The frozen whelk thread

[bertsmobile1]

If you have an air chisel with a point use a punch to make a divit in the center of the axel then use the chisel on the axel while applying outward pressure on the wheel. Good luck.

If you read the whole post you would see it is an MTD wheel with a bolt retaining the wheel so you pop a cap screw into the bolt hole and use the hammer against it .

 

[bertsmobile1]

You have a picture of the actual wheel?

It is the MTD wheel as mentioned in the original post
So it is the wheel with the 2 flats on the end .

 

[DRE97]

Did OP, jpokerwinski, get his wheel off?
The picture he provided is of a new wheel, would be helpful if he posted actual pictures of his wheel.
He has been given a lot of helpful advice but doesn't seem to respond.

 

[Silviasil]

use acetylene torch not propane. If no holes in rim, drill two holes and use wheel puller. Oreillys has something called timing gear puller that you can borrow. Was the only way that I was able to get rim off shaft

 

[PGB1]

Is it possible to get a gear puller (pulley puller) on the rim? Deflate the tire and grip the metal if the jaws aren't curved enough to pass the tire. You can rent these at many auto parts stores. Use safety eye wear in case the puller shatters.

A three or four-jaw puller gives less chance of bending the rim than a 2-jaw.
I'd tighten the puller a little, loosen & rotate to grip in another spot, then tighten a bit. Repeat & Repeat. Kind of like walking it off.

Plan B: Is there a way to get a pickle fork or a drill chuck removal wedge between the back of the hub and whatever the hub butts to. Then tap the wedge or fork to push the wheel off?

Maybe: I've had good luck with transmission fluid on rust-stuck nuts.

When successful, use anti-seize paste on the mating parts to prevent future sticking.

Best of Luck! You'll get it solved.
Paul

 

[johniii]

Did OP, jpokerwinski, get his wheel off?
The picture he provided is of a new wheel, would be helpful if he posted actual pictures of his wheel.
He has been given a lot of helpful advice but doesn't seem to respond.

I asked him for a picture, he puts a generic picture. Not really too hard to take pictures.

 

[Tucson47]

Hi,
I saw your post this morning just as I was leaving the house. Hope I'm not too late to help. I had one like that; a 1991 MTD with a 12 HP Briggs.
Do your wheels have two bolt holes (3/8" ?) straight across from each other and only a bolt and washer at the end of the axle shaft? If so, you can use a H/Freight wheel puller kit # 62620 (Pittsburgh line). It is a real nice puller kit and VERY cheap. Put a short bolt, no washer, into axle to protect the threads. You will have to use an electric impact wrench and be patient. Keep both ends of the wheel tube sprayed with penetrant It says not to use an impact wrench, due to thread galling, but you will HAVE to. Keep the large puller plate bolt threads & plate threads covered with anti-seize liberally....often. When I was done, the puller bolt and plate threads were still just like new. I rattled away for a day and a half [on and off of course] 1/8" to 1/4" at a time. If you try to do it manually, the long bolts will twist sideways and it all falls apart. You'll have to get a few longer bolts as the wheel starts coming off. The wheel tube is pretty deep. As the axle shaft starts disappearing into the wheel tube, you'll have to cut a few different lengths of shaft steel just a little smaller diameter the hole in the tube. You may be able to get by with just stacking a few nuts on top of each other 'til it comes off. I was NOT the lucky! Mine was a total bear......inch by inch ALL the way out.

Ohh, Important. Re: The two 3/8 holes in the wheels. To reinforce the backside of the wheel, you'll have to use thick large washers or plates between the nut and the wheel. Otherwise, just the nut and one washer will definitely damage the wheel.
Very best of luck to you.
Mike

 

[bmoore2620]

I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim

I just removed 4 of them from older model mtd mowers (k-gro, yardman) I tried the sledgehammer and heating too which didn't budge these either, but finally got them off using an air hammer. I put the bolts back in to protect the threads, then had a friend to pull at the wheel while i used the hammer and all 4 came off fairly easy. I did have to use a rethreading tool on one axle after the bolt bent and messed up the threads a little. After i changed the tires and reinstalled the wheels, i cleaned the axles and put a little grease on them to prevent them from being stuck if they need to be removed again.

 

[bmoore2620]

I just removed 4 of them from older model mtd mowers (k-gro, yardman) I tried the sledgehammer and heating too which didn't budge these either, but finally got them off using an air hammer. I put the bolts back in to protect the threads, then had a friend to pull at the wheel while i used the hammer and all 4 came off fairly easy. I did have to use a rethreading tool on one axle after the bolt bent and messed up the threads a little. After i changed the tires and reinstalled the wheels, i cleaned the axles and put a little grease on them to prevent them from being stuck if they need to be removed again.

I forgot to mention before, after the bolts are taken out that holds the wheel on, put them about 3/4 of the way back in and use the air hammer on top of the bolt.

 

[DRE97]

OP has one post.
Has gotten a lot of advice with no response. Think we can all assume he is long gone.
No need to waste more of our time trying to help.