Troy-bilt Backfire now won't start

A

Air87

Forum Newbie
So the issue I have right now is with my 2008 Troy-bilt Bronco with 17hp Briggs & Stratton. I bought it used and had issues with it from the start. I finally got it working yesterday but when I was finishing my side yard I was going up a hill. It got stuck in a hole so I went to shutoff the engine so I can push it out. When I did it backfired and then the engine cut off. Now I can't turn it on at all. It doesn't even turn over. I turn the key and nothing. No sound from the engine, no moving, nothing at all.

What may be the problem and will I be able to fix it? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Here is some additional information about the engine.

Model: 311777
Type: 0143-E1
Code: 001116ZE (not sure about the last two digits they were hard to read)
 
Without being there I can only guess if you have "NOTHING" it sounds like a dead battery,or possibly a a a battery cable came off, also could be a blown fuse.
OK we know it's a Troy-Bilt but giving us the mowers model numbers ( usually found under the lift-up seat, would be very helpful, see example, yes we see the eng. info you posted.

GET INFO.JPG
 
Boobala said:
Without being there I can only guess if you have "NOTHING" it sounds like a dead battery,or possibly a a a battery cable came off, also could be a blown fuse.
OK we know it's a Troy-Bilt but giving us the mowers model numbers ( usually found under the lift-up seat, would be very helpful, see example, yes we see the eng. info you posted.

View attachment 33299
Click to expand...

Here is the Model# sorry for not posting it before. Been a crazy day.

Model#: 13WX78KS011

I don't think it is the battery. It is a bran new battery I bought last week and I charged overnight last night. When I went to turn it on this morning, still nothing at all. I can double check the batter cables but at quick look they were still connected. I was thinking a fuse too but haven't had a chance to take a look at it yet.

If you need more information, please let me know.
 
This is generic information.
It is not the only way to do it but it is my way
There are other ways and they work just as well so you decide which suggestions to follow then follow them to the letter , post the results to all of the tests and do them in the order listed.
That way people who understand mowers can follow on and give further advice should I not be available
Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.

I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from an or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.

1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
Starter turns = starter good

2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.

3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )

4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
I run a secondary ground from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.

5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the solenoid.
Ground one & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.


From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.
Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.
 
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