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Weed Eater 24 cc - Won't Start

#1

T

tspencer1

Ran last year but now won't start. Is getting spark. I checked the gas lines/tank and am pretty sure I found the issue. Pls. Se attached pics. It appears that the inside of the gas tank is missing the fuel line that runs down to the bottom of the tank. In the pic with the primer, it is the top line. Am I correct?

Thx,

TimIMG_0940.jpgIMG_0944.jpg

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#2

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

One line only goes to the bottom of the tank. The other only goes into the tank and has a little check valve on it.can you see 1 line in the bottom with a filter on it?


#3

T

tspencer1

RDA.Lawns said:
One line only goes to the bottom of the tank. The other only goes into the tank and has a little check valve on it.can you see 1 line in the bottom with a filter on it?
Click to expand...

No - no other lines visible.


#4

T

Telesis

That smaller diameter line is the fuel "pickup" line. When you took your gas cap off, you should see (and hear when you shake) what looks like an aquarium air stone connected to that line. What happens, primarily due to the ethanol in our gas, is the fuel line hardens up and breaks off. That typically happens right at the air stone(which is really a filter and weight all in one!) or it happens near where it exits the fuel tank. You need this part as that is how the fuel line will always be "in the gas" because the weight keeps it at the bottom no matter how the unit is positioned.

If you've lost the filter, no big deal. You can usually pick them up at auto parts stores or at a Home Depot or Sears. You need to make sure you get the same diameter fuel line so it seals properly where it enters the tank. You may or may not have to go to a mower place(or online) for it. Too small and it will leak there as you move the unit. Too big and you can't get it through the hole.

Good luck!


#5

T

tspencer1

Thanks. The small tube and weight are gone. Don't know how. Ordered a new tank, lines and cap for $10. Hopefully does the trick.


#6

primerbulb120

primerbulb120

Telesis said:
That smaller diameter line is the fuel "pickup" line. When you took your gas cap off, you should see (and hear when you shake) what looks like an aquarium air stone connected to that line. What happens, primarily due to the ethanol in our gas, is the fuel line hardens up and breaks off. That typically happens right at the air stone(which is really a filter and weight all in one!) or it happens near where it exits the fuel tank. You need this part as that is how the fuel line will always be "in the gas" because the weight keeps it at the bottom no matter how the unit is positioned.

If you've lost the filter, no big deal. You can usually pick them up at auto parts stores or at a Home Depot or Sears. You need to make sure you get the same diameter fuel line so it seals properly where it enters the tank. You may or may not have to go to a mower place(or online) for it. Too small and it will leak there as you move the unit. Too big and you can't get it through the hole.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Could you explain why the smaller line is the pickup line? In my experience, the larger line is the pickup line and the smaller one is the return line. The reason being that the pickup line needs to be sturdier so it doesn't collapse from fuel pump suction. The smaller line is not subject to suction and therefore does not need to be as sturdy.


#7

T

Telesis

That is a great question for which I don't have an answer, at least from an equipment or carb manufacturer. Having said that, as an engineer my guess is the following. The pressure created when you push the purge bulb can and probably is greater than the vacuum created by the expanding bulb. Having a larger exhaust line from the bulb to the tank may minimize the chance of damage to the check valve that is closed when you press it(bigger line, lower max pressure). That pressure goes up even more when the air is purged and the bulb is full of fuel. No telling how 'hard' a customer will push the bulb.

The vacuum is in essence 'controlled' by the bulb expansion. I don't believe it's anywhere near a level to collapse the fuel line, even if the filter was completely plugged. What I've observed with a plugged fuel filter is the purge bulb doesn't expand or does so very slowly.

I realize it is equipment mfg dependent but it seems that most of the Poulan/Weedeater/Craftsman gear I see use this setup with their Walbro carbs(i.e. small inlet line to filter, larger exit line into tank to a connector). Clearly no absolutes though!


#8

primerbulb120

primerbulb120

Telesis said:
That is a great question for which I don't have an answer, at least from an equipment or carb manufacturer. Having said that, as an engineer my guess is the following. The pressure created when you push the purge bulb can and probably is greater than the vacuum created by the expanding bulb. Having a larger exhaust line from the bulb to the tank may minimize the chance of damage to the check valve that is closed when you press it(bigger line, lower max pressure). That pressure goes up even more when the air is purged and the bulb is full of fuel. No telling how 'hard' a customer will push the bulb.

The vacuum is in essence 'controlled' by the bulb expansion. I don't believe it's anywhere near a level to collapse the fuel line, even if the filter was completely plugged. What I've observed with a plugged fuel filter is the purge bulb doesn't expand or does so very slowly.

I realize it is equipment mfg dependent but it seems that most of the Poulan/Weedeater/Craftsman gear I see use this setup with their Walbro carbs(i.e. small inlet line to filter, larger exit line into tank to a connector). Clearly no absolutes though!
Click to expand...

Primer bulb isn't enough to collapse the thin fuel line, but the fuel pump suction is. It happens most often when the fuel line has aged a little and grown softer from exposure to gas.


#9

T

Telesis

That's certainly a new one for me. My experience has been just the opposite. The lines I've repaired have always gotten hard and brittle leading to the breakage(normally in the tank as one would expect due to the movement of the pickup line in normal use). I've never had a one that softened due to fuel exposure and caused a problem.

What I have seen fuel exposure soften and turn literally to mush(due to ethanol), is the fuel tank rubber grommet used on an Echo SRM weed whacker or a Mantis tiller. (for those who are not familiar, those fuel lines enter the tank through holes in a rubber grommet and the grommet is pressed into a larger hole in the tank)

FWIW....

Let us know how the new lines work out. FYI, there are plenty of YouTube videos on replacing the lines if you are not sure how.


#10

I

ILENGINE

primerbulb120 said:
Could you explain why the smaller line is the pickup line? In my experience, the larger line is the pickup line and the smaller one is the return line. The reason being that the pickup line needs to be sturdier so it doesn't collapse from fuel pump suction. The smaller line is not subject to suction and therefore does not need to be as sturdy.
Click to expand...

Poulan has always used the smaller line for the fuel pickup on their trimmers, and chainsaws. Reason unknown


#11

T

tspencer1

So of course I ordered the wrong part. I could not identify the model number so I guessed. The plate is attached has a "family" and serial number. Any ideas? Also posting a photo of the gas tank.

Thanks all,

TimIMG_0980.jpgIMG_0979.jpg


#12

B

bertsmobile1

Just replace the fuel lines.
You can buy them as a kit or buy some lengths of Tygon fuel line & a filter.
They are not easy to get into the tank because the holes are smaller to make a pressure tight seal ( or it will leak ).
Slip a drill bit inside the fuel line to help push it in or some trimmer line.


#13

primerbulb120

primerbulb120

bertsmobile1 said:
Just replace the fuel lines.
You can buy them as a kit or buy some lengths of Tygon fuel line & a filter.
They are not easy to get into the tank because the holes are smaller to make a pressure tight seal ( or it will leak ).
Slip a drill bit inside the fuel line to help push it in or some trimmer line.
Click to expand...

1. Insert a length of metal wire into the fuel line hole and feed it out through the fuel cap opening.
2. Cut the end of the fuel line to a taper with scissors.
3. Punch the wire through the tapered end and bend a hook so it will stay on. Sort of like baiting a fishing hook.
4. Pull the wire and the end of the taper through the fuel line hole.
5. Once the end of the taper is through, use pliers to pull the rest through.
6. Once you have the line where you want it, you can cut the taper off.


#14

T

tspencer1

Bert and Primer - brilliant! Thank you both!


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