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Why are there such a wide range of reviews good to bad on the same model ?

Jun 25, 2016#1

G

GKL

The YTA22V46 doesn't have a lot of reviews yet, but I read several reviews that gave it 4 or 5 stars and they were very happy with the YTA22V46, then I read some reviews that gave it 1 or 2 stars and said it was a piece of junk, what gives ? can it be basically a good product and maybe about 1/3 of them are "lemons" ?

I ordered one and it is scheduled to be delivered Monday, should I be concerned, or are "lemons" fairly rare and people are more likely to post a review when they have problems and those who are happy with their purchase less likely to post a review ?

Jun 26, 2016#2

B

bertsmobile1

Some people have difficulty believing that the "magic Pudding" that mummy read to them at bed time was a children's fantasy story.
Some people believe that if they buy the most expensive thing they can afford then it must be prefect without regard to where that item sits in the product heiracy .
Some people believe what sales people tell them.
Some people buy a bottom end product & expect it to run better than the top end product. ( because they know they are all the same )
Some people can not accept that occasionally a dud slips past the QC department
Some people would rather make them self into a "heroic victium" than following tried & trusted consumer advocacy procedures.
Some people buy the wrong product for their requirement then can not accept it was their fault for not researching properly before they opened their wallets.

Others just buy a product with low expectations find it does everything they required of it and are happy.
Most reviews are negative because people want to vent their spleen when things do not go the way they want it to.

Jun 26, 2016#3

G

GKL

bertsmobile1 said:
Some people have difficulty believing that the "magic Pudding" that mummy read to them at bed time was a children's fantasy story.
Some people believe that if they buy the most expensive thing they can afford then it must be prefect without regard to where that item sits in the product heiracy .
Some people believe what sales people tell them.
Some people buy a bottom end product & expect it to run better than the top end product. ( because they know they are all the same )
Some people can not accept that occasionally a dud slips past the QC department
Some people would rather make them self into a "heroic victium" than following tried & trusted consumer advocacy procedures.
Some people buy the wrong product for their requirement then can not accept it was their fault for not researching properly before they opened their wallets.

Others just buy a product with low expectations find it does everything they required of it and are happy.
Most reviews are negative because people want to vent their spleen when things do not go the way they want it to.

Thanks for the reply and insight !

I really do realize there is no such thing as a perfect product, I just hope the YTA22V46 gives a reasonable performance and durability and not something that will need frequent repairs in the early years. I know after a product gets so many years old it is understandable things will occasionally need fixed, but hopefully not so much for at least a few years.

Jun 26, 2016#4

Ric

GKL said:
The YTA22V46 doesn't have a lot of reviews yet, but I read several reviews that gave it 4 or 5 stars and they were very happy with the YTA22V46, then I read some reviews that gave it 1 or 2 stars and said it was a piece of junk, what gives ? can it be basically a good product and maybe about 1/3 of them are "lemons" ?

I ordered one and it is scheduled to be delivered Monday, should I be concerned, or are "lemons" fairly rare and people are more likely to post a review when they have problems and those who are happy with their purchase less likely to post a review ?

Unless there knowledgeable in engines, drives, decks etc people end up with or buying mowers based on what the sales people are telling them. If you already have concerns about the mower then you should have never purchased the mower. A lot on how the mower will do, operate or work depends on how and what you use it for.

Jun 26, 2016#5

G

GKL

Ric said:
Unless there knowledgeable in engines, drives, decks etc people end up with or buying mowers based on what the sales people are telling them. If you already have concerns about the mower then you should have never purchased the mower. A lot on how the mower will do, operate or work depends on how and what you use it for.

Thanks for the reply.

I was not planning on buying any attachments, but I might rethink that later, but was just using it to mow about 3/4 acre grass (not mulch) and maybe towing a wagon to move small loads once in a while. (mowing area is a combination of fairly level, but there are areas that are slightly hilly)

I guess I might be overly concerned since this is my first riding mower purchase.

A friend of mine who is more familiar with riding mowers said that Husqvarna and "Briggs & Stratton" are good brands.

Jun 26, 2016#6

Ric

GKL said:
Thanks for the reply.

I was not planning on buying any attachments, but I might rethink that later, but was just using it to mow about 3/4 acre grass (not mulch) and maybe towing a wagon to move small loads once in a while. (mowing area is a combination of fairly level, but there are areas that are slightly hilly)

I guess I might be overly concerned since this is my first riding mower purchase.

A friend of mine who is more familiar with riding mowers said that Husqvarna and "Briggs & Stratton" are good brands.

What a good brand is or isn't is a debatable issue. Everyone will have opinions on that subject. There's no doubt that Husqvarna and B&S have been around for years and are major players in the residential market. John Deere and Cub Cadet offer the same stuff, all make a full range of most outdoor power tools. The philosophy that is most generally used is you get what you pay for, I hope you have good luck with the mower.

Jun 26, 2016#7

G

GKL

Ric said:
What a good brand is or isn't is a debatable issue. Everyone will have opinions on that subject. There's no doubt that Husqvarna and B&S have been around for years and are major players in the residential market. John Deere and Cub Cadet offer the same stuff, all make a full range of most outdoor power tools. The philosophy that is most generally used is you get what you pay for, I hope you have good luck with the mower.

I understand, and with this being my first riding mower purchase I thought a mid-range price for mowing about 3/4 acre would be reasonable. If I had to mow 2 acres or more then maybe an expensive more powerful model would be needed.

The Husqvarna web site lists the YTA22V46 at a $1,749.95 MSRP, Lowes has about a one week sale at about $1600.

I saw some models of new riding mowers as low as just under $1000 and more expensive models around $2000 to $3000, so I would hope that a model with a $1,749.95 MSRP would not be considered as paying too little for a reasonably dependable model, right ?

Jun 26, 2016#8

M

Midniteoyl

I see it on Lowes for $1,529.10.. If you paid $1600, get a price guarantee refund

edit: I love this guy who though he could use it commercially

: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...f=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00GRAD2CK

Jun 26, 2016#9

G

GKL

Midniteoyl said:
I see it on Lowes for $1,529.10.. If you paid $1600, get a price guarantee refund

edit: I love this guy who though he could use it commercially : https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...f=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00GRAD2CK

Thanks, it would be nice to get about an extra $70 dollars back but was the $1529.10 for the YTA22V46 model ?

If so, perhaps various geographic locations have different sales, the Lowes web site with the location for Columbia, SC has it at - (quote from their web page) - $1,599.00 Was $1,699.00 Save 5% thru 06/29/2016

Fortunately I would be not using it commercially, but only for our own about 3/4 acre so hopefully it should handle that okay.

Jun 26, 2016#10

Ric

GKL said:
I understand, and with this being my first riding mower purchase I thought a mid-range price for mowing about 3/4 acre would be reasonable. If I had to mow 2 acres or more then maybe an expensive more powerful model would be needed.

The Husqvarna web site lists the YTA22V46 at a $1,749.95 MSRP, Lowes has about a one week sale at about $1600.

I saw some models of new riding mowers as low as just under $1000 and more expensive models around $2000 to $3000, so I would hope that a model with a $1,749.95 MSRP would not be considered as paying too little for a reasonably dependable model, right ?

If you had to mow 2 acres or more then maybe an expensive more powerful model would be needed? Your Husqvarna has a 22 hp, why would you need more power? I guess I'm a little confused.

Jun 26, 2016#11

M

Midniteoyl

GKL said:
Thanks, it would be nice to get about an extra $70 dollars back but was the $1529.10 for the YTA22V46 model ?

If so, perhaps various geographic locations have different sales, the Lowes web site with the location for Columbia, SC has it at - (quote from their web page) - $1,599.00 Was $1,699.00 Save 5% thru 06/29/2016

Fortunately I would be not using it commercially, but only for our own about 3/4 acre so hopefully it should handle that okay.

See if this comes up for you. Fort Wayne area: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-N...n-Automatic-46-in-Riding-Lawn-Mower/999990134

Jun 26, 2016#12

G

GKL

Ric said:
If you had to mow 2 acres or more then maybe an expensive more powerful model would be needed? Your Husqvarna has a 22 hp, why would you need more power? I guess I'm a little confused.

Please understand that riding mowers are brand new to me, never owned one or even driven one, so please bear with a riding mower novice

I have spent many hours pushing push mowers though

So I guess by your response I should have a good enough model (YTA22V46) to mow 3/4 acre with no problem, if it could also handle 2 acres or more ?

Jun 26, 2016#13

G

GKL

Midniteoyl said:
See if this comes up for you. Fort Wayne area: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-N...n-Automatic-46-in-Riding-Lawn-Mower/999990134

Even when I select the Fort Wayne area it still shows $1599 to me, but thanks anyhow for trying to save me an extra $70, every bit helps !

I knows Lowes also does price matching and gives an extra 10% savings if you find something sold for a lower price at another store but I researched it a lot and no one had a lower price than Lowes for the YTA22V46.

Jun 26, 2016#14

M

Midniteoyl

GKL said:
Even when I select the Fort Wayne area it still shows $1599 to me, but thanks anyhow for trying to save me an extra $70, every bit helps !

I knows Lowes also does price matching and gives an extra 10% savings if you find something sold for a lower price at another store but I researched it a lot and no one had a lower price than Lowes for the YTA22V46.

Huh, now it comes up as $1599 with sale through 6/29.. before it was $1510 with sale through 7/15. I wonder if that mean they are planning on lowering the price even farther and someone jumped the gun. Keep on eye on it..

Jun 26, 2016#15

G

GKL

Midniteoyl said:
Huh, now it comes up as $1599 with sale through 6/29.. before it was $1510 with sale through 7/15. I wonder if that mean they are planning on lowering the price even farther and someone jumped the gun. Keep on eye on it..

Interesting, since we already paid $1599 for it last Wednesday (scheduled to be delivered tomorrow per my request as I needed time to build a shed to store it in) is there a time limit as to if they would refund me the difference if they lowered the price within so many days after I bought it ?

......or am I stuck at $1599 since we already paid for it ?

I remember where some stores will give you the lower price if the price goes down within 30 days from your receipt date, but I can't remember if Lowes has that policy also.

Jun 26, 2016#16

Ric

GKL said:
Please understand that riding mowers are brand new to me, never owned one or even driven one, so please bear with a riding mower novice

I have spent many hours pushing push mowers though

So I guess by your response I should have a good enough model (YTA22V46) to mow 3/4 acre with no problem, if it could also handle 2 acres or more ?

What size engine you have doesn't necessarily dictate how much area it can handle or how fast you can mow it. You can mow what your talking about with a 15 hp engine and do it faster than you'll do it with that 22hp with the right mower. It all comes down to what you're trying to accomplish. Yes the 22hp will cut your 3/4 acre without problem but 2 acres or more all depends on how much time you want to spend mowing. :smile: I mean you have to consider your maximum forward cutting speed for the YTA22V46 is 5.5mph according to the Lowes site spec's anyway and that's not much faster than a push mower if Lowes is right.

Jun 26, 2016#17

Ric

GKL said:
Interesting, since we already paid $1599 for it last Wednesday (scheduled to be delivered tomorrow per my request as I needed time to build a shed to store it in) is there a time limit as to if they would refund me the difference if they lowered the price within so many days after I bought it ?

......or am I stuck at $1599 since we already paid for it ?

I remember where some stores will give you the lower price if the price goes down within 30 days from your receipt date, but I can't remember if Lowes has that policy also.

It also $1599 here in Florida.

Jun 26, 2016#18

B

bertsmobile1

Ric said:
What size engine you have doesn't necessarily dictate how much area it can handle or how fast you can mow it. You can mow what your talking about with a 15 hp engine and do it faster than you'll do it with that 22hp with the right mower. It all comes down to what you're trying to accomplish. Yes the 22hp will cut your 3/4 acre without problem but 2 acres or more all depends on how much time you want to spend mowing. :smile: I mean you have to consider your maximum forward cutting speed for the YTA22V46 is 5.5mph according to the Lowes site spec's anyway and that's not much faster than a push mower if Lowes is right.

5 mph is a brisk walking / medium jogging pace.
I can do an acre with a 24" 8Hp mower that is 50 years old.

Jun 26, 2016#19

G

GKL

Ric said:
What size engine you have doesn't necessarily dictate how much area it can handle or how fast you can mow it. You can mow what your talking about with a 15 hp engine and do it faster than you'll do it with that 22hp with the right mower. It all comes down to what you're trying to accomplish. Yes the 22hp will cut your 3/4 acre without problem but 2 acres or more all depends on how much time you want to spend mowing. :smile: I mean you have to consider your maximum forward cutting speed for the YTA22V46 is 5.5mph according to the Lowes site spec's anyway and that's not much faster than a push mower if Lowes is right.

Understood, thanks, but with a push power in our yard there are many areas where the grass/weeds grow way up fast and thick after a rain and can quickly get high enough that the push mower will cut out unless you go very slow or just cut half the width of the mower on the uncut part of the grass.

Some of the thicker/higher growth areas of our yard could take an hour just to do about an 40 ft by 40 ft section with the push mower, so hopefully the riding mower will make that a lot quicker and easier.

I don't mind hard work and put off even considering a riding mower in the past because I wanted the exercise from a push mower, but between getting a little older, and the weather having some really hot days, and having other projects I need more time to get to, I finally decided to get a riding mower for the first time.:smile:

Jul 10, 2016#20

PIJoe

Midniteoyl said:
I see it on Lowes for $1,529.10.. If you paid $1600, get a price guarantee refund

edit: I love this guy who though he could use it commercially : https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...f=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00GRAD2CK

I've been running my YTH2454 with a crew on my REO jobs, cutting 3-4 lawns per day (avg this year is 26,000 sq. ft.) in summer heat. Running Mobil 1, changing oil every 50 hours, belts, blades and grease always kept up, and haven't had a stutter in 4 years and hundreds of hours. To me, that's pretty much commercial use. Maintenance is key, not necessarily the machine. I can buy a SCAG and refuse to maintain it, and it'll be dead before my rider would be. It's kind of like tagging something "commercial grade" on a brochure- it's a nice phrase that makes some items seem tougher "just because" for the sake of sales. Are some better? Sure. Are all of them better? No way. It's all use, care, and maintenance IMHO.

To the OP- you should have NO issue with your tractor, if maintained per specs- that is a nice machine.

Jul 10, 2016#21

Carscw

PIJoe said:
I've been running my YTH2454 with a crew on my REO jobs, cutting 3-4 lawns per day (avg this year is 26,000 sq. ft.) in summer heat. Running Mobil 1, changing oil every 50 hours, belts, blades and grease always kept up, and haven't had a stutter in 4 years and hundreds of hours. To me, that's pretty much commercial use. Maintenance is key, not necessarily the machine. I can buy a SCAG and refuse to maintain it, and it'll be dead before my rider would be. It's kind of like tagging something "commercial grade" on a brochure- it's a nice phrase that makes some items seem tougher "just because" for the sake of sales. Are some better? Sure. Are all of them better? No way. It's all use, care, and maintenance IMHO. To the OP- you should have NO issue with your tractor, if maintained per specs- that is a nice machine.

I had a yth2454 and used it doing reo cuts. Was the best mower I used for initial cuts.
Now I just do Fannie Mae recuts. Been using toro ss5000 for a few years. Been trouble free for over 3000 hours. Maintaining it is the key.

Jul 10, 2016#22

G

GKL

Carscw said:
I had a yth2454 and used it doing reo cuts. Was the best mower I used for initial cuts.
Now I just do Fannie Mae recuts. Been using toro ss5000 for a few years. Been trouble free for over 3000 hours. Maintaining it is the key.

I'm new to riding mowers, but so far the number one thing I heard both online and offline is the importance of oil changes when needed.

If a list was made of the top 5 things to maintain your riding mower, I wonder what most people might list as what they think the top 5 is (in order of importance) ?

Jul 10, 2016#23

P

Pumper54

"If a list was made of the top 5 things to maintain your riding mower, I wonder what most people might list as what they think the top 5 is (in order of importance) ? "

Oil level and changes

Clean or replace air filter as needed

Sharpe blades

Grease moving parts as required: Spindles, pulleys anything with greaseable bearings.

Belts

Just my $0.02
Tom

Jul 10, 2016#24

G

GKL

Pumper54 said:
"If a list was made of the top 5 things to maintain your riding mower, I wonder what most people might list as what they think the top 5 is (in order of importance) ? "

Oil level and changes

Clean or replace air filter as needed

Sharpe blades

Grease moving parts as required: Spindles, pulleys anything with greaseable bearings.

Belts

Just my $0.02
Tom

very good list - and sounds logical !

.....but with inflation, I would say your $1.00 worth instead of 2 cents worth :laughing:

Jul 10, 2016#25

Carscw

GKL said:
I'm new to riding mowers, but so far the number one thing I heard both online and offline is the importance of oil changes when needed. If a list was made of the top 5 things to maintain your riding mower, I wonder what most people might list as what they think the top 5 is (in order of importance) ?

I have always changed my oil around 50 hours. Changed the brand of oil I use last oil change. Still use 30 none synthetic. Has been around 200 hours since the last change. Oil is still nice a brown. ( looks new)

#1 grease front wheels and steering gears.
#2 remove deck pulley covers and leave them off. Keep top of deck clean.

#3 remove deck belt every 50 when doing oil change and flip it over and reinstall.

#4 spray all springs and all linkage with a spray lube.

#5 when you hear a new noise find out what it is and fix it. Like spindle bearing noise. Easy cheap fix that will save you money down the road.

This is just things I do.

Jul 10, 2016#26

P

Pumper54

GKL,

Shhhhhh not so loud. The IRS will want to tax me on the 98 cents. LOL

Tom

Jul 10, 2016#27

G

GKL

Carscw said:
I have always changed my oil around 50 hours. Changed the brand of oil I use last oil change. Still use 30 none synthetic. Has been around 200 hours since the last change. Oil is still nice a brown. ( looks new)

#1 grease front wheels and steering gears.
#2 remove deck pulley covers and leave them off. Keep top of deck clean.

#3 remove deck belt every 50 when doing oil change and flip it over and reinstall.

#4 spray all springs and all linkage with a spray lube.

#5 when you hear a new noise find out what it is and fix it. Like spindle bearing noise. Easy cheap fix that will save you money down the road.

This is just things I do.

So you are saying that if you use synthetic oil you can go over 200 hours between changes ?
(being new to riding mowers I might not be ready to try that just yet :smile

You said "remove deck pulley covers and leave them off" - interesting, does leaving them on cause more problems than they prevent ?

Jul 10, 2016#28

Carscw

GKL said:
So you are saying that if you use synthetic oil you can go over 200 hours between changes ? (being new to riding mowers I might not be ready to try that just yet :smile You said "remove deck pulley covers and leave them off" - interesting, does leaving them on cause more problems than they prevent ?

I am using none synthetic oil. Just a brand I have never used before. Never have had any oil not turn black around 50 hours. I guess I doing a test kinda. I still recommend you to change your oil every 50 hours.

Cut the grass a couple times then take the pulley covers off. See all the grass stuck around the spindle? Not good at all. It traps the heat in the spindle causing bearing wear. The covers are there because some people do not know not to touch a moving pulley. Now on some mowers the belt guides are built into the covers so you would have to leave them on. Mostly mtd did this.

Jul 10, 2016#29

G

GKL

Carscw said:
I am using none synthetic oil. Just a brand I have never used before. Never have had any oil not turn black around 50 hours. I guess I doing a test kinda. I still recommend you to change your oil every 50 hours.

Cut the grass a couple times then take the pulley covers off. See all the grass stuck around the spindle? Not good at all. It traps the heat in the spindle causing bearing wear. The covers are there because some people do not know not to touch a moving pulley. Now on some mowers the belt guides are built into the covers so you would have to leave them on. Mostly mtd did this.

I'll stick with 50 hour oil changes, especially since it will take a while to reach 50 hours so it's not like I would have to do an oil change every other month :smile:

I'll have to see if my new YTA22V46 has belt guides built into the covers or not.

So if the only reason for pulley covers is to keep non-careful people from touching a moving pulley, then I could see where leaving them off might be the better option if leaving them on causes problems.

Jul 10, 2016#30

B

bertsmobile1

Two reasons
1) to protect you from injury
2) to stop the belt jumping off the pulley

The latter is more important with manual PTO's than electric clutches.

Jul 10, 2016#31

Carscw

bertsmobile1 said:
Two reasons 1) to protect you from injury 2) to stop the belt jumping off the pulley The latter is more important with manual PTO's than electric clutches.

They really only help keep the belt on if the belt keepers are part of the cover.
Most people remove the covers.
1) for heat
2) because debris collect under the cover and pop the belt off.
Around here the sweet gun balls from sweet gum trees get under the cover and get between the belt and cover.

Jul 10, 2016#32

G

GKL

bertsmobile1 said:
Two reasons
1) to protect you from injury
2) to stop the belt jumping off the pulley

The latter is more important with manual PTO's than electric clutches.

Okay, it seems I have a manual control to engage the mower blades, so I guess it might be better to leave my coves on ?

Jul 10, 2016#33

G

GKL

Carscw said:
They really only help keep the belt on if the belt keepers are part of the cover.
Most people remove the covers.
1) for heat
2) because debris collect under the cover and pop the belt off.
Around here the sweet gun balls from sweet gum trees get under the cover and get between the belt and cover.

.....not sure yet whether to leave my covers on or not since it is is manual.

Jul 10, 2016#34

B

bertsmobile1

Well it will be a suck it & see.
Don't throw them away.
If the belt keeps on jumping off them put them back on,
Or cut away enough of a hole to allow the debris to exit the cover
Or make up a guard out of a couple of lengths of rod 1/4" dia or larger

Jul 11, 2016#35

Ric

bertsmobile1 said:
Well it will be a suck it & see.
Don't throw them away.
If the belt keeps on jumping off them put them back on,
Or cut away enough of a hole to allow the debris to exit the cover
Or make up a guard out of a couple of lengths of rod 1/4" dia or larger

I never take belt covers off. They are there to protect you and the belts. I just you use a blower and clean the deck and mower after I get through mowing and remove debris. I've never had any issues with debris collecting under the covers. Also works great for cleaning the engine screens, cooling fans and shrouds.

Jul 11, 2016#36

G

GKL

Ric said:
I never take belt covers off. They are there to protect you and the belts. I just you use a blower and clean the deck and mower after I get through mowing and remove debris. I've never had any issues with debris collecting under the covers. Also works great for cleaning the engine screens, cooling fans and shrouds.

Does it need to be a very high pressure blower ?

The best I could do right now would be to hook the hose up on my shop vacuum to blow air out, but I'm not sure if that would be enough pressure.

If not, I guess the old fashioned way out cleaning it out by hand would be okay too.

Jul 11, 2016#37

Ric

GKL said:
Does it need to be a very high pressure blower ?

The best I could do right now would be to hook the hose up on my shop vacuum to blow air out, but I'm not sure if that would be enough pressure.

If not, I guess the old fashioned way out cleaning it out by hand would be okay too.

It doesn't have to be anything special. I've used the BR 200 and the BR 600 and they both do a good job. I've also used my air compressor. A hand Held blower will work. I clean my mowers off after I'm done mowing every lawn before loading them on the trailer. It helps not transporting chinch bugs and any other types of disease from one lawn to another. Try the shop vac and see how it works, it may be all you need.

Jul 11, 2016#38

G

GKL

Ric said:
It doesn't have to be anything special. I've used the BR 200 and the BR 600 and they both do a good job. I've also used my air compressor. A hand Held blower will work. I clean my mowers off after I'm done mowing every lawn before loading them on the trailer. It helps not transporting chinch bugs and any other types of disease from one lawn to another. Try the shop vac and see how it works, it may be all you need.

Thanks, fortunately I don't have to worry about carrying anything to another lawn since the mower is just used for our yard, but I can appreciate the benefit of keeping the debris from building up.

I'll see about trying the shop vac.

I just remembered I do have an electric pressure washer, but it uses very high pressure water instead of air, so I don't know if that would be advisable or not and I do want to be careful not to do anything that would hurt more than help.

Jul 11, 2016#39

M

Midniteoyl

GKL said:
Thanks, fortunately I don't have to worry about carrying anything to another lawn since the mower is just used for our yard, but I can appreciate the benefit of keeping the debris from building up.

I'll see about trying the shop vac.

I just remembered I do have an electric pressure washer, but it uses very high pressure water instead of air, so I don't know if that would be advisable or not and I do want to be careful not to do anything that would hurt more than help.

Its only high pressure when you pull the trigger.. But the main reason not to use water is it makes the grass clump and almost impossible to get out. Then it sits on your deck wet.

Jul 11, 2016#40

G

GKL

Midniteoyl said:
Its only high pressure when you pull the trigger.. But the main reason not to use water is it makes the grass clump and almost impossible to get out. Then it sits on your deck wet.

Good point. I'll stick with air and/or cleaning by hand.

Jul 11, 2016#41

Carscw

The reason to not use water is it is not good for the mower.
It gets into the bearings in the spindles. And other places.

Jul 11, 2016#42

G

GKL

Carscw said:
The reason to not use water is it is not good for the mower.
It gets into the bearings in the spindles. And other places.

Thanks, that's basically what I was thinking also.

Some weeks it is difficult to find many days where the grass is really dry, some weeks it rains just enough to keep things damp, or there could be the morning dew that lingers.

I've heard about some people saying their mower cuts good even with wet grass, but I guess that could cause problems too.

I just remembered that my mower deck has the hose attachment for cleaning under the deck, so the manufacturer must not be concerned about water, but I read where some posters advise against using the hose cleaning function. So far I am leaning towards not using it.

Jul 12, 2016#43

B

bertsmobile1

They play on peoples lazzyness.
Id is a bit more work to run the mower up on ramps and occasionally clean out under the deck.
Much easier to hook up the hose and walk away for 10 minutes.
Also the mower companies sell spindles & spindle bearings.

No mower with a bar type blade cuts wet grass particularly well.
You need the disc carriers with swing back blades to cut wet grass but I don't think the US government allows them.
It is all about airflow under the deck

Jul 12, 2016#44

Ric

GKL said:
Thanks, that's basically what I was thinking also.

Some weeks it is difficult to find many days where the grass is really dry, some weeks it rains just enough to keep things damp, or there could be the morning dew that lingers.

I've heard about some people saying their mower cuts good even with wet grass, but I guess that could cause problems too.

I just remembered that my mower deck has the hose attachment for cleaning under the deck, so the manufacturer must not be concerned about water, but I read where some posters advise against using the hose cleaning function. So far I am leaning towards not using it.

I don't necessarily agree with pressure washing a deck and mower but I also don't believe it hurts anything either. On today's mowers with the sealed bearings in spindles and every where else water just isn't really going to effect everything like it use to. I can't count the number of times or days that I've had mowed wet grass all day long in the rain and mowers are getting soaked when mowing and setting on the trailer and stay soaked and I've never had an issue unless you count your butt getting wet.:laughing:

The problem with the washout hose attachments is 90% of the time they end up plugged with dirt and when they do work they never clean the whole underside of the deck anyway, it always leaves the grass and dirt on or in centers around the spindles. If your mower is equipped with wash out ports I wouldn't worry about using them, like you said the manufacturer is not concerned about water and the mower has what a 2 or 3 year warranty and they have to fix it if something tears up. I used my wash outs on my residential ZTR's all the time and never had any issue.

As far as mowers cutting wet grass goes and how well some cut wet grass, that can have a lot to do with how you cut and what type of mower and deck, blades and BTS your using. The thing I think is comical are people who talk about cutting grass only when it's dry, :smile: that has to be one of the most ridiculous statements I've ever heard.

Jul 12, 2016#45

Carscw

A sealed bearing means it is a one unit bearing assembly. It is not water or dirt proof.

The wash out port is there to make you feel like you have something good.

I cut in the rain and at the end of the day i do maintenance on the mower.

Water in the spindles voids warranty.

Toro is even talking about voiding the warranty if you use gator blades. Test have shown that they can cause premature bearing wear.

Jul 12, 2016#46

Ric

There is no true water proof seal for bearings. Bearing seals are primarily designed to retain the lubrication inside the bearing. Most bearing seals are considered water repellent and will keep moisture out of the internal components, along with dust or dirt and other contamination. My guess would be about the only way to get water in a sealed bearing would be if you submerged it and they also make bearings to do that, not by cleaning a deck with a hose or pressure washer that's a myth.

Jul 12, 2016#47

Carscw

Ric said:
There is no true water proof seal for bearings. Bearing seals are primarily designed to retain the lubrication inside the bearing. Most bearing seals are considered water repellent and will keep moisture out of the internal components, along with dust or dirt and other contamination. My guess would be about the only way to get water in a sealed bearing would be if you submerged it and they also make bearings to do that, not by cleaning a deck with a hose or pressure washer that's a myth.

Again you know more then the experts.
I guess the guys at dalton bearing need to talk to you. Because they are wrong.

Jul 12, 2016#48

Ric

Carscw said:
Again you know more then the experts.
I guess the guys at dalton bearing need to talk to you. Because they are wrong.

No I don't claim to know more than the experts, I just used the internet

Q: What is the best water proof seal?
A: There is no true water proof seal for bearings. Bearing seals are primarily designed to retain the lubrication inside the bearing. Most bearing seals are considered water repellant and will keep moisture out of the internal components, but they will not prevent water from entering the bearing if it is submerged. If you require a bearing that can operate submerged in a liquid, we would suggest a ceramic hybrid or full ceramic bearing depending on the operating environment.

That statement came from Boca Bearings.

You can also go to this site and find THB, NSK and Timken all make and have water proof bearings http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/waterproof-bearing-141414.html

Jul 12, 2016#49

G

GKL

bertsmobile1 said:
They play on peoples lazzyness.
Id is a bit more work to run the mower up on ramps and occasionally clean out under the deck.
Much easier to hook up the hose and walk away for 10 minutes.
Also the mower companies sell spindles & spindle bearings.

No mower with a bar type blade cuts wet grass particularly well.
You need the disc carriers with swing back blades to cut wet grass but I don't think the US government allows them.
It is all about airflow under the deck

Ric said:
I don't necessarily agree with pressure washing a deck and mower but I also don't believe it hurts anything either. On today's mowers with the sealed bearings in spindles and every where else water just isn't really going to effect everything like it use to. I can't count the number of times or days that I've had mowed wet grass all day long in the rain and mowers are getting soaked when mowing and setting on the trailer and stay soaked and I've never had an issue unless you count your butt getting wet.:laughing:

The problem with the washout hose attachments is 90% of the time they end up plugged with dirt and when they do work they never clean the whole underside of the deck anyway, it always leaves the grass and dirt on or in centers around the spindles. If your mower is equipped with wash out ports I wouldn't worry about using them, like you said the manufacturer is not concerned about water and the mower has what a 2 or 3 year warranty and they have to fix it if something tears up. I used my wash outs on my residential ZTR's all the time and never had any issue.

As far as mowers cutting wet grass goes and how well some cut wet grass, that can have a lot to do with how you cut and what type of mower and deck, blades and BTS your using. The thing I think is comical are people who talk about cutting grass only when it's dry, :smile: that has to be one of the most ridiculous statements I've ever heard.

Carscw said:
A sealed bearing means it is a one unit bearing assembly. It is not water or dirt proof.

The wash out port is there to make you feel like you have something good.

I cut in the rain and at the end of the day i do maintenance on the mower.

Water in the spindles voids warranty.

Toro is even talking about voiding the warranty if you use gator blades. Test have shown that they can cause premature bearing wear.

Ric said:
There is no true water proof seal for bearings. Bearing seals are primarily designed to retain the lubrication inside the bearing. Most bearing seals are considered water repellent and will keep moisture out of the internal components, along with dust or dirt and other contamination. My guess would be about the only way to get water in a sealed bearing would be if you submerged it and they also make bearings to do that, not by cleaning a deck with a hose or pressure washer that's a myth.

Carscw said:
Again you know more then the experts.
I guess the guys at dalton bearing need to talk to you. Because they are wrong.

Ric said:
No I don't claim to know more than the experts, I just used the internet

Q: What is the best water proof seal?
A: There is no true water proof seal for bearings. Bearing seals are primarily designed to retain the lubrication inside the bearing. Most bearing seals are considered water repellant and will keep moisture out of the internal components, but they will not prevent water from entering the bearing if it is submerged. If you require a bearing that can operate submerged in a liquid, we would suggest a ceramic hybrid or full ceramic bearing depending on the operating environment.

That statement came from Boca Bearings.

You can also go to this site and find THB, NSK and Timken all make and have water proof bearings http://www.directindustry.com/indust...ng-141414.html

......I appreciate all the replies, and I understand like with most topics not everyone is going to agree on every point :smile:

Since I do not have loads of money to replace my mower frequently I need to err on the side of caution to try to get the most years possible out of my new mower :smile:

Now I know I can't take that to the extreme, for example - only mow when the grass is dry as toast :smile: .....or else my yard might get occasional long periods without being mowed at all, dry grass is preferable and soaking wet grass might not cut as well as dryer grass, but there will likely be times when the grass is not quite as dry as I would prefer, but I would likely avoid mowing really wet grass.

I guess the bottom line is what works best for my particular model (YTA22V46) as not all mowers are built the same.

Fortunately I only have to mow my own yard, so I don't have to feel pressured to mow soaking wet grass like someone with a lot of regular customers waiting for their yard to get mowed :smile:

Jul 12, 2016#50

Carscw

Ric said:
No I don't claim to know more than the experts, I just used the internet Q: What is the best water proof seal? A: There is no true water proof seal for bearings. Bearing seals are primarily designed to retain the lubrication inside the bearing. Most bearing seals are considered water repellant and will keep moisture out of the internal components, but they will not prevent water from entering the bearing if it is submerged. If you require a bearing that can operate submerged in a liquid, we would suggest a ceramic hybrid or full ceramic bearing depending on the operating environment. That statement came from Boca Bearings. You can also go to this site and find THB, NSK and Timken all make and have water proof bearings http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/waterproof-bearing-141414.html

And that's the problem with you. You only know what you read and really do not have any hands on experience.
Many of us on here have seen water in the bearings.

Jul 12, 2016#51

Ric

GKL said:
......I appreciate all the replies, and I understand like with most topics not everyone is going to agree on every point :smile:

Since I do not have loads of money to replace my mower frequently I need to err on the side of caution to try to get the most years possible out of my new mower :smile:

Now I know I can't take that to the extreme, for example - only mow when the grass is dry as toast :smile: .....or else my yard might get occasional long periods without being mowed at all, dry grass is preferable and soaking wet grass might not cut as well as dryer grass, but there will likely be times when the grass is not quite as dry as I would prefer, but I would likely avoid mowing really wet grass.

I guess the bottom line is what works best for my particular model (YTA22V46) as not all mowers are built the same.

Fortunately I only have to mow my own yard, so I don't have to feel pressured to mow soaking wet grass like someone with a lot of regular customers waiting for their yard to get mowed :smile:

For your particular model (YTA22V46) I'd mow when the grass is at it driest and often so your not cutting anything to extremely long. Late Evening is preferred. Keep your grass clippings as short as possible. Short grass clippings decompose faster and will drop to the soil to help in the fertilization needs of the soil instead of lying on top of the lawn and baking. Rule of thumb is not to remove more than 1/3rd of the total height of the grass. Take a look on the net and find out what cutting height is recommended for your type of grass.

Jul 12, 2016#52

G

GKL

Ric said:
For your particular model (YTA22V46) I'd mow when the grass is at it driest and often so your not cutting anything to extremely long. Late Evening is preferred. Keep your grass clippings as short as possible. Short grass clippings decompose faster and will drop to the soil to help in the fertilization needs of the soil instead of lying on top of the lawn and baking. Rule of thumb is not to remove more than 1/3rd of the total height of the grass. Take a look on the net and find out what cutting height is recommended for your type of grass.

Thanks for the ideas, being in a semi-rural area next to woods the areas further away from the house tends to be more of a mix of grass and fast growing weeds. It would be nice to be able to put sod in, but with 1 1/2 acres that would be way too expensive :smile:

The initial cut will tend to be of higher grass/weeds as it had been way too hot to keep up with the yard using my push mower while waiting to get the riding mower (we've been having a lot of days with the heat index being from about 105 to 112) Now that I got my riding mower I have been scanning the area with higher grass/weeds for any larger rocks and small tree stumps before cutting those areas. Also lately we've been having just enough rain to limit available mowing days.

Once I get the overall yard back to normal. it will be a lot easier to maintain :smile:

Jul 12, 2016#53

G

GKL

GKL said:
Thanks for the ideas, being in a semi-rural area next to woods the areas further away from the house tends to be more of a mix of grass and fast growing weeds. It would be nice to be able to put sod in, but with 1 1/2 acres that would be way too expensive :smile:

The initial cut will tend to be of higher grass/weeds as it had been way too hot to keep up with the yard using my push mower while waiting to get the riding mower (we've been having a lot of days with the heat index being from about 105 to 112) Now that I got my riding mower I have been scanning the area with higher grass/weeds for any larger rocks and small tree stumps before cutting those areas. Also lately we've been having just enough rain to limit available mowing days.

Once I get the overall yard back to normal. it will be a lot easier to maintain :smile:

Okay, the grass was really dry today so I gave my new riding mower the biggest workout so far since I got it not long ago and I am very pleased how it did.

Since the grass/weeds were pretty tall in the main area I focused on I started with a higher cut setting then went back over it with a normal setting and that worked good.

When putting it back in the shed I checked to clean it and was amazed there was only about 2 tiny handfuls of light fluffy dried grass debris in the pulley area, and none felt underneath where the blades are, I guess when the grass is dry enough it simply does not stick.

When reaching around where the pulleys are I found a small rubber part that I am not sure where it goes or even if it is from the tractor or just got picked up out of the grass. Here is a close-up photo in case anyone might recognize if it is from the mower and if so where does it go.

Jul 14, 2016#54

BlazNT

That looks like a seal for the hood of a car or truck. I would think it was from an automobile.

Jul 14, 2016#55

G

GKL

BlazNT said:
That looks like a seal for the hood of a car or truck. I would think it was from an automobile.

Thanks, I asked a local person who works on mowers and they said about the same thing, but that it could have come off the lawnmower hood.

I checked and still did not see where it could fit, and even doing an online search for that part I have not yet been able to find it.

At least I know it likely is not a part that would seriously affect anything.

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