Tife chains

[icerabbit]

It has always been a struggle to put my craftsman chains on my craftsman mower. I had riding mower snow blower kit, with chains, wheel weights, ...

The only way I could make it work was with an abundance of zip ties and some copper wire. Copper wire twisted around a couple primary connections. Then twist ties to tighten it up as needed just right on both sides of the wheel, because if I didn't, in short order would wiggle and start hitting the mower frame ... and maybe lose a chain. It would take me a half hour per tire ... and I could swear they were the wrong chains and/or some inadequate design. But no, sears insisted that was the chain accessory for my mower tires.

Years later I put a second mower into winter duty with a small plow and its " universal " chains work a heck of a lot better. I would just secure the initial two connections with a couple zips and then run two or three bungee cords through the open side facing out, to tighten things neatly. Maybe 10 min per tire.

If anybody is considering the big snow blower and chains to clear snow around their property. I could only drive on asphalt pavement. As soon as I went on the lawn or a gravel road, to try to get around the house, or go to my like garden shed. I'd get stuck.

 

[Smithsonite]

We always used bungees on chains for the trash trucks I ran on a big city recycling route. They would be just enough to take the slack out of the chains. As long as you didn't curb them, they'd last quite a while. You have to get the correct length, and install them, preferably 2 of them, in opposing "V's" on each wheel.

 

[barny57]

Hey all,
Tire chains. How do you keep them on? 2006 cub cadet LT1040 Every time I plow some snow they "roll" over to one side of the tire or the other. Then back to the garage, jack up the back and move them to where they should be. It has happened since I first put them on. Tried crossed bungee cords and it helps a little. They are about as tight as I can get them and still be able to get them on.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Will

Let’s some air out of the tire put them on as tight as you can get it and fill the tire back up

 

[barny57]

It has always been a struggle to put my craftsman chains on my craftsman mower. I had riding mower snow blower kit, with chains, wheel weights, ...

The only way I could make it work was with an abundance of zip ties and some copper wire. Copper wire twisted around a couple primary connections. Then twist ties to tighten it up as needed just right on both sides of the wheel, because if I didn't, in short order would wiggle and start hitting the mower frame ... and maybe lose a chain. It would take me a half hour per tire ... and I could swear they were the wrong chains and/or some inadequate design. But no, sears insisted that was the chain accessory for my mower tires.

Years later I put a second mower into winter duty with a small plow and its " universal " chains work a heck of a lot better. I would just secure the initial two connections with a couple zips and then run two or three bungee cords through the open side facing out, to tighten things neatly. Maybe 10 min per tire.

If anybody is considering the big snow blower and chains to clear snow around their property. I could only drive on asphalt pavement. As soon as I went on the lawn or a gravel road, to try to get around the house, or go to my like garden shed. I'd get stuck.

 

[barny57]

you need more weight on your lawnmower do you know how much your tractor weighs? I have a 425 John Deere weighs about 1200 pounds with everything and I have no problem

 

[rdedrick]

They work the best when the outside circumference chain is down the sidewalls away from the treat. So the circumference is too small to go over the tread. If the chains were sized for a narrower tire they won't be able to do that.

 

[goodO1boydws]

Haven't you guys ever heard of tire-chain tensioners?
They last practically forever-on a riding mower.
The ones I'm talking about are made of rubber, although there ARE ones made with springs.
I like the rubber ones because you never have to worry about snagging a spring and having it stretch out far enough to get caught on things like yourself or a tire or the blades

They're like giant o rings about 1/4" in thickness that attach to ONE side of the tire chain-(attach to the short side sections of chain between the cross chains. They hold the rubber cord in place with clips that look sort of like a slightly opened numeral "8". One loop goes over the chain and the other lop goes over he rubber ring.

I've used the SAME PAIR of tensoners, with car tire chains, AND 25# wheel weights (EACH), on my rider- since 1997.
(I call where we live-in east Tenn. "Never-LEVEL-Land". Nuff said?)

Ive worn out 3 sets of tires, broke 2 wheels, but still have the same set of tensioners. .

Here's a link to one set of chains and one set of tensioners, your wheels may need a different size.

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

The CHAINS I got were rated for 13", 14" and some 15" car tires.
The TENSIONERS I got were rated for 13", 14" and 15" tire chains.
MY tires are rated at 23" high x 9.5" wide-on 12" diameter wheels, which used to be wider than many car tires of the same height. I needed to remove some links from the ends of the tire chain to reduce their length, and not have excess chain flopping around but its not a big deal-and the chain locks will still work without modification on shoprtened chains-no problem.


One tIp though,.
Many people never adjust their tire chains properly-which means as snugly as you can get them. This may require you to remove links from the chain ends as I did, and to possibly make a few extra clips for the tensioners out of a stiff wire, but its not a big deal to do that. If necessary, you can use tensioners on BOTH sides of the wheels

 

[Johner]

Ever thing above sounds right. Chains must be tight they must over lap the inside wall tighten the adjusters. After that this is what I put on Mine on the outside of the tire, elastic cord from a parashot cord dealer tie and stretch cord tie to opposite side use about six of them. Chains been on 2 years now no problems tight as a drum.

 

[sourdough doug]

Great thread. I have a Cup Cadet Z-Force 54" deck Zero Turn that has terrible traction. My property is somewhat hilly, but not extremely so (central Kentucky). I thought about putting chains on it, but after reading this I thought perhaps there's a better way? Different tread, less air in the tires so they are not so stiff, etc.
Anybody have ideas?
Thanks, and this is a great forum.

Hi Will, I know you said that the chains you have are what was recommended , however I'm inclined to think you may need to try something different. Quite possible as what John mentioned about removing air and the re-inflating will work. I have chains on mine with just turf tires and don't think lugged tires are the fix..The chains I use, have fairly long cross chains and the tighteners are at least half ways down the sidewall of tire, on both in and outside. Never had any problems..."rolling"..

 

[Vulnavia]

Hi and Happy New Year!
Had a chance to work on the tire chains yesterday and noticed two things. First, had only 4psi in the tires. I suspect this is the root of my problem. ( I feel slightly embarrassed ) Second, there are two different types of chain going across the tire. Not sure why. there seems to be no pattern to the way they are applied. Let out the remaining air, took off chains and took a link out. Installed chains and put in air after an internet search I found pressure from 10 to 15 psi acceptable. Chains are noticeably tighter. Is this the right pressure ?
Thanks for all they advice.

Will