Tuff Torq K62a bypass level oil leak

[arch252]

I just pulled the spare K62A I had. I was able to pick the two O rings off that shaft and I did not see any groove on the shaft that they seat in, that's what I was worried about. I was also afraid one of the O rings might sit in a groove in the case at the shaft opening, but that's not the case. It appears that I can replace the two O rings without removing the shaft, so I'm going to give that a try.

 

[BlazNT]

I think you should be able too.

 

[arch252]

Thanks again Blaz, looks like I'll need to drain the oil, the resovoir being up higher the oil keeps flowing up trough the shaft opening now that I've removed those old O rings. I don't know that I can seat new new O rings correctly with that oil pushing up through there, I'd feel better if it was clean and free of excess oil when I put the new O rings in. I'll get on it tomorrow. I sure wish there was a better seal for that shaft than just those two O rings

 

[Wisconsin05]

Thanks again Blaz, looks like I'll need to drain the oil, the resovoir being up higher the oil keeps flowing up trough the shaft opening now that I've removed those old O rings. I don't know that I can seat new new O rings correctly with that oil pushing up through there, I'd feel better if it was clean and free of excess oil when I put the new O rings in. I'll get on it tomorrow. I sure wish there was a better seal for that shaft than just those two O rings

Kind a long shot digging up this old thread but I have a LX280 mower and have this same issue...were you able to stop the leak by replacing the o rings from the outside? I woke up to a puddle of transmission oil on my garage floor yesterday and have pinpointed the leak oozing out the bypass lever.

 

[arch252]

No worries, I'm still on here all the time. Yes, that did fix my issue, as I recall I did not have to open the case to get to the o rings for the bypass valve. There is another lever on the other side, the brake arm I believe, and you do have to open the case to access that O ring if it ever goes bad. I've been there. Also, be sure to order OEM O rings, don't try to size them up out of an o ring kit, won't work. Been there too.

 

[Wisconsin05]

I appreciate the response. I was able to get it all pulled apart and picked the old o rings from the top. They werent obviously cracked or brittle or anything but I was able to get some replacements from the local dealer and swapped them out. Put everything back together and refilled with some fresh 5w-50. Purged the air out and ran for a couple minutes around the yard. No obvious leaking at this time. Mowing season is done for now up here so I guess I’ll see if I have any surprises in the spring.

Maybe I should run it for a little bit again next weekend just to give it another test. I’m really kind of perplexed how those o rings were leaking so bad and that the new ones seem to be working. I also noticed my drive belt is in rough shape so I’ll be taking everything apart anyways to replace that sometime this winter.

 

[7394]

I would definitely test it some more, while you don't need it to be used.

 

[arch252]

My O ring issue occurred because I had overworked the transmission, had too heavy a load on the back end. Too much pressure built up.

Drive belt is pretty easy, especially compared to the newer X series.

 

[Rohaas]

Thanks for this post. I was gifted a JD gt275 and it started leaking after I used the bypass lever a few times. I have new o-rings from JD and I'm hoping to pick them to avoid spilling the case. I noticed one o-ring is smaller than the other. Do they go in in a certain order? Small then large?

 

[arch252]

I don't remember them being different sizes so I'm not sure. I would think though that the smaller one would go in first.