The frozen whelk thread

[kjonxx]

Heat it up red hot then pour or hose it off immediately (back side) then tap on the part on the axle to break rust.
use pb blaster . If done correctly it will crystalize and break the rust. Last resort would be to cut a slit in the hub part on the axle to relieve it then when off clean it all up and put it back one then weld or tack it back together. I have done several of these and got them all off this way. cutting is faster and quicker. I assume this is one with the 2 flat sides on the axle. Red hot and cooling crystalizes rust

 

[Freddie21]

Last one I had like that, I did like Hammermech. I oiled it for two days tapping on the hub each time. Then I used an air hammer putting a blunt tip on the rear at the joint of the hub tube and the hub. Spinning every min or so. When that didn't work, I heated the hub tube, which darkened the paint, and hammered it again and it came off.

 

[Gord Baker]

I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim

I had one with a frozen wheel. Actually on a Snowblower. I put it on its side frozen wheel up and hung it from a rafter. Heat and penetrating oil, several separate times, then heating only 1 side of the wheel quickly I tossed on a pail of cold water. Heat up again and used hammer and heavy drift punch. You could drill a hole and use a pointed Air Chisel tool. Do NOT mushroom the axle. Some drill a deep small hole where the axle meets the wheel and fill with penetrating oil or wax before heating/cooling cycle. Good Luck.

 

[Honest Abe]

how long is the bolt? Maybe thread it back in all but a 1/4 - 1/2", then smack the head of the bolt real good with the sledge to try and break up whatever has the hub set up . . . . . .

 

[DRE97]

Assuming you removed the center bolt and "C" clip did you try a wheel puller.
Sounds like you heated it up pretty good. Keep spraying it with PB Blaster and try a wheel puller.
You can insert eye bolts into the holes on the wheel and attach the puller to them. Tighten the puller and the wheel should pop off.

 

[Gord Baker]

I replied once but it didn't stick! I slung a frozen wheel on a Snowblower turned on its' side from a rafter.
The weight of the machine is pulling on the axle. Heating and quenching, lots of penetrating oil. Some drill a small hole deep down the interface of axle and wheel for Penetrating oil or wax. Heat one side only on front and backside of the wheel, and attack with drift punch and biggest hammer. DO NOT mushroom the head.
Drill a large pilot indent in the centre of the axle and try a pointed Air Chisel. Good Luck.

 

[TwinL]

I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim

I know that feeling, I have taken many off under the same conditions your talking, some rims have holes in them already (for wheel weights) others I have drilled holes, I have a puller made for pulling hubs off cars, put bolts through, tighten puller, heat hub up and keep tightening the puller, hardwood block and smack the inside of rim, you may damage end of axle and have to grind/cut a piece off, and also re-drill the end and tap if it has the style with the end bolt, and yes I have destroyed a couple of rims, but the other 99%, have been met with success, good luck.

 

[TobyU]

I find it just takes time. That is your traditional MTD looking one that has the flat shaft on each side and round on the opposing sides with the bolt and washer that holds it on.
They do tend to rust up badly if they're in a damp climate..
I typically use nothing any stronger or better than PB blaster but I will lean the machine not quite on its side but at least a 45° angle with the wheel on the outside first and soak it for several hours or a day or two and then rotate it 180° and do the same again. Then I will bring the other side up in the air and soak the inside of the shaft to let it run that way also..
I've had a few that were tight that required a little bit of let's say twisting or at least rocking back and forth as I pushed it and pulled it and worked it back and forth and sprayed it a few more times but I've never actually had to hit one with a hammer or use any kind of puller etc.

If I were to think I needed that I would probably get a two or three foot piece of 2x4 or maybe even two by two and going from the rear and tap it a few times and then tap it from the outside back in just to make it move a little bit along with some more penetrating oil.

I don't like to beat on things like that because it's not the wheel you're worried about. It's the internal gears and housing and such inside the transmission.
Heat is okay just keep it on the wheel itself and you can probably access the front and the back with a torch just wipe it down good and have something to douse out the flames or smother them out if the oil you have on there catches on fire for a bit.
If you work from the inside which is mostly where it's stuck anyways, you won't really notice the paint bubbling off as badly and stuff plus you can touch it up later and it will be hidden.

 

[DinosaurMike]

Someone mentioned tranny/acetone mix. It is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. I read a comparison test of that mix and retail penetrating fluids. The 50/50 mix was far better than the purchased products. You would have to turn the tractor on its side (draining all fluids first) so that the wheel and tire surface are horizontal. You could make a dam on the wheel hub to keep the mix above the axle end and wheel hub so it can work its way in. Remember that the mix is flammable. Let it soak for a few days. Some degree of impact/vibration helps the mix to break down the rust. After a few days of soak and impact, try your favorite method of impact, pressure (jacks, etc), and heat from all of the great suggestions. As with troubleshooting, start with the least intense method and work your way up. Good luck and keep posting.

 

[Breezes]

I just had the same problem with an old Kmart mower (MTD)' Fortunately the rim had 2 holes in it fairly close to the axle area. I was able to used these holes to insert bolts from the back side and use a puller to remove the rim. It may be possible to drill holes in yours to use as I did.