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I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

What’s causing the problem? Under inflated or flat? Bad rim? Tire worn out?

Most times the cause is an air leak. Never had a tire come off the rim when it was properly pressurized. Before your remove the tire from the rim, fill to 30 psi and spray everything, tire and rim, with a mixture of water and dish soap. Fastest way to find leaks.

Thank you MParr and Rivets.

I do keep the tire pressure monitored and it is not leaking. It's good when I start mowing and at some point, POP, it's off the rim! I am 300 pounds and I'm sure that doesn't help.

I did have a bead leak in that tire a few years back, I almost forgot about it. At that time I did the soapy water squirt and saw the tiny bubbles.

Now that I recall that, I bet I stretched the tire when I removed it to clean up the rim and tire mating surface. If that's true, I'm wondering if the tire sealant will make up for the stretching? I now see that "X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer" comes in three different thicknesses 14-101, 14-101A, and 14-101B.

I wouldn't go through all this if the replacement tires weren't so crazy expensive. Part # 600692 (tire only) goes for $150.00. Even substitute tires are over a hundred bucks. You'd think this was a car.

Anyone find a suitable tube for this size and rim type?

You might try putting a tube in it.
If that don't work out for you, get a push mower that has solid rubber tires (no air) and it will help you lose some of the excess weight that you mentioned you probably need to lose.
Most generally when a tire is bead is coming loose the tire is under inflated.

Is this the front tire or rear tire?

Forest#2 said:

You might try putting a tube in it.
If that don't work out for you, get a push mower that has solid rubber tires (no air) and it will help you lose some of the excess weight that you mentioned you probably need to lose.
Most generally when a tire is bead is coming loose the tire is under inflated.

Is this the front tire or rear tire?

Click to expand...

You may be jumping to conclusions Forest#2 . I am also 6'8" tall. That's me on the Hustler in my Avatar. I had to buy handle extensions to fit my legs under the steering arms. Yes, I could use to lose a few, but it ain't what it seems.

For what it's worth, I do have a push mower that I use in the ditches they have around my house. North Carolina's solution to drainage, but you won't catch me out there with the temps in the 90's and me in my mid 70's doing the rest of the property without a riding mower.

It is the rear tire. I check the tire pressure regularly. Hustler calls for between 10 and 12 PSI. I have a measurement between the mower frame and the floor so I'd notice even a slight loss of air pressure. It isn't tire pressure, it just goes pop. I fill it back up and it's good to go for at least a few mowings.

I'd certainly go for a inner tube before investing in solid tires. Solid tires in that size would be very expensive, if they even make them.

Small correction, the manual calls for between 8 and 12 psi, I keep it between 10 and 12.

Here's an excerpt from the manual:
----------------------
It is important for level mowing that the tires have the same
amount of air pressure. The recommended pressures are:
Drive wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-12 psi (55-83 KPa)
Front wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-12 psi (55-83 KPa)

You could put a tube in it. With the age of the tires, they could be dry rotted and be leaking from multiple cracks.
Keep the tires at 12 psi.

Fill tire to 15 psi. Use the unit for about 20 minutes and recheck the pressure. Loss in pressure means you have a leak probably caused by a crack in the tire which shows itself during use. No loss in pressure recheck after another 20 minutes. It would be the first time I’ve heard of a tire coming off the rim if it is holding the proper pressure.

Thank you MParr & Rivets, I will try the troubleshooting tips you suggest and they do make sense. I will add that when the problem occurs it seems to occur when I'm doing considerable maneuvering which is adding horizontal torque to the tire when I hit a dry, rough surface like the driveway etc.

I don't think it is dry rotted and leaking slowly since it is up to pressure when I start mowing. I was out mowing yesterday when you were replying and the mowing was incident free.

I will try the 15 lb. experiment this weekend since I am pretty far behind on my chores. If it passes the "over-pressure" test, I will try the bead sealant next and swap the rear tires left to right to see if that helps or hurts.

I decided there is no reason to wait on the 15 lb. pressure test so I pumped it up this morning and will check it again before and after the next mowing. Mowing for me is a little under 2 hours so that should be a good test. If it maintains pressure that rules out slow leaks in my opinion. If it pops, I'm back where I started this discussion. If it loses pressure, I'm going to plan to either try the bead sealant or replace the tire since that would indicate the rubber is dry rotted like Rivets suggested.

Replace the tire. Move on with life.

Remove the wheel. Take it to a car tire shop. Call prior to make sure they have new tires in your size and maybe tubes as well. They will change it out in no time with the CORRECT TOOLS.

Keep in mind that if the bead keeps coming unseated due to harsh side loading a tube can be easily installed since the tire bead unseats easily for the installation, but you do have to be careful now days and get a good name brand tube and it will be close to $20. (lots of China inner tubes that are a waste of money and time) Carlisle is one good name brand of tube.
When you hit a hard side load on the tire it immediately loses air but a tube might keep the tire bead seated and no lose of air even if the bead flexes.
After installing a tube I place a snug/tight small zip tie around the valve stem to help retain the stem from going inside if the tube gets low on air pressure.
Price and labor of a good inner tube now days will almost equal the price of a new tire so it's a judgement call on your part. (and if the tire has a small thorn inside a tube will do no good)

slomo said:

Replace the tire. Move on with life.

Remove the wheel. Take it to a car tire shop. Call prior to make sure they have new tires in your size and maybe tubes as well. They will change it out in no time with the CORRECT TOOLS.

Click to expand...

Thanks slomo. I'm a DIY'er and I understand that your suggestion would be quick, and easy but expensive.

What if the problem is a warped or damaged rim that I cannot see? Then I've spend money on a new tire and the rim is the culprit.True, I could buy a new rim then and the problem will be solved. I will keep it in mind after I try a few more things.

Forest#2 said:

Keep in mind that if the bead keeps coming unseated due to harsh side loading a tube can be easily installed since the tire bead unseats easily for the installation, but you do have to be careful now days and get a good name brand tube and it will be close to $20. (lots of China inner tubes that are a waste of money and time) Carlisle is one good name brand of tube.
When you hit a hard side load on the tire it immediately loses air but a tube might keep the tire bead seated and no lose of air even if the bead flexes.
After installing a tube I place a snug/tight small zip tie around the valve stem to help retain the stem from going inside if the tube gets low on air pressure.
Price and labor of a good inner tube now days will almost equal the price of a new tire so it's a judgement call on your part. (and if the tire has a small thorn inside a tube will do no good)

Click to expand...

I'm one or two troubleshooting steps away from going with a tube. If I need to break the bead to try the sealant, I may as well put a tube in instead and save a step. I don't mind spending $20.00 for a good tube, I do need to find out what replacement tube gets the valve stem hole to line up best with the wheel hole. Some wheels seem to be closer to the center of the rim than the edge.

Anyone know if there is a Carlisle tube (URL pointer) that is a sure fire fit at a good price?

Since you are a do it yourselfer here is little bit of info to consider:

I may have overlooked your tire size.????

A TR13 is a straight stem tube and a TR-87 is the curved stem in Carlisle brand. Firestone is a good brand but not often seen.
You can view pictures of the tubes and stems on fleece bay.
I don't use the TR-87 curved stems very often unless it's on a little bitty rim. (or I see a really good lower price as compared to the same size straight stem tube.

Most generally the Lawn tractor Carlisle straight stem inner tube will be correct for lawn tractor rims for alignment if you select the correct size tube.
If the stem hole location is not even close for the tube I just move around the rim and drill a correct size hole, de-burr the hole and place couple layers of duck tape or equivalent over the other stem hole.

If you have Amazon prime a search will sometimes get a go, but keep a heads up, sometimes they (amazon) will show two tubes in the picture and you will only receive one at a inflated price.
At least with Amazon Prime if you receive the wrong tube or a bad tube it's usually FREE returns.

Forest#2 said:

Since you are a do it yourselfer here is little bit of info to consider:

I may have overlooked your tire size.????

A TR13 is a straight stem tube and a TR-87 is the curved stem in Carlisle brand. Firestone is a good brand but not often seen.
You can view pictures of the tubes and stems on fleece bay.
I don't use the TR-87 curved stems very often unless it's on a little bitty rim. (or I see a really good lower price as compared to the same size straight stem tube.

Most generally the Lawn tractor Carlisle straight stem inner tube will be correct for lawn tractor rims for alignment if you select the correct size tube.
If the stem hole location is not even close for the tube I just move around the rim and drill a correct size hole, de-burr the hole and place couple layers of duck tape or equivalent over the other stem hole.

If you have Amazon prime a search will sometimes get a go, but keep a heads up, sometimes they (amazon) will show two tubes in the picture and you will only receive one at a inflated price.
At least with Amazon Prime if you receive the wrong tube or a bad tube it's usually FREE returns.

Click to expand...

Thank you Forest#2. I truly appreciate you helping me understand the tube types. As I was looking around online I decided to call the place where I bought the mower years ago. They said they would put a new tube in for $27.00. I was sold, I took the wheel off the mower and took it to the shop.

I just returned and put it back on the mower. Now it shouldn't matter if it was the tire or the wheel, the tube will hold it against the rim and should hold air even if the rim is not perfect for some reason. We'll see.

I thought they'd charge more than that. Now, if it blows, they will replace it, and if it doesn't, I didn't need to wait for the part and risk pinching it during installation.

Thank you all for your suggestions and recommendations. Everyone was helpful in some way.

I will only be posting back here if something strange happens to that wheel/tire, but I don't expect to.

Big-Rich said:

Thanks slomo. I'm a DIY'er and I understand that your suggestion would be quick, and easy but expensive.

What if the problem is a warped or damaged rim that I cannot see? Then I've spend money on a new tire and the rim is the culprit.True, I could buy a new rim then and the problem will be solved. I will keep it in mind after I try a few more things.

Click to expand...

A tire shop will identify any rim issues. It wasn't that expensive to have them toss in a couple tubes and some tire sealant on my mower. Better than airing up tires every mow.

Sounds like you've possibly stretched the beads out and won't stay on the rim??. Tires are junk. Hard to tell from what you relay to us. Maybe it's time for a lawn crew if funds are too tight to maintain the mower? Do a cost analysis. Price of mower, blades, belts, spindles, oil, gasoline, air filters, fuel filters and maybe an oil filter. Have a lawn crew do it. You won't have to mess with any of that. Also you won't have to store it and buy new batteries for it every 3 years. Just sit on the couch drinking a cold one.

slomo said:

A tire shop will identify any rim issues. It wasn't that expensive to have them toss in a couple tubes and some tire sealant on my mower. Better than airing up tires every mow.

Sounds like you've possibly stretched the beads out and won't stay on the rim??. Tires are junk. Hard to tell from what you relay to us. Maybe it's time for a lawn crew if funds are too tight to maintain the mower? Do a cost analysis. Price of mower, blades, belts, spindles, oil, gasoline, air filters, fuel filters and maybe an oil filter. Have a lawn crew do it. You won't have to mess with any of that. Also you won't have to store it and buy new batteries for it every 3 years. Just sit on the couch drinking a cold one.

Click to expand...

Well slomo, I'd have to say that the tires are good quality since they are the original 9 year old tires. I never had a problem with the other three, just this one and I think I probably glanced a barrier breaking the bead to cause the first flat. After that I probably pumped it back up and got some dirt in the bead. After that I possibly damaged (stretched) the tire taking it off and putting it back on. So, the bead was fixed and the tire just wasn't tight on the rim like before.

I still have the original battery although its days must be numbered. I even go to the shed and charge it in the winter. Original belts on it too. I bought one set of blades and I sharpen the set I take off and put on the other set when I lift it up to clean the deck. I have never bought more than one extra blade or set of blades for any mower I've owned. I got over 20 years out of my first mower, a walk behind Snapper. My chain saw and blower/vac are easily 30 years old and work just fine. I am on my third string trimmer. Not bad for 45 years of lawn care (personal use only). I did buy a cheap Husqvarna to mow my ditches. That's 9 years old too but I abuse it with the type of work it has to do so it is not going to break any records for longevity, but I expect that. That blade brake and clutch cable already needed replacement in 9 short years .

So, in short, my cost analysis has me working hard but well ahead of the financial curve. There will be a day soon where I will not have the strength to do my own stuff and then I'll get the pros involved.

You say:
There will be a day soon where I will not have the strength to do my own stuff and then I'll get the pros involved.

You might keep a ear and eye open.
I've heard of robot mowers, vacuum cleaners and EV's that drive themselves.
Using AI.

I recently heard AI mentioned on news. I thought they were referring to Artificial Insemination of robots and lawn mowers.

MParr said:

What’s causing the problem? Under inflated or flat? Bad rim? Tire worn out?

Click to expand...

How I fixed my dry rot tires issues on my small tractor was to add a product called Ride-on. No more unexpected and sudden deflation, and it doesn’t rust the rim. https://www.ride-on.com/

bodean said:

How I fixed my dry rot tires issues on my small tractor was to add a product called Ride-on. No more unexpected and sudden deflation, and it doesn’t rust the rim. https://www.ride-on.com/

Click to expand...

Looks like the same stuff my tire shop used in my tires. Came in a one gallon jug. Different brand though. Not supposed to rust the rim deal.

If the bead is compromised, time to replace. 9 years old and falling off the rim.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

Had similar problems with a tyre deflating unexpectedly on a number of occasions a few years back. Took it to my local tyre dealer who checked for leaks etc with no problems found. He said that older tyres can develop microleaks (these were 8-10 years old). Bought two new good quality tyres (no tube, same rims using 13-15 psi) with no problems since!

And a left field one here.
How are the caster bearings and the yoke ?
The yokes on ZTR's often get bent to funny angles ( they are not exactly strait to start with ) and this allows them to rotate easily off the ground but prevents then rotating on the ground which puts too much side force on the tyre causing it to roll off the rim
I inflate the caster wheels to 20psi on everything
Fitting a strait treaded tyre seems to work a lot better than the smooth tyres fitted to most ZTR's

Big-Rich said:

Now that I recall that, I bet I stretched the tire when I removed it to clean up the rim and tire mating surface. If that's true, I'm wondering if the tire sealant will make up for the stretching? I now see that "X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer" comes in three different thicknesses 14-101, 14-101A, and 14-101B.

Click to expand...

I seriously seriously seriously doubt you can "stretch" a tire.

As others have pointed out when a tubeless tire comes off the rim it is due to lack of inflation, or the rim has rusted to nothing. I think you are losing air. Might bandaid with Slime. 9 years you say? Time for new tires.

And a left field one here.
How are the caster bearings and the yoke ?
The yokes on ZTR's often get bent to funny angles ( they are not exactly strait to start with ) and this allows them to rotate easily off the ground but prevents then rotating on the ground which puts too much side force on the tyre causing it to roll off the rim
I inflate the caster wheels to 20psi on everything
Fitting a ribbed treaded tyre seems to work a lot better than the smooth tyres fitted to most ZTR's

GrumpyCat said:

I seriously seriously seriously doubt you can "stretch" a tire.

As others have pointed out when a tubeless tire comes off the rim it is due to lack of inflation, or the rim has rusted to nothing. I think you are losing air. Might bandaid with Slime. 9 years you say? Time for new tires.

Click to expand...

While stretching a tyre is difficult, tearing the reinforcing cords inside the bead is very common on small diameter tyres

bertsmobile1 said:

While stretching a tyre is difficult, tearing the reinforcing cords inside the bead is very common on small diameter tyres

Click to expand...

This. Bert called this one.

If a tire is not installed properly you can break the cords that support the bead. Replace the tire with a new one and this time let the bead go down into the center of the rim during installation. No amount of sealant will help.

ChrisBFRPKY said:

This. Bert called this one.

If a tire is not installed properly you can break the cords that support the bead. Replace the tire with a new one and this time let the bead go down into the center of the rim during installation. No amount of sealant will help.

Click to expand...

29 posts (didn’t read all). Inflate tire, use liquid soap and water in spray bottle and spray tire. Identify leak. Repair.

Having this rim issue for years probably says rusted out rims and definitely used up dry rotted tires.

Tires need replacing. End of story.

Too many posts to address individually but thanks to all.

I have said several times that the tire was holding pressure and I checked it often. Everyone that suggests the soapy water check... Done and done. NOT A SLOW LEAK, it pops off the bead.

I installed a tube yesterday and I am done troubleshooting unless and until it reoccurs. At that point I will consider new tires.

Big-Rich said:

I installed a tube yesterday and I am done troubleshooting unless and until it reoccurs

Click to expand...

Why the new tube if no leaks are found? Waste of money from my computer chair.

Remember when it was new, tires never fell off the rims? Now you add in 9 plus year old tires and a ton of wear on that machine. Baby needs a new pair of shoes.

slomo said:

Why the new tube if no leaks are found? Waste of money from my computer chair.

Remember when it was new, tires never fell off the rims? Now you add in 9 plus year old tires and a ton of wear on that machine. Baby needs a new pair of shoes.

Click to expand...

In my opinion, the tube will keep the tire from coming off the bead.

It is coming off because of many factors. Could be the yokes as 'bertsmobile1' suggested. The way it's occurring, my best guess is that the tire is OLD (I agree 100%) and when it's torqued by some side-ward or twisting pressure it lets go just enough for the air to escape suddenly. It shows no sign of dry rot, pitting, or rust.

I have an old wheel barrow which has a dry rotted tire. I could see the air coming from the tiny cracks in its sidewall when I held it under water. I put a tube in it a few years ago and it is fine.

I'd imagine the tube is exerting even pressure throughout the inside of the tire and all will be OK, both mower and wheel barrow.

If I'm wrong I will find out and I'll let you know.

I told a guy awhile back that I could see the AIR inside his front tires on a small tractor.
He just smiled and said I've never heard that one but they do look bad, but they are foam filled.

The foam was what I was seeing in between the rubber cracks.

Forest#2 said:

I told a guy awhile back that I could see the AIR inside his front tires on a small tractor.
He just smiled and said I've never heard that one but they do look bad, but they are foam filled.

The foam was what I was seeing in between the rubber cracks.

Click to expand...

Hahaha. OK, I could not "see the air coming from the tiny cracks in its sidewall". I saw the effect of the air escaping the tire by the bubbles that were formed and deduced that air was the cause.

BigRich, you came to this forum for advice from the experienced techs, but then you poo, poo what advice you are given. The pros responding have given you the solutions they have found through years of experience, not guesses. They see this problem too many times each season and but one has said they had one time a tire came off the rim when it was inflated properly. You have an old tire which looses pressure during normal operation, due to a slow leak either at the rim which may be bent or from a dry rot crack opening and closing during operation. How you proceed is up to you, but I think you had you mind made up before starting this thread. You just wanted someone to validate your assumption. Time for me to say “Yes dear” and go out to my shop. Bye.

Rivets said:

BigRich, you came to this forum for advice from the experienced techs, but then you poo, poo what advice you are given. The pros responding have given you the solutions they have found through years of experience, not guesses. They see this problem too many times each season and but one has said they had one time a tire came off the rim when it was inflated properly. You have an old tire which looses pressure during normal operation, due to a slow leak either at the rim which may be bent or from a dry rot crack opening and closing during operation. How you proceed is up to you, but I think you had you mind made up before starting this thread. You just wanted someone to validate your assumption. Time for me to say “Yes dear” and go out to my shop. Bye.

Click to expand...

Not true, I did not have my mind made up when I joined this forum. I actually got my suggested solution from this thread. My original thought was to use X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer as you can see from my original post.

'slomo' said "Take it to a car tire shop. Call prior to make sure they have new tires in your size and maybe tubes as well".

I took it to the shop where I bought the mower and they put in the tube which works with my tire/rim.

Reading what the pros input changed my mind and I thanked everyone very politely. Sorry if you took it the wrong way.

Big-Rich said:

Not true, I did not have my mind made up when I joined this forum. I actually got my suggested solution from this thread. My original thought was to use X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer as you can see from my original post.

'slomo' said "Take it to a car tire shop. Call prior to make sure they have new tires in your size and maybe tubes as well".

I took it to the shop where I bought the mower and they put in the tube which works with my tire/rim.

Reading what the pros input changed my mind and I thanked everyone very politely. Sorry if you took it the wrong way.

Click to expand...

It's all good. Get the tires fixed and slay some grass.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

$132 and under for a set of tires on Amazon

I would never use the green slime product but I have used a product called Flatout with great success.. Check out the literature. I purchase it on Amazon..It has Kevlar fibers in it and it is all the Military uses on everything that rolls.

Big-Rich said:

Thank you MParr and Rivets.

I do keep the tire pressure monitored and it is not leaking. It's good when I start mowing and at some point, POP, it's off the rim! I am 300 pounds and I'm sure that doesn't help.

I did have a bead leak in that tire a few years back, I almost forgot about it. At that time I did the soapy water squirt and saw the tiny bubbles.

Now that I recall that, I bet I stretched the tire when I removed it to clean up the rim and tire mating surface. If that's true, I'm wondering if the tire sealant will make up for the stretching? I now see that "X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer" comes in three different thicknesses 14-101, 14-101A, and 14-101B.

I wouldn't go through all this if the replacement tires weren't so crazy expensive. Part # 600692 (tire only) goes for $150.00. Even substitute tires are over a hundred bucks. You'd think this was a car.

Anyone find a suitable tube for this size and rim type?

Click to expand...

My experience with tubes in a zero turn has been less than stellar. Too much sheer between tire and tube, especially on left side tire. A tube will get you going again for a while, but not a long term fix for this application.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

Does it come off when you making a turn on a inclined?

bertsmobile1 said:

While stretching a tyre is difficult, tearing the reinforcing cords inside the bead is very common on small diameter tyres

Click to expand...

So how much tear of the cords before the rubber holding air separates and lets the air out?

I don't think it can be much.

A tube will not keep a tire on the rim if it is "stretched" (if stretching is even possible) because the stretched tire no longer fits the rim.

The O.P. needs new tires.

bbirder said:

I would never use the green slime product but I have used a product called Flatout with great success.. Check out the literature. I purchase it on Amazon..It has Kevlar fibers in it and it is all the Military uses on everything that rolls.

Click to expand...

The military I knew didn't slime any tire. They were all too new to have problems or were blown up by IED's.

Big-Rich said:

You may be jumping to conclusions Forest#2 . I am also 6'8" tall. That's me on the Hustler in my Avatar. I had to buy handle extensions to fit my legs under the steering arms. Yes, I could use to lose a few, but it ain't what it seems.

For what it's worth, I do have a push mower that I use in the ditches they have around my house. North Carolina's solution to drainage, but you won't catch me out there with the temps in the 90's and me in my mid 70's doing the rest of the property without a riding mower.

It is the rear tire. I check the tire pressure regularly. Hustler calls for between 10 and 12 PSI. I have a measurement between the mower frame and the floor so I'd notice even a slight loss of air pressure. It isn't tire pressure, it just goes pop. I fill it back up and it's good to go for at least a few mowings.

I'd certainly go for a inner tube before investing in solid tires. Solid tires in that size would be very expensive, if they even make them.

Small correction, the manual calls for between 8 and 12 psi, I keep it between 10 and 12.

Here's an excerpt from the manual:
----------------------
It is important for level mowing that the tires have the same
amount of air pressure. The recommended pressures are:
Drive wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-12 psi (55-83 KPa)
Front wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-12 psi (55-83 KPa)

Click to expand...

I would guess the bead has been stretched at some position and just keeps creeping until it slips off the rim.

Hey there big guy no pun intended , I have a question when tire came off the first time had you inspected the rim you stated that it comes off in hard areas like drive way ,is there a slice on lip of tire ,you could try turning tire inward or as you said try shaping tires side to side ,but I'm thinking rim is the issue.good luck.

Thank you all again.

At this point I'm at a 'wait and see' phase but I did take note of the tire pair on Amazon for $132.99 ($142.30 after tax plus mounting). I don't think I want to try mounting them myself if I may have caused this issue with my lack of proper tools.

"Wait and see" for me could be a long time if the tube helps at all. The original problem was intermittent.

jimsrigged said:

Hey there big guy no pun intended , I have a question when tire came off the first time had you inspected the rim you stated that it comes off in hard areas like drive way ,is there a slice on lip of tire ,you could try turning tire inward or as you said try shaping tires side to side ,but I'm thinking rim is the issue.good luck.

Click to expand...

I did inspect the bead and rim the first few times and I'm pretty sure I introduced some debris the second time I worked on it. I took it to the shop where I bought the mower for the tube installation. I don't know, but he probably looked the rim and tire over while he was inserting the tube for me.

I've had the same thing... Fix a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tyre when partially deflated, tighten it down so it's snug and spray a bit of lubricant around the beads on both sides, inflate the tyre to recommended pressure... The ratchet strap causes the beads to push outwards against the rim as far as they'll go, might only be a few extra millimeters, but that'll make all the difference.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

Try using an inner tube.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

Put an inner tube in it.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

Bead sealant or belt dressing should be ok. Are you able to fit a tube, problem solved.

Any solid tire options?

Innertube was my first thought. Keep it simple. good luck

I had a similar problem on a Ferris Zero Turn 44 inch mower, but with the front wheels. My problem came from sideways forces pushing the tire from the rim and breaking the bead loose. You may need to examine your mowing process/ habits. Are you contacting curbs that is pushing on the side of the tires? Are there lots of obstacles in the lawn that could exert sideways forces on the tire? Mowing across a slope instead of up and down? If you are trying to mow as close as you can to reduce the trimming, you may be making contact with things, causing forces on the side of the tire that separates the bead from the rim. Make sure your tire is fully inflated, but don't exceed the maximum pressure allowed. A last ditch effort would be to fill the tire with foam, but that makes for much more work (and expense) when the tire needs to be replaced. The inner tube is probably the best suggestion of your tire is in good enough shape that it doesn't need replacement.

Forest#2 said:

You might try putting a tube in it.
If that don't work out for you, get a push mower that has solid rubber tires (no air) and it will help you lose some of the excess weight that you mentioned you probably need to lose.
Most generally when a tire is bead is coming loose the tire is under inflated.

Is this the front tire or rear tire?

Click to expand...

YUP just clean the tire and the inside of the Rim (remove any weld slag) install the tube donnnnnne......!

I agree to the 15psi. for both Rear Tires. Too much sealer can be slippery and it is also possible that the tire Bead has broken or weakened. Unlikely but have you checked the tire Size with the opposite side? Try rotating them from side to side in case you are mowing one way on a slope that causes the Dismount. Good Luck.

iaff801 said:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

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$30 bucks, for a tube?

The guy has 9 plus year old weather cracked dry rotted bead compromised tires. They are used smooth up people. Rim bead condition is unknown as well.

My thinking on this may be off, but without concrete knowledge of exactly why the bead is popping off; with a tube is there not a risk of the bead popping off and shearing the tube valve stem?

When a tire gets older it weakens and what possibly occurs is your weight combined with a turn cause the tire to come away from the rim slightly, then lose air pressure and while going forward it rolls the tire of the rim. The reason is a zero turn while turning exerts a sideways pressure on the rim/tire. Yor weigh adds to this side pressure. The only solutions are to air it to a higher pressure, fill with a compound to make it solid, or use a tube.
Below is one way to fill a tire with foam but you would need to research it thoroughly if you did this. Like for instance the amount of weight it would carry etc.

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

I don't know if you have resolved this but go for the tubes, can pick them up at tractor supply for around $15. I have a old riding mower and the tires dry rotted and leaked air-installed tubes and it took care of it. If I remember right they lasted about 5 yrs and had to do it again but it beats buying new tires....

It helps a great deal to turn these mowers the way you’re suppose to.I know I’m guilty of speed mowing myself. A tell tale sign is ripping up lawn while turning Especially in wet conditions. If you’re ripping tires off the rim imagine the pressure you’re putting on the axles et.

B

Big-Rich said:

I have a 48" Hustler Raptor SD for 9 years and over the past few years the rear tire comes off the rim, rarely but a total nuisance when it does.

I have cleaned the bead but it still happens.

I plan to pick up some bead sealant (X-Tra Seal Tire Bead Sealer 14-101) but I know that is really for pitted rims and not for tires coming off the bead.

Has anyone had this problem and, if so, what did you do to fix it? If you have had this issue, did bead sealant work for you?

I'm hoping the bead sealant has strong enough adhesive that it will act like a sort of glue and not just a gap filler.

Click to expand...

ig Ritch,
I have 48" Grasshopper and (almost same) problem a few times a year. I catch it before it comes off.
I find the problem occurs if I mow in very rough terrain. Putting more than I should sideways strain on always the same wheel. I have also caused the problem if I rub tire against a curb.
Yea, I can hear, "what an idiot".
First time it happened, I did the soapy water test more than once!
I agree that the tube is a good answer. No, I look on line for a tube after it happens and promise to look again "tomorrow".
I have bar tires on the machine, and some one once told they may be part of the problem. ie. a bar easily snags on something-rim keeps turning and tire stops, allowing the air to escape. Only takes one second to dump 10 pounds of air.
I wish I had the perfect answer.
Good luck.

13brian said:

My thinking on this may be off, but without concrete knowledge of exactly why the bead is popping off; with a tube is there not a risk of the bead popping off and shearing the tube valve stem?

Click to expand...

If it pops off again with the tube in it, I wasted $27.00 on a tube and will then opt for new tires.

I am a homeowner and the mower is garage kept. The tires are not apparently dry rotted and pass the underwater test but 9 years is a long time even if it's shelf life.

gab said:

B

ig Ritch,
I have 48" Grasshopper and (almost same) problem a few times a year. I catch it before it comes off.
I find the problem occurs if I mow in very rough terrain. Putting more than I should sideways strain on always the same wheel. I have also caused the problem if I rub tire against a curb.
Yea, I can hear, "what an idiot".
First time it happened, I did the soapy water test more than once!
I agree that the tube is a good answer. No, I look on line for a tube after it happens and promise to look again "tomorrow".
I have bar tires on the machine, and some one once told they may be part of the problem. ie. a bar easily snags on something-rim keeps turning and tire stops, allowing the air to escape. Only takes one second to dump 10 pounds of air.
I wish I had the perfect answer.
Good luck.

Click to expand...

I agree gab.

What you describe as "sideways strain" is quite plausible. I have stated that I am 300 lbs. and if I add that to the sideways torque, the age of the tires and rubbing against a barrier at times (I have steel borders [not plastic] around flower plots, the front shrubs and around the whole house), it adds up to a good possibility in my humble opinion.

Good luck with your "pop-offs" too. By the way, my tire is always the one that goes against the borders, the left rear.

Big-Rich said:

If it pops off again with the tube in it, I wasted $27.00 on a tube and will then opt for new tires.

I am a homeowner and the mower is garage kept. The tires are not apparently dry rotted and pass the underwater test but 9 years is a long time even if it's shelf life.

Click to expand...

Thanks Big-Rich, cogent reasoning for sure. My query was mostly about the advice given, not your decision. It was just what popped into my head at start of discussion. I hope you'll update the thread after use and if anything changes, I am curious to know how this goes and if you ever find root cause. Great thread here, I appreciate all of the input from everyone.

13brian said:

Thanks Big-Rich, cogent reasoning for sure. My query was mostly about the advice given, not your decision. It was just what popped into my head at start of discussion. I hope you'll update the thread after use and if anything changes, I am curious to know how this goes and if you ever find root cause. Great thread here, I appreciate all of the input from everyone.

Click to expand...

I will certainly update the thread if the problem reoccurs. Keep in mind that I only mow once a week and the original problem was intermittent so it could fail tomorrow or could last the season (especially if the tube does the trick).

The problem did not occur the last time I mowed and I put a tube in after that (7/26/23). Tomorrow is the first mowing with the tube in the tire. Right now it is holding air while it is sitting in the shed.