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Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it?
#1
AllisChalmersForever1901
AllisChalmersForever1901
#4
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
For those that have and use a bench grinder .
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In what way should grindstones employed in abrasive working be chosen? The types and classifications of grindstones are extraordinarily numerous; mistaking the selection method not only renders the job inefficient, but is sure to invite cost increases and degradation in the accuracy of the...
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#5
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
#8
7394
7394
#14
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
#15
AllisChalmersForever1901
AllisChalmersForever1901
#21
Dixie Boosh Wookie
Dixie Boosh Wookie
#24
H
Have_Blue
On a dark night, you can see a glow coming off the cutting edge as it cuts, so extra sharp does no good in all that mayhem.
H
Have_Blue
True, but only after 5 minutes of mowing.
On a dark night, you can see a glow coming off the cutting edge as it cuts, so extra sharp does no good in all that mayhem.
#27
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
How many of you have actually made comparative observations of before blade sharpening & after:
Reality -
- How does your lawn look
- How hard did your mower work
Reality -
- There is no doubt that the mower will not have to work as hard with sharp blades.
- Countering the above - the bladed loose their edge quickly - rate will depend on soil & grass type - thus loosing any engine/fuel consumption benefit.
- Grass health - Grasses have for the most part evolved to be eaten by grazing animals, that do not shear of the grass nearly as cleanly as a blunt mower blade - no health benefit.
- Only mowers that use a shearing mechanism, ie moving blade against stationery surface (drum/reciprocating) get a significant benefit from sharpening.
#28
B
bullet bob
B
bullet bob
Ah c'mon. It makes me feel good. Kinda like waxing a car, it doesn't go any faster or get better mileage but I feel it does.How many of you have actually made comparative observations of before blade sharpening & after:
My bet - you will not be able to tell the difference and if you imagine you can, it will be minimal.
- How does your lawn look
- How hard did your mower work
Reality -
- There is no doubt that the mower will not have to work as hard with sharp blades.
- Countering the above - the bladed loose their edge quickly - rate will depend on soil & grass type - thus loosing any engine/fuel consumption benefit.
- Grass health - Grasses have for the most part evolved to be eaten by grazing animals, that do not shear of the grass nearly as cleanly as a blunt mower blade - no health benefit.
- Only mowers that use a shearing mechanism, ie moving blade against stationery surface (drum/reciprocating) get a significant benefit from sharpening.
#31
Tool_Maker_Tim
Tool_Maker_Tim
#32
stevestd
stevestd
A (bench) belt sander is easy to use leaving a smooth finish compared to other methods used. The rounded end on the sander can also be used for curved blades. Buy a dedicated balancer if you are serious about blade balance. You don’t see a tyre (tire) fitter not balancing a new tyre on a car, which doesn’t spin as fast as a mower blade. I guess that the heavier and longer the blade, the higher the necessity for correct blade balance.
#35
S
Skippydiesel
You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!
Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost.
S
Skippydiesel
Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words
You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!
Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost.
#36
Tool_Maker_Tim
Tool Maker Tim served a four-year apprenticeship and has forty-plus years of experience as a Tool Maker, friend. So Skippy, now you know!
"You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!"
Profound observation. Okay, no argument from me there!
"Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost."
Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things! The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?
I use an angle grinder with a flap wheel (36 grit, if I'm not mistaken), and it cuts well. I still grind my twist drills by hand, with a drill point gauge to keep me honest. For that matter, doing your Small engine repair sucks much of the time. There is no sensible reason to keep wrenching, except that it keeps me interested, and it occupies the place in my mind that was formerly the home of Injection molds and progressive dies. Lastly, I do not claim to be a professional small engine mechanic, more along the lines of "Shade Tree" at best. But as long as I have customer bringing me their tools, I suppose that I'm good enough! Yes, I'm (or was) a damned Cracker Jack Too Maker! That's something I'm pretty proud of! Have a good day there, Skippy!
Tool_Maker_Tim
"Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words""Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words
You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!
Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost".
Tool Maker Tim served a four-year apprenticeship and has forty-plus years of experience as a Tool Maker, friend. So Skippy, now you know!
"You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!"
Profound observation. Okay, no argument from me there!
"Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost."
Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things! The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?
I use an angle grinder with a flap wheel (36 grit, if I'm not mistaken), and it cuts well. I still grind my twist drills by hand, with a drill point gauge to keep me honest. For that matter, doing your Small engine repair sucks much of the time. There is no sensible reason to keep wrenching, except that it keeps me interested, and it occupies the place in my mind that was formerly the home of Injection molds and progressive dies. Lastly, I do not claim to be a professional small engine mechanic, more along the lines of "Shade Tree" at best. But as long as I have customer bringing me their tools, I suppose that I'm good enough! Yes, I'm (or was) a damned Cracker Jack Too Maker! That's something I'm pretty proud of! Have a good day there, Skippy!
#37
Tool_Maker_Tim
Tool_Maker_Tim
#39
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
Hi TMT,
"Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things!"
In a slasher type mower (high speed blades rotating in a horizontal plain) the blades cut by impact/penetration. Every impact takes energy/power. The sharper the blade the less energy (fuel consumption) is required. Due to the high speed of the blades the difference in energy required to cut the sward between a sharp & a dull/blunt blade is minimal and the "quality" of the cut differs little.
Suggestions that the sharp cut damages the grass less is fanciful at best. Most grasses have evolved to not be unduly impacted by grazing animals that tend to tear the grass (not shear it of cleanly).
The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more.
Sharpening is a feel good exercise - do it if it gives you satisfaction or if your customer wants it done.
Drum style mowers, use a diffrent cutting process - the grass is cut by being sheared between a stationary surface & a moving blade - in this instance sharp blades make a considerable difference to both efficiency/speed & quality of cut. The need for regular sharpening of blades, adjustment and cost has seen the move away from this type of mower except for very highly manicured laws eg golf greens
"The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?"
All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder
"Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things!"
In a slasher type mower (high speed blades rotating in a horizontal plain) the blades cut by impact/penetration. Every impact takes energy/power. The sharper the blade the less energy (fuel consumption) is required. Due to the high speed of the blades the difference in energy required to cut the sward between a sharp & a dull/blunt blade is minimal and the "quality" of the cut differs little.
Suggestions that the sharp cut damages the grass less is fanciful at best. Most grasses have evolved to not be unduly impacted by grazing animals that tend to tear the grass (not shear it of cleanly).
The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more.
Sharpening is a feel good exercise - do it if it gives you satisfaction or if your customer wants it done.
Drum style mowers, use a diffrent cutting process - the grass is cut by being sheared between a stationary surface & a moving blade - in this instance sharp blades make a considerable difference to both efficiency/speed & quality of cut. The need for regular sharpening of blades, adjustment and cost has seen the move away from this type of mower except for very highly manicured laws eg golf greens
"The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?"
All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder
#40
Tool_Maker_Tim
"The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more."
I would argue that the increased fuel consumption with a dull blade would be negligible. That might be worth setting up a controlled experiment, just to find the answer. Physics dictates that you are correct, but to what degree? I have a John Deere LX288 Lawn Tractor and a Cub Cadet LTX1050 Lawn Tractor (both machines have blades of similar condition, as in sharpening time is just around the corner). My John Deere is, without a doubt, the smoothest infernal combustion engine (concerning Lawn-care machines) that I have had the pleasure of operating. However, when it comes to cutting grass, nothing beats my Cub (a non-scientific opinion). Is this because the Cub has three mowing blades, and the John Deere has just two? What do you think?
"All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder"
Yes, I must concur! Rather rude of me to ignore an alternative point of view! Eating my own words is akin to dining on fried liver and washing it down with Pepto-Bismol! Thank you for your insights, sir.
Tool_Maker_Tim
A well-considered and intelligent response, sir! I tip my hat to you!Hi TMT,
"Hold on a second there, Skippy! There are those of us in society who are not content to just settle for the basic explanations of life. Many want to know the mechanics of how things work, why a blade cuts, etc. I confess that I am one of those people!! I enjoy a challenge and an opportunity to learn new things!"
In a slasher type mower (high speed blades rotating in a horizontal plain) the blades cut by impact/penetration. Every impact takes energy/power. The sharper the blade the less energy (fuel consumption) is required. Due to the high speed of the blades the difference in energy required to cut the sward between a sharp & a dull/blunt blade is minimal and the "quality" of the cut differs little.
Suggestions that the sharp cut damages the grass less is fanciful at best. Most grasses have evolved to not be unduly impacted by grazing animals that tend to tear the grass (not shear it of cleanly).
The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more.
Sharpening is a feel good exercise - do it if it gives you satisfaction or if your customer wants it done.
Drum style mowers, use a diffrent cutting process - the grass is cut by being sheared between a stationary surface & a moving blade - in this instance sharp blades make a considerable difference to both efficiency/speed & quality of cut. The need for regular sharpening of blades, adjustment and cost has seen the move away from this type of mower except for very highly manicured laws eg golf greens
"The title of the thread is: Tips for blade sharpening, how do ya’ll do it? The author of the thread didn't ask for the feasibility of sharpening blades, but rather, he was searching for knowledge! You don't mind if some folks color outside of the lines occasionally, now do you?"
All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder
"The operator of the mower might like to compare the cost of sharpening (labour/time & accelerated loss of blade material) with the cost of additional fuel consumed by blunt blades - the sharpening will cost more."
I would argue that the increased fuel consumption with a dull blade would be negligible. That might be worth setting up a controlled experiment, just to find the answer. Physics dictates that you are correct, but to what degree? I have a John Deere LX288 Lawn Tractor and a Cub Cadet LTX1050 Lawn Tractor (both machines have blades of similar condition, as in sharpening time is just around the corner). My John Deere is, without a doubt, the smoothest infernal combustion engine (concerning Lawn-care machines) that I have had the pleasure of operating. However, when it comes to cutting grass, nothing beats my Cub (a non-scientific opinion). Is this because the Cub has three mowing blades, and the John Deere has just two? What do you think?
"All true however I draw your attention to your own words "...he was searching for knowledge!" - I have provided an opinion that he (others) may like to ponder"
Yes, I must concur! Rather rude of me to ignore an alternative point of view! Eating my own words is akin to dining on fried liver and washing it down with Pepto-Bismol! Thank you for your insights, sir.
#41
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
Sir! You are both a gentleman & a scholar - you flatter me.
"Is this because the Cub has three mowing blades, and the John Deere has just two? What do you think?"
Speculation:
Depends on what you mean by blades.
Two cutting heads will have 4 blades (even if its a single part, each blade has two cutting edges). Three heads, 6 blades.
To give a nice even cut, the cutting arks must overlap slightly - its much easier to achieve this with three cutting heads, than with two.
Assuming the same mowing width for both mowers;
The two cutting heads blades are having to do more work on every rotation than the 3 heads.
Given the better overlap of the 3 heads, you will likly get a better more consistent finish or your lawn.
At a given speed, the three head mower is less likly to get "bogged down"
The Cub may also get away with a slightly less powerful engine.
"Is this because the Cub has three mowing blades, and the John Deere has just two? What do you think?"
Speculation:
Depends on what you mean by blades.
Two cutting heads will have 4 blades (even if its a single part, each blade has two cutting edges). Three heads, 6 blades.
To give a nice even cut, the cutting arks must overlap slightly - its much easier to achieve this with three cutting heads, than with two.
Assuming the same mowing width for both mowers;
The two cutting heads blades are having to do more work on every rotation than the 3 heads.
Given the better overlap of the 3 heads, you will likly get a better more consistent finish or your lawn.
At a given speed, the three head mower is less likly to get "bogged down"
The Cub may also get away with a slightly less powerful engine.
#42
Tool_Maker_Tim
Tool_Maker_Tim
#43
Tool_Maker_Tim
Tool_Maker_Tim
I, by nature, am a kinesthetic learner. A kinesthetic learner is someone who learns best through physical activity and hands-on experiences. Keeping that in mind, the only way that I know to improve on my grinding skills is to grind something......a lot! It's the same way a musician gets to Carnegie Hall.......Practice, practice, practice! Take a piece of like material (Tool steel for tool steel) and grind it. It's not easy, but if you endeavor to persevere, you will improve!Sorry Stevestd - no idea how Took MakerTims name got attached to your words
You only have to worry about blade balance, when you damage the blade OR sharpen it.
Can only try and avoid damage - S--t happens!
Sharpening is a deliberate choice, that you impose on yourself, for little gain & substantial cost.
#44
Tool_Maker_Tim
Tool_Maker_Tim
The Cub is a 50" cut, and the JD is a 42" cut. Additionally, the cub is rated as a 23 (tired) HP, and the JD is an 18 HP. Both are V-twins.Sir! You are both a gentleman & a scholar - you flatter me.
"Is this because the Cub has three mowing blades, and the John Deere has just two? What do you think?"
Speculation:
Depends on what you mean by blades.
Two cutting heads will have 4 blades (even if its a single part, each blade has two cutting edges). Three heads, 6 blades.
To give a nice even cut, the cutting arks must overlap slightly - its much easier to achieve this with three cutting heads, than with two.
Assuming the same mowing width for both mowers;
The two cutting heads blades are having to do more work on every rotation than the 3 heads.
Given the better overlap of the 3 heads, you will likly get a better more consistent finish or your lawn.
At a given speed, the three head mower is less likly to get "bogged down"
The Cub may also get away with a slightly less powerful engine.