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The frozen whelk thread
#1
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#2
johniii
johniii
Are you hitting it from behind the wheel? You may need a bigger hammer?
#3
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Yes I am hitting it from behind with pipe and a 2 pound hammer.Are you hitting it from behind the wheel? You may need a bigger hammer?
#4
johniii
johniii
Does it have just one nut on the wheel? You need a 5 pound mini sledgehammer, something bigger than 2 pounds. Hit the wheel dead on without a pipe. Spin the wheel and hit again.
#5
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
The wheel has the attached type hub. One bolt and a washer hold the wheel on. Your saying to hit the wheel with a 5 pound in the front?Does it have just one nut on the wheel? You need a 5 pound mini sledgehammer, something bigger than 2 pounds. Hit the wheel dead on without a pipe. Spin the wheel and hit again.
Attachments
#6
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Also most places around here sell 4 pound sledge. Harbour freight has a 5 pound dead blow but it has a soft face
#7
johniii
johniii
Hit it from the back it doesn't have to be 5 pounds, it's what I would use. Maybe try wally world or a hardware store. Pass on the dead blow, H.F. has 4 pound mini sledgehammer I believe.Also most places around here sell 4 pound sledge. Harbour freight has a 5 pound dead blow but it has a soft face
#8
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
I used to have a 5 pound but it flew off the handle and damn near killed my wifeHit it from the back it doesn't have to be 5 pounds, it's what I would use. Maybe try wally world or a hardware store. Pass on the dead blow, H.F. has 4 pound mini sledgehammer I believe.
#10
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Hitting from the back will probably trash the rim before it comes off. An air chisel usually works for me. A torch usually works too but you need to repaint the rim.
#11
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Flat air chisel? Put it on the lip where the rim meets the axel?Hitting from the back will probably trash the rim before it comes off. An air chisel usually works for me. A torch usually works too but you need to repaint the rim.
#12
B
bertsmobile1
Tighten them up to take up the play in the axel then 1/2 to one turn more
Use the point chisel on the end of the axel
If yours has a bolt then put an Allen head bolt in the hole to prevent damaging the threads & mushrooming the end of the shaft
Push as hard as you can on the air chisel then pull the trigger slowly
Some times it is easier to turn the mower on it's side
hammer away till the jacks start to slip out .
From here I like to get in with a fine wire brush, we & dry , what ever I have on hand to clean the small amount of exposed axel the some penetrating oil & tap the wheel back on
Now that there is a bit of movement some times a hammer from behind will give a bit more, if so clean again oil again & repeat as necessary
If not then back with the scissor jacks & air hammer again
On some I have had to walk the wheel all the way off with the air hammer & jacks
On some really rusty ones that also had axel damage I had to heat the wheel red hot with the oxy torch while using the air hammer .
I try not to use the torch because that means repainting the wheels
Make sure you clean the axel when the wheel is off and liberally grease it
Then take bot wheels off every odd numbered year and regrease them
B
bertsmobile1
Get a pair of scissor jacks and place between the back of the wheel & the mower bodyFlat air chisel? Put it on the lip where the rim meets the axel?
Tighten them up to take up the play in the axel then 1/2 to one turn more
Use the point chisel on the end of the axel
If yours has a bolt then put an Allen head bolt in the hole to prevent damaging the threads & mushrooming the end of the shaft
Push as hard as you can on the air chisel then pull the trigger slowly
Some times it is easier to turn the mower on it's side
hammer away till the jacks start to slip out .
From here I like to get in with a fine wire brush, we & dry , what ever I have on hand to clean the small amount of exposed axel the some penetrating oil & tap the wheel back on
Now that there is a bit of movement some times a hammer from behind will give a bit more, if so clean again oil again & repeat as necessary
If not then back with the scissor jacks & air hammer again
On some I have had to walk the wheel all the way off with the air hammer & jacks
On some really rusty ones that also had axel damage I had to heat the wheel red hot with the oxy torch while using the air hammer .
I try not to use the torch because that means repainting the wheels
Make sure you clean the axel when the wheel is off and liberally grease it
Then take bot wheels off every odd numbered year and regrease them
#13
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
No, get a pointed chisel and use it on the axle.Flat air chisel? Put it on the lip where the rim meets the axel?
#14
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
I’m a little confused as to where you put the point chisel. In the back , driving it towards the front ?Get a pair of scissor jacks and place between the back of the wheel & the mower body
Tighten them up to take up the play in the axel then 1/2 to one turn more
Use the point chisel on the end of the axel
If yours has a bolt then put an Allen head bolt in the hole to prevent damaging the threads & mushrooming the end of the shaft
Push as hard as you can on the air chisel then pull the trigger slowly
Some times it is easier to turn the mower on it's side
hammer away till the jacks start to slip out .
From here I like to get in with a fine wire brush, we & dry , what ever I have on hand to clean the small amount of exposed axel the some penetrating oil & tap the wheel back on
Now that there is a bit of movement some times a hammer from behind will give a bit more, if so clean again oil again & repeat as necessary
If not then back with the scissor jacks & air hammer again
On some I have had to walk the wheel all the way off with the air hammer & jacks
On some really rusty ones that also had axel damage I had to heat the wheel red hot with the oxy torch while using the air hammer .
I try not to use the torch because that means repainting the wheels
Make sure you clean the axel when the wheel is off and liberally grease it
Then take bot wheels off every odd numbered year and regrease them
#15
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The jacks are pushing the wheel out and the chisel is pushing the axel in
It is done this way to prevent ripping the axel out of the gearbox
10,000 little blows a minute works better than 2 massive big ones a minute with a 10lb hammer
Very important that the end of the chisel is in hard contact with the axel & not bouncing or you will mushroom out the end of the axle .
This is Taryl showing how to do it Walking off wheels
It is done this way to prevent ripping the axel out of the gearbox
10,000 little blows a minute works better than 2 massive big ones a minute with a 10lb hammer
Very important that the end of the chisel is in hard contact with the axel & not bouncing or you will mushroom out the end of the axle .
This is Taryl showing how to do it Walking off wheels
#16
J
jpokerwinski
so the jacks need to be on the wheel “sleeve” ( on the inside) or the axel itself.
I am so pissed off at this thing I’m about ready to use a sawzall on the wheel and cut the damn thing off in pieces
J
jpokerwinski
The end of my axel has threads where the bolt goes. Someone suggested putting a Allen or hex head bolt in there and using the center of the Allen head.The jacks are pushing the wheel out and the chisel is pushing the axel in
It is done this way to prevent ripping the axel out of the gearbox
10,000 little blows a minute works better than 2 massive big ones a minute with a 10lb hammer
Very important that the end of the chisel is in hard contact with the axel & not bouncing or you will mushroom out the end of the axle .
This is Taryl showing how to do it Walking off wheels
so the jacks need to be on the wheel “sleeve” ( on the inside) or the axel itself.
I am so pissed off at this thing I’m about ready to use a sawzall on the wheel and cut the damn thing off in pieces
#17
StarTech
StarTech
And if push come to shove you can always take the transaxle apart and try pressing the axle out of the rim.
Those darn MTD axle and rims do rust fairly solid at time. Penerating oil like PB Blaster simply can not work as the rust and dirt swells thus preventing good penetration.
What a lot of the times here is 2 cycle fuel mix. It can penerate and not swell the dirt and rust. This provided that there is some movement to start with. You never ever want beat directly on the shaft as it will flare the end making a bad problem even worst.
Using a socket head is a good idea to prevent the flaring but you limit the wheel movement in reference to the axle or you just wasting your time. An air hammer applied the screw may overcome this enough to move the axle.
Those darn MTD axle and rims do rust fairly solid at time. Penerating oil like PB Blaster simply can not work as the rust and dirt swells thus preventing good penetration.
What a lot of the times here is 2 cycle fuel mix. It can penerate and not swell the dirt and rust. This provided that there is some movement to start with. You never ever want beat directly on the shaft as it will flare the end making a bad problem even worst.
Using a socket head is a good idea to prevent the flaring but you limit the wheel movement in reference to the axle or you just wasting your time. An air hammer applied the screw may overcome this enough to move the axle.
#18
B
bertsmobile1
I have done some with the jacks against they tyre because there was not enough space
I have also used " Machine jacks" which I made by putting two bolts into a thread extender ( length of hex with a thread all the way through ) which are a hardwear item
If you go that route then use 1/2" or bigger
The jacks are not trying to push the wheel off they are just taking up the free play in the axel which is only 1/8" to 1/4" so have to be retightened every 1/8 to 1/4"
Usually once it starts to come and the initial rust bond is broken it will usually walk off as easy as the first one Tarly does
I have used wooden wedges , surveyors pegs , lengths of 2 x 4 , pry bars .
Some of corse are just plain obstinate and need to be hammered off the whole distance , these are the ones that get the axel & wheel wire brushed , sprayed with penetrant then tapped back on, left over night & tried again in the morning
The allen head screw is just to stop the point jumping off and the end of the axel mushrooming
If your wheel has the puller holes then you can use a puller with a rattle gun
Similar story the 10,000 little jerks a minute as the rattle gun tightens the puller works so much better than a wrench with 6' of pipe on the end of it
Only once is 11 years have I needed to resort to the oxy and that was a mower that had been in several floods
B
bertsmobile1
I usually put them between the the body & the rimThe end of my axel has threads where the bolt goes. Someone suggested putting a Allen or hex head bolt in there and using the center of the Allen head.
so the jacks need to be on the wheel “sleeve” ( on the inside) or the axel itself.
I am so pissed off at this thing I’m about ready to use a sawzall on the wheel and cut the damn thing off in pieces
I have done some with the jacks against they tyre because there was not enough space
I have also used " Machine jacks" which I made by putting two bolts into a thread extender ( length of hex with a thread all the way through ) which are a hardwear item
If you go that route then use 1/2" or bigger
The jacks are not trying to push the wheel off they are just taking up the free play in the axel which is only 1/8" to 1/4" so have to be retightened every 1/8 to 1/4"
Usually once it starts to come and the initial rust bond is broken it will usually walk off as easy as the first one Tarly does
I have used wooden wedges , surveyors pegs , lengths of 2 x 4 , pry bars .
Some of corse are just plain obstinate and need to be hammered off the whole distance , these are the ones that get the axel & wheel wire brushed , sprayed with penetrant then tapped back on, left over night & tried again in the morning
The allen head screw is just to stop the point jumping off and the end of the axel mushrooming
If your wheel has the puller holes then you can use a puller with a rattle gun
Similar story the 10,000 little jerks a minute as the rattle gun tightens the puller works so much better than a wrench with 6' of pipe on the end of it
Only once is 11 years have I needed to resort to the oxy and that was a mower that had been in several floods
#19
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Well the holes in my wheels are getting stretched. That’s how tight this wheel is.I usually put them between the the body & the rim
I have done some with the jacks against they tyre because there was not enough space
I have also used " Machine jacks" which I made by putting two bolts into a thread extender ( length of hex with a thread all the way through ) which are a hardwear item
If you go that route then use 1/2" or bigger
The jacks are not trying to push the wheel off they are just taking up the free play in the axel which is only 1/8" to 1/4" so have to be retightened every 1/8 to 1/4"
Usually once it starts to come and the initial rust bond is broken it will usually walk off as easy as the first one Tarly does
I have used wooden wedges , surveyors pegs , lengths of 2 x 4 , pry bars .
Some of corse are just plain obstinate and need to be hammered off the whole distance , these are the ones that get the axel & wheel wire brushed , sprayed with penetrant then tapped back on, left over night & tried again in the morning
The allen head screw is just to stop the point jumping off and the end of the axel mushrooming
If your wheel has the puller holes then you can use a puller with a rattle gun
Similar story the 10,000 little jerks a minute as the rattle gun tightens the puller works so much better than a wrench with 6' of pipe on the end of it
Only once is 11 years have I needed to resort to the oxy and that was a mower that had been in several floods
#20
B
bertsmobile1
Look at the video link & learn .
B
bertsmobile1
Which is why I use the jacks & air hammerWell the holes in my wheels are getting stretched. That’s how tight this wheel is.
Look at the video link & learn .
#21
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
heat and quinch. heat the rim/axel up cherry red, quinch it with a water hose.
#22
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
If it is one of those MTD ones with no key and flat on the axle and a bolt in the center I use a bolt with a dimple drilled into it for the air chisel and I wedge a 2x4 behind the wheel and then use a real good air chisel with 175psi of air. They come off.
#23
johniii
johniii
Extreme heat and Extreme cold. The best way.Which is why I use the jacks & air hammer
Look at the video link & learn .
#24
B
bertsmobile1
Which if you watched the video you would have seen Taryl do
To keep on repeating myself in 11 years only once did I need to break out the oxy torch and do a red heat removal
Because 99% of the time the air hammer works perfectly without doing any further damage, even if it is just burning the paint
Although I like to use the air hammer there as well while the wheel is still red hot
Getting used to using air hammers & levers / jacks / wedges is quite handy because there are lots of things that lock onto tapers like cast iron or alloy flywheels or blower fans where heat can not be used but the air hammer can be used
Extram heat does have places where it is the best solution , I do use it where necessary and in fact I have an induction heating kit on the water right now
I had a night shift fitter who had the 3 tools that worked every time
a 10lb hammer a pointed punch & a cold chisel
B
bertsmobile1
As the last resortExtreme heat and Extreme cold. The best way.
Which if you watched the video you would have seen Taryl do
To keep on repeating myself in 11 years only once did I need to break out the oxy torch and do a red heat removal
Because 99% of the time the air hammer works perfectly without doing any further damage, even if it is just burning the paint
Although I like to use the air hammer there as well while the wheel is still red hot
Getting used to using air hammers & levers / jacks / wedges is quite handy because there are lots of things that lock onto tapers like cast iron or alloy flywheels or blower fans where heat can not be used but the air hammer can be used
Extram heat does have places where it is the best solution , I do use it where necessary and in fact I have an induction heating kit on the water right now
I had a night shift fitter who had the 3 tools that worked every time
a 10lb hammer a pointed punch & a cold chisel
#25
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
The real fun is when you need to replace the seals on the wheel and tine shafts of a troy bilt tiller and the wheels and tines haven't been off for 20 years. Spent an entire day on one just getting the wheels and tines off without destroying anything.
#26
StarTech
StarTech
OH you really like those ponies don't you?
Every since I started using 2 cycle fuel mix and the trans/acetone mix. Sometimes one or the other. Muriatic acid also works to remove the rust. So far I only cut off one set of wheels and that was because the equipment owner had already destroyed the rims. I cut them off using a torch and didn't even damaged the axles.
But of the tiller owner don't know that put the wheels in neutral position as you know the rims ends up rusting in place they are never cleaned.
Every since I started using 2 cycle fuel mix and the trans/acetone mix. Sometimes one or the other. Muriatic acid also works to remove the rust. So far I only cut off one set of wheels and that was because the equipment owner had already destroyed the rims. I cut them off using a torch and didn't even damaged the axles.
But of the tiller owner don't know that put the wheels in neutral position as you know the rims ends up rusting in place they are never cleaned.
#27
J
jpokerwinski
wont it ruin the tire?
Quench it with cold water? Won’t that explode in your face ? Lol
J
jpokerwinski
I heated it up but not to cherry red. Are you talking about the outside of the wheel or the inside where the hub goes over the axel ? I only have cans a MAPP gas. How long does it take to get it to cherry red?heat and quinch. heat the rim/axel up cherry red, quinch it with a water hose.
wont it ruin the tire?
Quench it with cold water? Won’t that explode in your face ? Lol
#28
S
slomo
S
slomo
Get all the rims off and ati-sneeze them for the next guy. Blade bolts, spindle bolts and so on.
#29
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Duh. Gotta get them off first!Get all the rims off and ati-sneeze them for the next guy. Blade bolts, spindle bolts and so on.
View attachment 65943
#31
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
That is the stuff I use on all my rusty stuff once I clean them up. But this wheel is all but impossible. My next step is to pull the tire off and cut the damn wheel offDuh. Gotta get them off first!
#32
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Not the whole rim,just the area around the axle. When you quench it, it goes from one extreme to the next, hot to cold, and that turns the rust to a powder.I heated it up but not to cherry red. Are you talking about the outside of the wheel or the inside where the hub goes over the axel ? I only have cans a MAPP gas. How long does it take to get it to cherry red?
wont it ruin the tire?
Quench it with cold water? Won’t that explode in your face ? Lol
#33
J
jpokerwinski
This guy was funny. I think I know him. So he just put a bolt in the shaft hole and heated the shit out of it and air hammered it off. I don’t have a acetylene torch . But I do have a Mapp. I don’t think Mapp would get it hot enough?
J
jpokerwinski
Not the whole rim,just the area around the axle. When you quench it, it goes from one extreme to the next, hot to cold, and that turns the rust to a powder.
This guy was funny. I think I know him. So he just put a bolt in the shaft hole and heated the shit out of it and air hammered it off. I don’t have a acetylene torch . But I do have a Mapp. I don’t think Mapp would get it hot enough?
#34
S
slomo
S
slomo
Mapp is no longer made. It's just a brand name now. Anyway it was only 50F hotter than propane. Not a big deal.Mapp. I don’t think Mapp would get it hot enough?
#35
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Well I have 2 bottles of mapped left over but I don’t think it’s hot enough to get the wheel red hotMapp is no longer made. It's just a brand name now. Anyway it was only 50F hotter than propane. Not a big deal.
#36
B
bertsmobile1
from this reply I think not
B
bertsmobile1
DID you look at the video I went to the effort of posting a link to ?I heated it up but not to cherry red. Are you talking about the outside of the wheel or the inside where the hub goes over the axel ? I only have cans a MAPP gas. How long does it take to get it to cherry red?
wont it ruin the tire?
Quench it with cold water? Won’t that explode in your face ? Lol
from this reply I think not
#37
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
I did thank youDID you look at the video I went to the effort of posting a link to ?
from this reply I think not
#39
S
sixbales
S
sixbales
Many years ago, I had this same problem with a neighbor's John Deere Sabre mower. He wanted to change the tire. I don't recall exactly how I finally got it off, but it was a brutal job. I concluded that thereafter I would change the tire with the rim on the tractor. If your objective is to change or repair the tire, I recommend do the job with the rim on the tractor.
#40
J
jpokerwinski
J
jpokerwinski
Well it is now become a matter of pride. Lol . I’m gonna wait until the mowing season is over and a friend will bring his oxy - acetylene torch over. Plan on heating up then cooling it down a few times . And if that doesn’t work I’m gonna cut that MF off.Many years ago, I had this same problem with a neighbor's John Deere Sabre mower. He wanted to change the tire. I don't recall exactly how I finally got it off, but it was a brutal job. I concluded that thereafter I would change the tire with the rim on the tractor. If your objective is to change or repair the tire, I recommend do the job with the rim on the tractor.
#41
P
purse
P
purse
Heat up the rim front and rear cherry red around axle . Once hot QuinnI hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
heat up rim front and rear around the axle quench with water. You may have to due it a few times then use an air chisel. Should walk off the axle. Bye heating and cooling it’s turning the rust to a powder. More likely the rim will need to be touched up with paint. Good luck !I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#42
W
witkop
W
witkop
A alternate way of heating the assembly is to send more than a few amps through the shaft with a welding transformer.Shaft expands, shrinks, expands, shrinks if you use it in cycles.You willl be limited by the duty cycle of the welder.Alternatively you can adapt an old microwave transformer(s) to very low voltage/high current.Look for DIY spot welders on youtube for ideas.
#43
Piros1
Piros1
I’ve not worked on this particular mower but based on what you are saying it sounds like the wheel may have a tapered hub. Regardless if you have a solid shaft rather than the pipe you will get a better impact on the hub of the wheel. If it were mine I would heat the hub up quickly until red and then try to drive it off.
I have in similar situations if you don’t a good torch heat it then spray with a good penetrating oil and let it creep in. Try to tap off If that doesn’t work heat it up again and try to drive it off. The key to heating something like this is to heat it to a red hot as quick as possible so not to heat the shaft then drive it off.
I have in similar situations if you don’t a good torch heat it then spray with a good penetrating oil and let it creep in. Try to tap off If that doesn’t work heat it up again and try to drive it off. The key to heating something like this is to heat it to a red hot as quick as possible so not to heat the shaft then drive it off.
#44
J
JAZ
J
JAZ
Try brake fluid. Hit it with hammer, more brake fluid then let set for a day. Might work.I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#46
H
Handy7rick
H
Handy7rick
Best rust inhibitor is brake fluid. Believe me next to heat , it’s the best!I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#48
E
ESully
E
ESully
I went through this with my neighbors Craftsman Lawn Tractor. It was not easy. Tried all the methods here. Heating, cooling, penetrating oil, gear puller, hammer & chisel, etc. I did not want to pound too hard on the rim from behind as I worried about the transmission.
I went to a friends service station to ask him for advice, and told my friend I would be back soon. He decided to beat on the back of the rim with a chisel and big hammer while I was gone. When I got back my I found he had knocked something loose in the transmission, as the axle now moved. This was a hydro-static transmission.
So anyway, I had to pull the whole transmission out and take it all apart. On the good side I was finally able to get the rim off now that I had the axle out, and fortunately the only damage was to an internal 'C' clip. New rim was needed, that old one did not want to move after 20 years. Mower's transmission is still working well 3 years later.
I went to a friends service station to ask him for advice, and told my friend I would be back soon. He decided to beat on the back of the rim with a chisel and big hammer while I was gone. When I got back my I found he had knocked something loose in the transmission, as the axle now moved. This was a hydro-static transmission.
So anyway, I had to pull the whole transmission out and take it all apart. On the good side I was finally able to get the rim off now that I had the axle out, and fortunately the only damage was to an internal 'C' clip. New rim was needed, that old one did not want to move after 20 years. Mower's transmission is still working well 3 years later.
#49
C
Curtisun
C
Curtisun
I had a rear wheel just like your description. I done about the same things people are saying to do and I had a 5 lb sledge hammer and used a steel bar along with someone prying at same time and it would not budge.
What I ended up doing was taking a cutting torch and cutting the rim off the axle without damaging the splines. But it takes someone with a lot of experience with a torch not to damage the shaft.
What I ended up doing was taking a cutting torch and cutting the rim off the axle without damaging the splines. But it takes someone with a lot of experience with a torch not to damage the shaft.
#50
O
Oddjob
O
Oddjob
I have no experience with this wheel set up. Can you get the bolt out? Your picture shows the wheel and tire with no bolt. If you can get the bolt out then maybe try a gear puller. Buy a longer bolt with the same threads and put a dimple in the middle of the head for the puller’s bolt tip to fit in. Then screw in the long bolt and hook the pullers arms to the rim. I think you can borrow a big puller from Autozone for no money if you don’t have one.
#51
K
kjonxx
K
kjonxx
Heat it up red hot then pour or hose it off immediately (back side) then tap on the part on the axle to break rust.
use pb blaster . If done correctly it will crystalize and break the rust. Last resort would be to cut a slit in the hub part on the axle to relieve it then when off clean it all up and put it back one then weld or tack it back together. I have done several of these and got them all off this way. cutting is faster and quicker. I assume this is one with the 2 flat sides on the axle. Red hot and cooling crystalizes rust
use pb blaster . If done correctly it will crystalize and break the rust. Last resort would be to cut a slit in the hub part on the axle to relieve it then when off clean it all up and put it back one then weld or tack it back together. I have done several of these and got them all off this way. cutting is faster and quicker. I assume this is one with the 2 flat sides on the axle. Red hot and cooling crystalizes rust
#52
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
Last one I had like that, I did like Hammermech. I oiled it for two days tapping on the hub each time. Then I used an air hammer putting a blunt tip on the rear at the joint of the hub tube and the hub. Spinning every min or so. When that didn't work, I heated the hub tube, which darkened the paint, and hammered it again and it came off.
#53
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
I had one with a frozen wheel. Actually on a Snowblower. I put it on its side frozen wheel up and hung it from a rafter. Heat and penetrating oil, several separate times, then heating only 1 side of the wheel quickly I tossed on a pail of cold water. Heat up again and used hammer and heavy drift punch. You could drill a hole and use a pointed Air Chisel tool. Do NOT mushroom the axle. Some drill a deep small hole where the axle meets the wheel and fill with penetrating oil or wax before heating/cooling cycle. Good Luck.I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#54
H
Honest Abe
H
Honest Abe
how long is the bolt? Maybe thread it back in all but a 1/4 - 1/2", then smack the head of the bolt real good with the sledge to try and break up whatever has the hub set up . . . . . .
#55
D
DRE97
D
DRE97
Assuming you removed the center bolt and "C" clip did you try a wheel puller.
Sounds like you heated it up pretty good. Keep spraying it with PB Blaster and try a wheel puller.
You can insert eye bolts into the holes on the wheel and attach the puller to them. Tighten the puller and the wheel should pop off.
Sounds like you heated it up pretty good. Keep spraying it with PB Blaster and try a wheel puller.
You can insert eye bolts into the holes on the wheel and attach the puller to them. Tighten the puller and the wheel should pop off.
#56
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
I replied once but it didn't stick! I slung a frozen wheel on a Snowblower turned on its' side from a rafter.
The weight of the machine is pulling on the axle. Heating and quenching, lots of penetrating oil. Some drill a small hole deep down the interface of axle and wheel for Penetrating oil or wax. Heat one side only on front and backside of the wheel, and attack with drift punch and biggest hammer. DO NOT mushroom the head.
Drill a large pilot indent in the centre of the axle and try a pointed Air Chisel. Good Luck.
The weight of the machine is pulling on the axle. Heating and quenching, lots of penetrating oil. Some drill a small hole deep down the interface of axle and wheel for Penetrating oil or wax. Heat one side only on front and backside of the wheel, and attack with drift punch and biggest hammer. DO NOT mushroom the head.
Drill a large pilot indent in the centre of the axle and try a pointed Air Chisel. Good Luck.
#57
T
TwinL
T
TwinL
I know that feeling, I have taken many off under the same conditions your talking, some rims have holes in them already (for wheel weights) others I have drilled holes, I have a puller made for pulling hubs off cars, put bolts through, tighten puller, heat hub up and keep tightening the puller, hardwood block and smack the inside of rim, you may damage end of axle and have to grind/cut a piece off, and also re-drill the end and tap if it has the style with the end bolt, and yes I have destroyed a couple of rims, but the other 99%, have been met with success, good luck.I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#58
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
I find it just takes time. That is your traditional MTD looking one that has the flat shaft on each side and round on the opposing sides with the bolt and washer that holds it on.
They do tend to rust up badly if they're in a damp climate..
I typically use nothing any stronger or better than PB blaster but I will lean the machine not quite on its side but at least a 45° angle with the wheel on the outside first and soak it for several hours or a day or two and then rotate it 180° and do the same again. Then I will bring the other side up in the air and soak the inside of the shaft to let it run that way also..
I've had a few that were tight that required a little bit of let's say twisting or at least rocking back and forth as I pushed it and pulled it and worked it back and forth and sprayed it a few more times but I've never actually had to hit one with a hammer or use any kind of puller etc.
If I were to think I needed that I would probably get a two or three foot piece of 2x4 or maybe even two by two and going from the rear and tap it a few times and then tap it from the outside back in just to make it move a little bit along with some more penetrating oil.
I don't like to beat on things like that because it's not the wheel you're worried about. It's the internal gears and housing and such inside the transmission.
Heat is okay just keep it on the wheel itself and you can probably access the front and the back with a torch just wipe it down good and have something to douse out the flames or smother them out if the oil you have on there catches on fire for a bit.
If you work from the inside which is mostly where it's stuck anyways, you won't really notice the paint bubbling off as badly and stuff plus you can touch it up later and it will be hidden.
They do tend to rust up badly if they're in a damp climate..
I typically use nothing any stronger or better than PB blaster but I will lean the machine not quite on its side but at least a 45° angle with the wheel on the outside first and soak it for several hours or a day or two and then rotate it 180° and do the same again. Then I will bring the other side up in the air and soak the inside of the shaft to let it run that way also..
I've had a few that were tight that required a little bit of let's say twisting or at least rocking back and forth as I pushed it and pulled it and worked it back and forth and sprayed it a few more times but I've never actually had to hit one with a hammer or use any kind of puller etc.
If I were to think I needed that I would probably get a two or three foot piece of 2x4 or maybe even two by two and going from the rear and tap it a few times and then tap it from the outside back in just to make it move a little bit along with some more penetrating oil.
I don't like to beat on things like that because it's not the wheel you're worried about. It's the internal gears and housing and such inside the transmission.
Heat is okay just keep it on the wheel itself and you can probably access the front and the back with a torch just wipe it down good and have something to douse out the flames or smother them out if the oil you have on there catches on fire for a bit.
If you work from the inside which is mostly where it's stuck anyways, you won't really notice the paint bubbling off as badly and stuff plus you can touch it up later and it will be hidden.
#59
D
DinosaurMike
D
DinosaurMike
Someone mentioned tranny/acetone mix. It is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. I read a comparison test of that mix and retail penetrating fluids. The 50/50 mix was far better than the purchased products. You would have to turn the tractor on its side (draining all fluids first) so that the wheel and tire surface are horizontal. You could make a dam on the wheel hub to keep the mix above the axle end and wheel hub so it can work its way in. Remember that the mix is flammable. Let it soak for a few days. Some degree of impact/vibration helps the mix to break down the rust. After a few days of soak and impact, try your favorite method of impact, pressure (jacks, etc), and heat from all of the great suggestions. As with troubleshooting, start with the least intense method and work your way up. Good luck and keep posting.
#60
B
Breezes
B
Breezes
I just had the same problem with an old Kmart mower (MTD)' Fortunately the rim had 2 holes in it fairly close to the axle area. I was able to used these holes to insert bolts from the back side and use a puller to remove the rim. It may be possible to drill holes in yours to use as I did.
#61
L
LMPPLUS
L
LMPPLUS
These wheels are xtremley hard to get off, many times the axle will pull out of the transmission before the axle will break loose from the hub, your best chance is to heat the hub area really hot and quinch with water, doing this you also run the risk of over heating the transmission seal. Good luck.
#62
J
JKQ
J
JKQ
Is this a rear wheel you are working on? Are there two holes on each side of the arbor? Get a puller from a parts store insert all thread in holes and push against he wheel,Penetrating oil and tighten center bolt to push wheel oof of drive shaftI hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#63
C
Curtisun
C
Curtisun
I had a rear wheel just like your description. I done about the same things people are saying to do use a puller, heat the hub at the axel area quinch it and a sledge hammer 5 lb and used a steel bar along with someone tightening the wheel puller at same time and it would not budge. I bought maybe 20$ worth of rust solvent and lubricant type solvents such as WD40 and blaster. None worked because it did not penetrate deep enough.
What I ended up doing was taking a cutting torch and cutting the rim off the axle without damaging the splines. But it takes someone with a lot of experience with a torch not to damage the shaft.
There is some that will not come off without damaging the hub.
What I ended up doing was taking a cutting torch and cutting the rim off the axle without damaging the splines. But it takes someone with a lot of experience with a torch not to damage the shaft.
There is some that will not come off without damaging the hub.
#64
C
Curtisun
C
Curtisun
One other thing is to use some never seize on the axel when putting another one on and you will not have this problem if you ever have to remove it again.
#65
G
georgPru2
G
georgPru2
Taryl has a video showing a unique way of using a air hammer to remove stuck rider whls.I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#66
johniii
johniii
Did you ever get it off? Lots of good answers here.
#67
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
If you put a sacrificial bolt into the axle, suspend the back end, and give the bolt a good belt with a large hammer, the axle will try to move out of the wheel hub. I like using air operate chiseld with a round flat face, possibly pointed chisel in the hammer. Suspend as before, wheel off the ground anyway, and apply the chisel. The multiple hits directly on the end of the axle(via the bolt) should vibrate it enough to break the hub free of the axle. I think banging on the inner side of the wheel will not be productive, could be mistaken. You may want to have someone attempt to give the wheel more mass by holding onto the tire as the big hammer or air chisel bangs are given.
tom
tom
#68
M
MowerNick
M
MowerNick
Careful to not break the snap ring inside the transaxle. could cost you alot of money.
#69
C
catfish51
C
catfish51
I feel sorry for you You were very close to becoming happy again lolI used to have a 5 pound but it flew off the handle and damn near killed my wife
#70
L
louwdj
L
louwdj
Been there, done it several times. I nursed one (JD STX 38) for several weeks in a vertical position with ATF/Acetone mix. Kept puller on, hammered, pressed with two hydraulic jacks, etc but eventually wrote the rim off, cutting it off the axle with an angle grinder. Unfortunately I do not have an air chisel which in future I may try. Lately, I do not bother to try it in position. I just split the gearbox, take wheel and shaft out and press it off in a hydraulic press. These were all John Deeres with square key on a round axle. I have seen pressures in excess of 20 tons in the press before they would budge. Since these axles are not tapered, after the initial snap, they still have to be pressed all the way, Snapping as the release, all the way.
Attachments
#71
W
Wrenchit
There are 1/16" snap rings holding the spider gears on the axle inside the gear box, hitting it either way can damage the snap ring. The trans axles are well sealed together, and some times will crack, while splitting the case in two. Those old MTD parts are no longer available, so you junk the tractor.
If you don't have proper tools, I would just break the tire loose get one side out and tube it.. If not, cut it off without damaging the rim. Lube the new tire good and get it back on. Tie a rope around the middle of the tire and twist it until the tire beads touch the rim and it will take air. Once it starts taking air, remove the rope. I have junked many of the old MTDs because of people banging on the axles and destroying the snap ring.
It can be a nightmare but take your time, and you will get it fixed
W
Wrenchit
Being in the repair business for 40+ years , you have few options. Replace the tire on the rim while on the tractor. Use Kroil to loosen the rust, (Expensive but actually works) and use a puller to remove the rim.I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
There are 1/16" snap rings holding the spider gears on the axle inside the gear box, hitting it either way can damage the snap ring. The trans axles are well sealed together, and some times will crack, while splitting the case in two. Those old MTD parts are no longer available, so you junk the tractor.
If you don't have proper tools, I would just break the tire loose get one side out and tube it.. If not, cut it off without damaging the rim. Lube the new tire good and get it back on. Tie a rope around the middle of the tire and twist it until the tire beads touch the rim and it will take air. Once it starts taking air, remove the rope. I have junked many of the old MTDs because of people banging on the axles and destroying the snap ring.
It can be a nightmare but take your time, and you will get it fixed
#72
J
jviews12
J
jviews12
I have used PB BLASTER fo 5 to 10 days in a row. Every day hit with hammer, but does not work. BLAST again because maybe crack in rust allows BLASTER to penetrate more. Did a snowblower gear this way. In my case maybe heat would have worked faster, but one day, gear just moved.
#73
G
gbrewer
from the hub. I then used the sawsall to cut the hub away from the axle. I then used a chisel to spread the hub and remove the hub from the axle. I went to the junk dealer and bought a
nearly complete (no engine) Murry with the same size wheels for about the same money that a new wheel would have cost. If you continue to beat on the wheel you will damage the seals, retainers, gears and housing of the transmission. Mine is a MTD Legacy GT1846 1991 Model. Lately I had a flat tire on the same wheel and tried to remove it; but it was stuck
tight again. Note that I did all the necessary stuff to reduce the possibility of this wheel ever getting stuck; I cleaned and buffed the axle, cleaned an buffed the key and keyway, used
antiseeze compound for assembly. Good luck.
G
gbrewer
I had this same problem about two years ago. I tried all the options mentioned. I finally drilled out a hole as close as I could get to the wheel hub and used a sawsall to cut the wheelI hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
from the hub. I then used the sawsall to cut the hub away from the axle. I then used a chisel to spread the hub and remove the hub from the axle. I went to the junk dealer and bought a
nearly complete (no engine) Murry with the same size wheels for about the same money that a new wheel would have cost. If you continue to beat on the wheel you will damage the seals, retainers, gears and housing of the transmission. Mine is a MTD Legacy GT1846 1991 Model. Lately I had a flat tire on the same wheel and tried to remove it; but it was stuck
tight again. Note that I did all the necessary stuff to reduce the possibility of this wheel ever getting stuck; I cleaned and buffed the axle, cleaned an buffed the key and keyway, used
antiseeze compound for assembly. Good luck.
#74
T
TobyU
It is true that the 50/50 acetone ATF mix has proven to be the best penetrating oil out there but even in a squirt bottle it's a little bit harder to use..
Maybe as a last resort but as I have said, squirting these down multiple times and rotating them around and letting them sit for a day and a half to two and a half days has always allowed me to rock it back and forth a little bit and work it off..
You have to also remember you don't want to just always try to remove something. Sometimes it speeds up the process by trying to push it on a little bit further before you try to pull it out and then if it does move respray it and work it back in a little bit more spraying each end every time it moves in so there's some exposed shaft and then pulling it over that part that you just put fresh lubricating oil on.
T
TobyU
There's really no reason to turn the more completely on its side as a 45° angle or even less than that we'll get the job done and then you can simply rotate the wheel half turn around and pour some more on.Someone mentioned tranny/acetone mix. It is a 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. I read a comparison test of that mix and retail penetrating fluids. The 50/50 mix was far better than the purchased products. You would have to turn the tractor on its side (draining all fluids first) so that the wheel and tire surface are horizontal. You could make a dam on the wheel hub to keep the mix above the axle end and wheel hub so it can work its way in. Remember that the mix is flammable. Let it soak for a few days. Some degree of impact/vibration helps the mix to break down the rust. After a few days of soak and impact, try your favorite method of impact, pressure (jacks, etc), and heat from all of the great suggestions. As with troubleshooting, start with the least intense method and work your way up. Good luck and keep posting.
It is true that the 50/50 acetone ATF mix has proven to be the best penetrating oil out there but even in a squirt bottle it's a little bit harder to use..
Maybe as a last resort but as I have said, squirting these down multiple times and rotating them around and letting them sit for a day and a half to two and a half days has always allowed me to rock it back and forth a little bit and work it off..
You have to also remember you don't want to just always try to remove something. Sometimes it speeds up the process by trying to push it on a little bit further before you try to pull it out and then if it does move respray it and work it back in a little bit more spraying each end every time it moves in so there's some exposed shaft and then pulling it over that part that you just put fresh lubricating oil on.
#75
The Maintenance Guy
The Maintenance Guy
Is there any way you can get a puller on it? I've always been partial to pulling instead of pounding when it comes to this sort of thing, along with some heat applied.
#76
B
bertsmobile1
IT is the same theory as putting a pry bar under the flywheel the striking the crankshaft to remove the flywheel
in the 11 years I have been fixing mowers there has never been a wheel I could not remove without so much as chipping the paint with the exception of one that needed red heat on the wheel to break the rust seal.
It is just a matter of time & patience
The jack & air hammer method can only shift the axel 1/8" to 1/4" at a time, this is the free play in the axel that Wrenchit mentioned earlier and trying to go past the free play will usually cause the clip he mentioned to pop out then an annoying minor job becomes a full transmission strip which as Wrenchit mentioned often ends up in a transmission replacement .
IT is all about time & Patience
Penetrant , time attempt to walk off , more penetrant more time another walking attempt , tighten the clamps when they get loose and do them up with your fingers not a wrench as 2' cheater bar then air hammer, more penetrant tighten the clamps more penetrant, more time , air hammer again.
IT can take hours, it can take days & some have taken better than a week .
Rushing and impatience is what causes disasters like bent wheels & broken gearboxes .
B
bertsmobile1
This is why you put the jacks behind the wheel so they take the impact load , not the gearboxI had this same problem about two years ago. I tried all the options mentioned. I finally drilled out a hole as close as I could get to the wheel hub and used a sawsall to cut the wheel
from the hub. I then used the sawsall to cut the hub away from the axle. I then used a chisel to spread the hub and remove the hub from the axle. I went to the junk dealer and bought a
nearly complete (no engine) Murry with the same size wheels for about the same money that a new wheel would have cost. If you continue to beat on the wheel you will damage the seals, retainers, gears and housing of the transmission. Mine is a MTD Legacy GT1846 1991 Model. Lately I had a flat tire on the same wheel and tried to remove it; but it was stuck
tight again. Note that I did all the necessary stuff to reduce the possibility of this wheel ever getting stuck; I cleaned and buffed the axle, cleaned an buffed the key and keyway, used
antiseeze compound for assembly. Good luck.
IT is the same theory as putting a pry bar under the flywheel the striking the crankshaft to remove the flywheel
in the 11 years I have been fixing mowers there has never been a wheel I could not remove without so much as chipping the paint with the exception of one that needed red heat on the wheel to break the rust seal.
It is just a matter of time & patience
The jack & air hammer method can only shift the axel 1/8" to 1/4" at a time, this is the free play in the axel that Wrenchit mentioned earlier and trying to go past the free play will usually cause the clip he mentioned to pop out then an annoying minor job becomes a full transmission strip which as Wrenchit mentioned often ends up in a transmission replacement .
IT is all about time & Patience
Penetrant , time attempt to walk off , more penetrant more time another walking attempt , tighten the clamps when they get loose and do them up with your fingers not a wrench as 2' cheater bar then air hammer, more penetrant tighten the clamps more penetrant, more time , air hammer again.
IT can take hours, it can take days & some have taken better than a week .
Rushing and impatience is what causes disasters like bent wheels & broken gearboxes .
#77
M
mcspeed
M
mcspeed
That Taryl dude knows his shit …….oxy amphetamine torch LOL.The jacks are pushing the wheel out and the chisel is pushing the axel in
It is done this way to prevent ripping the axel out of the gearbox
10,000 little blows a minute works better than 2 massive big ones a minute with a 10lb hammer
Very important that the end of the chisel is in hard contact with the axel & not bouncing or you will mushroom out the end of the axle .
This is Taryl showing how to do it Walking off wheels
#78
J
jimhustler
J
jimhustler
If you have an air chisel with a point use a punch to make a divit in the center of the axel then use the chisel on the axel while applying outward pressure on the wheel. Good luck.
#79
johniii
johniii
You have a picture of the actual wheel?
#80
C
Curtisun
C
Curtisun
Speaking of rust if you really want to completely remove rust a low cost and very effective way is to use White Vinegar and baking soda. I had a rusted inside of a metal gas tank. It was rust and flaked up bad. I could not buy another tank because this was an antique tiller. I tried using Blaster and wd40 from a gallon can and it just rinsed it out but did not remove the rust. I looked online for a solution and found out how to use it fill area over with white vinegar then add 1/3 of the amount of you added of the vinegar of baking soda. In my case it was to add 3/4 gal of white vinegar and about a box of baking soda. 4 applications of white vinegar/baking soda and let set for about 3 or 4 hrs. each cleaned all the flakes and rust out. Beware though it will boil and foam out when you add the baking soda. It makes some type of low acid that eats rust. I got it all over my hands with no effect, so it does not appear to harm a person.
#81
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If you read the whole post you would see it is an MTD wheel with a bolt retaining the wheel so you pop a cap screw into the bolt hole and use the hammer against it .If you have an air chisel with a point use a punch to make a divit in the center of the axel then use the chisel on the axel while applying outward pressure on the wheel. Good luck.
#82
B
bertsmobile1
So it is the wheel with the 2 flats on the end .
B
bertsmobile1
It is the MTD wheel as mentioned in the original postYou have a picture of the actual wheel?
So it is the wheel with the 2 flats on the end .
#83
D
DRE97
D
DRE97
Did OP, jpokerwinski, get his wheel off?
The picture he provided is of a new wheel, would be helpful if he posted actual pictures of his wheel.
He has been given a lot of helpful advice but doesn't seem to respond.
The picture he provided is of a new wheel, would be helpful if he posted actual pictures of his wheel.
He has been given a lot of helpful advice but doesn't seem to respond.
#84
S
Silviasil
S
Silviasil
use acetylene torch not propane. If no holes in rim, drill two holes and use wheel puller. Oreillys has something called timing gear puller that you can borrow. Was the only way that I was able to get rim off shaft
#85
P
PGB1
P
PGB1
Is it possible to get a gear puller (pulley puller) on the rim? Deflate the tire and grip the metal if the jaws aren't curved enough to pass the tire. You can rent these at many auto parts stores. Use safety eye wear in case the puller shatters.
A three or four-jaw puller gives less chance of bending the rim than a 2-jaw.
I'd tighten the puller a little, loosen & rotate to grip in another spot, then tighten a bit. Repeat & Repeat. Kind of like walking it off.
Plan B: Is there a way to get a pickle fork or a drill chuck removal wedge between the back of the hub and whatever the hub butts to. Then tap the wedge or fork to push the wheel off?
Maybe: I've had good luck with transmission fluid on rust-stuck nuts.
When successful, use anti-seize paste on the mating parts to prevent future sticking.
Best of Luck! You'll get it solved.
Paul
A three or four-jaw puller gives less chance of bending the rim than a 2-jaw.
I'd tighten the puller a little, loosen & rotate to grip in another spot, then tighten a bit. Repeat & Repeat. Kind of like walking it off.
Plan B: Is there a way to get a pickle fork or a drill chuck removal wedge between the back of the hub and whatever the hub butts to. Then tap the wedge or fork to push the wheel off?
Maybe: I've had good luck with transmission fluid on rust-stuck nuts.
When successful, use anti-seize paste on the mating parts to prevent future sticking.
Best of Luck! You'll get it solved.
Paul
#86
johniii
johniii
I asked him for a picture, he puts a generic picture. Not really too hard to take pictures.Did OP, jpokerwinski, get his wheel off?
The picture he provided is of a new wheel, would be helpful if he posted actual pictures of his wheel.
He has been given a lot of helpful advice but doesn't seem to respond.
#87
T
Tucson47
T
Tucson47
Hi,
I saw your post this morning just as I was leaving the house. Hope I'm not too late to help. I had one like that; a 1991 MTD with a 12 HP Briggs.
Do your wheels have two bolt holes (3/8" ?) straight across from each other and only a bolt and washer at the end of the axle shaft? If so, you can use a H/Freight wheel puller kit # 62620 (Pittsburgh line). It is a real nice puller kit and VERY cheap. Put a short bolt, no washer, into axle to protect the threads. You will have to use an electric impact wrench and be patient. Keep both ends of the wheel tube sprayed with penetrant It says not to use an impact wrench, due to thread galling, but you will HAVE to. Keep the large puller plate bolt threads & plate threads covered with anti-seize liberally....often. When I was done, the puller bolt and plate threads were still just like new. I rattled away for a day and a half [on and off of course] 1/8" to 1/4" at a time. If you try to do it manually, the long bolts will twist sideways and it all falls apart. You'll have to get a few longer bolts as the wheel starts coming off. The wheel tube is pretty deep. As the axle shaft starts disappearing into the wheel tube, you'll have to cut a few different lengths of shaft steel just a little smaller diameter the hole in the tube. You may be able to get by with just stacking a few nuts on top of each other 'til it comes off. I was NOT the lucky! Mine was a total bear......inch by inch ALL the way out.
Ohh, Important. Re: The two 3/8 holes in the wheels. To reinforce the backside of the wheel, you'll have to use thick large washers or plates between the nut and the wheel. Otherwise, just the nut and one washer will definitely damage the wheel.
Very best of luck to you.
Mike
I saw your post this morning just as I was leaving the house. Hope I'm not too late to help. I had one like that; a 1991 MTD with a 12 HP Briggs.
Do your wheels have two bolt holes (3/8" ?) straight across from each other and only a bolt and washer at the end of the axle shaft? If so, you can use a H/Freight wheel puller kit # 62620 (Pittsburgh line). It is a real nice puller kit and VERY cheap. Put a short bolt, no washer, into axle to protect the threads. You will have to use an electric impact wrench and be patient. Keep both ends of the wheel tube sprayed with penetrant It says not to use an impact wrench, due to thread galling, but you will HAVE to. Keep the large puller plate bolt threads & plate threads covered with anti-seize liberally....often. When I was done, the puller bolt and plate threads were still just like new. I rattled away for a day and a half [on and off of course] 1/8" to 1/4" at a time. If you try to do it manually, the long bolts will twist sideways and it all falls apart. You'll have to get a few longer bolts as the wheel starts coming off. The wheel tube is pretty deep. As the axle shaft starts disappearing into the wheel tube, you'll have to cut a few different lengths of shaft steel just a little smaller diameter the hole in the tube. You may be able to get by with just stacking a few nuts on top of each other 'til it comes off. I was NOT the lucky! Mine was a total bear......inch by inch ALL the way out.
Ohh, Important. Re: The two 3/8 holes in the wheels. To reinforce the backside of the wheel, you'll have to use thick large washers or plates between the nut and the wheel. Otherwise, just the nut and one washer will definitely damage the wheel.
Very best of luck to you.
Mike
#88
B
bmoore2620
B
bmoore2620
I just removed 4 of them from older model mtd mowers (k-gro, yardman) I tried the sledgehammer and heating too which didn't budge these either, but finally got them off using an air hammer. I put the bolts back in to protect the threads, then had a friend to pull at the wheel while i used the hammer and all 4 came off fairly easy. I did have to use a rethreading tool on one axle after the bolt bent and messed up the threads a little. After i changed the tires and reinstalled the wheels, i cleaned the axles and put a little grease on them to prevent them from being stuck if they need to be removed again.I hope someone could give me some insight or knowledge on how to get a frozen rear wheel off a garden tractor. Specifically it is a. Old MTD .
I have tried everything from PB Blaster to heat to pounding it. Nothing no budge.
My next try would be to get an air chisel to the back of it. But I wanted to see if anybody had any other ideas?
Jim
#89
B
bmoore2620
B
bmoore2620
I forgot to mention before, after the bolts are taken out that holds the wheel on, put them about 3/4 of the way back in and use the air hammer on top of the bolt.I just removed 4 of them from older model mtd mowers (k-gro, yardman) I tried the sledgehammer and heating too which didn't budge these either, but finally got them off using an air hammer. I put the bolts back in to protect the threads, then had a friend to pull at the wheel while i used the hammer and all 4 came off fairly easy. I did have to use a rethreading tool on one axle after the bolt bent and messed up the threads a little. After i changed the tires and reinstalled the wheels, i cleaned the axles and put a little grease on them to prevent them from being stuck if they need to be removed again.
#90
D
DRE97
D
DRE97
OP has one post.
Has gotten a lot of advice with no response. Think we can all assume he is long gone.
No need to waste more of our time trying to help.
Has gotten a lot of advice with no response. Think we can all assume he is long gone.
No need to waste more of our time trying to help.
#91
I
idontfly
I
idontfly
A long time ago a company BLIZZARD TOOLS sold a wheel puller tool that appeared to be a very useful tool.....of course when I went to purchase one I discovered they went out of business.....anyone know of a company that sells a puller speciafically for rotor tillers, tractors, and snow blowers??If you read the whole post you would see it is an MTD wheel with a bolt retaining the wheel so you pop a cap screw into the bolt hole and use the hammer against it .
#92
R
RPM1970
R
RPM1970
I Know you said you have a mtd lawn mower mine was a snow blower mower what I was told is go to a auto zone or etc. and ask for a wheel puller it has 4 jaws and heat the hub the center .and turn the cross tee and it will move out. I did try your way never worked I was able to use the jaws for free use
#93
R
RPM1970
R
RPM1970
f your area has any place that sell parts like auto zone etc they will rent it to you or sell you one I borrowed mine