Tight Crank on New 10HP Briggs Rod

[Scrubcadet10]

I just ordered and received another rod from Amazon. It fit perfectly and no binding after torqued to 100 in-lb.

Good rod casting: "MAG 5A", cap "8C"
Bad rod casting: "MAG 3A", cap "11C"

:thumbsup::banana::cool2::cool2::cool2::banana::drink:
Way to go!! Glad you got it figured out..
was the rod a different part number (im assuming so) than the first? or was just a good rod and you got a bad one..
as taryl would say
"Wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!"
https://youtu.be/q_DrnItIKwA?t=5010 :laughing:

 

[Go-Rebels]

was the rod a different part number (im assuming so) than the first? or was just a good rod and you got a bad one..

Exact same part number ordered but different casting numbers on the rod and cap after opening the box. I don't believe the casting numbers are a date code as there aren't enough digits to define a day/month/year for an entire year.

Another interesting point is that the journal surface of both the rod and cap appear shiny 'as cast.' I don't see any machining marks of any kind.

 

[Go-Rebels]

I spoke to a guy at work who is very knowledgeable about aluminum die casting. He tells me that the cap and rod are milled on the mating surfaces only. The cylindrical oil bearing surfaces are ‘as-cast’.

 

[Go-Rebels]

Follow up thread: "Rebuilt 10hp Briggs Won’t Start."

 

[Tinkerer200]

Hydrochloric acid is sold as Muriatic Acid in any farm store, or Walmart, or Pool supply store.

Yeah, I believe Muriatic is a cut version of Hydro--, used by brick masons to clean mortar off bricks.

Walt Conner

 

[Tinkerer200]

I need enough clearance to get the rod to spin on the crank when cold, and tightened to spec, else I obviously can't pull start the motor.

I'm not keen on shimming the rod cap. If after chemically cleaning he crank I'm still tight then I'll just send the crank back and order another.

I don't think you can shim that rod. I also think you have not cleaned all deposited metal from crank. Other wise. install and torque the rod cap bolts and have machine shop ream/bore polish rod to necessary ID.

Walt Conner

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yeah, I believe Muriatic is a cut version of Hydro--, used by brick masons to clean mortar off bricks.

Walt Conner

Muriatic Acid is the old name and generally used to describe the raw, unrefined solution.
Most of the muriatic acid is obtained as a by product from other processes so gets sold as Muriatic.
When actually made by reacting Hydrogen & Chlorine gasses then dissolving in distilled water is is called HCl and generally around 4 times the price.
Because it is usually a byproduct Muriatic is often a pale pink or green.

 

[Tinkerer200]

Muriatic Acid is the old name and generally used to describe the raw, unrefined solution.
Most of the muriatic acid is obtained as a by product from other processes so gets sold as Muriatic.
When actually made by reacting Hydrogen & Chlorine gasses then dissolving in distilled water is is called HCl and generally around 4 times the price.
Because it is usually a byproduct Muriatic is often a pale pink or green.

Maybe in Australia, clear color here and still called Muriatic on label.

Walt Conner