I cranked A tiller and let it run for about 3 minutes and then moved the level from choke to open and each time it died. I set it to the mid way point and was able to make a row. However, it never worked with the choke wide open it would crank on the 1st pull and never shut off, therefore I assumed the carb was ok. Thanks, in advance
Your symptoms indication a lean running condition, probably caused by a swollen float seat. If it came into the shop I would be ultrasonicly cleaning the carb and replace the float needle and seat.
#3
Fish
Lol, no just needs the carb dis-assembled and cleaned, mainly the nut/jet holding the bottom bowl on, but a complete cleaning and air drying would suffice.
No big air pressure or harsh chemicals, but look closely at the bowl nut/jet, there are tiny holes in it's side that need to be clean/clear. Also go ahead and drain the tank and let all of the moisture in there dry up too, as that is likely your only problem.
#4
reynoldston
What engine dose your tiller have in it?
#5
Fish
You guys are starting to sound like parts guys/part changers that cannot do anything without model number!!!!!!!!
I am glad that you and rivets have come around!!!!!
I can't speak for reynoldston, but I will never stoop to your level of posting. Just telling to OP what has worked for me hundreds of times. Here is a procedure for accomplishing what I suggested. It works very well on both Briggs and Tecumseh carbs.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
The reason we are always asking for model numbers is so we have a better idea to tell the guy to check. Troybilt has used Briggs, Kohler, Tecumseh, Honda, and now the MTD engine manufactured in china. All have different things to look for, even within the same engine brand.
Someday some of you guys that refer to the professionals as parts changers, will run into a situation where you are looking for a part, and a sample engine has used 5 different part numbers and they are all valid numbers, Or as in my case earlier this year. Had a customer bring in a push mower and said the primer didn't work, but would run great after dumping gas in the intake or by using starter fluid. this is the one where everybody talks about the rectagular air filter housing warping. but in this case you would be wrong. this engine had the wrong carb installed, and the air pressure hole for the primer to work was in a different location.
#8
Fish
You are misinterpreting how things are, because you have a set way that you do things, and the way you do things may ruin the little rubber seat in you
process.
But in reality, most of these engines just need the bowl nut/jet dropped off, and let all of the water/crud/old gas dribble out, and let it air dry, clean the
bowl nut/jet, reinstall, and you are good until next spring.
If you happen to ruin the rubber seat in your process, do not interpret this as their problem, as you are way off.
If a carb is "FLOODING", then you look at the needle/seat and/or the float.
If it is running a tad lean, you check and clean out the JETS!
In the shop we see at least a dozen engines every week, coming into the shop at the beginning of eash season with hunting/surging problems. With three mechanics and at the beginning of the season running 2-3 weeks behind we had to find a solution that was reliable, not costly and fast to keep things moving out. The cost of the needle and seat for either Tecumseh or most Briggs mower engines is about $3.75. The procedure which I posted takes less than 30 minutes if you have an ultrasonic cleaner. I am able to repair 95% of hunting/surging problems using this method.
In our shop we came to this conclusion by looking at many carbs before cleaning and found that the floats were closing to soon, creating a lean running condition. That is why we replace the parts and reset the float level. Because of the close tolerances, just resetting float level would only solve the problem 25% of the time. You may be able to solve this problem in other ways, but for the average consumer this method is very easy to understand and will solve their problem quickly.
#10
Fish
Yeah, The funny thing was/is being attacked/chastised by Rivets for asking for model numbers of the units on the thread.....
Then he gives up this silly bullchit about the "swelled" seat.....
I am sorry, but I really worked on this stuff................So, yeah, I will give him hell all day long.......
Mr. Fish, I too have worked on this stuff for more than 40 years. In Wisconsin to be a certified instructor in this field you must continue working in the field through out your teaching career to renew your licence.
You seem to be the only one on this forum who feels that my posts are bogus and individuals should not listen to them. I state in my signature that it is only my opinion and the members should make their own decision on whether to use what I post or not.
You are the only "professional" who has posted a negative comment on how I solve hunting, surging and flooding problems. If it is so wrong, why haven't others chimed in also?? If it works for me and others on this forum who have used it, what is wrong with it. If you don't believe my swelling seats, all you have to do the next time your help one of these problems, pull the seat, measure it with a calipers and then measure a new seat. If you don't have the time to do so, that is your option, but don't blast my statements until you have tested it.
When posting about my requesting numbers, I have done so, many more times than you know. At the same time, my experience has allowed me to picture the engine and what I feel is the solution without needing numbers. If you don't like my posts, that is your option, but I will continue to help members based on my experiences, which to my local customers have solved their problems, with or without numbers.
You guys are starting to sound like parts guys/part changers that cannot do anything without model number!!!!!!!! I am glad that you and rivets have come around!!!!!
If you read post 11 again you will see that I said you have both old and new seats available. Using a verineer caliper to measure them is quite easy, or you can also use a 1" micrometer. Both are tools you have learned to use as a Kohler Certified Plumber.
