VICTA Mustang 2stroke, unknown model/series seeking repair maual

[Widget]

Hey Guys,

picked up a VICTA Mustang 2stroke mower but am having trouble finding a repair manual (and possibly model) of it.

The only details I've come across are;

However, I couldnt find any results on google for this model...



Any information would be super

Thanks,

 

[bertsmobile1]

Nice find.
That is a VC Mustang from the late 70's early 80's.
It is powered by the VC 160cc engine which immediately predates the current but now no longer made Power Torque.
It is the last model with a detachable cylinder.
Like all Victas way too easy to work on & requireing almost no maintenance.

There is no specific manual for your mower.
Just a Scientific Publications ( now Gregory's ) Victa all Models 1956 to 1984.
They turn up regularly on evilbay with prices from $ 10 to $ 70 ( rare vintage mower manual :laughing
Most Op-Shops, Salvos, Vinnies etc will have a copy or two for around $ 2 to $ 5.
The other Scientific Publications "Small Engine Repairs" will have some useful information but its Victa section is principally Power Torque.

OTOH if you have a specific problem, post it & I should be able to walk you through it as I have been repairing these for about 40 years as a side line & 2 years now full time.
Every part you might need is available but sadly a bigger range of aftermarket ones than original.

 

[Widget]

Hi Bert, thanks for the reply

I might take you up on that offer actually.. seems the mower is in a little worse state than I expected.

Victa Mower Slideshow by Widget1983 | Photobucket

Completely caked in thick mud/dirty.. seems like it may have been buried or something :confused3: cleaning off the dirt/mud, seems like it might come out fairly clean.

Problem though, seems there was water or something in the fuel/engine (or bad old oil) I ended up removing the engine and started taking it apart so I can assess the parts more easily and to clean.

So far, im in need of replacing the gaskets on the engine block, any idea on where to source these? Are they expensive?

Thanks again,

 

[bertsmobile1]

It is very common unfortunately to find the entire under cowel area to be solid with a caked ( baked ) on clay formed from dust and fuel vapours & exhaust oil.

Because of the closed induction system it is almost impossible for dirt & water to get into the engine unless the snorkel is split or the mower has been physically under water. The plastic G3 carby does not condense water overnight and the rather high neck on the fuel cap prevents water entering via the fuel tank.

It is just Joe public never takes the cowel off to clean the mower.

Top & bottom bearings, con rods, pistons, rings , coils, ignition modules, cut out switches , switch boots & gaskets ( only 2 of them ) are all available but go to a local mower repair shop not a mower sales room.
If you have troubles I can supply all of them at good prices or you can buy reasonable priced rebuild / service kits on evilbay but avoid all the idiots flogging off clear PVC tubing it has to be UV resistant black tube and is the same tube for the vacuum governor & decompressor and fuel line
The only things that are hard to come by are the automatic decompressor rebuild kits but you can substitute the modern non servicable decompressor for your old one so there is no problem.
The other item is the centre ( brown wire ) terminal on the cut out switch these were unique to Victa and made by Utilux at Kingsgrove.
Utilux closed down when the auto industry went to Chineee wiring looms and supplies of the uique terminal have run out. I can however get the entire ignition loom if yours is beyond reuse.

The usual go with old victas is to pull off the muffler & look at the bore .
If it is scored or groved then it goes in the spares bin.
I pay $60 to $ 80 for a rebore + piston , rings & gaskets which when added to the time I spend renovating them and other parts makes it uneconomic or rather makes the finished mower unsaleable.

 

[Widget]

Hi Bert, thanks for the reply

Had a look at the piston, does look scratched/grooved;



At this stage, just trying to strip it down to thoroughly clean (& learn a lil at the same time). What's the chances of the mower still being operational with a piston in this state?

Also, any idea on how to separate these 2x sections of the engine..



I've unscrew the bolts and have managed to separate them, but something is preventing them from being removed. I took off the flywheel(?) not as I thought that might be it.. but no budge,



Thanks again, much appreciated

 

[bertsmobile1]

From the top.
1) That piston is now a paperweight, ashtray scrap metal.
2) because of the above you will need a rebore & bigger piston
3) the fan wheel pulls off from the top there is nothing holding it on apart from a tapper lock and some corrosion.
make up some penetrating solution by mixing acetone and ATF 50:50 ( do not store it in a plastic container ) warm the top and pour the penetrant in while still just too hot to hold comfortably allow to go stone cold, Repeat for a week or so. Support the fan wheel, put the nut back on the top of the crankshaft and give it some sharp note sharp not hard wacks with a dead blow hammer.
If you are considering a 2 or 3 jaw puller use a rattle gun to tighten down the puller and slip some heavy steel pieces under the jaws or you will deform the starter teeth cast into the sides. There is also a better than average chance of dishing the fan wheel.
The actual puller is a steel plate which bolts down into the 3 small holes & bear agains the crankshaft you can modify a steering wheel puller to do the job.
4) the blade boss needs to come off the shaft before you can pull the crank through the bearings and seperate the cases.
They are a right royal bitch to get off because they usually are rusted solid to the crank.
Start by mechanically cleaning all of the shaft below the boss to a shiny steel finish.
Get a tall glass jar ( coffee jars usually work ) so you can immerse all of the shaft & boss but not the alloy cases.
Fill jar with a rust removing solution like Marine Clean Rustsolve etc just make sure it only removes rust and does not "convert" rust.
Some use dilute hydrochloric acid, I never like the idea. Put it out in the sun so it gets nice & hot but remember to keep topping it up.
After a week or two take it out and give it a good heating with a torch.
usually they will drop right off as it is close parallel fit keyed onto the shaft so there is ( in theory ) nothing holding it on except rust.
You can also use a bearing separator & puller just be carefull because the long shaft is easily bent and once bent the whole thing is scrap metal.
Or you can modify the ends of a 3 jaw puller
Or you can spend $ 350 on the genuine Victa tool.

Should keep you out of the pub for a few weeks.

I'll have a ferret around & see if I can dig up a parts drawing that is useful and post it

 

[Widget]

Thanks Bert, much appreciated

 

[bertsmobile1]

This manual should do you well.
Victa Lawnmower Manual | eBay
Worth about $ 10 + postage.

They are not rare.
Victa had over 1000 agents and every agent had manuals
And this parts book will be good as it will have all 3 engine types in it.
Victa Factory Spare Parts Manual 1983 1984 Victa Products | eBay