I have a rtz 50 with 22 HP Briggs: it has a 4 amp alternator (new alternator and regulator). I want to upgrade to a 10 amp alternator and regulator and run the red wire from the regulator to the battery side of the solenoid. Does anyone have experience with something like this? I replaced the 4 amp alternator and regulator and it is charging the battery at about 13.8 volts until you engage the clutch, then there is a continual drain on the battery; when it draws down to about 11.5 the clutch quits working. Any opinions would be appreciated! The 4 amp is a dual circuit and the 10 amp is a dc. Thank you1
Upgrade Briggs alternator
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bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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You have nailed it except for one critical factor
The magnet size .
There are 2 sizes ( $ if you include Vanguards )
So when you see an alternator listed as 5-10 Amps that is 5 with the small magnets & 10 with the big magnets.
All stators are interchangable
The other thing to veriify is the carb solenoid is energised.
I ran a power wire direct to the solenoid one time & found the solenoid was not opening
If you go direct to the solenoid please put a fuse in the wire so if it shorts out the alternator does not continue to energise the wiring till they melt.
The magnet size .
There are 2 sizes ( $ if you include Vanguards )
So when you see an alternator listed as 5-10 Amps that is 5 with the small magnets & 10 with the big magnets.
All stators are interchangable
The other thing to veriify is the carb solenoid is energised.
I ran a power wire direct to the solenoid one time & found the solenoid was not opening
If you go direct to the solenoid please put a fuse in the wire so if it shorts out the alternator does not continue to energise the wiring till they melt.
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Here is a couple good questions. Has this setup being working fine in the past and just recently started giving problems? If so it may be that the electric clutch is partially shorted.
Or is this a new engine to ZTR transplant?
Or is this a new engine to ZTR transplant?
I bought the mower almost a year ago knowing that it needed some work. The trans. were good so I've been doing a little at a time. The engine is a transplant but the same engine number that came on the mower. I knew there was a problem because the owner had a jumper battery in the floor pan. I've replaced the camshaft, tappets, pushrods, starter, solenoid, carburetor, battery cables, hour meter, gaskets, filters, ect. It had bad gas in it when I got it bent a pushrod; that started the whole adventure. The engine runs very good and the mower cuts better than my new one. Thanks for the reply. Any suggestions?
Thank you very much. I try to always use a fuse.