Why wont my Yard Machine tractor start? Could I have a bad ignition switch?

[ILENGINE]

Heat related failure usually takes longer than 5 minutes. I think you have either a igntion module issue, or a fuel issue.

 

[Fish]

Every time I hear about someone needing to replace an ignition module/coil, I always ask "WHY"????

For the most part these coils are pretty solid. They are called magneto ignition coils, meaning that when just bolted on, with no
"kill" wire attached, that every time the flywheel rotates at a sufficient speed, the coil will produce a spark, and what shuts off these engines, is that little terminal on the base of the coil, that circuit is sent to "ground", thus shutting off the ignition.
"Ground" is the key word, as it is normally grounded out by turning the key off, or by someone getting up off of the seat, or shifting into reverse with the blades running.

This is normal for these mowers. When coils go bad, or get "burned" up, is when somehow the little terminal on the coil gets "voltage" instead of going to ground, and a brand new coil can be destroyed "instantly" if voltage is supplied to the kill circuit, which is why I am very cautious about telling folks to "replace the coil". And many of the members here love to make fun of me for this....

And yes, one possible source of stray voltage is/can be the keyswitch, but who can say for sure without running it down? But molten wires, chewed up wires near the steering, etc...

 

[Fish]

Update !!!

Performed the test with the voltmeter (as suggested) on the new ignition switch - no current flow noticed (not even a blip).

Regapped the Magento using a business card, change spark plugs

It Started and ran for about 5 minutes then it died again

Could this be a heat related problem ?

Sorry to come in late, but the next coil you get, put it on without hooking up the kill wire, you will have to choke the engine or pull the plug to shut it down, but you won't destroy the new coil.....

 

[Fish]

Well, that is, if I am "correct"........ But I have been wrong here a lot!!!!!

 

[mechanic mark]

http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_06667_700_series_riders.pdf start at page 130

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/mssAJP-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf

Check engine oil level, spark plug & air filter for replacement, gap spark plug to spec. Adjust valves to specs.

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=adjusting valves b&s engine

 

[eller63]

Every time I hear about someone needing to replace an ignition module/coil, I always ask "WHY"????

For the most part these coils are pretty solid. They are called magneto ignition coils, meaning that when just bolted on, with no
"kill" wire attached, that every time the flywheel rotates at a sufficient speed, the coil will produce a spark, and what shuts off these engines, is that little terminal on the base of the coil, that circuit is sent to "ground", thus shutting off the ignition.
"Ground" is the key word, as it is normally grounded out by turning the key off, or by someone getting up off of the seat, or shifting into reverse with the blades running.

This is normal for these mowers. When coils go bad, or get "burned" up, is when somehow the little terminal on the coil gets "voltage" instead of going to ground, and a brand new coil can be destroyed "instantly" if voltage is supplied to the kill circuit, which is why I am very cautious about telling folks to "replace the coil". And many of the members here love to make fun of me for this....

And yes, one possible source of stray voltage is/can be the keyswitch, but who can say for sure without running it down? But molten wires, chewed up wires near the steering, etc...

Welcome to my thread and thanks (to all) for your advise. Here is the latest:

As stated, I changed magneto/coil, approx. 3 weeks ago. this week, I:

• Added new plugs
• Add new ignition switch,
• Reset the Magneto gap with a folded piece of computer printer paper,
• Traced down (followed) the kill circuit manually looking for exposure/breaks/molten wire etc. I found nothing,
• While I was in there, I cleaned all the air fins on the heads (they were filthy and clogged underneath),
• Cleaned out the carb (I know - I am reaching for straws here).
• Tried starting it (with fuel cap loosened) - nothing just reving
• Ran a steel bar to the frame, took off 1 plug, laid it againt the bar, had my son rev the motor for approx 45 secounds (with kill wire disconnected). I saw 1 spark - thats it.

Do you think the old ignition switch may have fried the new coil?

Thanks

 

[eller63]

Heat related failure usually takes longer than 5 minutes. I think you have either a igntion module issue, or a fuel issue.

Thanks-

Is the ignition module something other than the ignition switch (I just changed out with a new one Thursday)

Is the fuel problem something other than the breather on the fuel cap (I tried to start it with the feul cap off/loose)

Thanks

 

[ILENGINE]

Welcome to my thread and thanks (to all) for your advise. Here is the latest:

As stated, I changed magneto/coil, approx. 3 weeks ago. this week, I:

• Added new plugs
• Add new ignition switch,
• Reset the Magneto gap with a folded piece of computer printer paper,
• Traced down (followed) the kill circuit manually looking for exposure/breaks/molten wire etc. I found nothing,
• While I was in there, I cleaned all the air fins on the heads (they were filthy and clogged underneath),
• Cleaned out the carb (I know - I am reaching for straws here).
• Tried starting it (with fuel cap loosened) - nothing just reving
• Ran a steel bar to the frame, took off 1 plug, laid it againt the bar, had my son rev the motor for approx 45 secounds (with kill wire disconnected). I saw 1 spark - thats it.

Do you think the old ignition switch may have fried the new coil?

Thanks

There is a good chance that stray voltage has killed the new coil/ignition module.

 

[eller63]

There is a good chance that stray voltage has killed the new coil/ignition module.

Order new magneto/coil - put it on - gapped it (folder piece of printer paper -

IT FIRED RIGHT UP - ran for 1 hour without turning off!!:laughing:

Thanks everyone - for future references - If anyone mentions changing coil - suggest to also change ignition switch (approx. $16)

I got the new magneto/coil from amazon - they routed me to "outdoor Deals" Took 2 business days to get here - it only cost $16.00 (the last new one I bought cost $56).

I am crossing my fingers that it has stay power.

Thanks again everyone !!!