StarTech
Lawn Royalty
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- Feb 19, 2020
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If you got the engine and part numbers I would like to give my resources a try. So try I have always found the parts needed except for gas tank filter.
Last edited:
weak spark
- Thread starter Monty72
- Start date
Corrosion has zero to do with magnetism. Just wasting your time. I still knock the rust off when I can admittedly.
shurguywutt
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 17, 2013
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Its still best practice before gapping
General comment: I would like to say thank you and congratulate all the Techs on this forum for the free exchange of quality information and professional opinions you offer. I've been lurking on this site for about 8 years and always look forward to my Saturday email with the hot weekly topics. I'm just a diy'er in small engines with some auto and large diesel experience and appreciate the years and decades of knowledge you share. Thanks again and thanks for freely helping so many folks.
Alan46
Active Member
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- May 12, 2023
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But
corrsion does affect gap when setting air gap, granted not alot but still.
Here is some info on lct. If the links don't work get back to me and I'll try again.
lctusa.com
Select
Home - Liquid Combustion Technology, LLC
lctusa.com
Select
- CPC Part Numbers
- HOP Part Numbers
- Ariens Part Numbers
Getting zapped through the boot says that spark may be better than you thought, but could also be ‘leaking’ to ground if the plug wire is chafed somewhere. That’s not likely with a new coil and wire assembly though unless you were less than gentle with installing it. It also says the plug may be going bad. Most newer ignition systems use resistor type spark plugs. As they go bad, the resistance goes up and the spark degrades.
You said you already replaced the coil. How did you set the gap between the coil and flywheel? Typically, using any metal feeler gauge leaves it poorly positioned. The best/easiest method I learned about 50 years ago was to fold a sheet of notebook paper in half and let the coil slide against that with the magnet pointed at the coil. As this is also the top of the compression stroke, I find it easier to pull the spark plug to set the coil gap. Also make sure (as someone else mentioned) that the key is not sheared. If the key slots in the crank and flywheel aren’t perfectly aligned, chances are it’s sheared. This affects timing more than spark quality, but you’re already in a situation to check it. Take the key out and check it with a magnifying glass for any sign that the flywheel has slipped. Or just replace it since it’s a cheap part and cheap insurance that the flywheel goes back on right. Make sure to fully torque the flywheel nut before checking coil gap. If gapped right, you should be able to turn the engine by hand (with the plug out) to check the spark function, but using the pull cord or starter will give better results. With the plug out, hold the spark plug against the block or frame (unpainted spot) and give it a spin. You can also see if the plug is working properly. Just be careful with this test. If the ignition is working properly, it will rattle your teeth. I typically use something to hold the plug with. There are also spark testers available if you want to get one.
Doing this stuff with the plug out also makes sure you stay on the same number system as the rest of us.