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I have a LX279 with a Tuff Torq K62A hydrostatic. My in laws borrowed it and were hauling some wood in a basket on the back, I think it overworked the transmission and caused oil pressure to build up. Afterwards there was a significant oil leak from the top of the transmission where the bypass lever exits the case. The parts diagram shows "packing" instead of some type of seal.

I am assuming/hoping I only need to replace that packing. Before I remove the bypass rod/lever from the case, is there anything I need to be aware of? Does that rod simply lift straight up and out or is there anything special I will need to do?

I've had a K62A completely apart before (not this one) and I know there are several parts that must be in exactly the correct position.

I don't want to cause more problems that. I already have.

Anyone think the problem is something more than that packing?

I have already removed the floor pan with seat, gas tank and cooling fan to confirm the location of the leak.

Photos...

No offense meant, but you have a lot of crud built up on there & that creates more heat. Hopefully the fix is simple. I know I'd clean that unit up so it runs cooler.

The only crud is where the oil came out and all the dirt built up on. It was clean as a whistle before, and is still very clean elsewhere. You can't tell from the picture but all that crud is still moist and fresh. That didn't cause it to overheat, the oil pressure built up and forced oil out the bypass valve. The question now is can that bypass rod simply be pulled straight out to replace the packing.

I show 2 o rings in the assembly for the bypass valve.
24311240100 0-RING 1A P10A
What holds it in is a spring clip.
22242000100 RING,10
You have to crack the case to remove it. Looks very easy but you never know.

This is one of the best examples of "No good deed goes unpunished"

Parts diagram.
https://www.tufftorqservices.com/in...parent=K62A&parent99=K62&parent98=Hydrostatic

Thanks but for some reason I can't open the diagram on the link you posted. I'll post a link to the diagram on the Green site, it may be the same as what you posted. The parts I'm referring to are the lever (17), pin (16), packing (18) and shaft (19). The packing does look like 2 O rings. I'm having a heck of a time removing the pin (17) but I was hoping that when I do get it out the lever will remove from the shaft and then I cpuld access and replace the packing (16) without removing the shaft from the case, then replace the lever and pin.

Do you know for sure this won't work? Are you absolutely sure I have to split the case and remove the shaft? Hate to question you but if so this just went from a 2 hour job to a 2 day job.

John Deere - Parts Catalog
http://m.jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servle...alog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt#mw_pdp

Not sure if that link worked, here's a picture

Same diagram with different numbers. What you are calling packing are 2 o-rings per tuff torq. They make it so if you have packing now I would upgrade to the o-rings.

Thanks Blaz, how certain are you that I'll have to split the case?

I have a spare K62A that has one bad pump in it, I could always test it on that if you aren't 100% sure.

Ok so to pull the rod the o-rings go around you have to split the case. If you think you can pull them out from the top and replace them you will not have to split the case.

I just pulled the spare K62A I had. I was able to pick the two O rings off that shaft and I did not see any groove on the shaft that they seat in, that's what I was worried about. I was also afraid one of the O rings might sit in a groove in the case at the shaft opening, but that's not the case. It appears that I can replace the two O rings without removing the shaft, so I'm going to give that a try.

I think you should be able too.

Thanks again Blaz, looks like I'll need to drain the oil, the resovoir being up higher the oil keeps flowing up trough the shaft opening now that I've removed those old O rings. I don't know that I can seat new new O rings correctly with that oil pushing up through there, I'd feel better if it was clean and free of excess oil when I put the new O rings in. I'll get on it tomorrow. I sure wish there was a better seal for that shaft than just those two O rings

arch252 said:

Thanks again Blaz, looks like I'll need to drain the oil, the resovoir being up higher the oil keeps flowing up trough the shaft opening now that I've removed those old O rings. I don't know that I can seat new new O rings correctly with that oil pushing up through there, I'd feel better if it was clean and free of excess oil when I put the new O rings in. I'll get on it tomorrow. I sure wish there was a better seal for that shaft than just those two O rings

Click to expand...

Kind a long shot digging up this old thread but I have a LX280 mower and have this same issue...were you able to stop the leak by replacing the o rings from the outside? I woke up to a puddle of transmission oil on my garage floor yesterday and have pinpointed the leak oozing out the bypass lever.

No worries, I'm still on here all the time. Yes, that did fix my issue, as I recall I did not have to open the case to get to the o rings for the bypass valve. There is another lever on the other side, the brake arm I believe, and you do have to open the case to access that O ring if it ever goes bad. I've been there. Also, be sure to order OEM O rings, don't try to size them up out of an o ring kit, won't work. Been there too.

I appreciate the response. I was able to get it all pulled apart and picked the old o rings from the top. They werent obviously cracked or brittle or anything but I was able to get some replacements from the local dealer and swapped them out. Put everything back together and refilled with some fresh 5w-50. Purged the air out and ran for a couple minutes around the yard. No obvious leaking at this time. Mowing season is done for now up here so I guess I’ll see if I have any surprises in the spring.

Maybe I should run it for a little bit again next weekend just to give it another test. I’m really kind of perplexed how those o rings were leaking so bad and that the new ones seem to be working. I also noticed my drive belt is in rough shape so I’ll be taking everything apart anyways to replace that sometime this winter.

I would definitely test it some more, while you don't need it to be used.

My O ring issue occurred because I had overworked the transmission, had too heavy a load on the back end. Too much pressure built up.

Drive belt is pretty easy, especially compared to the newer X series.

Thanks for this post. I was gifted a JD gt275 and it started leaking after I used the bypass lever a few times. I have new o-rings from JD and I'm hoping to pick them to avoid spilling the case. I noticed one o-ring is smaller than the other. Do they go in in a certain order? Small then large?

I don't remember them being different sizes so I'm not sure. I would think though that the smaller one would go in first.