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Hi guys, simple question here:

I have a FWD self propelled Craftsman lawnmower (model # 917376395, B&S engine 126T02-1443-B1). Nothing fancy. It's about 2 years old and never been serviced. I decided this year to start learning about it and tuning it up.

I was wondering -- what's the best place to get your blade sharpened and balanced? I'm sure a lot of you do this on your own, but for the sake of understanding my own limitations, I'm just interested in having this done for me.

The blade itself is $20 -- so if the service costs anywhere close to this, it seems like maybe I should just buy a new one. In terms of how much the blade gets beat up on a year to year basis, I don't have a very big property (6280 sq ft, 0.15 acres).

Just buy a new blade. It will cost you about $10 to get the blade sharpened. And keep the old blade as a back up or buy a file and practice on it yourself. You can watch some YouTube videos on how to do this.

I don't know about you guys but the new blades I have bought have never been sharp!! Even the factory blades. They use paint to keep them from rusting. There usually dull right off the shelf, or right out of the package. If your blade is in good shape. Ie not bent. It can be sharpened. Figure 5-10 bucks to sharpen off the mower. When I install new blades I always sharpen first. If know-body in your area can do it. Cover the shipping and I'll sharpen no charge.

A trip to sears is in your future

Mower Doctor 78006 said:

I don't know about you guys but the new blades I have bought have never been sharp!! Even the factory blades. They use paint to keep them from rusting. There usually dull right off the shelf, or right out of the package. If your blade is in good shape. Ie not bent. It can be sharpened. Figure 5-10 bucks to sharpen off the mower. When I install new blades I always sharpen first. If know-body in your area can do it. Cover the shipping and I'll sharpen no charge.

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With the cost of shipping anymore you can but a new blade just as cheap. For what little you will be using it you can buy a grinder 15.00 dollars and blade balancer 5.00 dollars from Harbor Freight for a low cost and you can have a life time of sharping's.

Just thought I would help the guy out............... At harbor freight you get what you pay for!!

reynoldston said:

With the cost of shipping anymore you can but a new blade just as cheap. For what little you will be using it you can buy a grinder 15.00 dollars and blade balancer 5.00 dollars from Harbor Freight for a low cost and you can have a life time of sharping's.

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No 15 dollar grinders here.........
Search results for: 'bench grinder'

Mower Doctor 78006 said:

Just thought I would help the guy out............... At harbor freight you get what you pay for!!

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Very good of you, didn't mean anything over it. Yes I agree about harbor freight is junk and you get what you pay for. I have the cheap HF set up at my camp and its about ten years old now. Just use it to sharpen three mower blades plus small jobs and it works just fine. When it go's bad I will buy another 15.00 grinder and still be money ahead. My home shop I use top brand tools. My home shop angle grinder has to be close to 45 years old and I used it doing body work on cars with many hours of use.

Mower Doctor 78006 said:

No 15 dollar grinders here.........
Search results for: 'bench grinder'

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Look at the HF 4 in. angle grinders

:drink: Its all good man.

reynoldston said:

Very good of you, didn't mean anything over it. Yes I agree about harbor freight is junk and you get what you pay for. I have the cheap HF set up at my camp and its about ten years old now. Just use it to sharpen three mower blades plus small jobs and it works just fine. When it go's bad I will buy another 15.00 grinder and still be money ahead. My home shop I use top brand tools. My home shop angle grinder has to be close to 45 years old and I used it doing body work on cars with many hours of use.

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There is no need to sharping a new blade
Putting a razor edge on a blade is just WRONG
the blade will dull faster and chip easy

Blade makers have done research and know what they are doing
The thick paint on the blades is there so you don't cut your hand and will be gone in a couple mins

Carscw said:

There is no need to sharping a new blade
Putting a razor edge on a blade is just WRONG
the blade will dull faster and chip easy

Blade makers have done research and know what they are doing
The thick paint on the blades is there so you don't cut your hand and will be gone in a couple mins

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I agree. Also when I sharpen a blade I don't worry about getting out all the nicks. I think it a waste.

reynoldston said:

I agree. Also when I sharpen a blade I don't worry about getting out all the nicks. I think it a waste.

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I do not get all the nicks out. I try and take very little off the blade.

You are entitled to your opinion!! I have been doing it that way for many years. I have been very happy with the quality of the cut. My customers have been happy with the way the blades I sharpen for them cut. They hold an edge long term. Don't show sighs of weakness ect.

I can see it now all the overseas blade manufacturers talking about paint, and oil treatment to keep the blades from rusting.
The really good blades gator magnum, gator mulcher's, and G6 blades are a better quality metal and hold there edge longer. The cheap ones. Yes even the oem blades are lower quality than the good aftermarket's they get dull twice as fast, don't stay sharp as long.............
Iam sorry if you don't know how to handle a blade with out having paint on it so you don't cut yourself you have know business having a lawn mower!!

Carscw said:

There is no need to sharping a new blade
Putting a razor edge on a blade is just WRONG
the blade will dull faster and chip easy

Blade makers have done research and know what they are doing
The thick paint on the blades is there so you don't cut your hand and will be gone in a couple mins

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Mower Doctor 78006 said:

You are entitled to your opinion!! I have been doing it that way for many years. I have been very happy with the quality of the cut. My customers have been happy with the way the blades I sharpen for them cut. They hold an edge long term. Don't show sighs of weakness ect. I can see it now all the overseas blade manufacturers talking about paint, and oil treatment to keep the blades from rusting. The really good blades gator magnum, gator mulcher's, and G6 blades are a better quality metal and hold there edge longer. The cheap ones. Yes even the oem blades are lower quality than the good aftermarket's they get dull twice as fast, don't stay sharp as long............. Iam sorry if you don't know how to handle a blade with out having paint on it so you don't cut yourself you have know business having a lawn mower!!

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First off I have been doing this for over 30 years.
Second I agree the gator blades are the best but there is still no need to put a razor edge on them.
This is not my opinion this is a fact.
I guess some people know more then the ones that have done the study's on blades and design the gator blades you use. For as much as I pay for gator blades I will trust that they know the best pitch and thickness of the blade edge for the best cut and performance of the blade.

What it really comes down to is do what works best for you.

I've used the hf angle grinder for about 5 years now... Keeps going. I sharpen my blades 2 times a week so I do razor Sharp because leaves a better cut it does go dull faster. When sharpening make sure you follow factory angle and the outer most 1/2" is the most important part its the part that actually cuts the grass the rest of the blade process the blades of grass

Sitting in a shop sharping blades for people that can not do it them selfs does not mean you you do it the right way. When you get out and cut 100 lawns a week then you can talk about the best way to sharping a blade.

Not really sure what started you on this razor edge bit. I do what I believe is right for my equipment, and my customers. You do what you believe is right for yours. Know body's is getting in to blade pitch hear. I stated a simple fact that new blades are dull!! Painted new blades are even duller. If your ok with wasting your time installing dull blades its your time. I would rather sharpen before i install then mow and see that it ripped the grass. Its your grass. your mower. Your time.

Carscw said:

First off I have been doing this for over 30 years.
Second I agree the gator blades are the best but there is still no need to put a razor edge on them.
This is not my opinion this is a fact.
I guess some people know more then the ones that have done the study's on blades and design the gator blades you use. For as much as I pay for gator blades I will trust that they know the best pitch and thickness of the blade edge for the best cut and performance of the blade.

What it really comes down to is do what works best for you.

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The paint is usually gone after the first mow.. just saying I use vice grips and a 4" angle grinder and have had amazing results lol blade balance is important I have a plastic cone balancer works good balance doesn't need to be perfect you just don't want one side to be crazy heavier than the other

Mower Doctor 78006 said:

Not really sure what started you on this razor edge bit. I do what I believe is right for my equipment, and my customers. You do what you believe is right for yours. Know body's is getting in to blade pitch hear. I stated a simple fact that new blades are dull!! Painted new blades are even duller. If your ok with wasting your time installing dull blades its your time. I would rather sharpen before i install then mow and see that it ripped the grass. Its your grass. your mower. Your time.

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A new blade is not dull.

exotion said:

The paint is usually gone after the first mow.. just saying I use vice grips and a 4" angle grinder and have had amazing results lol blade balance is important I have a plastic cone balancer works good balance doesn't need to be perfect you just don't want one side to be crazy heavier than the other

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I like using the cone

Carscw said:

First off I have been doing this for over 30 years.
Second I agree the gator blades are the best but there is still no need to put a razor edge on them.
This is not my opinion this is a fact.
I guess some people know more then the ones that have done the study's on blades and design the gator blades you use. For as much as I pay for gator blades I will trust that they know the best pitch and thickness of the blade edge for the best cut and performance of the blade.

What it really comes down to is do what works best for you.

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Your right on the money Carscw. Sharpening blades to a razor's edge is a waste of time and blade because the edge will be gone after the first mow and sharpening painted or new blades is equally a waste of time.

Ric said:

Your right on the money Carscw. Sharpening blades to a razor's edge is a waste of time and blade because the edge will be gone after the first mow and sharpening painted or new blades is equally a waste of time.

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Well thank you see we can agree on things. LOL.

exotion said:

The paint is usually gone after the first mow.. just saying I use vice grips and a 4" angle grinder and have had amazing results lol blade balance is important I have a plastic cone balancer works good balance doesn't need to be perfect you just don't want one side to be crazy heavier than the other

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Exotion do yourself a favor and throw that plastic cone away and buy a metal cone, they work a lot better than plastic.

Yeah, I used to deal with the question a lot. The new blades are dipped in thick paint, for shipping reasons...


I had my boss come back to the shop with a customer complaining that the lawnmower blades that he just picked up for sharpening had cut his hands while standing in the checkout lane.

I had to say "Well, No Chit!!!!"


yes blood and new parts don't mix too well.....

Ric said:

Exotion do yourself a favor and throw that plastic cone away and buy a metal cone, they work a lot better than plastic.

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I usually tip the silicone ones better.....

Ric said:

Exotion do yourself a favor and throw that plastic cone away and buy a metal cone, they work a lot better than plastic.

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I got one of each and don't see any different. But I must be missing something. Why is one better then the other?

reynoldston said:

I got one of each and don't see any different. But I must be missing something. Why is one better then the other?

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The plastic cone tends to get sticky, it just doesn't work well for me but the metal one works fine.

Ric said:

The plastic cone tends to get sticky, it just doesn't work well for me but the metal one works fine.

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Do you find that the cone used to balance the blade is really necessary?

LoCo86 said:

Do you find that the cone used to balance the blade is really necessary?

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Yes like I said a little of balance is not a big deal but if one side is much heavier than the other it will cause vibration and do damage to your machine

LoCo86 said:

Do you find that the cone used to balance the blade is really necessary?

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Yes and no. After you clean, balance and sharpen a blade it starts with a balance blade. I would say after some use, the blade gets build up of dry grass on and the balance is gone.

reynoldston said:

Yes and no. After you clean, balance and sharpen a blade it starts with a balance blade. I would say after some use, the blade gets build up of dry grass on and the balance is gone.

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No the grass build up is even. Next time test before you sharpen its amazing lol

I was just wondering I've always used a nail in the board technique.

LoCo86 said:

Do you find that the cone used to balance the blade is really necessary?

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That would depend on how or what you sharpen the blade with. I use a Hand held grinder but I use a sanding disk so it doesn't take off as much as a stone but still gives the blade a good edge and I don't balance but every couple of times. The Cones works better than anything else unless you want to spend more money.

LoCo86 said:

I was just wondering I've always used a nail in the board technique.

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If you have always used the nail technique you've never balanced a blade correctly.

Ric said:

If you have always used the nail technique you've never balanced a blade correctly.

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Maybe so. But I've had and used commercial equipment for over a decade and never had a problem.

As long as the mower doesn't shake a vibrate... Perfect balance doesn't improve performance

exotion said:

As long as the mower doesn't shake a vibrate... Perfect balance doesn't improve performance

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Oh ok. I thought that I might need to get a digital balancer to do it correctly.

LoCo86 said:

Oh ok. I thought that I might need to get a digital balancer to do it correctly.

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I use a nail on the wall too. The blade is going to be centered on the nail... if one side doesn't drop down then there is balance IMO.
I use a hand grinder too but it's a Makita not HF. But... I have 2 HF sawzalls and both work great. They aren't going to last as long as a real Milwaukee sawzall but they were only 10 bucks each and they haven't disappointed yet.
I watched a guy sharpen a blade with a bench grinder using a home made jig. Looks like the way to go.

Mike88se said:

I use a nail on the wall too. The blade is going to be centered on the nail... if one side doesn't drop down then there is balance IMO.
I use a hand grinder too but it's a Makita not HF. But... I have 2 HF sawzalls and both work great. They aren't going to last as long as a real Milwaukee sawzall but they were only 10 bucks each and they haven't disappointed yet.
I watched a guy sharpen a blade with a bench grinder using a home made jig. Looks like the way to go.

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You can't use a nail to balance a blade because #1 you can't put the blade back on the nail in the same spot twice in a row, #2 when you set the blade on the nail depending on the size of the blade you can already be up to 3/8" out of center. In order to sharpen the blade correctly you have to find the center of rotation and a cone does that. Tecomec makes a balancer along with Oregon or Stens reasonably priced or Magna Matic if you want to spend a bunch of money, all wall mount applications. The thing is an out of balance blade will not only or can cause vibration it can also effect the cut of the mower.

Ric said:

You can't use a nail to balance a blade because #1 you can't put the blade back on the nail in the same spot twice in a row, #2 when you set the blade on the nail depending on the size of the blade you can already be up to 3/8" out of center. In order to sharpen the blade correctly you have to find the center of rotation and a cone does that. Tecomec makes a balancer along with Oregon or Stens reasonably priced or Magna Matic if you want to spend a bunch of money, all wall mount applications. The thing is an out of balance blade will not only or can cause vibration it can also effect the cut of the mower.

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And for less then 5 dollars you can buy a balance from E-bay. If cared for will last a life time

reynoldston said:

And for less then 5 dollars you can buy a balance from E-bay. If cared for will last a life time

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You don't even need to do that, you can go to your dealer and buy the metal cones for like $3.50. That's what I use. The others are available if you want to spend the money. I would think what you need would depend on how often and how many blades your going to be sharpening.

There are just as many ways to sharpen a mower blade. As there are Oil's to put in your engine!!
Everybody believes they have the best way and that the others need to be good little sheep and listen to them.
You need to sharpen and balance your blades the way you want to!!
Do what has worked best for you!!
If sharpening in a vise with an angle grinder gives you the results you want great.
If balancing with a nail is what you like to do great!!
I have been around mower shops for years. The ones that have been doing it and are still in business keeping and bringing in happy customers 40 plus years. They hang there blades on a nail. If you know how to position the blade, and know what you are doing the nail works great. If you need a plastic, metal cone to tell you the blade is balanced great!!

Not all blade will sit on a nail.
A craftsman star will not sit on a nail.
Most MTD stars sit perfect on a nail.
I use the H center blades that will not sit on a nail.

I use the cone if just cleaning up the blade.
When I have to take the edge down because of a big chip I use a deck spindle mounted on the wall

Carscw said:

Not all blade will sit on a nail.
A craftsman star will not sit on a nail.
Most MTD stars sit perfect on a nail.
I use the H center blades that will not sit on a nail.

I use the cone if just cleaning up the blade.
When I have to take the edge down because of a big chip I use a deck spindle mounted on the wall

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No such thing as setting perfect on a nail, it's impossible because you can't sit the blade on a nail in the same place twice, it's inaccurate and not consistent and has no value in reducing vibration.

Ric said:

No such thing as setting perfect on a nail, it's impossible because you can't sit the blade on a nail in the same place twice, it's inaccurate and not consistent and has no value in reducing vibration.

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With a star center it sits on the nail in the same spot every time.

I agree with a round center it will not sit in the same spot every time.

I find that a star will not sit on the cone the same every time and a H will not sit good at all

I'll admit getting the star on the cone can be tricky... Never really dealt with an H.

I have seen two owner manuals that recommend using a nail... well actually they recommend an unthreaded bolt. How would a star or h hole fit on one of those cones?

Mike88se said:

I have seen two owner manuals that recommend using a nail... well actually they recommend an unthreaded bolt. How would a star or h hole fit on one of those cones?

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With the star you need to see all the points on the same level

I use a bench grinder and gray colored christmas tree lookin blade balancer that Stens/Rotary sell.

So none of you have ever had a proper balancer????

Fish said:

So none of you have ever had a proper balancer????

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I got a one that works.

My balancer works great, except for those old Murray ones!!!!!

A nail is just silly....

I have used a nail. Depends on the blade. I'm using a balancer this year. One like this one. My blades just have a 3/4" hole so a nail would work just as well.

I worked at "The Mower Shop" in Louisville, they bragged about their superior service, and did not have a balancer, after I started working there, all of the mechanics lined up to use my balancer, the millionaire owner still refused to buy one..

They also charged customers for valve grinding, $8.00 a valve, all they did was chuck up the valve in a drill press and hold a
piece of sandpaper on it, all of the mechanics lined up to borrow my Neway tools, when doing their own work....

Sad, when looking back on it all.......

tnman said:

I have used a nail. Depends on the blade. I'm using a balancer this year. One like this one. My blades just have a 3/4" hole so a nail would work just as well. View attachment 19953

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Really? Must be one big nail!!! So how would you know that you were on center?

Fish said:

Really? Must be one big nail!!! So how would you know that you were on center?

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May not be perfect but it gets close enough that you can tell when it's off balance.

tnman said:

May not be perfect but it gets close enough that you can tell when it's off balance.

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Well, if it was way off, I guess so.

But over %50 of the mowers out there are MTD or AYP, so a mower shop should at least have a decent balancer, eh???

Fish said:

Well, if it was way off, I guess so. But over %50 of the mowers out there are MTD or AYP, so a mower shop should at least have a decent balancer, eh???

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You would think they would. They probably don't even check the balance around here. They probably just use a bench grinder and hand them back. That's why I do my own work.

The balancer that fish shows is probably the most accurate to
Have.
The cones are used for a quick balance out in the field but not that accurate when used with the wall type.
The sharper the blade then the more economical it is to cut grass.
And if nothing else and out in the field on a breakdown then a
nail would do.

Fish said:

My balancer works great, except for those old Murray ones!!!!!

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Is that the Tecomec Magnetic Balancer?

Fish said:

Really? Must be one big nail!!! So how would you know that you were on center?

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You know your on center because the nail sits in the groove on the MTD blades with a star.

If you have a round hole it is always going to center it self on the nail. We all learned this in middle school.


If you are saying that a blade needs to be perfectly balanced then you need to take the blade off and rebalance it every time you use the mower.

We had this whole discussion last year.
You can use the cone or nail or the kind you use that is the same as my spindle on the wall. But the one thing you need to use is some type of level. I have lines on the wall. When using a cone how do you know both ends are the same distance from the table?

The nail has been used for more years then any of us have been sharping blades

Fish said:

My balancer works great, except for those old Murray ones!!!!!

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How does that balancer work?

Just simple Newtonian physics, you have to find the rotational center, and weigh/balance both sides.

Fish said:

Just simple Newtonian physics, you have to find the rotational center, and weigh/balance both sides.

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I tried using a wall mount 17 years ago and got confused. So I just stuck with a cone type. I might buy one and try using it again.

The way these post are going I must be way off on my mower blade maintenance. In the spring when I service my mower I remove the blades. If they look like they have a lot of wear I replace them. If not I clean them first, sharpen and balance them with my cheap plastic cone balancer. Then when next spring comes the next year its a repeat. The only thing that has me confused is no one seems to clean their blades, I put mine in the sand blaster and remove all the old dirt and dry grass before I do anything with them. I just don't buy the story that the dirt and grass dries on them even. Yes after a few mowing's the dirt and dry grass is on them again till next spring but who cares I don't because I don't look at then till then.

reynoldston said:

The way these post are going I must be way off on my mower blade maintenance. In the spring when I service my mower I remove the blades. If they look like they have a lot of wear I replace them. If not I clean them first, sharpen and balance them with my cheap plastic cone balancer. Then when next spring comes the next year its a repeat. The only thing that has me confused is no one seems to clean their blades, I put mine in the sand blaster and remove all the old dirt and dry grass before I do anything with them. I just don't buy the story that the dirt and grass dries on them even. Yes after a few mowing's the dirt and dry grass is on them again till next spring but who cares I don't because I don't look at then till then.

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I just assume everyone cleans the blades first.

I agree with you the dirt and grass.
I don't care if your balancer cost ten grand it is not going to do any better then the cone or nail. As soon as the blades touch the grass they are no longer perfectly balanced. Because dirt and grass does not stick to the blade in a uniformed way to keep the blades in balance.

So the outcome is using a nail will get them close enough.

This is another case of people making mower maintenance complicated.

If you want your blades perfectly balanced bring them over and for $35 a blade I will put them on a flywheel balancer.

Well, to be fair., you will never know how well your blades are balanced now will you?

you just say that the way that you do it is good enough. It doesn't really matter because you will never change your mind,
which is fine....

But if you ever get a chance to check the blade's real balance, try it, you may be surprised!!!

I just scrape the big chunks of grass and dirt off before sharpening sometimes a good seat against the table is suffecient

Fish said:

Well, to be fair., you will never know how well your blades are balanced now will you? you just say that the way that you do it is good enough. It doesn't really matter because you will never change your mind, which is fine.... But if you ever get a chance to check the blade's real balance, try it, you may be surprised!!!

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How much equipment and money do you have tied up in making sure that your lawnmower blade is perfectly balanced according to Newtons law of physics? I have a 16 penny nail. It was free.

Fish said:

Well, to be fair., you will never know how well your blades are balanced now will you? you just say that the way that you do it is good enough. It doesn't really matter because you will never change your mind, which is fine.... But if you ever get a chance to check the blade's real balance, try it, you may be surprised!!!

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I guess you are missing the point.
AS SOON AS THE BLADES TOUCH THE GRASS they are no longer in balance.

Somewhere on here is a test that was done. Three different ways to balance a blade and all three had the same outcome.

By putting a spindle on the wall and securing The blade to it ( basically what you high tech gadget does) gives the same balance as the nail.

Thousands of people never balance their blades and never have any problems because of it. We are cutting grass not flying to the moon.

When a blade is cutting the grass it is not touching the grass with the same force thru its whole turning area causing a unbalanced atmosphere.

So explain to me why a blade needs to be in perfect balance when it only stays that way till it touches the grass?

I will assume you have some kind way to check and calibrate you perfect blade balancer? Or do you assume that it is dead balls on?

I tend to trust the blade manufacturers over a company that sells a balancer and claims it's the best and only way.

Maybe I will invent a high speed blade balancer as that would be the only way to achieve true balance.

Time to invest in an automotive wheel balancer

Here's a little article you may like reading.

How NOT to Balance a Blade. A lot of You Tube videos tell you to hang your blade on a nail hammered into a wall. Bad, really bad advice. Think for a moment ... the blade is bolted on to your mower using the center of the bolt hole and then rotates about this center point, doesn't it? So does it make sense to use the edge of the bolt hole rather than the center? Of course not!
To be accurately balanced, the blade MUST (a) use the bolt hole and (b) be perfectly centered in this bolt hole. Now think about just how good a tool is a nail. It has no bearings, so it has no precision nor the smoothness only a precision machined tool with precisely machined bearings can provide. Due to numerous reasons, a nail is a joke. Would you let your tires be balanced mounted off center on the balancing machine? If you are using a nail, don't be offended - just try something better than a nail and you too will laugh at using a nail.
Why not use a "stepped cone" balancer, after all You Tube videos say use these so they must be OK, right? Wrong. A stepped cone has several per-determined step diameters which almost never precisely fit the exact diameter of your blade bolt hole. So like a nail, the blade most likely is off center. And like the nail, this balancer has no bearings, lacks precision machining, and seems to wobble forever. Add to this what you have set the cone atop - is the bench or table perfectly flat so you can get precise readings at the end of the blade? I doubt it, so you probably settle for "good enough". But it isn't - it isn't if you care to keep from ruining crankshafts or deck spindles

Interesting ... But ill stick with the cone unless my mower shakes or vibrates

Ric said:

Here's a little article you may like reading. How NOT to Balance a Blade. A lot of You Tube videos tell you to hang your blade on a nail hammered into a wall. Bad, really bad advice. Think for a moment ... the blade is bolted on to your mower using the center of the bolt hole and then rotates about this center point, doesn't it? So does it make sense to use the edge of the bolt hole rather than the center? Of course not! To be accurately balanced, the blade MUST (a) use the bolt hole and (b) be perfectly centered in this bolt hole. Now think about just how good a tool is a nail. It has no bearings, so it has no precision nor the smoothness only a precision machined tool with precisely machined bearings can provide. Due to numerous reasons, a nail is a joke. Would you let your tires be balanced mounted off center on the balancing machine? If you are using a nail, don't be offended - just try something better than a nail and you too will laugh at using a nail. Why not use a "stepped cone" balancer, after all You Tube videos say use these so they must be OK, right? Wrong. A stepped cone has several per-determined step diameters which almost never precisely fit the exact diameter of your blade bolt hole. So like a nail, the blade most likely is off center. And like the nail, this balancer has no bearings, lacks precision machining, and seems to wobble forever. Add to this what you have set the cone atop - is the bench or table perfectly flat so you can get precise readings at the end of the blade? I doubt it, so you probably settle for "good enough". But it isn't - it isn't if you care to keep from ruining crankshafts or deck spindles

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That sounds good and all, and if I were at dealer and he gave me this speech I would be like wow I need to buy a balancer with bearings and a laser and has a button on it that makes the room I'm in have zero gravity. But most of us know that using a nail is ok. This article also says that a cone is not accurate either, so if your presenting this as evidence to be true on how to balance a blade correctly then you have not balanced a blade correctly either.

Ric said:

Here's a little article you may like reading. How NOT to Balance a Blade. A lot of You Tube videos tell you to hang your blade on a nail hammered into a wall. Bad, really bad advice. Think for a moment ... the blade is bolted on to your mower using the center of the bolt hole and then rotates about this center point, doesn't it? So does it make sense to use the edge of the bolt hole rather than the center? Of course not! To be accurately balanced, the blade MUST (a) use the bolt hole and (b) be perfectly centered in this bolt hole. Now think about just how good a tool is a nail. It has no bearings, so it has no precision nor the smoothness only a precision machined tool with precisely machined bearings can provide. Due to numerous reasons, a nail is a joke. Would you let your tires be balanced mounted off center on the balancing machine? If you are using a nail, don't be offended - just try something better than a nail and you too will laugh at using a nail. Why not use a "stepped cone" balancer, after all You Tube videos say use these so they must be OK, right? Wrong. A stepped cone has several per-determined step diameters which almost never precisely fit the exact diameter of your blade bolt hole. So like a nail, the blade most likely is off center. And like the nail, this balancer has no bearings, lacks precision machining, and seems to wobble forever. Add to this what you have set the cone atop - is the bench or table perfectly flat so you can get precise readings at the end of the blade? I doubt it, so you probably settle for "good enough". But it isn't - it isn't if you care to keep from ruining crankshafts or deck spindles

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Ok so my spindle on the wall is the best way to balance a blade because the blade and the shaft are a perfect fit.
This is good reading. Like I have said when using a cone the blade does not sit good on the cone and the table or bench it sits on needs to be level and you need a way to verify that both ends of the blade are the exact distance from the table.

For a blade to be in perfect balance you would need to not just balance end to end but also side to side ( front to back )
Bottom line is all we can do is get it close.

Well I won't have to worry about my blades. I ordered 2 of these from amazon. Better get one while there one sale. I wonder how many of these are bought?

that's some serious equipment (that's what she said)

tnman said:

Well I won't have to worry about my blades. I ordered 2 of these from amazon. Better get one while there one sale. I wonder how many of these are bought? <img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19966"/>

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Please tell me you did not buy this.
I would just put new blades on every time before I spent $500 on tool that still would not balance my blades any better then what I have now.
The only way this is better then a cone is if it came with inserts so star and H blades would sit right.

Carscw said:

Please tell me you did not buy this. I would just put new blades on every time before I spent $500 on tool that still would not balance my blades any better then what I have now. The only way this is better then a cone is if it came with inserts so star and H blades would sit right.

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No I was just looking to see the different products and ran across it. If someone does buy these things, I would love to sell them a few things as well lol.

tnman said:

No I was just looking to see the different products and ran across it. If someone does buy these things, I would love to sell them a few things as well lol.

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Good.

That's a lot of money just to balance a blade then hit a rock.

Carscw said:

Good.

That's a lot of money just to balance a blade then hit a rock.

Click to expand...

Hit a wet blade of grass

LoCo86 said:

That sounds good and all, and if I were at dealer and he gave me this speech I would be like wow I need to buy a balancer with bearings and a laser and has a button on it that makes the room I'm in have zero gravity. But most of us know that using a nail is ok. This article also says that a cone is not accurate either, so if your presenting this as evidence to be true on how to balance a blade correctly then you have not balanced a blade correctly either.

Click to expand...

There are many articles out there by different sources and manufacturers that say the same thing. The nail thing was or may have been fine 40 years ago when a mower was a simple machine but in today's world mowers are nowhere close to what they were 40 yrs ago. Mowers back then weren't the High performance machines we have today, they didn't have the HP ratings they have now nor did they have the blade tip speeds we have now and they sure didn't have the blades we do now. Things have changed and the way we do things have to change. I mean really can you treat or work on a 1940 Willey's coupe with the equipment and tools we have today that you hook to a car and a computer tells you what's wrong with your engine.
You would be correct in your assumption about the cone thing, I apparently have not balanced a blade correctly either. but I will remedy that fact today because I'm ordering a balancer from Amazon before the day is out.

tnman said:

Well I won't have to worry about my blades. I ordered 2 of these from amazon. Better get one while there one sale. I wonder how many of these are bought?

View attachment 19966

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I'm going to order the Oregon 42-047 today it only cost 94.00 and the shipping is free. You can also get the Tecomec for 86.00 or the Stens or Magna Matic for 174.00

can I go back and discuss the razor sharp edge?..my mentor once told me that a razor edge on the blade could cause a grass fungus,..i worked in a shop that had that nifty blade grinder that put the perfect bevel, and I worked in one that used a 10 in bench grinder,i use a 6 in and wearing the stone down on an angle..lol.ive used a nail to balance, a cone, a ratchet handle..and we used rubber dip on the blade edges at another shop

Carscw said:

Good.

That's a lot of money just to balance a blade then hit a rock.

Click to expand...

This one is $179.00 at Amazon.

Here is something you may or need to watch

Ric said:

I'm going to order the Oregon 42-047 today it only cost 94.00 and the shipping is free. You can also get the Tecomec for 86.00 or the Stens or Magna Matic for 174.00

Click to expand...

Ric said:

This one is $179.00 at Amazon.

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Which one is the better buy besides the cost of it?

tnman said:

Well I won't have to worry about my blades. I ordered 2 of these from amazon. Better get one while there one sale. I wonder how many of these are bought?

View attachment 19966

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For that price you should buy two of them, what a bargain.

davbell22602 said:

Which one is the better buy besides the cost of it?

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The better buy I would be the Magna Matic 1000 by Magna Matic @ 199.00 the Magna Matic by Stens would be the second choice @179.00

http://www.amazon.com/MAG-1000-Lawnmower-Blade-Balancing-Instrument/dp/B0089E95UK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1396183729&sr=8-10&keywords=Blade+Balancer


[url]http://www.amazon.com/Blade-Balancer-MAG-1000-Maga-Matic/dp/B00FEZ6ZBE/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1396183842&sr=8-27&keywords=Blade+Balancer

[/URL]

Ric said:

The better buy I would be the Magna Matic 1000 by Magna Matic @ 199.00 the Magna Matic by Stens would be the second choice @179.00

http://www.amazon.com/Blade-Balancer-MAG-1000-Maga-Matic/dp/B00FEZ6ZBE/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1396183842&sr=8-27&keywords=Blade+Balancer]Amazon.com: MAG-1000 Lawnmower Blade Balancing Instrument: Home Improvement

[/URL]

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I say buy one of each that way you wouldn't wear them out as fast. It sure puts my 5 dollar plastic cone to shame. I sure am jealous.

Ric said:

The better buy I would be the Magna Matic 1000 by Magna Matic @ 199.00 the Magna Matic by Stens would be the second choice @179.00

http://www.amazon.com/Blade-Balancer-MAG-1000-Maga-Matic/dp/B00FEZ6ZBE/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1396183842&sr=8-27&keywords=Blade+Balancer]Amazon.com: MAG-1000 Lawnmower Blade Balancing Instrument: Home Improvement

[/URL]

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Ok, Im gonna get mag 1000 under Rotary 9788 part number here soon.

davbell22602 said:

Ok, Im gonna get mag 1000 under Rotary 9788 part number here soon.

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I was going to buy the Oregon but I think I changed my mind. I'm going to get the Magna Matic 1000 from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Blade-Balance...27&keywords=Blade Balancer&tag=vglnk-c2013-20

reynoldston said:

I say buy one of each that way you wouldn't wear them out as fast. It sure puts my 5 dollar plastic cone to shame. I sure am jealous.

Click to expand...

Perhaps the cones would work good enough in a pinch but for my mower business I think the Magna is the way to go because the less vibration you have the better cut you'll get.

I think if I ever bought a machines that costs over 2g I would maybe invest in one of these

exotion said:

I think if I ever bought a machines that costs over 2g I would maybe invest in one of these

Click to expand...

That's kinda my feeling. I mean if you're going to spend 8 maybe 10K on a mower is it really worth taking a chance and using a nail to balance your blades, something that doesn't work? I thought I was alright with the cone but apparently that's not the case either.

Well I bought one because I opened a repair shop, I bought mine after I had looked at several, I went with the one that a
magnet strong enough to hold up a 33" snapper blade.

When I went to work at the big shop in Louisville, the owner and all of the techs snickered when I mounted it above my tool
bench. I would have mounted it above the blade grinding station, but I thought "Screw em'"....

Within a few weeks, the techs were coming and asking if they could check their balance, and I would let them....

As I said before, their idea of a valve grinding tool was a drill press and a piece of sandpaper........................

He may have other issues on his agenda......

Fish said:

He may have other issues on his agenda......

Click to expand...

His agenda was just canceled, we don't need that.

Ric said:

His agenda was just canceled, we don't need that.

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I agree. I was kind of hoping to get into with him as to what a big pig he was :thumbdown: We don't know maybe it was a woman?

Well, if the blade is centered, then you will get a true lateral balance, but it also has an indicator to show the straightness, as
a bent blade will automatically be out of balance "rotation-wise'.

Of course, a bent crankshaft/jackshaft will exacerbate the problem as well, as most of the spindle/jackshaft failures on mowers are due to out of balance/bent blades, that the customer keeps running!!!

There is not really any reason to keep worrying about the guys here, if they want to run out of balance blades/shafts, then
blame the manufacturers, well they will keep doing it.

As far as the sharpness on the blades, well..... With their conclusions, why even take off a blade or try to sharpen, as it will be just as dull on the first pass???

Have they never sharpened their blades because the lawn looked like chit??? Then did it again, and had a much better cut?

reynoldston said:

I agree. I was kind of hoping to get into with him as to what a big pig he was :thumbdown: We don't know maybe it was a woman?

Click to expand...

I was worried that you were talking about me!!!!

No, the angle of "sharpness" varies among oem blades.

I am of course more familiar with chainsaw angles, but the same thing,eh????

Fish said:

Well, if the blade is centered, then you will get a true lateral balance, but it also has an indicator to show the straightness, as a bent blade will automatically be out of balance "rotation-wise'. Of course, a bent crankshaft/jackshaft will exacerbate the problem as well, as most of the spindle/jackshaft failures on mowers are due to out of balance/bent blades, that the customer keeps running!!! There is not really any reason to keep worrying about the guys here, if they want to run out of balance blades/shafts, then blame the manufacturers, well they will keep doing it. As far as the sharpness on the blades, well..... With their conclusions, why even take off a blade or try to sharpen, as it will be just as dull on the first pass??? Have they never sharpened their blades because the lawn looked like chit??? Then did it again, and had a much better cut?

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Again you missed the point.
There is no need to sharping blades to a razors edge. Did not say you don't have to sharping blades.

I have been balancing my blades the same way for over 30 years and have never had any problem because if the blade balance.

Any one can make a tool and claim it is the best and only way to balance a blade. Does not make it true.

Fish said:

I was worried that you were talking about me!!!!

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You must of missed porn on how to balance a mower blade, too bad. But I do agree we don't need it here because there are a lot of other places you can go for that if that is your enjoyment.

Carscw said:

Again you missed the point.
There is no need to sharping blades to a razors edge. Did not say you don't have to sharping blades.

I have been balancing my blades the same way for over 30 years and have never had any problem because if the blade balance.

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Yeah, you haven't had any problems.... So how far would the blade be dulled before you would sharpen it? If it makes no difference?

Carscw said:

Sitting in a shop sharping blades for people that can not do it them selfs does not mean you you do it the right way. When you get out and cut 100 lawns a week then you can talk about the best way to sharping a blade.

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OOOO is that it???

"Sharping" a blade?

Yes, I used to cut a bunch of properties myself..........

Fish said:

Yeah, you haven't had any problems.... So how far would the blade be dulled before you would sharpen it? If it makes no difference?

Click to expand...

Come on now I know your not dumb.

Carscw said:

Come on now I know your not dumb.

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where could I start, eh????

To keep a razors edge on a blade you would need to remove it twice per yard and put a new edge on it.

Mower blade sharpening has been taken to a much higher level than that of years ago. Almost to the point of a science. Todays mowers are designed to multiple cut the grass blades. (Grass Cuttings/Clippings)

The decks of todays mowers are designed with a domed and/or crowned designed. This design is there to provide space for the cuttings/clippings to be flipped upwards well above the rotating cutting blade.

As the clippings/cuttings fall back down, they are recut multiple times. Providing a mulching effect. Therefore, not fully discharging all of the clippings/cuttings into the grass catcher. Some are left behind to degrade into a natural fertilizer.

Thus, the blade and deck design each play a part in how the cuttings are handled, once the cut is made. A mowers blade angles and cutting surfaces are designed into the cutting method and process. The cutting angle and edge are very important. More so than simply the blades sharpness.

A dull blade will sever the grass blades. Leaving the grasses tiny veins sticking upwards. A day or so later, the grass will appear brown or slightly browned out. A sharp mower blade will create a straight clean scissor like cut. Reducing the browning or eliminating the browning effect all together.

To obtain a more perfect resharpening, follow and maintain the original angle on the straight edge of the blade. If there is a curved edge inwards towards the center of the blade, follow and maintain that angle also. The intent is keep the blade cutting as it was originally designed to. Which allows the deck to also do it's part and not leave stringy grass blade veins behind.

How sharp is sharp? Good question. The answer is not too sharp. An overly sharpened blade will dull much faster than one that is just sharpened to be be sharp. The angle must be maintained and the edge not razor sharp.

All that is needed on the outer most cutting edge when resharpening is to cleanup the dulled cutting edged surface, while maintaining the original upwards sloping angle. The inner angled cutting surface can be resharpend on a belt sander. As can the straight cutting edge.

Once the cutting surfaces are cleaned up (resurfaced) to be sharp, balance the blade and reinstall it as it was originally installed.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/e...rp-good-enough-mower-blade.html#ixzz2xTsNXxR3

so if this the case, why do you even bother sharpening at all?????

#9
KennyV

Join Date
May 2010
Posts
5,412
Location
Kansas, Butler county, Just east of DooDah
Mower
CTL

Re: How sharp should a mower blade be?
If your cutting very lush green tender fine bladed grasses... you can go toward razor sharp...
But most of us are not cutting that type lawn... In later summer and towards fall when things dry up and grasses toughen up, a razor edge will fold back and waste away quickly as has been mentioned... if you can get the edge down to about the thickness of an 18 to 20 gauge wire, it will be fine work well all season... Love those Oregon Gator mulching blades.... KennyV

Re: How sharp should a mower blade be?
The sharper the blade the easier it is to damage the edge.
I sharpen my blade to the point of making them cut good and no more than that.

IMO yes you can over do it, The new blade would be about what I would try to duplicate.

so you will go on record mentioning these silly threads?

Whatever kiddo......

It looks like you are the only one that thinks you should be able to shave with a mower blade.

that proves it all then....

Carscw said:

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20060626063104AAy9BSS

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I don't think I'd go to yahoo answers to get answers for anything.

Ric said:

I don't think I'd go to yahoo answers to get answers for anything.

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Why it's a lot of the same kind of people that are on here.

I've used it for a few things with good results head gasket replacement on my jeep 4.0 a guy made a nice step by step I followed

Ric said:

I don't think I'd go to yahoo answers to get answers for anything.

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They probably have people on there telling you to balance your blade by using a cone. Then after finding out they've been doing it wrong all these years but without any issues decide, after watching a YouTube infomercial, that a $200 balancer is the only way to balance your mower blades.

I've seen those blade sharpening gadgets that attach to the chuck of a drill, but have never used one.

Have any of you ever used one of them, and if so, what is your opinion of them?

Dave A. said:

I've seen those blade sharpening gadgets that attach to the chuck of a drill, but have never used one.

Have any of you ever used one of them, and if so, what is your opinion of them?

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For someone who has a small mower a homeowner type they may be alright but if you have a heavy blade or a number of blades to sharpen don't waste your money.

LoCo86 said:

They probably have people on there telling you to balance your blade by using a cone. Then after finding out they've been doing it wrong all these years but without any issues decide, after watching a YouTube infomercial, that a $200 balancer is the only way to balance your mower blades.

Click to expand...

I think that infomercial pretty much showed and proved the point that a nail for balancing a lawn mower blade is useless. As far as a $200 balancer, it's a $174 with free shipping for the Magna Matic 1000 but you can get the Oregon for less than half that cost. Lets talk about some issues, I replaced three spindles on a ZTR with just over five hundred hours that were worn out maybe that was why? I replaced one spindle on the Turf-master that broke blades in half, Toro said it was because of a washer that was worn caused by vibration, was either case caused by blades not balanced? I really don't know but if spending the $174 may help save some money in the long run , I'll take that chance.