Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it?

[Dixie Boosh Wookie]

Angle grinder. Hang it on a nail.

 

[pollishpickle]

I use my belt sander to get the blade nice and striaght

 

[Have_Blue]

I’ve seen ads for blade sharpening tools and such, I used to use a bench grinder to sharpen them until I got an angle grinder. I’ve been using that, but I feel like there is a better way to get a flat edge with a consistent angle. Any opinion on drill mounted sharpeners? Perhaps ya’ll have or use something else? Any way to speed this up?

There's more overthinking that goes on for blade sharpening than anything else having to do with mowers. Truly, it's the most trivial thing. Gadgets just hold you back. The blade edge can curve back to the trailing edge as the blade wears.

The BEST way to sharpen a blade is always the fastest way. That's usually with an angle grinder, with a bench grinder being just as good but slower. (a belt sander is *really best, but you don't have one) *Sharpen the blades following the factory angle, about 30 Deg. *Get the edges sharp, but not even close to shaving sharp. *Avoid annealing the edges, which will turn blue. NOTHING IS CRITICAL. If it takes you more than 4 minutes per blade, you are wasting time and metal.

 

[Have_Blue]

"Too sharp" will soon become "butter knife sharp". I'm not going to worry about it, but am not going to break out the whetstone to be able to shave with my mower blades.

True, but only after 5 minutes of mowing.

On a dark night, you can see a glow coming off the cutting edge as it cuts, so extra sharp does no good in all that mayhem.

 

[PGB1]

I'm no pro, but I set the tool rest on the bench grinder to the angle that I want the blade edge and use a 150 grit aluminum oxide stone. I also have a tray of water at the grinder so that I can keep the blade cool in order to protect its temper. When done, a couple of swipes on a honing stone removes the burr.

For balancing, I go low-tech. Holding a round shank screwdriver or piece of plain rod, I lay the blade centered on the rod. If it balances: Good enough!

To prevent grass from sticking, I wipe with lanolin. The lanolin won't harm the plants if any falls off. Fluid Film is sold as a rust preventative. It's lanolin. I also do the bottom the mower, as well as the edger housing and blade for easy cleanup.
Paul

 

[slomo]

The lanolin won't harm the plants if any falls off.

Which never happens.

Used motor oil slathered under the deck works like a charm. Great way to recycle.

 

[Skippydiesel]

How many of you have actually made comparative observations of before blade sharpening & after:

• How does your lawn look
• How hard did your mower work

My bet - you will not be able to tell the difference and if you imagine you can, it will be minimal.

Reality -

• There is no doubt that the mower will not have to work as hard with sharp blades.
• Countering the above - the bladed loose their edge quickly - rate will depend on soil & grass type - thus loosing any engine/fuel consumption benefit.
• Grass health - Grasses have for the most part evolved to be eaten by grazing animals, that do not shear of the grass nearly as cleanly as a blunt mower blade - no health benefit.
• Only mowers that use a shearing mechanism, ie moving blade against stationery surface (drum/reciprocating) get a significant benefit from sharpening.

 

[bullet bob]

How many of you have actually made comparative observations of before blade sharpening & after:

• How does your lawn look
• How hard did your mower work

My bet - you will not be able to tell the difference and if you imagine you can, it will be minimal.

Reality -

• There is no doubt that the mower will not have to work as hard with sharp blades.
• Countering the above - the bladed loose their edge quickly - rate will depend on soil & grass type - thus loosing any engine/fuel consumption benefit.
• Grass health - Grasses have for the most part evolved to be eaten by grazing animals, that do not shear of the grass nearly as cleanly as a blunt mower blade - no health benefit.
• Only mowers that use a shearing mechanism, ie moving blade against stationery surface (drum/reciprocating) get a significant benefit from sharpening.

Ah c'mon. It makes me feel good. Kinda like waxing a car, it doesn't go any faster or get better mileage but I feel it does.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Those using the bench grinder need to dress the stone occasionally to keep it sharp . Those stones that are hardest need to be dressed more often than a softer stone .

So why don't we dress the Rt angle grinder . Because of the manufacturing process that dressing isn't needed . It's a softer stone that breaks down easier therefore staying sharp .

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I use my belt sander to get the blade nice and striaght

Do you use an abrasive for steel { if there is one for steel } or the one for wood ?