Toro Wheelhorse XL12-38 stalls after about 15mins

[bluegirl]

Some days I get 30 mins cutting and other times only 5 mins.It sputters alot and runs rough until it finally stalls. Feels like running out of gas. So I'm either looking at an ignition coil or a fuel issue. The fuel filter has gas in it, but can't really see if it is moving or not. I have stabilizer in the gas. I just changed the oil so that's not it. I shall get some carb cleaner to try the burst of cleaner into air chamber to see if it continues running. It would be cool if it was just a restricted fuel filter but alas I do not have that sort of luck. I took the ignition coil off to have a look at it and it does have continuity. Bad kill wire? Could that be? The flywheel is rusty but has alot of magnetism. The ignition coil is original (1995)so maybe it's bad. I have read that when they get hot the heat causes the "wire" to separate. Can just the wire be replaced? Doesn't look like it.
What's my cheapest plan of attack? I've just rebuilt the deck spindles so not too keen to keep throwing $$$ at this machine if I don't need to.

 

[mechanic mark]

Toro WheelHorse 260 Series service manual


http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm

http://www.gobookee.org/get_book.ph...vciBGYWN0b3J5IFNlcnZpY2UgUmVwYWlyIE1hbnVhbA==

 

[Rivets]

Let's test a couple of things first, before you go sticking money into it. First, the next time it happens immediately check to see if you have spark. If no spark I would assume that your coil is bad and will need to be replaced. If you have spark, then it is probably a fuel issue. I would like you to then loosen the gas cap when it starts to sputter. I know that you might not get it started right after checking for spark and may have to wait awhile to get it going again. What we are checking is to see if a vacuum is being created in the tank, due to the vent in the cap being clogged. Report back what you find, I may not answer right away, but will do so as soon as I can.

 

[bluegirl]

I had tried loosening the gas cap but this did not make a difference. That would have been nice How do you test for spark? Thought about cleaning the carb?

 

[bluegirl]

Hey Mechanic Mark. Thanks for the manuals links. Will sift thru to see what I can see.

 

[Rivets]

Going to need a helper. When it quits, as quick as you can remove the spark plug wire from the plug and insert a new plug into the wire. While you hold the plug tight to the engine metal, have someone turn the engine over with the starter. Watch to see if a spark jumps the gap.

 

[bluegirl]

I tested the coil & kill wire while cold with my multimeter. Coil tested 5000 & the kill wire tested infinity?Is this information of value or does it need to be tested when hot. I sanded the rust off the magnet & coil just to optimize everything & used a business card to gap. If only the rain would stop.

 

[Rivets]

Sorry, with today's coils resistance readings don't offer a lot of help. You cannot test the capacitor inside the coil which may be bad.

 

[bluegirl]

I finally had a chance to get back on my mower today. Did 2 tests when she was about to pooch out. Was able to short burst carb cleaner into the air inlet and to check for spark. So the verdict is good spark with a new spark plug and the engine would continue running with the carb cleaner. That, I assume, points me to a fuel problem. What I don't understand is why it stalls only once it's warm. Also, will a carb cleaning be sufficient? Getting to the end of season here.

 

[Rivets]

Please post the engine model numbers. After those tests we know it is a fuel problem, but what part of the fuel system is what we need to find. If your engine has a fuel pump it could be a bad pulse line. If your carb fuel solenoid, it could have a hot short, cutting off the fuel when it gets warm. If could just need a good carb cleaning. Have you looked to see if there might be something in the gas tank that could be blocking the fuel flow after the unit is bounced around?