Mad Mackie
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2011
- Threads
- 50
- Messages
- 1,851
Hi Troops,
Repowered Scag Tiger Cub was showing an oil leak on the left side under the starter. Cleaned it up and found that it was the drain valve that I had installed when I installed the new engine, my bad!!!! Removed the engine, removed the drain fitting and drained the oil. The engine still had the muffler installed so it set nicely on the crankshaft and the muffler. I ran a pipe tap into the hole to clean it. I think that there was some disruption in the thread that had caused the drain fitting to feel as if it was tight. Anyway, I deepened the hole slightly with a pipe tap with grease in the flutes to catch any aluminum chips from taping, cleaned it up, reinstalled the drain valve and reindexed it from the 3 o'clock to the 9 o'clock position where a drain hose can be connected away from the muffler.
I have an oil withdrawal system but I chose to reinstall the drain valve and not a pipe plug.
While I had the clutch off, I checked it with an Ohmmeter and it was 2.3-2.4 Ohms with two meters that have zero scale option. This clutch should read 2.8-3.2 Ohms!! I reinstalled the clutch, started the machine, did some mowing, but noticed a system voltage problem on the aftermarket monitor. Another voltage regulator had failed. I installed the regulator that had been on the old engine and did an ammeter check on the clutch. With the clutch fairly cool, the current draw was 6-7 amps and as it warmed up the amp draw decreased some but not much. This is out of spec and could be the reason for the regulator failures. Tomorrow I'll buy a new clutch, 510 hours on this original clutch. 45 hours on the new Briggs 30 HP Cyclonic engine, 2nd regulator, original regulator from old engine presently on the engine.:confused2:
Mad Mackie in CT
Repowered Scag Tiger Cub was showing an oil leak on the left side under the starter. Cleaned it up and found that it was the drain valve that I had installed when I installed the new engine, my bad!!!! Removed the engine, removed the drain fitting and drained the oil. The engine still had the muffler installed so it set nicely on the crankshaft and the muffler. I ran a pipe tap into the hole to clean it. I think that there was some disruption in the thread that had caused the drain fitting to feel as if it was tight. Anyway, I deepened the hole slightly with a pipe tap with grease in the flutes to catch any aluminum chips from taping, cleaned it up, reinstalled the drain valve and reindexed it from the 3 o'clock to the 9 o'clock position where a drain hose can be connected away from the muffler.
I have an oil withdrawal system but I chose to reinstall the drain valve and not a pipe plug.
While I had the clutch off, I checked it with an Ohmmeter and it was 2.3-2.4 Ohms with two meters that have zero scale option. This clutch should read 2.8-3.2 Ohms!! I reinstalled the clutch, started the machine, did some mowing, but noticed a system voltage problem on the aftermarket monitor. Another voltage regulator had failed. I installed the regulator that had been on the old engine and did an ammeter check on the clutch. With the clutch fairly cool, the current draw was 6-7 amps and as it warmed up the amp draw decreased some but not much. This is out of spec and could be the reason for the regulator failures. Tomorrow I'll buy a new clutch, 510 hours on this original clutch. 45 hours on the new Briggs 30 HP Cyclonic engine, 2nd regulator, original regulator from old engine presently on the engine.:confused2:
Mad Mackie in CT