Export thread

My problem is with the following issue. The operation of the governor does not seem to be working properly. When the engine is at rest, the throttle is open. When I start the engine it runs wide open and will not idle down after starting. The governor spring will seemly not allow the throttle to close and therefore remains wide open. Any ideas as to what is causing the problem.

Kohler SV530-3222 MTD 17 HP (12.7 kW) Engine

Operation
As the governor gear rotates, centrifugal force causes
the flyweights to move outward as speed increases. As
the flyweights move outward, they cause the regulating
pin to move outward.
The regulating pin contacts the tab on the cross shaft,
causing the shaft to rotate. One end of the cross shaft
protrudes through the side of the crankcase. The
governor lever is clamped on the protruding end of the
shaft and connected with linkage to the throttle lever
on the carburetor, so any rotation of the shaft causes
corresponding movement of the throttle plate.
When the engine is at rest, and the throttle is in the
‘‘fast’’ position, the tension of the governor spring holds
the throttle plate open. When the engine is operating
(the governor gear assembly is rotating), the force
applied by the regulating pin against the cross shaft
tends to close the throttle plate. The governor spring
tension and the force applied by the regulating pin are
in ‘‘equilibrium‘‘ during operation, holding the engine
speed constant.
When load is applied and the engine speed (and
governor gear speed) decreases, the governor spring
tension moves the governor arm to open the throttle
plate wider. This allows more fuel into the engine;
increasing engine speed. This action takes place very
rapidly, so a reduction in speed is hardly noticed. As
the speed reaches the governed setting, the governor
spring tension and the force applied by the regulating
pin will again be in equilibrium. This maintains the
engine speed at a relatively constant level.
The governed speed setting is determined by the
position of the throttle control. It can be variable or
constant, depending on the application.

Try resetting the governor according to the procedure in this manual. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Ko...urage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Rivets....The cops tried to arrest me the other day! Why?
Trying to "Impersonate a Small Engine Mechanic!"

Sorry, I don’t comprehend.

I adjusted the governor arm counterclockwise and retightened it. The movement was about this much 1/16 if that. Very little movement. The problem seems to be spring tension. The spring attaches to the throttle arm. The spring attaches at the middle of the level governor arm and there is no other location. pic2. The other end of the spring attaches in the 6/27 pic within the linkage grouping. The linkage by itself holds the throttle open without the spring being attached pic3. When the spring is attached the throttle stays open and will not close or respond to the speed control handle.

my understanding, limited, is that a throttle is held open with the spring, and a governor closes it. If the governor is attached then it is not governing. On my engines the governor is a vane. It is attached to the throttle to pull it back while a spring pulls it open. The actual RPM is a balance between the two. Some engines, and I think yours is one of those, the governor is inside the engine case.

jjt0883 said:

I adjusted the governor arm counterclockwise and retightened it. The movement was about this much 1/16 if that. Very little movement. The problem seems to be spring tension. The spring attaches to the throttle arm. The spring attaches at the middle of the level governor arm and there is no other location. pic2. The other end of the spring attaches in the 6/27 pic within the linkage grouping. The linkage by itself holds the throttle open without the spring being attached pic3. When the spring is attached the throttle stays open and will not close or respond to the speed control handle.

Click to expand...

Did you also turn the governor shaft counterclockwise as far as it would go before re-tightening? The way I always explained a mechanical governor adjustment was to loosen the governor arm on the governor shaft. Move the governor arm which ever direction needed to open the throttle on the carb all the way. Some go clockwise and some go counterclockwise so if you just remember to move the arm to open the throttle all the way you don't need to remember clockwise or counterclockwise. Now once you have the governor lever moved to wide open throttle turn the governor shaft the same direction until it stops. Then tighten the governor arm fastener. One thing to be careful of on a Courage single is, when moving the governor arm to open the throttle plate on the carb to wide open, is to be careful not to let the link between the governor arm and carburetor flex. That is a very long link and it is easy to put too much pressure on it causing it to flex. If you tighten the governor arm fastener with the link flexed, as soon as you let go of it the governor is out of adjustment. If you've done the governor adjustment correctly and you get no resistance from the internal governor gear then something is wrong with the governor gear inside the block. The governor spring's job it to try and over speed the engine. The governor gear's job with proper adjustment is to not let the governor spring over speed the engine.

According to the manual you are attaching the spring in the correct holes, but I have 4 questions. 1. After you adjusted the governor, how far does the governor arm move, engine not running? 2. When you attach the spring, engine not running, can you manually close the throttle by pushing on the governor arm? 3. When the engine is running can you push the governor arm to reduce and increase engine speed? 4. What color is the spring we are talking about? It should be red and is part #20-089-11S. Let us know the answers to these questions and we’ll have a better idea on how to help you.

According to the manual you are attaching the spring in the correct holes, but I have 4 questions. 1. After you adjusted the governor, how far does the governor arm move, engine not running? 2. When you attach the spring, engine not running, can you manually close the throttle by pushing on the governor arm? 3. When the engine is running can you push the governor arm to reduce and increase engine speed? 4. What color is the spring we are talking about? It should be red and is part #20-089-11S. Let us know the answers to these questions and we’ll have a better idea on how to help you.
Question 1. it has free movement, throttle stop to wide open
Question 2. yes I can, but at rest it stays open quarter way open
Question 3. wide open !!
Question 4. red
I almost pulled the throttle shaft out of the carb trying to control the speed. Is that suppose to happen?

Remove the carburetor and check that the throttle shaft vane (butterfly) is still attached. I had several engine in the shop last year where the vane mounting had came out and one engine partiallly suck it into the intake manifold. IF the screws are missing then you need to pull the cylinder head and make they are not in the cylinder. Sometime they pass all the way through to muffler and other times they don't. That when the cylinder, cylinder head, and/or piston get damaged.

You do not seem to understand how a governed engine works
The governor tries to STOP the engine
This is proportional, the faster the engine spins the harder the governor arm pulls against the spring
When the engine is off then the governor arm is at rest because the engine is stopped which is what the governor is set to do
When you move the throttle control you stretch the governor spring and once the engine starts to revolve it is a tug-O-War between the spring and the governor
When the engine starts to revolve the governor will close down so the throttle lever will be against the throttle stop marked with the red arrow in your photos.

remove the carb there is problem with doing that. The studs coming out from the intake are so long that pulling the carb straight off can't happen because of frame issues. They dropped the engine I after attaching the carb. anyone know the work around or do I need to disassemble the bottom of the carb

Did a quick look no plate or screw to be seen. trying to get around the frame problem

I am not following you with the stud problem & am yet to see a mower where the frame prevents the carb from being removed
It is a problem I regularly come across with fire pumps & generators where the solution is to pull the studs out
When I refit these I use a pair of bolts to hold everything together then replace them one at a time with the original studs so all of the gaskets & such stay is place .

the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid is below the top of the frame and the carb studs go out pass the edge of the frame rail. How does the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid come off or how do the studs come out is the question?

Post a couple of pictures so we better understand your problem.

Have to wait for photos, wife runs camera. the carb rests of the studs and moves forwards to be removed. the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid attached to the bottom of the carb is lower than the frame rail which sits in front and below the carb itself but in front of the stil lattached Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid. So the carb can't be pulled off of the studs. I need to remove either the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid or the studs. One stud seem to wiggle while the other is tight and I have no idea how to remove the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid need to know how to remove

We’ve got plenty of time to wait, keep the better half happy, don’t push her, we’re married too.

how did we go from a governor failure issue to a carb removal? I seem to have missed that.

Did you read posts #9 & #10?

I got there because the motor was running wide open. Back to the carb removal. There is a bolt beside the right-hand stud that holds the spacer behind the carb, the right stud, and the electric connection to the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid remove it and the carb can be turned and removed. The wide-open throttle problem has been solved. The bottom of the throttle shaft has broken off at the bottom screw of the throttle plate. The broken piece of the shaft and the two screws are missing. Since the screws are outward or into the motor I have to suspect that the engine ate them when it stopped running. The motor has been run several times trying to figure out the wrong thing ie the governor. I guess that I need to check the intake manifold and see if the parts are resting there. I'll send photos of the shaft and the plate when the wife comes home. I never thought that a throttle plate would unscrew itself from the shaft.

Star Tech got it right.

thanks to all for the help wide open throttle fans

Quite often they will pass right through
Some times they get stuck in the piston
And if you are really lucky they bounce around taking diviots out of everything like me on a golf course .

that sucks. Design or assembly flaw.

Most of the screws are either staked, use with lock washers, and/or Loctite in place. It the steel screws that did most the damage here. The brass one seems flatten get blown thru. This is why I use brass replacement screws, stake them whenever I can and apply Loctite.

On Nikki carburetors I use M3-0.5 x 5mm Brass pan head screws. They comes with either steel or brass just depends on the penny pincher on their end.

looking for a new

Carburetor For Kohler Courage SV530 17hp​

Get on the Kroller web site. They have them there.