old man from working on this mower all day, I probably did one hour work in 8 + hours work 5 minutes rest for 20, but I believe I have fixed the belt problem, the tension/idler arm and pulley/sheave was loose just flopping around, I tighten it and gathered enough strength to wrestle the belt on, good and tight no wobble, looks good. I will need the right front wheel rebuilt, it was flopping around like a fish out of water, thr axle is worn flat where the hub has been turning, no bearings came out but a bunch of other stuff fell out when I pulled the axle out, probably have to get the dealer to rebuild it as I don't have a clue what is what and what order anything goes in, I suppose I could disassemble the other wheel but I am afraid it may come apart and then I will have to pay for two, it is good and tight I will pick up some alimites and grease all areas after I purchas another grease gun, mine bought the farm, I worked on it for two hours with no luck it must have broken with one of my guys and never said anything, I bet I have/had 4-5 of them but this one is all I could find the others are probably at a pawn shop or someone's house, I even had a battery powered one, mini ones, heavy duty ones, well no more. I need to replace a bearing in the pivot assembly of the fork for the same side as the wheel axle, I have it soaking in diesel fuel to clean and may try to repackage it if I can get if unfrozen from rust, race appears to be ok just see the imprinted shape of the rusted bearing but feels smooth. After finally getting the mower on the ramps I could not find any sign of a alternator, spindles with blades, and the main spindle(?) where the drive belt goes to the blade belt that's all I saw, am I overlooking something? If I get the wheel rebuilt and a couple of anti scalp wheels replaced we can survive just as we have in the past, would be nice to get the thing where it will charge but can get by without it. Thanks everyone, I really do appreaciate all the input I will add more tomorrow if possible.

Hello Guys, Finally able to hobbled out to the mower at 12:30, I pulled the little harness off and cleaned it with an electrical cleaner then started the mower to check for voltage the blue wire had 12.2 volts DC to ground the two white wires had 0 voltage DC to ground and 0 voltage DC between the two, the ground strap appears to be in good shape thought maybe tommorrow to remove the entire thing and give it all a good bath in electrical cleaner and wire brush where the bonding strap is attached to the motor. I engaged the blades and all seemed to work ok, before they would not engage and the belt would jump off so hopefully that has solved the problem, I did notice a alamite fitting on the tension pivot so I will grease it when someone will carry me to town to get another grease gun. Will need three wheels replaced and 2 spindle/axle/sleeve and nuts and washers. Anyone know of a good place to get parts without mortgaging the house? I don't mind ordering over the web if it's a place and reasonable, then I can use PayPal and pay it out monthly, if thet accept it. I will keep post comming and please keep suggestions and comments comming, I really need the advice and motivation as it's pretty rough bending, stooping, twisting etc, etc. about dead this evening, my wife had to Doctor all the fresh and old wounds along with was my hands, arms, etc. as I can't stand at the sink long enough to wash up, showers are rare for me because of the risk of falling, I have to hang on with one hand and wash with the other can't bend over or raise my legs so a whore bath (sink) is a lot better for me. Enough about me, sorry I don't get to chat with many people so when I do I will talk your head off. Goodnight all, and thanks......

Sorry, I forgot, my blade clutch is on the very back of the mower, it was replaced about 5 years ago and I assume it works proper as when you pull the engage knob out the blades engage and work. Thanks

Wilber256 said:

Sorry, I forgot, my blade clutch is on the very back of the mower, it was replaced about 5 years ago and I assume it works proper as when you pull the engage knob out the blades engage and work. Thanks

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Assume nothing.

The white wires are the direct feed off the stator and are AC so you need to measure the AV voltage between them.
12,2 on the output wire is too low.
Please do the tests again .
We need the AC voltage between the two white wires and the DC voltage with the motor running full speed and again with the motor running full speed and the blades engaged so you will need two people to do that one.

OK, Sorry, after re-reading your post on the voltage checking, I realized the white wires were suppose to be A/C voltage, I thought to myself as I was doing this test that something is not right as this is a alternator system that produces A/C voltage why am I only checking for D/C? That's why I rechecked your post to assure I had followed instructions correctly, which I had not. I had the mower at about 50% throttle when I made the test,. I will recheck and repost results, forgive my forgetfulness as I am on enough meds to make a Elephant forget what species he is and my mind is still in shock from my injury, 180 degree turn around from working 16-20 hour days to on my back or good days on my *** is hard for me to grasp.

No ned to appologise to me.
It is your mower, I am just trying to help you get it running properly

0 volts A/C between white wires and ground also, 11.6 v on blue to ground with blades on and throttle wide open, now to make certain I am doing this correct, I have unplugged the harness from the spade blades and checking for voltage while the wires ar unplugged .

Batt.v is at 12.3 on jump starter.

Wilber256 said:

0 volts A/C between white wires and ground also, 11.6 v on blue to ground with blades on and throttle wide open, now to make certain I am doing this correct, I have unplugged the harness from the spade blades and checking for voltage while the wires ar unplugged .

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OK you have a problem with the alternator which is why the battery is runnng down.
It is a big job requiring some heavish lifting and wrenching so it is a job to be done with a helper.
If you pull the flywheel and find a broken wire then solder it but otherwise second hand stator coils are fairly easy to come by

Kohler Command Pro 23
Model CH23S
Serial 3134001301
Family 1KHXS. 7252GC
Disp. 674

All the dope I could find on the motor

OK, did not see your post prior to my post, so then pull the screen and then the flywheel while engine is mounted on mower, where is the alt. Located? Is it behind the flywheel? Or does it mount inline/beside the flywheel and driven by the flywheel? I can't seem to find a drawing on this engine anywhere that I trust. If it requires removing the engine from the mower I better not tackle it and continue as we have in the past, but if it's flywheel only maybe we can handle that, is if difficult/complex/complicated to do this endeavor? Probably not for you as you are a professional and can do it in your sleep. Thanks for any recommendations.

Only when I sleep with a big hammer and SHMBO does not quite fit into that catagory being 5' tall and about 50kg wringing wet :laughing:
The best place to find parts break downs are the on line parts retailers and I use Jacks Small Engines a lot,
This should be your mower:- You will have to put the www bit in front of it as URLs don't work sometimes
jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/kohler/oem-cross-reference/exmark-mfg/ch23-76550-exmark-mfg-23-hp-17-2-kw/ignition-electrical-5-24-372-ch18-750
Getting the flywheel off can be a problem and in your caase it is a double problem as the stud shaft has to be disconnected then be pulled off and after that there is still not much space to work in.
Flywheel has magnets glued inside so excessive pounding on it will brake them loose.
I use an impact driver and a 2 leg puller usually but for these I made up a puller that screws into the same holes that hold the stub shaft.
I am sure that others have special tricks or know where you can get a cheap puller from over there.
On the 2000 series Cubs, I pull the engine out because it is easier to do that on them but the engine in yours sits down in a high wall bay so that is heart attack material without mechanical lifters.

Dynamite comes in small packages.... I figured the flywheel would have magnets and the stator would be directly behind it. I guess the what I would call fan is in front of the flywheel with the screen in front of that. I may make an attempt at it, but it doesn't sound like it will be the best day of my life. I have a few fan blade pullers and 3 leg misc pullers so that may be the downfall of my repair attempt, my luck is I will break or crack the flywheel or knock the magnets loose and then the price just doubled. I may go by our local eXmark dealer and ask how much for them to make the repair, only problem is if they break or crack the Fwheel or break off a magnet, I will still have to pay for the parts and labor for them to correct their mistakes, so 50-50 either way but they are set up to do repairs in their shop, and I will be out in the elements on the gravel drive to the shed. Thanks so very much for all your help I really do appreciate it more than you will ever know, maybe some day I can return the favor. Now that I found this site I may hang around some in the shadows and read and learn, I always wanted to become a small engine mechanic, when I was a young man I almost sent away for a course in SER but decided in applianc repair instead, then went to work for a Electrical Contractor, studied HVACR at night and took all and every seminar/workshop/course that I could get my hands on, well the rest is history, 40 years doing electrical, Heating and air, carpentry, plumbing, appliance repair anything dealing with construction, repair , service, maintenance or replace,but never much with these big mowers.

If you look at that diagam you will see the flywheel is bare.
the fan is plastic and is held on with tiny bolts you will definately loose on a horizontal shaft engine.
Downside is removing the drive shaft.
They either fall right off or fight you every inch of the way.
After that is off then the blower housing, fan and flywheel.

What are the chances of seeing and or being able to move the wires without all of the disassembly to check for broken or loose wires?

If you don' t mind would you please go to:
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope...670_CH680_CH730_CH740_CH750_REVISED_9_15J.pdf

The electrical starts on page 33 and tell me which type/drawing is the one that I have, I can read these and tell what goes where.

Kohler Command Pro 23
Model CH23S
Serial 3134001301
Family 1KHXS. 7252GC
Disp. 674

Thanks for all your help, if you wer'nt a boat ride away I would have you over for a cookout and beer party for all your help.

https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope...670_CH680_CH730_CH740_CH750_REVISED_9_15J.pdf

I don't know why it did not copy the entire thing......
Well maybe it did, beats me.....

Wilber256 said:

What are the chances of seeing and or being able to move the wires without all of the disassembly to check for broken or loose wires?

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Next to none
You have to at least remove the blower housing and for that you have to remove the drive shaft coupling at a minimum.
Normally they break right down where they join oto the stator.

Wilber256 said:

If you don' t mind would you please go to:
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope...670_CH680_CH730_CH740_CH750_REVISED_9_15J.pdf

The electrical starts on page 33 and tell me which type/drawing is the one that I have, I can read these and tell what goes where.

Kohler Command Pro 23
Model CH23S
Serial 3134001301
Family 1KHXS. 7252GC
Disp. 674

Thanks for all your help, if you wer'nt a boat ride away I would have you over for a cookout and beer party for all your help.

Click to expand...

I have no idea.
Usually the more complicated ignition units have more wires at the engine plug which generally lurks around the starter motor region.
One of the others who has access to Kohler's dealers web site might be able to look up the serial number and find out but I can not.
If you post the Exmark serial numbers then some one with access to the Exmark dealers web site might be able to check by serial number.

Other than that I simply take off the blower hosing and see what is in there.
The 3 different ignition systems use 3 different coils so it is obvious once you can see them.
However the alternator & reguator.rectifiers are all the same.

Took the screen off to attempt to see what all type goodies I could see, first the engine looks as if it will have to be removed as the hydraulic pump pulley does not have enough room to slide off the shaft due to the mower frame, I see no other way unless one could loosen the fan cover which raps around the entire motor then maybe one could have enough room to loosen and slide, nope no way all parts including the stator will have to slide off the end of the shaft unless it breaks into as you mentioned, but the drawing shows a solid shaft so I guess this project has come to a screeching halt. I will rebuild the wheel and replace the plastic wheels and just boogie on I suppose because there is no telling how much it will cost to do his stator replace/repair. Thanks for all your help, I have really learned a lot from you. God bless you and yours, take care of yourself especially your back, bad news on the back....