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Victa Vantage VCS464 148cc 550 series 4 stroke lawn mower High Crazy RPM Issue. Briggs and Stratton Engine

#1

T

twilight79

A65E6D6A-6007-43E5-9AF4-C8CDD973C46F.jpeg
42A83C86-1368-421E-A225-24975176C31F.jpegEFBC0A90-A935-4ADF-B94B-F4F56B3C9863.jpegA65E6D6A-6007-43E5-9AF4-C8CDD973C46F.jpeg0B9EE198-4261-43F2-B0DF-CE1986A043FB.jpeg42A83C86-1368-421E-A225-24975176C31F.jpegEFBC0A90-A935-4ADF-B94B-F4F56B3C9863.jpegA65E6D6A-6007-43E5-9AF4-C8CDD973C46F.jpeg0B9EE198-4261-43F2-B0DF-CE1986A043FB.jpeg42A83C86-1368-421E-A225-24975176C31F.jpeg


#2

R

Rivets

And what’s your problem? If you post back include the engine numbers located on the shroud above the spark plug.


#3

B

bertsmobile1

Did you loosen the tank mounting bolt yourself before you took the photo, or have you been mowing with a loose tank for so long that the governor rod has worn thin & broken. ?


#4

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Did you loosen the tank mounting bolt yourself before you took the photo, or have you been mowing with a loose tank for so long that the governor rod has worn thin & broken. ?
Or the wobbling carb has cracked the plastic intake manifold and is now sucking air and bypassing the throttle system.


#5

R

Rivets

Or the throttle cable running under the air filter housing is rubbing on the linkage or throttle?


#6

tom3

tom3

Bottom line, the governor is not pulling the throttle back to operating speed.


#7

T

twilight79

Hey guys

i am so sorry I just realised everything I typed and described about my issue did not save and only the images and my title did.

I am so sorry. Anyways let me describe the issue now.

‘’I took off the carbureator to give it a good clean and changed the diaphragm aswell. Everything is sealed up fine and put back together.

‘the mower ran perfect the next two times till two days ago when I get a rattling tin sound coming from the engine or the mower. the revs are just insanely high and I cannot even move the throttle a little bit because the sound now is deafenin. It has never been this loud.

‘’also the mower shakes and vibrates badly when using it so I tried to change the plastic white piece to enable for slower revs. The slower revs are very faint and the mower almost grinds to a hault so I have to keep increasing the throttle ever so lightly so it doesn’t go crazy.

do you think replacing the governor spring might fix the issue or is it a lot more serious. I am happy to post a video tomorrow by starting the mower so you could tell better?

I will post the engine number shortly. Long story short.... crazy revs, loud sound, shaking, vibrating mower.


#8

T

twilight79

Here are some more images I just took out. I’ll post a video tomorrow. Thanks again

52EDA169-3FA8-419C-8882-F988D3735437.jpegE1CDFEA9-0917-432C-8686-4305181FA3E5.jpeg1958323C-D2CE-4348-B906-006DF09000E1.jpeg17294885-AB9A-4B46-9A3A-ED2DEEDFE837.jpeg


#9

T

twilight79

Bottom line, the governor is not pulling the throttle back to operating speed.
Thanks for your update. So if I change the governor spring, is it more likely to be fixed . I also ordered a new throttle just in case it is the throttle cable.
thx


#10

T

twilight79

Did you loosen the tank mounting bolt yourself before you took the photo, or have you been mowing with a loose tank for so long that the governor rod has worn thin & broken. ?
Hey mate. Haven’t been mowing with a loose tank. that picture was taken before I took off the tank for a clean. It is secured now and tight. Thanks


#11

T

twilight79

And what’s your problem? If you post back include the engine numbers located on the shroud above the spark plug.
Apologies as mentioned before everything I typed did not save hence just a post with pictures.

engine details -

Briggs and stratton
1 602 0146 H1 11092155

SEPT 2011

also posted a picture of the engine details in my second post.

‘’thanks for helping.


#12

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Thanks for your update. So if I change the governor spring, is it more likely to be fixed . I also ordered a new throttle just in case it is the throttle cable.
thx
Probably Not, the governor (gear) pulls the throttle back, the governor spring opens the throttle, when the governor goes out, its just the spring and the throttle goes wide open.
i would try adjusting the governor first, and if that doesn't fix it, most likely the gear is toast inside the engine.


#13

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Couldn't find one specific to your engine, as this type used air vane and mechanical governor.


#14

B

bertsmobile1

Always a problem working from text & images when the exact sequence of things is not stated.
And I have seen Victas come in with the thank fallen 1/2 off. 2 out of the 3 mounting bolts missing & the customers swear blind it has run perfectly till last whenever.
Pulling the mwer apart. I find the manifold cracked or ripped right out ( as suggested by Ilengine previously) .

You problem is fairly well terminal .
If you take the top cover off the engine you will find that rod goes all the way back to the end of the engine where it is clamped onto a shaft that pokes out of the side of the crank case.
On the other end of that shaft is the governor
The governor is a bob weight device that SLOWS the engine down.
So either the governor arm is loose on the governor shaft Easy adjustment or the governor has self destructed inside the engine .
They are not expensive and it is a fairly easy fix, but you hae to pull the engine off the frame to do it and of course you have to hope B & S Aust actually have stocks of governors on hand.

So pull the housing off the engine.
Post the numbers stamped into the end of it above the spark plug
And check the governor arm & shaft


#15

T

twilight79

Awesome. Thanks guys for the tips. Report back shortly findings.

‘’here are 2 videos to help if you would like to view them. Not sure if it will give you more better understanding of my problem.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Z1LX-f1uOx8fmjE3ioTbyAzFZ03iZL4y?usp=sharing


#16

T

twilight79

The governor looks ok on the outside?
See pictures attached
If you view the videos aswell you can see how crazy the mower is rattling.

Thanks

20201001_161915.jpg20201001_161900.jpg20201001_161853.jpg20201001_161849.jpg20201001_160346.jpg


#17

B

bertsmobile1

Apologies as mentioned before everything I typed did not save hence just a post with pictures.

engine details -

Briggs and stratton
1 602 0146 H1 11092155

SEPT 2011

also posted a picture of the engine details in my second post.

‘’thanks for helping.

The model number you have posted above is wrong
A 148cc engine should have a number along the lines of 09????-0416-H1
The first 2 numbers are the capacity in Cu inches 148 cc = 9 Cu inch .
If it is a 2011 model then the 3rd character should be a letter L ? J ? .

AFAIK the governor arm should have a clamp bolt holding it to he shaft very tight
There is none in your photo
So unless you took it off then it has fallen off and the governor is not slowing down the engine as it is supposed to do.


#18

T

twilight79

The model number you have posted above is wrong
A 148cc engine should have a number along the lines of 09????-0416-H1
The first 2 numbers are the capacity in Cu inches 148 cc = 9 Cu inch .
If it is a 2011 model then the 3rd character should be a letter L ? J ? .

AFAIK the governor arm should have a clamp bolt holding it to he shaft very tight
There is none in your photo
So unless you took it off then it has fallen off and the governor is not slowing down the engine as it is supposed to do.
Hey mate
yes I took off the bolt and screw but it is on now. That is defn the engine number. I am in Australia so not sure if that helps lol.

here is a picture of the engine #
89F6030B-381C-4E01-A95A-19A3E263BD9D.jpeg


#19

B

bertsmobile1

SO am I and the number is wrong
IT is stamped into the steel blower housing directly above the spark plug
It lloks like B & S are having a little exageration
The number is 10T602-0146-H1
Although a 10 should signify a 165cc engine not a 148 but that is neither here nor there unless we wanted to post your parts diagram , or check if your governot arm was correct.
In any case, adjust the governor shaft & arm as per the video Scrubbie linked to.
If the engine still races then the governor is broken iternally and the engine will need to be pulled apart.

This is not a difficult job but a time consuming one which makes it uneconomic unless you do it yourself
The governor , part number 697799 is around $ 30 . the gasket & seal kit # 590777 is around $ 20
And if it was me I would replace the con rod as well # 699654 Around $ 50

This is because running at those sorts of speeds damages the rod internally so it is highly likely to fly apart in use
So you are up for pretty close to $ 100

But before you spend any money have a very close look at the deck around the left hand handle bar bracket.
This deck s prone to cracking around the mounting and rusting through in the top left corner behind the handle bar mounting .
No use spending good money repairing the engine if the body is about to fall apart.
Also stand the mower on the grass catcher flap , remove the spark plug and rotate the engine slowly looking hard at the blade plate mounting bolt.
If it does not spin true then the crankshaft is bent.
In theory this should never happen as the blades should swing back if you run over something very hard , but those vibrations ( not the speed ) can also signify a bent crank shaft.


#20

T

twilight79

SO am I and the number is wrong
IT is stamped into the steel blower housing directly above the spark plug
It lloks like B & S are having a little exageration
The number is 10T602-0146-H1
Although a 10 should signify a 165cc engine not a 148 but that is neither here nor there unless we wanted to post your parts diagram , or check if your governot arm was correct.
In any case, adjust the governor shaft & arm as per the video Scrubbie linked to.
If the engine still races then the governor is broken iternally and the engine will need to be pulled apart.

This is not a difficult job but a time consuming one which makes it uneconomic unless you do it yourself
The governor , part number 697799 is around $ 30 . the gasket & seal kit # 590777 is around $ 20
And if it was me I would replace the con rod as well # 699654 Around $ 50

This is because running at those sorts of speeds damages the rod internally so it is highly likely to fly apart in use
So you are up for pretty close to $ 100

But before you spend any money have a very close look at the deck around the left hand handle bar bracket.
This deck s prone to cracking around the mounting and rusting through in the top left corner behind the handle bar mounting .
No use spending good money repairing the engine if the body is about to fall apart.
Also stand the mower on the grass catcher flap , remove the spark plug and rotate the engine slowly looking hard at the blade plate mounting bolt.
If it does not spin true then the crankshaft is bent.
In theory this should never happen as the blades should swing back if you run over something very hard , but those vibrations ( not the speed ) can also signify a bent crank shaft.
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation and solution. I will do the needful next week when I get some time off. I greatly appreciate your advice and guidance.

God bless.


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