Tecumseh ohv13 203206a looking for carb

Pumper54

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Glad to see you got the engine running. LOL at the flaming wasp nests, I have heard of people starting old cars that have sat for years and finding the mufflers all full of critter nests and nuts collected by said critters.

Tom
 

dana a

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Dana-

I can see the reason they decided to move the tank under the seat instead of the battery. Its the price of wire vs fuel line.

I have three thoughts on how to remedy this situation, one is to keep tank full as you indicated. That is probably the easiest. Another idea is to move the battery back under seat and co-locate another tank where battery was. Lastly, use a fuel pump. I have a brigs fuel pump which gets pressure/vacuum off the valve cover hose. I would hate to modify the tec valve cover, especially not knowing it would even operate the fuel pump properly.

After making that vid, a few hours later, the carb started acting up again. The morning run proved its got potential, now just need to perfect it.

This is just a fun project, nothing more. I just bought a new blade engagement cable, so we are almost ready to mow.

Rivets posted a carb number and when shopping online, some of those inexpensive carbs showed up, many with prime buttons. After thinking about it some, IF that carb were to physically fit and either properly jetted for the 13hp OR if it had an ajustable high speed jet, a prime button wouldnt be a bad thing actually. I do check the oil an under the hood b4 each mow anyways so I may as well prime it while under the hood.

I would buy one right now if i knew it would physically fit.



Later-
What's the chance that there is still some foreign material still in the carb partially blocking a passage? It would be nice to have it running good with next to no cost. I guess if you wanted to try one of those carbs with the primer you could contact the seller and ask for a center to center measurement on the bolt holes but make sure you both measure from the same spots like outside edge of the left hole to inside edge of the right hole, this is an actual c to c measurement

Dana
 

TonyinNC

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Dana- I am confident there might could still be crud in there. I actually took it apart again and there was grime which i was able to wipe off inside the bowl area. Thing is, this carb appears to be oxidizing itself to death. There appears to be destructive metal chemistry going on inside itself.

I happened to have a rubber O-ring which when stretched a little was able to be used as a bowl gasket this time.

Its running good again, low speed mixture works great unlike some carbs that dont respond at all.

I was able to locate the blade engagement cable for a great price, so that portion is amost done.

I noticed i have NO DC output on the red wire and have 7.5 Volts AC which i will have to throw a diode in, maybe a capacitor too to raise the volts some to keep the battery awake. I happen to have a solar battery charger which might just be the ticket too.

After the cable n charging, the fuel tank issue and I should be mowing .

While kinda still on the carb issue, i do have a tecumseh engine on a 22inch mulcher that is about 7hp. I took a look if that carb might could fit, fortunately not. Its one of those primer button carbs.

I did ask a couple ebay sellers if they could compare carb sizes with me and they said they are simply resellers and item ships from elsewhere.

After that 130hp carb mistake, i am trying to be very careful now. I have parallysis through analysis goin on now!
 

dana a

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Tony
Did you check that ebay carb I posted in post #7. It says it will fit your engine. The number on it says it will replace the number Rivets said your engine took plus in the list of engines it will fit is 203206a. I think it's high priced at 110 samolians.
When it comes to electricity I can do the basics, capacitors and dildos are over my head. Hopefully you'll get all the bugs worked out and get a few rounds of mowing in with it before the season is over.

Dana
 

dana a

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Van, Is that Vietnamese????
 

TonyinNC

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Dana- YES, that carb is exactly what I have, however way too costly. I am looking for a cheapy which may be better overall .

The place I bought the BIG carb from claims I need a # 632774 and that to me just dont look right. I am in hot pursuit using a different search engine and getting possible better info, probably just different info, but my fingers are crossed?
 

dana a

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Tony

I just watched video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDRzX0d9cXs ,where they guy had an acid solution from NAPA that is for cleaning carburetors. It showed he took the bowl and float off but it's unknown if he opened all the passages. He put the carb back on and it run. Maybe that stuff would stop yours from eating it self and clean it real good too.

Dana
 

TonyinNC

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Dana- that youtube fella really cleaned that carb up nice.

I recall a similar circulating system with a nozzle at the gas station I worked at as a kid. It was effective.

I may have to stop by the parts place to see if they have a can of that miracle cleaner.

The inside of mine after cleaning is essentially clean, just not shiny and definitely not smooth. After a day of sitting, the inner walls of the carb (not bowl) form white spots as if oxidation is taking place. Its a reaction of some sort.

I spent a good while chasing carb numbers today. I posted my new brick wall a few minutes ago.

I can see a new project in my future, maybe adapting a brigs carb to the tec.

BTW, i found a 10$ electric low pressure fuel pump which should be able to deliver fuel from the back seat tank area.

Man I need a carb!
 

dana a

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Dana- that youtube fella really cleaned that carb up nice.

I recall a similar circulating system with a nozzle at the gas station I worked at as a kid. It was effective.

I may have to stop by the parts place to see if they have a can of that miracle cleaner.

The inside of mine after cleaning is essentially clean, just not shiny and definitely not smooth. After a day of sitting, the inner walls of the carb (not bowl) form white spots as if oxidation is taking place. Its a reaction of some sort.

I spent a good while chasing carb numbers today. I posted my new brick wall a few minutes ago.

I can see a new project in my future, maybe adapting a brigs carb to the tec.

BTW, i found a 10$ electric low pressure fuel pump which should be able to deliver fuel from the back seat tank area.

Man I need a carb!

Hola Tony

If you want to check out the NAPA carb cleaner you'll have to do it by the part number, 6402. I was able to see it in the video. I couldn't find it by name. When I first found it it was at a NAPA store about 100 miles away at $19.99. At my local store it is $26.99 and that is for a gallon. It might be a different price down your way. I have rigged the incorrect carb onto several engines and I use a piece of 1/2 inch steel between the flanges. Most of the time 1/4 inch bolts will work for me. Some times you can tap the holes in the 1/2 inch plate and run screws in from each side into the plate. 1/2" leaves plenty of meat for the screws to hold onto. Sometimes I had to counter sink the 1/4" hole and then used a tapered screw that would set flush with the plate then a piece of cereal box, AKA gasket, would set on the plate covering the screws and the carb could be attached to the plate. I think this will only work if the mounting flange holes are, one east and west and the other north and south. It would be very hard to make this with out large drill bits and a cutting torch. That's proly clear as mud but it works. Hopefully you can find a carb that just bolts on. Do you have many junk yards near by to shop in? I love junk yards and they usually have plenty of mowers there too.

Dana
 
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