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I have a Ariens snowblower, model PW6HK17750. It won't start, it floods so bad gas comes out the exhaust. I have replaced the carb, and the coil, checked the fly wheel key, the valve adjustment, is there anything I missed. Trying to find parts for a LCD engine seams to be a little challenging. Any help would be appreciated.

Have you checked the oil to make sure the crankcase isn't full of gas if the carb is flooding that bad. Also LCT is part of Lauson/Tecumseh. So parts are basically Tecumseh parts, but Ariens and Husqvarna use LCT engines but claim they are an Ariens or Husqvarna engine and parts maybe only available from them for those engines.

ILENGINE said:

Have you checked the oil to make sure the crankcase isn't full of gas if the carb is flooding that bad. Also LCT is part of Lauson/Tecumseh. So parts are basically Tecumseh parts, but Ariens and Husqvarna use LCT engines but claim they are an Ariens or Husqvarna engine and parts maybe only available from them for those engines.

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LCT=Liquid Combustion Technology. Says it is U.S. owned and operated business. I would think parts availability is somewhat limited.

You state weak spark in heading, and say fuel is coming out of the muffler. You have replaced ignition coil and carburetor and apparently no improvement?
Did you have good strong spark with original ignition coil? What type of carburetor is original (brand)? Try pinching off fuel line and starting/running engine.

Tiger Small Engine said:

LCT=Liquid Combustion Technology. Says it is U.S. owned and operated business. I would think parts availability is somewhat limited.

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LCT kind of falls under the same type of agreement that Kawasaki and JD have with their engines when it comes to Husqvarna and Ariens. You can find part numbers under the LCT diagrams, but in some cases trying to order them has a note attached to see Husqvarna or see Ariens.

LCT warranty and parts distribution is through CPC Certified Parts Corporation. Which manages Lauson Power Products which is the Tecumseh dealer network.

All check the oil later today.

Tiger Small Engine said:

LCT=Liquid Combustion Technology. Says it is U.S. owned and operated business. I would think parts availability is somewhat limited.

You state weak spark in heading, and say fuel is coming out of the muffler. You have replaced ignition coil and carburetor and apparently no improvement?
Did you have good strong spark with original ignition coil? What type of carburetor is original (brand)? Try pinching off fuel line and starting/running engine.

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It's still a weak spark. I was touching the spark plug boot when I was testing the new coil and got zapped, it was more like static electric shock. The carb is original.

Check the magnets for corrosion and clean them off. Check the coil gap between the flywheel and the magnets. Check spark plug gaps. Make sure all is in spec.

shurguywutt said:

Check the magnets for corrosion and clean them off. Check the coil gap between the flywheel and the magnets. Check spark plug gaps. Make sure all is in spec.

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Every thing is checked off. Still weak spark, and no start.

Try this remove the carburetor and crank multiple times. Now every so often check the plug and make sure it is not shorted out by raw fuel. It should start and run a few seconds. If it does then you have carb problems. Also you didnt if tried a known good spark plug, they do fail and show outside the compression zone but fail with under compression load.

For the engine it seems parts are already available once you cross that engine to Husqvarna. But most of the parts are cheaper from Tecumseh and Lauson. Just got to get the part number crossed over to one of these OEM sources. I see no reason to pay Ariens and Husqvarna jacked up prices on those parts. You do however have to use the full set numbers you imaged to find the right parts.

It like JD hiding the Kawasaki part numbers where there is a will there is a way getting Kawasaki part numbers for those JD mounted engines. So I just buy the Kawasaki parts most times. It is the same with LCT engines.

StarTech said:

It like JD hiding the Kawasaki part numbers where there is a will there is a way getting Kawasaki part numbers for those JD mounted engines. So I just buy the Kawasaki parts most times. It is the same with LCT engines.

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I have come across a couple cases while working on LCT on Husqvarna were the authorized LCT distributor can't sell the part to an authorized LCT dealer, and have to purchase from Husqvarna only.

ILENGINE said:

I have come across a couple cases while working on LCT on Husqvarna were the authorized LCT distributor can't sell the part to an authorized LCT dealer, and have to purchase from Husqvarna only.

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If you got the engine and part numbers I would like to give my resources a try. So try I have always found the parts needed except for gas tank filter.

shurguywutt said:

Check the magnets for corrosion and clean them off.

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Corrosion has zero to do with magnetism. Just wasting your time. I still knock the rust off when I can admittedly.

slomo said:

Corrosion has zero to do with magnetism. Just wasting your time. I still knock the rust off when I can admittedly.

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Its still best practice before gapping

partially sheared key, if you got zapped the fire is there, different plug maybe and not an R(resistor) one. Try J8C

Monty72 said:

I have a Ariens snowblower, model PW6HK17750. It won't start, it floods so bad gas comes out the exhaust. I have replaced the carb, and the coil, checked the fly wheel key, the valve adjustment, is there anything I missed. Trying to find parts for a LCD engine seams to be a little challenging. Any help would be appreciated.

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Try partstree. https://www.partstree.com/models/08...uo7bS-3mBvawa00g2NNCHUC080T5kspxoC7F0QAvD_BwE

General comment: I would like to say thank you and congratulate all the Techs on this forum for the free exchange of quality information and professional opinions you offer. I've been lurking on this site for about 8 years and always look forward to my Saturday email with the hot weekly topics. I'm just a diy'er in small engines with some auto and large diesel experience and appreciate the years and decades of knowledge you share. Thanks again and thanks for freely helping so many folks.

Scott31 said:

General comment: I would like to say thank you and congratulate all the Techs on this forum for the free exchange of quality information and professional opinions you offer. I've been lurking on this site for about 8 years and always look forward to my Saturday email with the hot weekly topics. I'm just a diy'er in small engines with some auto and large diesel experience and appreciate the years and decades of knowledge you share. Thanks again and thanks for freely helping so many folks.

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What Scott31: said, you people are the best!!

But

shurguywutt said:

Its still best practice before gapping

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corrsion does affect gap when setting air gap, granted not alot but still.

Here is some info on lct. If the links don't work get back to me and I'll try again.



Select

• CPC Part Numbers
• HOP Part Numbers
• Ariens Part Numbers

Monty72 said:

It's still a weak spark. I was touching the spark plug boot when I was testing the new coil and got zapped, it was more like static electric shock. The carb is original.

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Getting zapped through the boot says that spark may be better than you thought, but could also be ‘leaking’ to ground if the plug wire is chafed somewhere. That’s not likely with a new coil and wire assembly though unless you were less than gentle with installing it. It also says the plug may be going bad. Most newer ignition systems use resistor type spark plugs. As they go bad, the resistance goes up and the spark degrades.

You said you already replaced the coil. How did you set the gap between the coil and flywheel? Typically, using any metal feeler gauge leaves it poorly positioned. The best/easiest method I learned about 50 years ago was to fold a sheet of notebook paper in half and let the coil slide against that with the magnet pointed at the coil. As this is also the top of the compression stroke, I find it easier to pull the spark plug to set the coil gap. Also make sure (as someone else mentioned) that the key is not sheared. If the key slots in the crank and flywheel aren’t perfectly aligned, chances are it’s sheared. This affects timing more than spark quality, but you’re already in a situation to check it. Take the key out and check it with a magnifying glass for any sign that the flywheel has slipped. Or just replace it since it’s a cheap part and cheap insurance that the flywheel goes back on right. Make sure to fully torque the flywheel nut before checking coil gap. If gapped right, you should be able to turn the engine by hand (with the plug out) to check the spark function, but using the pull cord or starter will give better results. With the plug out, hold the spark plug against the block or frame (unpainted spot) and give it a spin. You can also see if the plug is working properly. Just be careful with this test. If the ignition is working properly, it will rattle your teeth. I typically use something to hold the plug with. There are also spark testers available if you want to get one.

Doing this stuff with the plug out also makes sure you stay on the same number system as the rest of us.