Tire pops off the rim
- Thread starter Big-Rich
- Start date
Keep in mind that if the bead keeps coming unseated due to harsh side loading a tube can be easily installed since the tire bead unseats easily for the installation, but you do have to be careful now days and get a good name brand tube and it will be close to $20. (lots of China inner tubes that are a waste of money and time) Carlisle is one good name brand of tube.
When you hit a hard side load on the tire it immediately loses air but a tube might keep the tire bead seated and no lose of air even if the bead flexes.
After installing a tube I place a snug/tight small zip tie around the valve stem to help retain the stem from going inside if the tube gets low on air pressure.
Price and labor of a good inner tube now days will almost equal the price of a new tire so it's a judgement call on your part. (and if the tire has a small thorn inside a tube will do no good)
When you hit a hard side load on the tire it immediately loses air but a tube might keep the tire bead seated and no lose of air even if the bead flexes.
After installing a tube I place a snug/tight small zip tie around the valve stem to help retain the stem from going inside if the tube gets low on air pressure.
Price and labor of a good inner tube now days will almost equal the price of a new tire so it's a judgement call on your part. (and if the tire has a small thorn inside a tube will do no good)
Big-Rich
Member
Thanks slomo. I'm a DIY'er and I understand that your suggestion would be quick, and easy but expensive.
What if the problem is a warped or damaged rim that I cannot see? Then I've spend money on a new tire and the rim is the culprit.True, I could buy a new rim then and the problem will be solved. I will keep it in mind after I try a few more things.
Big-Rich
Member
I'm one or two troubleshooting steps away from going with a tube. If I need to break the bead to try the sealant, I may as well put a tube in instead and save a step. I don't mind spending $20.00 for a good tube, I do need to find out what replacement tube gets the valve stem hole to line up best with the wheel hole. Some wheels seem to be closer to the center of the rim than the edge.
Anyone know if there is a Carlisle tube (URL pointer) that is a sure fire fit at a good price?
Since you are a do it yourselfer here is little bit of info to consider:
I may have overlooked your tire size.????
A TR13 is a straight stem tube and a TR-87 is the curved stem in Carlisle brand. Firestone is a good brand but not often seen.
You can view pictures of the tubes and stems on fleece bay.
I don't use the TR-87 curved stems very often unless it's on a little bitty rim. (or I see a really good lower price as compared to the same size straight stem tube.
Most generally the Lawn tractor Carlisle straight stem inner tube will be correct for lawn tractor rims for alignment if you select the correct size tube.
If the stem hole location is not even close for the tube I just move around the rim and drill a correct size hole, de-burr the hole and place couple layers of duck tape or equivalent over the other stem hole.
If you have Amazon prime a search will sometimes get a go, but keep a heads up, sometimes they (amazon) will show two tubes in the picture and you will only receive one at a inflated price.
At least with Amazon Prime if you receive the wrong tube or a bad tube it's usually FREE returns.
I may have overlooked your tire size.????
A TR13 is a straight stem tube and a TR-87 is the curved stem in Carlisle brand. Firestone is a good brand but not often seen.
You can view pictures of the tubes and stems on fleece bay.
I don't use the TR-87 curved stems very often unless it's on a little bitty rim. (or I see a really good lower price as compared to the same size straight stem tube.
Most generally the Lawn tractor Carlisle straight stem inner tube will be correct for lawn tractor rims for alignment if you select the correct size tube.
If the stem hole location is not even close for the tube I just move around the rim and drill a correct size hole, de-burr the hole and place couple layers of duck tape or equivalent over the other stem hole.
If you have Amazon prime a search will sometimes get a go, but keep a heads up, sometimes they (amazon) will show two tubes in the picture and you will only receive one at a inflated price.
At least with Amazon Prime if you receive the wrong tube or a bad tube it's usually FREE returns.
Big-Rich
Member
Thank you Forest#2. I truly appreciate you helping me understand the tube types. As I was looking around online I decided to call the place where I bought the mower years ago. They said they would put a new tube in for $27.00. I was sold, I took the wheel off the mower and took it to the shop.
I just returned and put it back on the mower. Now it shouldn't matter if it was the tire or the wheel, the tube will hold it against the rim and should hold air even if the rim is not perfect for some reason. We'll see.
I thought they'd charge more than that. Now, if it blows, they will replace it, and if it doesn't, I didn't need to wait for the part and risk pinching it during installation.
A tire shop will identify any rim issues. It wasn't that expensive to have them toss in a couple tubes and some tire sealant on my mower. Better than airing up tires every mow.
Sounds like you've possibly stretched the beads out and won't stay on the rim??. Tires are junk. Hard to tell from what you relay to us. Maybe it's time for a lawn crew if funds are too tight to maintain the mower? Do a cost analysis. Price of mower, blades, belts, spindles, oil, gasoline, air filters, fuel filters and maybe an oil filter. Have a lawn crew do it. You won't have to mess with any of that. Also you won't have to store it and buy new batteries for it every 3 years. Just sit on the couch drinking a cold one.
Big-Rich
Member
Well slomo, I'd have to say that the tires are good quality since they are the original 9 year old tires. I never had a problem with the other three, just this one and I think I probably glanced a barrier breaking the bead to cause the first flat. After that I probably pumped it back up and got some dirt in the bead. After that I possibly damaged (stretched) the tire taking it off and putting it back on. So, the bead was fixed and the tire just wasn't tight on the rim like before.
I still have the original battery although its days must be numbered. I even go to the shed and charge it in the winter. Original belts on it too. I bought one set of blades and I sharpen the set I take off and put on the other set when I lift it up to clean the deck. I have never bought more than one extra blade or set of blades for any mower I've owned. I got over 20 years out of my first mower, a walk behind Snapper. My chain saw and blower/vac are easily 30 years old and work just fine. I am on my third string trimmer. Not bad for 45 years of lawn care (personal use only). I did buy a cheap Husqvarna to mow my ditches. That's 9 years old too but I abuse it with the type of work it has to do so it is not going to break any records for longevity, but I expect that. That blade brake and clutch cable already needed replacement in 9 short years
.So, in short, my cost analysis has me working hard but well ahead of the financial curve. There will be a day soon where I will not have the strength to do my own stuff and then I'll get the pros involved.
You say:
There will be a day soon where I will not have the strength to do my own stuff and then I'll get the pros involved.
You might keep a ear and eye open.
I've heard of robot mowers, vacuum cleaners and EV's that drive themselves.
Using AI.
I recently heard AI mentioned on news. I thought they were referring to Artificial Insemination of robots and lawn mowers.
There will be a day soon where I will not have the strength to do my own stuff and then I'll get the pros involved.
You might keep a ear and eye open.
I've heard of robot mowers, vacuum cleaners and EV's that drive themselves.
Using AI.
I recently heard AI mentioned on news. I thought they were referring to Artificial Insemination of robots and lawn mowers.