toro 32" rear engine mower not running....again

[logert gogert]

alright guys, so you have probably seen my other threads about this same mower, first i found it on side of road, the i brought it home, cleaned the carb, then it ran like a jewel for about 2 months, i don't even know why he threw it away, 5 speed tranny was smooth, engine ran like new, added with a new blade that thing cuts through tall grass like butter, and actually, i think it would give any 16hp+ engine a run for its money when cutting.
but about a week ago i was cutting somebody yard, and out of no where, it started to act all wonky, it was as if i were cutting, and i were to turn the ignition switch off, and right before the engine dies you switch the ignition back to "on", and it did that for about 10 seconds then it died.
i finished his yard with the push mower, brought it back home so i could take a look at it, i made sure everything was in neutral, ignition on, throttle on, tried to start it, wouldn't start, i pulled the plug, it looked fine, wasn't flooded or anything, i checked for spark, it had spark.
as you guys know i don't have a compression checker so i couldn't check for that......
i suspected it was a carb issue, but when i put a wee bit of gas in the throat of the carb, it wouldn't even try to run that way, not even with starting fluid.
what do you guys think the issue is?

model numbers:
_____________________________________________
on engine:

model: 286707
type: 4029-01
_____________________________________________
code: 960607ZB
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on frame:

model: 5655
serial: 3001943
____________________________________________

 

[logert gogert]

once again, noticed this thread wasn't on the front page....so I'm posting this to keep it on the front page

 

[logert gogert]

okay guys, an update:
i went out today, and took the carb a part, and put it in the ultra sonic cleaner, for about 4, 8 minute cycles, let it dry, put it back together.
didn't over tighten anything, didn't strip anything, and i put it back together correctly.
put it back on, and it still wouldn't run after pulling about 30 times, with choke, with full throttle.
then i decided to try starting fluid and it ran, but for like a second
so I'm suspecting its a carb issue?
once again, what do you guys think is wrong?

 

[Rivets]

You probably burnt too many bridges!!??

 

[dougand3]

Debris in tank slowing/blocking fuel flow? You need to demonstrate engine will run by spraying fuel in carb throat every 2 secs. If you can get a 20 sec run, you know it's fuel delivery. Then, just buy a $15 AM carb.

 

[logert gogert]

If you can get a 20 sec run, you know it's fuel delivery.

yes, i have done that, i actually got it to run fore more like 30 sec,

no debris in tank though, i took the line off the carb and gas spilled out the line, so the tank is flowing freely

 

[logert gogert]

You probably burnt too many bridges!!??

what that mean? ?

 

[logert gogert]

Then, just buy a $15 AM carb.

i saw a name brand carb for my specific engine for about 100$, where'd you get 15 from?
I've had no luck with chinese/cheap carbs, in seedeaters, blowers, and push mowers, they never worked

 

[dougand3]

Well, I've had good luck with cheap AM carbs 9 out of 10 times. Get your carb # and search ebay, amazon, etc. Probably 498027 or 499158. Pay attn to gravity fed or fuel pump carb.
Or pay $150 for an OEM carb.

 

[logert gogert]

soon...do you think i should get one?
you're right....they probably will make the motor run, but how good is durability?

and its not 150$ for OEM, its 100$