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I just installed a Husqvarna repair kit for the transaxle mounts, along with a low hours K46 transaxle. I changed the fluid before installing it. I also replaced the drive belt since it was the original one. When I started the mower, it wouldn't move in either forward or reverse. I checked the drive belt for proper routing, which was correct. I made sure that the transaxle was in the drive mode, which it was. I tried it again, and it moved in reverse, but barely. The same for forward. I tried several times, with each time getting a little better.
Is this just an issue with bleeding the air, or something else?
Thanks ?

Yes need the air bleed procedure done. Pull the bypass, jack the rear wheels up off the ground start and run the engine at idle and move the direction control back and forth slowly several times, and then push the bypass in and do the same back and forth direction control, and then set the rear wheels on the ground and see if it will move.

I will do that. Thank you!

I meant to ask, is there an adjustment for the brake?

No adjustment for the transaxle itself although the mower itself my have an adjustment. The transaxle brake is internal to the unit.

Yeah, I knew that the brake was internal to the transaxle. I was just curious about if there's any adjustment to the brake pedal. I assume that would somehow affect the clutch, since they are one in the same pedal.

Without the model number (from serial number tag) of the equipment we cant look up the info as to if the pedal linkage is adjustable, fixed, or spring loaded.

It's 936042, Ariens 20hp 42" deck.

No adjustment possible as it use spring tension to activate the braking. The circle parts are the brake related items.

Thank you very much for your help. The brake/clutch pedal shakes slightly while the tractor is running. No big deal, I was just concerned about something being worn.

If it shakes then some thing is wron & it will not get better over time
things than make the pedal shake
1) crud stuck in one of the pulleys
2) bad spot on the belt , burn or chunk missing
3) idler pulley not tight
4) tension arm hole flogger out oval
5) dry bearing in one of the idlers
6) flat spot on one of the idlers

So you really need to do a good check because you are coming into mowing season and it will always break at the most inoppertune time

Thanks! Nothing stuck in the pulleys, and it's a new belt. The pulleys are the original ones, so maybe they need replaced.
Can you please explain what #4 is?

Thanks ?

Item # 189 in the diagram Star published is the tension arm
It has a hole that bush # 186 sits in ( note it is upside down in the image )
The bush wears and is a service replacement item
If not lubricated the hole in plate # 189 floggs out which allows the plate to move back & forth rather than just rotate and this will cause the pedal to bounce .
However flat spots on the plastic pulley are the most common cause of pedal bounce .

I will have to check that out, sir. Thanks ?