While we are on the subject of bolts, You can't imagine how confused I got many years ago when I ran across some bolts on a British motorcycle with "witworth" threads! Sheesh! LOL
While we are on the subject of bolts, You can't imagine how confused I got many years ago when I ran across some bolts on a British motorcycle with "witworth" threads! Sheesh! LOL
IGNORE/NO COMMENTIf you are concerned about corrosion and removal of a bolt or nut, you may have cleaned,lubricated and then torqued the fastener as usual , maybe by the torque settting in the owner's or workshop manual. Welcome to the world of limited information.
Almost all torque callouts are for dry , clean threads. When you lubricate and tighten to your favorite torque you are probably over -tightening by up to 45% (yes forty-five percent). This stresses the fastener toward its elastic limit where it looses clamping ability, necks down, work hardens and distorts threads. Sometimes you can see this with the naked eye. Do not reuse over- torqued fasteners
In this forum the most obvious fasteners subject to concern must be blade bolts and nuts. They are usually corroded or rusty on the outside and hard to get off , especially if not frequently removed.
Look at the charts below carefully . If you dip that clean dry 7/16 " x 20 bolt into motor oil the dry torque of 78 ft lbs should be reduced to about 55 ft lbs. If you use graphite/oil the figure should be reduced to 42 ft. lbs. Note this chart is for Grade 8 fasteners. People are usually concerned about spark plugs into aluminum heads. The plugs are often plated. A dab of motor oil and 15 ft lbs should be reduced to 10-11 ft lbs. If you dont' have a starting point on your fastener read the head marking in the diameter you have and put the these tables on your shop wall (Hot Rod Magazine 1970's). PS 12-27, The authors mentioned that lock tite has very little effect on torque.
IGNORE/NO COMMENT