Toro Z master G3 dies when running, won't crank

yawg

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I have an older Z master G3 model 74937 which has been great. Except that it dies when it gets around 20F (or -5 Celsius) ambient temp when going into neutral, and won't crank afterwards.
Before anyone asks what I can possibly mow in the winder (as I am sure you are wondering!), my wife uses the mower to pull her small manure spreader.

This happened 3 month ago and 2 weeks ago. The mower is running, parking brake and PTO off, driver seated, and when putting the arms out (to go in neutral) the engine shut off immediately, as if a safety interlock is triggering. Afterwards, when trying to start, there is no crank, no click whatsoever, no solenoid noise. Three months ago, the issue seemed to go away after the weather warmed back up, and my wife cleaned the safety switches. This time, its been cold for 2 weeks and still no luck, mower is stuck. This time also, it was running in cold weather, PTO and parking brake off, driver seated, and it died when going in neutral. No crank no click afterwards.

I checked the fuses, new battery, then used the service manual procedure to check seat sensor, both arms sensors, parking brake sensor, PTO switch, ignition contact switch, ignition relay. All those components tested OK. The TVF diode was bad, I replaced it, no improvement. I bypassed each safety sensor and PTO switch with a wire, no luck. The starter solenoid is not getting 12V on the signal wire when starting. If I apply 12V to the solenoid signal wire, the engine will start cranking.

I thought the hour meter could have been damaged from the lack of protection from the TVF diode being dead. The hour meter most of the time did not show the gas level or the interlock arrows (showing which safety is on or off) even when the mower was running.
I put a new hour meter on, which showed the interlock safety were all correctly ON and ready to start, went to start, and got nothing. Nothing, except that the new hour meter would not show the interlock safety arrows anymore.
The hour meter modules (both new and old) display has been inconsistent. Occasionally when reconnecting it, it will show the interlock safety arrows. Then that goes away when trying to start. I tried warming the module in the house in case there would be a temperature sensor embedded in it, no luck.

Any idea of something to check that I did not check yet? I have not been able to check much of the wiring so far, it is bitter cold outside and there is a bunch of snow.

Would anyone know where I could find some documentation on the hour meter module harness (part #117-3882) wiring diagram and signals? I want to use this to diagnose my wiring: is there a wiring issue in the safety switches, in the wires to the solenoid, to the ignition switch, is it getting 12V etc...

Any documentation on how to bypass the hour meter module/safety interlock module is also much welcome.

Below is what the new hour meter module/safety interlock looks like in each key position, after it stopped showing the safety interlocks on the first start try. Old hour meter shows the same except 1500hrs.
The bolts are off because I have been bypassing or diagnosing a bunch of stuff.

OFF.jpg

RUN.jpg

START.jpg
 
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Tiger Small Engine

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I have an older Z master G3 model 74937 which has been great. Except that it dies when it gets around 20F (or -5 Celsius) ambient temp when going into neutral, and won't crank afterwards.
Before anyone asks what I can possibly mow in the winder (as I am sure you are wondering!), my wife uses the mower to pull her small manure spreader.

This happened 3 month ago and 2 weeks ago. The mower is running, parking brake and PTO off, driver seated, and when putting the arms out (to go in neutral) the engine shut off immediately, as if a safety interlock is triggering. Afterwards, when trying to start, there is no crank, no click whatsoever, no solenoid noise. Three months ago, the issue seemed to go away after the weather warmed back up, and my wife cleaned the safety switches. This time, its been cold for 2 weeks and still no luck, mower is stuck. This time also, it was running in cold weather, PTO and parking brake off, driver seated, and it died when going in neutral. No crank no click afterwards.

I checked the fuses, new battery, then used the service manual procedure to check seat sensor, both arms sensors, parking brake sensor, PTO switch, ignition contact switch, ignition relay. All those components tested OK. The TVF diode was bad, I replaced it, no improvement. I bypassed each safety sensor and PTO switch with a wire, no luck. The starter solenoid is not getting 12V on the signal wire when starting. If I apply 12V to the solenoid signal wire, the engine will start cranking.

I thought the hour meter could have been damaged from the lack of protection from the TVF diode being dead. The hour meter most of the time did not show the gas level or the interlock arrows (showing which safety is on or off) even when the mower was running.
I put a new hour meter on, which showed the interlock safety were all correctly ON and ready to start, went to start, and got nothing. Nothing, except that the new hour meter would not show the interlock safety arrows anymore.
The hour meter modules (both new and old) display has been inconsistent. Occasionally when reconnecting it, it will show the interlock safety arrows. Then that goes away when trying to start. I tried warming the module in the house in case there would be a temperature sensor embedded in it, no luck.

Any idea of something to check that I did not check yet? I have not been able to check much of the wiring so far, it is bitter cold outside and there is a bunch of snow.

Would anyone know where I could find some documentation on the hour meter module harness (part #117-3882) wiring diagram and signals? I want to use this to diagnose my wiring: is there a wiring issue in the safety switches, in the wires to the solenoid, to the ignition switch, is it getting 12V etc...

Any documentation on how to bypass the hour meter module/safety interlock module is also much welcome.

Below is what the new hour meter module/safety interlock looks like in each key position, after it stopped showing the safety interlocks on the first start try. Old hour meter shows the same except 1500hrs.
The bolts are off because I have been bypassing or diagnosing a bunch of stuff.

View attachment 70368

View attachment 70369

View attachment 70370
What is a TVF diode? Sounds to me like a failing intermittent steering arm safety switch problem. Are the safety switches two or four wire?
 

StarTech

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The TVS Diode is a surge protector for the electric PTO clutch. And it is a back to back Zener diodes; actually it two Zener diodes with anodes connected together..

As for hour meter going offline as turn ignition to run it sound you are losing either the ground return or positive input from battery. IE a bad electrical connection.
1736517723700.png
 
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yawg

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What is a TVF diode? Sounds to me like a failing intermittent steering arm safety switch problem. Are the safety switches two or four wire?
Two wires. I bypassed both switches, no luck, and both showed good when the hour meter did show the interlock, but still no luck. Also I don't believe it would explain why it died running, since the arms are allowed to be in any position while running.

The TVS Diode is a surge protector for the electric PTO clutch. And it is a back to back Zener diodes; actually it two Zener diodes with anodes connected together..

As for hour meter going offline as turn ignition to run it sound you are losing either the ground return or positive input from battery. IE a bad electrical connection.
View attachment 70371
Thank you SO MUCH for the wiring diagram, that is invaluable. It will allow me to start troubleshooting the wiring, which is where I also believe the issue might lie.

Where did you find the wiring diagram, and can I access that original document? I am looking for the pins number chart for the harness. Being colorblind, matching the wire colors is sometimes tricky for me.
 

StarTech

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Back of owners manual.

https://www.toro.com/getpub/57707

Here is a pin out numbering for the MX150 connector at the hour meter. Reference the schematic in an enlarge view to see which wire is which pin.

1736524201190.png
You also the instruction for disassembly and re assembly of this connector.

Molex MX150 Repair Instructions

You shouldn't have to check the PTO connector.
 

yawg

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Back of owners manual.

https://www.toro.com/getpub/57707

Here is a pin out numbering for the MX150 connector at the hour meter. Reference the schematic in an enlarge view to see which wire is which pin.

View attachment 70372
You also the instruction for disassembly and re assembly of this connector.

Molex MX150 Repair Instructions

You shouldn't have to check the PTO connector.
This is very helpful, thank you so much!

Somehow my print of the owners manual was missing the last few pages with the wiring diagram, tis fixed now thanks to you guys.

With those references I'll be able to do some effective wiring checking this weekend. Hoping it won't take to long to find the issue.
 

yawg

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I was able to test all the circuits today with the diagram. It was indeed a poor connection on the positive 12V from battery to pin #12. It showed 12V in OFF, but in ON the draw in amps from the other circuits lowered it to 6V.
The poor connection was in the white hardness right by the starter solenoid, between the engine and the frame. Its fairly open and lets dirt and water in. Cleaned that up, added a bunch of silicone paste to prevent this happening again too soon.

Anyway, intermittent wiring issues are one of the most annoying to diagnose as far as I have experienced, especially in the middle of the field, with snow and cold!
 

Rivets

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Glad to hear you’ve joined the club of electrical troubleshooting. We’ve all been there and found that a good meter, schematic and patience are our friends.
 
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