Vari-drive information request

[jmelton86]

In case I wasn't previously clear, in this picture the center portion of the pulley system must easily move up and down with both belts removed or it will not operate as designed.

All other pulleys/ etc in the drivetrain are in good working order. This is the only thing that the problem could be however, I have not physically checked operation of this pulley. It's all that's left in the drive train though, so this has to be the culprit.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

However if the sliding flange is rusted solid in one position, the mower will still move , it just won't change speed, and their will be resistance to the speed control pedal.

Isn't that what I said when I wrote " will not operate as designed "

 

[jmelton86]

I'm guessing I will order parts 41-47 unless someone knows for sure.

I do appreciate the help from all of you.

 

[Rocky J]

My neighbors mower does pretty much the same thing twice a year, I remove the tin shiftier cover and squirt ATF back into the variable pulley and tap the center part that is intended to move up and down with the peddle position with a wood dowel from top and bottom and it comes free and it works fine again. Looks like when it is stuck down and the peddle is let up the front belt is loose enough to slip off.Been squirting it twice a year for three years and it keeps going. He never mentions it slipping from the ATF and it does not make the belt come apart.I think it gets sticky or gummy from mowing wet grass, looks like a car wash coming across the yard. It says Shift on the go MTD on it.I keep hoping it will blow up before a major repair, Vise grips on the fuel line for a shut off and o ring on throttle shaft because it sucks air around it, every switch is bypassed,uses a screw driver on solenoid to start, Air up the tires and top off the oil and put the wet side of the couch cushion down. Good old mowers if they would have stayed away from the plastic parts.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

My neighbors mower does pretty much the same thing twice a year, I remove the tin shiftier cover and squirt ATF back into the variable pulley and tap the center part that is intended to move up and down with the peddle position with a wood dowel from top and bottom and it comes free and it works fine again. Looks like when it is stuck down and the peddle is let up the front belt is loose enough to slip off.Been squirting it twice a year for three years and it keeps going. He never mentions it slipping from the ATF and it does not make the belt come apart.I think it gets sticky or gummy from mowing wet grass, looks like a car wash coming across the yard. It says Shift on the go MTD on it.I keep hoping it will blow up before a major repair, Vise grips on the fuel line for a shut off and o ring on throttle shaft because it sucks air around it, every switch is bypassed,uses a screw driver on solenoid to start, Air up the tires and top off the oil and put the wet side of the couch cushion down. Good old mowers if they would have stayed away from the plastic parts.

Have you considered changing professions and writing a lawn mower comic strip? You'd be good at it!!!!

And if the truth be known there are thousands of mowers operating just like yours.

 

[jmelton86]

My neighbors mower does pretty much the same thing twice a year, I remove the tin shiftier cover and squirt ATF back into the variable pulley and tap the center part that is intended to move up and down with the peddle position with a wood dowel from top and bottom and it comes free and it works fine again. Looks like when it is stuck down and the peddle is let up the front belt is loose enough to slip off.Been squirting it twice a year for three years and it keeps going. He never mentions it slipping from the ATF and it does not make the belt come apart.I think it gets sticky or gummy from mowing wet grass, looks like a car wash coming across the yard. It says Shift on the go MTD on it.I keep hoping it will blow up before a major repair, Vise grips on the fuel line for a shut off and o ring on throttle shaft because it sucks air around it, every switch is bypassed,uses a screw driver on solenoid to start, Air up the tires and top off the oil and put the wet side of the couch cushion down. Good old mowers if they would have stayed away from the plastic parts.

That is really good to know! I'd kinda like to just replace what I need to and be done with it to be honest. Everything else on the mower is in great condition (minus having to put air in the front tires each cut and the parking brake that doesn't work -which both are not big deals).

Looking at the diagram I attached on the first post, what would you order?

 

[Boobala]

Thank for the link but, all I have to do is go to searspartsdirect.com and type in my model number.

THESE are NOT parts manuals... They're FACTORY service manuals , showing very good pics and detail of these mowers
take a look .... at the deck sections showing spring locations .
Also shows the vari-drive components .

 

[jmelton86]

THESE are NOT parts manuals... They're FACTORY service manuals , showing very good pics and detail of these mowers
take a look .... at the deck sections showing spring locations .
Also shows the vari-drive components .

They show one paragraph about the vari-drive pulley, including a part number for needle bearings -and they aren't very specific about which model the bearings are for.

Thanks but, I get more out of the parts break down than that haha

I'm pretty sure I know what I need; the pulley, pulley bearings, and may just order the bearing cup in case the bearings are seized into the old cup. I will be sure to update when I get them installed (which just might be next spring LoL).