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Why wont my Yard Machine tractor start? Could I have a bad ignition switch?
#1
E
eller63
E
eller63
Yard Machine mtd 16.5 hp tractor mower 13a0695G062/B&S 16.5 hp 42a707 2238e1
Stopped running 2 weeks ago, added new magneto/coil. ran fine. Struggled to start today.
disconnected ground from magneto/coil, it started ran for 5 minutes backfired then died. wont start again
Stopped running 2 weeks ago, added new magneto/coil. ran fine. Struggled to start today.
disconnected ground from magneto/coil, it started ran for 5 minutes backfired then died. wont start again
#2
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
First question is do you have spark, With and without the ground wire attached to the module. If you have spark, then try putting some gas into the carb, and see if it will start, and run or run shortly and then die. Let us know and then we will have a better direction to go.
#3
LazerZLandscaping
LazerZLandscaping
Yard Machine mtd 16.5 hp tractor mower 13a0695G062/B&S 16.5 hp 42a707 2238e1
Stopped running 2 weeks ago, added new magneto/coil. ran fine. Struggled to start today.
disconnected ground from magneto/coil, it started ran for 5 minutes backfired then died. wont start again[/QUOTE
If you have a multimeter, test your battery to see if it is even dead. If it needs charging, charge it and see what happens.
#4
E
eller63
E
eller63
Ran battery down attempting to get it started yesterday - been jumping from car ever since
#5
E
eller63
E
eller63
"First question is do you have spark, With and without the ground wire attached to the module. If you have spark, then try putting some gas into the carb, and see if it will start, and run or run shortly and then die. Let us know and then we will have a better direction to go."
I disconnected ground - put ignition swith in run position, disconnect plug/laid it on engine head, had son sit/push clutch/turn key. Got a very faint (redish yellow) spark (not blue as one would expect). A spark is a Spark!!
What now?
I disconnected ground - put ignition swith in run position, disconnect plug/laid it on engine head, had son sit/push clutch/turn key. Got a very faint (redish yellow) spark (not blue as one would expect). A spark is a Spark!!
What now?
#6
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Try putting some gas in the intake and see if it will start and then die or keep running. Just to be sure, connect the positive lead of a volt meter to the ground, and the negative to a good frame ground, and turn the key on and off several times just to make sure you are not getting stray voltage to the module. Any voltage, even momentary indicates a bad key switch, and will toast a module in seconds.
#7
E
eller63
Positive lead of meter to ground (on the magneto)?
negatave lead to frame steel(?)
stray voltage to module(which module?/how would I recognize "stray" voltage?)
Thanks
E
eller63
Try putting some gas in the intake and see if it will start and then die or keep running. Just to be sure, connect the positive lead of a volt meter to the ground, and the negative to a good frame ground, and turn the key on and off several times just to make sure you are not getting stray voltage to the module. Any voltage, even momentary indicates a bad key switch, and will toast a module in seconds.
Positive lead of meter to ground (on the magneto)?
negatave lead to frame steel(?)
stray voltage to module(which module?/how would I recognize "stray" voltage?)
Thanks
#8
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Let me rephrase, Positive lead to kill wire coming from ignition module, negative to frame. All it takes is a blip of a few volts, even momentary. one of those little voltage indicator bulbs will work also. If it lights or even blinks, replace the key switch.
#9
E
eller63
Thanks Much !!!
OK - I am at my wits end !!!
While I was waiting for a response, I started following the Kill wire circuit in effort to find a break (or something). Found no obvious issues. Got to the ignition switch and found that while taking the top half of the rider apart (to access wire harnesses), 2 clusters fell from the plug that enters the back of the ignition switch (yellow and green wires separated).
Went an purchased a new ignition switch - The mechanic told me the color codes (I am good on that now). Put everything back together. STILL WONT START !!!!
A couple of times it tried to start and choked out just as I release the key so - because of that - I think the Magnet/coil is good as well as the new ignition switch ...
What am I missing here ? could the gap between the magneto/coil be off (I was told I could use a piece of alluminum foil or business card to gap it)?
Thanks
E
eller63
Let me rephrase, Positive lead to kill wire coming from ignition module, negative to frame. All it takes is a blip of a few volts, even momentary. one of those little voltage indicator bulbs will work also. If it lights or even blinks, replace the key switch.
Thanks Much !!!
OK - I am at my wits end !!!
While I was waiting for a response, I started following the Kill wire circuit in effort to find a break (or something). Found no obvious issues. Got to the ignition switch and found that while taking the top half of the rider apart (to access wire harnesses), 2 clusters fell from the plug that enters the back of the ignition switch (yellow and green wires separated).
Went an purchased a new ignition switch - The mechanic told me the color codes (I am good on that now). Put everything back together. STILL WONT START !!!!
A couple of times it tried to start and choked out just as I release the key so - because of that - I think the Magnet/coil is good as well as the new ignition switch ...
What am I missing here ? could the gap between the magneto/coil be off (I was told I could use a piece of alluminum foil or business card to gap it)?
Thanks
#10
E
eller63
Update !!!
Performed the test with the voltmeter (as suggested) on the new ignition switch - no current flow noticed (not even a blip).
Regapped the Magento using a business card, change spark plugs
It Started and ran for about 5 minutes then it died again
Could this be a heat related problem ?
E
eller63
Thanks Much !!!
OK - I am at my wits end !!!
While I was waiting for a response, I started following the Kill wire circuit in effort to find a break (or something). Found no obvious issues. Got to the ignition switch and found that while taking the top half of the rider apart (to access wire harnesses), 2 clusters fell from the plug that enters the back of the ignition switch (yellow and green wires separated).
Went an purchased a new ignition switch - The mechanic told me the color codes (I am good on that now). Put everything back together. STILL WONT START !!!!
A couple of times it tried to start and choked out just as I release the key so - because of that - I think the Magnet/coil is good as well as the new ignition switch ...
What am I missing here ? could the gap between the magneto/coil be off (I was told I could use a piece of alluminum foil or business card to gap it)?
Thanks
Update !!!
Performed the test with the voltmeter (as suggested) on the new ignition switch - no current flow noticed (not even a blip).
Regapped the Magento using a business card, change spark plugs
It Started and ran for about 5 minutes then it died again
Could this be a heat related problem ?
#11
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Heat related failure usually takes longer than 5 minutes. I think you have either a igntion module issue, or a fuel issue.
#12
Fish
Fish
Every time I hear about someone needing to replace an ignition module/coil, I always ask "WHY"????
For the most part these coils are pretty solid. They are called magneto ignition coils, meaning that when just bolted on, with no
"kill" wire attached, that every time the flywheel rotates at a sufficient speed, the coil will produce a spark, and what shuts off these engines, is that little terminal on the base of the coil, that circuit is sent to "ground", thus shutting off the ignition.
"Ground" is the key word, as it is normally grounded out by turning the key off, or by someone getting up off of the seat, or shifting into reverse with the blades running.
This is normal for these mowers. When coils go bad, or get "burned" up, is when somehow the little terminal on the coil gets "voltage" instead of going to ground, and a brand new coil can be destroyed "instantly" if voltage is supplied to the kill circuit, which is why I am very cautious about telling folks to "replace the coil". And many of the members here love to make fun of me for this....
And yes, one possible source of stray voltage is/can be the keyswitch, but who can say for sure without running it down? But molten wires, chewed up wires near the steering, etc...
For the most part these coils are pretty solid. They are called magneto ignition coils, meaning that when just bolted on, with no
"kill" wire attached, that every time the flywheel rotates at a sufficient speed, the coil will produce a spark, and what shuts off these engines, is that little terminal on the base of the coil, that circuit is sent to "ground", thus shutting off the ignition.
"Ground" is the key word, as it is normally grounded out by turning the key off, or by someone getting up off of the seat, or shifting into reverse with the blades running.
This is normal for these mowers. When coils go bad, or get "burned" up, is when somehow the little terminal on the coil gets "voltage" instead of going to ground, and a brand new coil can be destroyed "instantly" if voltage is supplied to the kill circuit, which is why I am very cautious about telling folks to "replace the coil". And many of the members here love to make fun of me for this....
And yes, one possible source of stray voltage is/can be the keyswitch, but who can say for sure without running it down? But molten wires, chewed up wires near the steering, etc...
#13
Fish
Sorry to come in late, but the next coil you get, put it on without hooking up the kill wire, you will have to choke the engine or pull the plug to shut it down, but you won't destroy the new coil.....
Fish
Update !!!
Performed the test with the voltmeter (as suggested) on the new ignition switch - no current flow noticed (not even a blip).
Regapped the Magento using a business card, change spark plugs
It Started and ran for about 5 minutes then it died again
Could this be a heat related problem ?
Sorry to come in late, but the next coil you get, put it on without hooking up the kill wire, you will have to choke the engine or pull the plug to shut it down, but you won't destroy the new coil.....
#14
Fish
Fish
Well, that is, if I am "correct"........ But I have been wrong here a lot!!!!!
#15
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_06667_700_series_riders.pdf start at page 130
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/mssAJP-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf
Check engine oil level, spark plug & air filter for replacement, gap spark plug to spec. Adjust valves to specs.
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=adjusting valves b&s engine
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/mssAJP-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf
Check engine oil level, spark plug & air filter for replacement, gap spark plug to spec. Adjust valves to specs.
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=adjusting valves b&s engine
#16
E
eller63
Welcome to my thread and thanks (to all) for your advise. Here is the latest:
As stated, I changed magneto/coil, approx. 3 weeks ago. this week, I:
Do you think the old ignition switch may have fried the new coil?
Thanks
E
eller63
Every time I hear about someone needing to replace an ignition module/coil, I always ask "WHY"????
For the most part these coils are pretty solid. They are called magneto ignition coils, meaning that when just bolted on, with no
"kill" wire attached, that every time the flywheel rotates at a sufficient speed, the coil will produce a spark, and what shuts off these engines, is that little terminal on the base of the coil, that circuit is sent to "ground", thus shutting off the ignition.
"Ground" is the key word, as it is normally grounded out by turning the key off, or by someone getting up off of the seat, or shifting into reverse with the blades running.
This is normal for these mowers. When coils go bad, or get "burned" up, is when somehow the little terminal on the coil gets "voltage" instead of going to ground, and a brand new coil can be destroyed "instantly" if voltage is supplied to the kill circuit, which is why I am very cautious about telling folks to "replace the coil". And many of the members here love to make fun of me for this....
And yes, one possible source of stray voltage is/can be the keyswitch, but who can say for sure without running it down? But molten wires, chewed up wires near the steering, etc...
Welcome to my thread and thanks (to all) for your advise. Here is the latest:
As stated, I changed magneto/coil, approx. 3 weeks ago. this week, I:
- Added new plugs
- Add new ignition switch,
- Reset the Magneto gap with a folded piece of computer printer paper,
- Traced down (followed) the kill circuit manually looking for exposure/breaks/molten wire etc. I found nothing,
- While I was in there, I cleaned all the air fins on the heads (they were filthy and clogged underneath),
- Cleaned out the carb (I know - I am reaching for straws here).
- Tried starting it (with fuel cap loosened) - nothing just reving
- Ran a steel bar to the frame, took off 1 plug, laid it againt the bar, had my son rev the motor for approx 45 secounds (with kill wire disconnected). I saw 1 spark - thats it.
Do you think the old ignition switch may have fried the new coil?
Thanks
#17
E
eller63
Thanks-
Is the ignition module something other than the ignition switch (I just changed out with a new one Thursday)
Is the fuel problem something other than the breather on the fuel cap (I tried to start it with the feul cap off/loose)
Thanks
E
eller63
Heat related failure usually takes longer than 5 minutes. I think you have either a igntion module issue, or a fuel issue.
Thanks-
Is the ignition module something other than the ignition switch (I just changed out with a new one Thursday)
Is the fuel problem something other than the breather on the fuel cap (I tried to start it with the feul cap off/loose)
Thanks
#18
I
ILENGINE
There is a good chance that stray voltage has killed the new coil/ignition module.
I
ILENGINE
Welcome to my thread and thanks (to all) for your advise. Here is the latest:
As stated, I changed magneto/coil, approx. 3 weeks ago. this week, I:
- Added new plugs
- Add new ignition switch,
- Reset the Magneto gap with a folded piece of computer printer paper,
- Traced down (followed) the kill circuit manually looking for exposure/breaks/molten wire etc. I found nothing,
- While I was in there, I cleaned all the air fins on the heads (they were filthy and clogged underneath),
- Cleaned out the carb (I know - I am reaching for straws here).
- Tried starting it (with fuel cap loosened) - nothing just reving
- Ran a steel bar to the frame, took off 1 plug, laid it againt the bar, had my son rev the motor for approx 45 secounds (with kill wire disconnected). I saw 1 spark - thats it.
Do you think the old ignition switch may have fried the new coil?
Thanks
There is a good chance that stray voltage has killed the new coil/ignition module.
#19
E
eller63
Order new magneto/coil - put it on - gapped it (folder piece of printer paper -
IT FIRED RIGHT UP - ran for 1 hour without turning off!!:laughing:
Thanks everyone - for future references - If anyone mentions changing coil - suggest to also change ignition switch (approx. $16)
I got the new magneto/coil from amazon - they routed me to "outdoor Deals" Took 2 business days to get here - it only cost $16.00 (the last new one I bought cost $56).
I am crossing my fingers that it has stay power.
Thanks again everyone !!!
E
eller63
There is a good chance that stray voltage has killed the new coil/ignition module.
Order new magneto/coil - put it on - gapped it (folder piece of printer paper -
IT FIRED RIGHT UP - ran for 1 hour without turning off!!:laughing:
Thanks everyone - for future references - If anyone mentions changing coil - suggest to also change ignition switch (approx. $16)
I got the new magneto/coil from amazon - they routed me to "outdoor Deals" Took 2 business days to get here - it only cost $16.00 (the last new one I bought cost $56).
I am crossing my fingers that it has stay power.
Thanks again everyone !!!