I have a Yard Machines rider model 13A1660F000 (2003) that just started to act weird. I have owned this mower for 13 years and have never had this problem before. The first time I used it this year it started ok and ran normally for the first half hour. Then when I got off the mower to open my gate to the backyard, it started acting up. I disengaged the blades and took it out of gear so that I could get off it and leave it running (normal procedure). At that point the engine started to miss. It would continue to run but still miss. Then when I got back on and re-engaged the blades, it went back to running normally. Thereafter every time I got off the mower it went back to missing but continued to run until I re-engaged the blades and then ran fine. I am wondering if there is a safety switch somewhere that might be out of adjustment or has a loose connection. I have no literature on the mower to look at a parts list unfortunately, so I have no idea what to look for. I am hoping someone may have experienced this same problem and can point me in the right direction to fix the problem.
Weird Problem with Yard Machines Rider wanting to cut out.
- Thread starter Mharnisch
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mechanic mark
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Spring Switch - 925-1303 | MTD Parts
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Seat Spring Switch - 725-1439 | MTD Parts
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pages 10 & 11, items 7 & 8 seat switches in illustrated parts list, check them out since engine changes when getting off seat. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
Post engine make & all numbers from your engine: example: B&S engine model xxxxxx, type xxxx trim xx code xxxxxxxx
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Thanks for the info. I think my first step will be to look at whatever safety switches there are. Will need to look through the drawings and find there locations. I probably can jump out one switch at a time and see if I can identify a bad one. Will report back.
Spring Switch - 925-1303 | MTD Parts
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Seat Spring Switch - 725-1439 | MTD Parts
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pages 10 & 11, items 7 & 8 seat switches in illustrated parts list, check them out since engine changes when getting off seat. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
Spring Switch - 925-1303 | MTD Parts
Buy the Spring Switch online and get your OEM parts quick! Orders over $45 qualify for Free Shipping.
Seat Spring Switch - 725-1439 | MTD Parts
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pages 10 & 11, items 7 & 8 seat switches in illustrated parts list, check them out since engine changes when getting off seat. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
I located the seat switch as you described. I think it operates ok and will explain a little later. I also see on page 12 there is an interlock switch item 30. I can see where it is located but is difficult to reach. Not sure what it’s function is. I think I may not be explaining properly what is happening. Let me start over.
Since my battery went bad a few years ago, I just jump start it. with the deck lever in the blade stop position and the transmission In the parking brake position and in neutral, I have the seat tipped forward to accommodate the jumper cables. Once the engine starts, I remove the jumper cables and fold the seat back down. Regardless of the position of the seat, the engine starts to surge (maybe miss was a poor choice of words). I then sit on the seat, put it in gear and go, all the time it continues to surge. Then when I engage the blades, the surging stops and it runs normally. When I stop, take it out of gear and disengage the blades, it starts to surge again. If I get off the seat, it will shut the engine down. That’s why I think the seat switch is ok. Any suggestions?
bertsmobile1
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Now you have explained your problems better it sound like a carburettor problem,
Up until reciently the seat switch was not in the cranking circuit so techs can start the mower & work on it.
Now days we need to fit dummy plugs to start a lot of them due to shaved monkeys with lower IQ's than the rest of the knuckle draggers posting rubbish on U tube convincing equally stupid people to follow their lead.
You need to clean out the idle passages in your carburettor.
To confirm this start the mower then get off and manually open the throttle by pushing on the governor arm SLOWLY.
IF the surging vanishes as the speed increases then the idle passage is blocked.
Up until reciently the seat switch was not in the cranking circuit so techs can start the mower & work on it.
Now days we need to fit dummy plugs to start a lot of them due to shaved monkeys with lower IQ's than the rest of the knuckle draggers posting rubbish on U tube convincing equally stupid people to follow their lead.
You need to clean out the idle passages in your carburettor.
To confirm this start the mower then get off and manually open the throttle by pushing on the governor arm SLOWLY.
IF the surging vanishes as the speed increases then the idle passage is blocked.
bertsmobile1
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Yes.
At low idle there is no load on the engine so you are runningon the idle jet
When you engage the blades you put a load on the engine so the throttle plate opens up and you suck fuel through the main jet.
So you were asked to do the same thing as tuning the blades on would do, open up the throttle ( slowly )
So please do as asked and post the results
At low idle there is no load on the engine so you are runningon the idle jet
When you engage the blades you put a load on the engine so the throttle plate opens up and you suck fuel through the main jet.
So you were asked to do the same thing as tuning the blades on would do, open up the throttle ( slowly )
So please do as asked and post the results
Ok. Just when you would think things couldn’t get any more weird, they do. Started the mower, expecting it to start surging right away. It didn’t. Let it run for a few minutes and it ran fine. Drove it around a little and still no surging. Finally I engaged the blades and made a couple passes around the yard. Never surged at all. Yesterday it started surging as soon as it started and only stopped when I engaged the blades. It even surged when driving around without the blades engaged. I don’t know if that tells you anything but wouldn’t just driving around put a load on the engine also? Will try it one more time later tonight and then give it the real test probably early next week. Will report back.
bertsmobile1
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Yes it tells me you have a lot of gunk in the carb that needs to be cleaned out.
And by cleaned I mean pulled apart
And by cleaned I mean pulled apart
Well this is year #13 that I have had this mower after buying it used. When I mow for the last time in the fall, I add
Stabil and then run the tank dry. Also always replace the fuel filter in the spring. It has always stared right up for me and run well in the past. Will see how it runs next week. Fingers crossed.