V Twin Not accelerating, runs terrible

[Dpwill918]

I have A B&G V Twin model number 44P777 that I have just replaced the sump gasket. The motor ran fine before this repair but now it does not sound good (sounds like the choke is on) and when I move the governor off WOT the motor dies. I have removed motor and sump to double check the governor and reset the governor (at WOT turn clockwise and tighten).

Any thoughts?

 

[ILENGINE]

Have you checked to make sure the choke is actually opening. Have seen stranger things.

 

[Dpwill918]

The choke is opening.

When I was removing the sump to replace the gasket it looked as if the oil passage tube that runs from the oil pump through the race of the sump up to the crankshaft was installed too far. It went completely through the race and touched the crank. It was all marred and the sump near impossible to remove. I filed the high spots off of the crank but I still had to force the sump over the crank.

My question is if the crank is being held up could this cause my symptoms? Thinking I should tear down again and get the sump to just slide down the crankshaft by filing off the high spots of the scratches on the crankshaft,

 

[Scrubcadet10]

The choke is opening.

When I was removing the sump to replace the gasket it looked as if the oil passage tube that runs from the oil pump through the race of the sump up to the crankshaft was installed too far. It went completely through the race and touched the crank. It was all marred and the sump near impossible to remove. I filed the high spots off of the crank but I still had to force the sump over the crank.

My question is if the crank is being held up could this cause my symptoms? Thinking I should tear down again and get the sump to just slide down the crankshaft by filing off the high spots of the scratches on the crankshaft,

I would think if the starter can turn it over, the engine will be able to turn itself.

 

[Dpwill918]

Ok I finally got back to this. I have confirmed spark on both cylinders by removing spark plug to look for spark and with a spark indicator. Checked gap on plugs. Cleaned battery and ground connections. I have also checked valve clearance at 0.006. Fuel pump is working but I cannot even get it to fire on carb cleaner. Compression on both cylinders at 165 but it will just turn over but not start now but it seems to want to start

 

[Scrubcadet10]

did you remove the camshaft for any reason? made sure the timing dots were aligned on the crank and cam gears?

 

[Dpwill918]

I did not do anything to internals, just replaced the gasket and crank seal

 

[Richard320]

Look for air leaks. Maybe a breather tube left off? If you have gas and you have spark and you have compression, then the only thing keeoing it from going is gas not getting in to the spark and compression. That could be an air leak.

 

[Born2Mow]

If you have gas and you have spark and you have compression, then the only thing keeping it from going is gas not getting in to the spark and compression.

That's not entirely true. True, the first level of check IS gas, fire and compression.
The second level of check is to make sure each of those is occurring at the correct time. Ignition fire at the wrong time is just as harmful as fuel at the wrong time, as is compression at the wrong time. All those are possibilities.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I did not do anything to internals, just replaced the gasket and crank seal

If you did nothing to the internals, then the timing should still be spot on. Did you happen to check and see if the two dots lined up while you were in there? Didn't accidentally move the cam?
Are the plugs wet after you turn the engine over a few times?