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Good Day Everyone!

I bought a TB30R rider new back in the Spring of 2020, I changed the oil after the break-in period and replaced the stock plug with a stainless steel pipe and elbow to make oil changes easier. Over the course of the summer, it leaked all the oil out and I seized the engine to the point it won't turn over. In light of this, I contacted a few hardware/lawnmower repair places and I hear a new engine is $975-$1500.00 for a new motor. Is there ANY other engines that would work on these mowers????? Any help is greatly appreciated!! TIA!!

I'm here with a problem as well , I also have a TB 30 R that will crank but won"t start. Thing is if I take off the carb filter and cover the hole with my hand it will start , once I remove my hand it will die then . I would appreciate any and all help TIA.

Sounds like it's running too lean, either a dirty carb that needs cleaned, or a intake gasket leaking.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Sounds like it's running too lean, either a dirty carb that needs cleaned, or a intake gasket leaking.

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Well I know that when I had my hand over the hole that it was sucking it in hard. In other words it was alittle hard to pull away.

Beginer said:

Well I know that when I had my hand over the hole that it was sucking it in hard. In other words it was alittle hard to pull away.

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You should probably just buy a new Carburator as that is the number one thing to do when fixing a mower

here’s a link to the carb of that engine (don’t know if it’s correct) https://www.ebay.com/itm/324442596024

Mowerlove29 said:

You should probably just buy a new Carburator as that is the number one thing to do when fixing a mower

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That DIYer does he is most times by just guessing and throwing money at the problem.

Mowerlove29 said:

You should probably just buy a new Carburator as that is the number one thing to do when fixing a mower

here’s a link to the carb of that engine (don’t know if it’s correct) https://www.ebay.com/itm/324442596024

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Diagnosing what is wrong is the No 1 thing you go when attempting a repair
Last time I checked a new carb does not fix a hole in the piston, stuck valve, bent pushrod, broken timing key, cracked intake manifold, worn out rings, broken ring, bad fuel, gummed up fuel lines, etc,etc,etc
All of these are very common faults with the 200 or so mowers that come into my shop every year.

And head & shoulders above all problems is a bad plug, but that is generally a symptom , not the actual cause

Beginer said:

Well I know that when I had my hand over the hole that it was sucking it in hard. In other words it was alittle hard to pull away.

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Get a can of carb cleaner.
Start the engine then give it a short shot of cleaner down the carb throat.
If it continues to run repeat a few times , say about 30 seconds.
If you can keep it running then that says the carb is not supplying enough fuel to the engine.
So you start either at the tank and check fuel supply all the way to the intake valve or start with the carb and go back to the tank.
The engine causes the sucking .
The carb has to put enough fuel into that sucked air to keep the engine running.
Yours is not doing this

bertsmobile1 said:

Last time I checked a new carb does not fix a hole in the piston, stuck valve, bent pushrod, broken timing key, cracked intake manifold, worn out rings, broken ring, bad fuel, gummed up fuel lines, etc,etc,etc

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Sure it does.

bertsmobile1 said:

Diagnosing what is wrong is the No 1 thing you go when attempting a repair
Last time I checked a new carb does not fix a hole in the piston, stuck valve, bent pushrod, broken timing key, cracked intake manifold, worn out rings, broken ring, bad fuel, gummed up fuel lines, etc,etc,etc
All of these are very common faults with the 200 or so mowers that come into my shop every year.

And head & shoulders above all problems is a bad plug, but that is generally a symptom , not the actual cause

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Your right, but it just gets that problem out of the way to make sure that it isnt simply just the carb.

Personally I prefer to do the troubleshooting first before installing a non returnable $100+ OEM carburetor. Fuel related items are like electrical items here; they are not returnable.

I know you guys hate taking things to professional mechanic but is the long run it saves a lot problems. I had customers with electrical issue to spend over $300 in parts just to end up bringing the equipment into my shop where I find a fifty cent wire terminal bad.

StarTech said:

Personally I prefer to do the troubleshooting first before installing a non returnable $100+ OEM carburetor. Fuel related items are like electrical items here; they are not returnable.

I know you guys hate taking things to professional mechanic but is the long run it saves a lot problems. I had customers with electrical issue to spend over $300 in parts just to end up bringing the equipment into my shop where I find a fifty cent wire terminal bad.

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I usually buy carburators from ebay or amazon, which cost around 12 dollars depending if you want more things included or not. Many say that they are bad,but they arent. Yes Ive had one or two to come with a problem, but not including that they work perfectly fine.

You are one of the lucky ones then as I was getting about 1 out of 10 that work correctly.

as far as ccp carbs go,i've had a few that required cleaning to run right... bought one for my personal GX390, surged right out of the box, took apart, cleaned it. put it back on and ran like a top.
I had to order one for my Mule last year, a new mikuni is around $170 and north of 200 depending where you look, i bought a chineseium off of scAmazon, put it on and got it adjusted, however, when idling, when i press on the accelerator the RPM's would raise to probably about 2,200 as the belt would just be engaging, then drop down at a certain point, and if i kept pushing the accelerator through the RPM dop it would go. took it off, cleaned it, sprayed all the jets and passages with carburetor cleaner, put it back on and it ran like a top with no hesitation at take off.

They are about 50% for me. Got a couple for kohlers with wrong size main jet drilled in them. Tried 2 of the new plastic briggs carbs. Both just surged all the time. Most in The ebay stihl generic tune up kits have crap carbs, fuel lines and spark plugs. The generic Honda carbs seem to work ok and ones for the older tecumseh engines. As they say. It is a crap shoot. To OEM or not to OEM. That is the question.

Mowerlove29 said:

I usually buy carburators from ebay or amazon, which cost around 12 dollars depending if you want more things included or not. Many say that they are bad,but they arent. Yes Ive had one or two to come with a problem, but not including that they work perfectly fine.

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What you mean is they ran well enough for you to sell the mower .
What happened when the new owner gets a few hours up is a different thing

As for solving the problem that is not there, I get about one customer a month who has spent near $ 1000 ( aus) trying to fix the starting problem on their mower by throwing parts at it.
All of these just needed a valve lash adjustment .

If you can not work out if the carb is functioning properly in under 5 minutes then you should not be repairing mowers.
I gove 6 months warranty on repairs and 12 months on the few mowers I resell.
This has to be done to counter all of the sleazies who get mowers form the dump, toss some cheap Chinese parts on them then sell them as "reconditioned"

bertsmobile1 said:

What you mean is they ran well enough for you to sell the mower .
What happened when the new owner gets a few hours up is a different thing

As for solving the problem that is not there, I get about one customer a month who has spent near $ 1000 ( aus) trying to fix the starting problem on their mower by throwing parts at it.
All of these just needed a valve lash adjustment .

If you can not work out if the carb is functioning properly in under 5 minutes then you should not be repairing mowers.
I gove 6 months warranty on repairs and 12 months on the few mowers I resell.
This has to be done to counter all of the sleazies who get mowers form the dump, toss some cheap Chinese parts on them then sell them as "reconditioned"

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I don’t run a business like you do and I just fix and sell for fun.

Mowerlove29 said:

I don’t run a business like you do and I just fix and sell for fun.

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I sure hope you got very good liability insurance in case you just rig something up that get an user hurt. Here I rigged jobs that has to repaired right including safety systems or the customer can just carry the equipment to another.

I don't want to be the one responsible for a child getting chopped up because the reverse lock0out system was bypassed.. And it has happen twice in the last five years in North Alabama alone, none were any of my repairs.