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Hey Everyone-

I am new here and have a question. I thought this would be easy, finding an inexpensive replacement carb for this old engine however things are not looking too good.

The number stamped on the carb is 1556E5K. Strange I cant find info on this carb using those numbers.

I have found that a carb number 632774 is a direct replacement YET when shopping for a replacement online I see some carbs which claim to be a replacement but have a prime button which mine doesnt have.

Due to my application, (restoring a craftsman LT100) one of the cheap no name carbs would be ideal JUST to prove the motor and then the transmission etc are in working order before continuing on throwing $$s into the project.

The insides of the carb look as if the previos owner of this engine stored the engine in the ocean. Its really corroded and is perhaps another project at another time.

Would anyone know of a place to get a carb that is just good enough to do the testing?

BTW, the date code on the engine is 5150 D is this an 2005 engine?

Thank you very much

Tony

Any chance you can clean and rebuilt the carb? Look up soda blasting on You Tube to see how lots of folks clean off/out a carb. Soaking it in a can of cleaner also works.
Tom

Tom- its a good idea to rebuild this carb. I have done a handfull of rebuilds in the past, usually effective and simple enough. Hardest part is getting the gaskets. The welch plugs are stressful because the kits only have one. I should look around to see if the plugs are available separately.

Heading to youtube to checkout the agressive soaking, thanks for the tip?

You can check the engine to see if it will run by giving it a shot of ether. I have started them that way without a carb but it won't run long. If it does run you could pour some gas in the carb and it will run a little longer and maybe be able to check the transmission. I have bought several engine with no carb and found one off a junk yard engine and adapted it to fit on the engine. Attached are pictures, I hope I uploaded them correctly, of my log splitter with an 11 HP Briggs with a 16 HP carb. The elbow in the 2nd picture originally pointed down. I turned it up and made an adapter out of 1/2 inch steel and mounted the 16 HP carb to the elbow. The 3rd picture shows the throttle linkage. The governor spring is at the bottom and the link between the throttle nad the carb is a piece of coat hanger. It been running about 15 years this way. The carb can be off any model engine as long as it is some what close in HP.

Hey Dana-

Thats quite a setup, hope it runs another bunch of yrs for ya.

A larger or smaller carb will probably work reasonably well to great providing it has adjustable main jets I would guess.

I had ordered a carb, however not the right carb or anywhere close to right. The carbs were listed 120, 125, 130, 135 etc. I couldnt imagine the size of a Tecumseh 120hp engine so figured it must be 12.0, 12.5, 13.0, 13.5 etc.
The carb showed up and it was a monster ! It was for a 130hp engine!

Since I posted last, i have cleaned the carb out again. Its still the nastiest thing I ever saw. It ran much beyond the fuel I would schpritz in the carb throat. I felt like the wizard of oz operating the choke and throttle trying to keep it running! In the morning i will need to 'maybe' attach the choke cable instead of running both the throttle AND choke off the one throttle cable. IT WILL DEFINITELY be easier.

I will need to replace the bowl gasket as its extra brittle and leaks a bit.

Tomorrow may be the day I have it running long enough to test the trans.

BTW, thanks for the pics, they came through perfect .

Tony

The direct replacement for your carb is 632650. It does not have a primer.

Tony
Holy crap, I didn't know Tecumseh made big engines either.
I looked up the number Rivets provided and ebay has one that supposedly replaces that number. Your engine number is listed as one it will fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-63...32684-632469-RandysEngineRepair-/131036391625
Tecumseh went out of business and parts are getting hard to find.
When I clean out carbs I use the little wire bread ties to clean out those little passages. Also the double wire tie on the little bag of Hostess donuts works good too as it is a little heavier wire. Then blow them out with carb cleaner and air, just an FYI.
Good luck
Dana

Hey Rivets and Dana-

Thanks for the carb info, I looked on the net and found several and good prices.

The carb I have has two linkages, one for the choke and one for the throttle.

I see some carbs with only what appears to be the throttle mechanism, how do ya go about choking that one?

I cleaned the original card aggressively last nite.

This morning I put it in and ran all over the yard with it. It proved the hydo trans is good!

Wish i had a vid when the exhaust started smoking really bad when I first fired it up. It was oil and other gunk. Then flames and pieces were coming out. I had to scramble to get the mower out of the garage in case it was gonna go up in flames big time.

I didnt want to hose a hot engine off so i used my leather gloves to smolder it.

It smoked for a long time thereafter.

When it cooled, i cranked it up again and burning pieces of a wasps nest were shooting out of the exhaust! What a releif it wasnt buring engine parts.

I made a vid of it running and driving through the yard. I am sure my tempory water bottle fuel tank will bring a few comments?.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbsayk5vdp1gyms/Video Sep 08, 10 59 17 AM.mov?dl=0

Reason for the water bottle is because The mower tank is under the seat. The bottom of the tank is 13 inches off the ground. The inlet to the carb is almost 16 inches. The blown brigs engine had a fuel pump so the elevation didnt matter.

Now that this engine has proven itself today, i will get a gasket kit for the carb and modify the fuel tank some. I need to test how much fuel I need to add to existing tank to have fuel flow at carb level. Three inches is the answer?.

Sorry for the typos, i sure know how to spell, just cant type well on this fone.

Have a good evening

Tony

I believe when there is only one cable full throttle chokes the engine and when it starts you pull the throttle back to adjust the engine speed. From the looks of things you don't need a carb. It looked like it ran really good. Are you ready to do some mowing? What are you going to do about the gas tank? Just keep it full?

Dana-

I can see the reason they decided to move the tank under the seat instead of the battery. Its the price of wire vs fuel line.

I have three thoughts on how to remedy this situation, one is to keep tank full as you indicated. That is probably the easiest. Another idea is to move the battery back under seat and co-locate another tank where battery was. Lastly, use a fuel pump. I have a brigs fuel pump which gets pressure/vacuum off the valve cover hose. I would hate to modify the tec valve cover, especially not knowing it would even operate the fuel pump properly.

After making that vid, a few hours later, the carb started acting up again. The morning run proved its got potential, now just need to perfect it.

This is just a fun project, nothing more. I just bought a new blade engagement cable, so we are almost ready to mow.

Rivets posted a carb number and when shopping online, some of those inexpensive carbs showed up, many with prime buttons. After thinking about it some, IF that carb were to physically fit and either properly jetted for the 13hp OR if it had an ajustable high speed jet, a prime button wouldnt be a bad thing actually. I do check the oil an under the hood b4 each mow anyways so I may as well prime it while under the hood.

I would buy one right now if i knew it would physically fit.

Later-

Glad to see you got the engine running. LOL at the flaming wasp nests, I have heard of people starting old cars that have sat for years and finding the mufflers all full of critter nests and nuts collected by said critters.

Tom

TonyinNC said:

Dana-

I can see the reason they decided to move the tank under the seat instead of the battery. Its the price of wire vs fuel line.

I have three thoughts on how to remedy this situation, one is to keep tank full as you indicated. That is probably the easiest. Another idea is to move the battery back under seat and co-locate another tank where battery was. Lastly, use a fuel pump. I have a brigs fuel pump which gets pressure/vacuum off the valve cover hose. I would hate to modify the tec valve cover, especially not knowing it would even operate the fuel pump properly.

After making that vid, a few hours later, the carb started acting up again. The morning run proved its got potential, now just need to perfect it.

This is just a fun project, nothing more. I just bought a new blade engagement cable, so we are almost ready to mow.

Rivets posted a carb number and when shopping online, some of those inexpensive carbs showed up, many with prime buttons. After thinking about it some, IF that carb were to physically fit and either properly jetted for the 13hp OR if it had an ajustable high speed jet, a prime button wouldnt be a bad thing actually. I do check the oil an under the hood b4 each mow anyways so I may as well prime it while under the hood.

I would buy one right now if i knew it would physically fit.



Later-

Click to expand...

What's the chance that there is still some foreign material still in the carb partially blocking a passage? It would be nice to have it running good with next to no cost. I guess if you wanted to try one of those carbs with the primer you could contact the seller and ask for a center to center measurement on the bolt holes but make sure you both measure from the same spots like outside edge of the left hole to inside edge of the right hole, this is an actual c to c measurement

Dana

Dana- I am confident there might could still be crud in there. I actually took it apart again and there was grime which i was able to wipe off inside the bowl area. Thing is, this carb appears to be oxidizing itself to death. There appears to be destructive metal chemistry going on inside itself.

I happened to have a rubber O-ring which when stretched a little was able to be used as a bowl gasket this time.

Its running good again, low speed mixture works great unlike some carbs that dont respond at all.

I was able to locate the blade engagement cable for a great price, so that portion is amost done.

I noticed i have NO DC output on the red wire and have 7.5 Volts AC which i will have to throw a diode in, maybe a capacitor too to raise the volts some to keep the battery awake. I happen to have a solar battery charger which might just be the ticket too.

After the cable n charging, the fuel tank issue and I should be mowing .

While kinda still on the carb issue, i do have a tecumseh engine on a 22inch mulcher that is about 7hp. I took a look if that carb might could fit, fortunately not. Its one of those primer button carbs.

I did ask a couple ebay sellers if they could compare carb sizes with me and they said they are simply resellers and item ships from elsewhere.

After that 130hp carb mistake, i am trying to be very careful now. I have parallysis through analysis goin on now!

Tony
Did you check that ebay carb I posted in post #7. It says it will fit your engine. The number on it says it will replace the number Rivets said your engine took plus in the list of engines it will fit is 203206a. I think it's high priced at 110 samolians.
When it comes to electricity I can do the basics, capacitors and dildos are over my head. Hopefully you'll get all the bugs worked out and get a few rounds of mowing in with it before the season is over.

Dana

Van, Is that Vietnamese????

Dana- YES, that carb is exactly what I have, however way too costly. I am looking for a cheapy which may be better overall .

The place I bought the BIG carb from claims I need a # 632774 and that to me just dont look right. I am in hot pursuit using a different search engine and getting possible better info, probably just different info, but my fingers are crossed?

Tony

I just watched video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDRzX0d9cXs ,where they guy had an acid solution from NAPA that is for cleaning carburetors. It showed he took the bowl and float off but it's unknown if he opened all the passages. He put the carb back on and it run. Maybe that stuff would stop yours from eating it self and clean it real good too.

Dana

Dana- that youtube fella really cleaned that carb up nice.

I recall a similar circulating system with a nozzle at the gas station I worked at as a kid. It was effective.

I may have to stop by the parts place to see if they have a can of that miracle cleaner.

The inside of mine after cleaning is essentially clean, just not shiny and definitely not smooth. After a day of sitting, the inner walls of the carb (not bowl) form white spots as if oxidation is taking place. Its a reaction of some sort.

I spent a good while chasing carb numbers today. I posted my new brick wall a few minutes ago.

I can see a new project in my future, maybe adapting a brigs carb to the tec.

BTW, i found a 10$ electric low pressure fuel pump which should be able to deliver fuel from the back seat tank area.

Man I need a carb!

TonyinNC said:

Dana- that youtube fella really cleaned that carb up nice.

I recall a similar circulating system with a nozzle at the gas station I worked at as a kid. It was effective.

I may have to stop by the parts place to see if they have a can of that miracle cleaner.

The inside of mine after cleaning is essentially clean, just not shiny and definitely not smooth. After a day of sitting, the inner walls of the carb (not bowl) form white spots as if oxidation is taking place. Its a reaction of some sort.

I spent a good while chasing carb numbers today. I posted my new brick wall a few minutes ago.

I can see a new project in my future, maybe adapting a brigs carb to the tec.

BTW, i found a 10$ electric low pressure fuel pump which should be able to deliver fuel from the back seat tank area.

Man I need a carb!

Click to expand...

Hola Tony

If you want to check out the NAPA carb cleaner you'll have to do it by the part number, 6402. I was able to see it in the video. I couldn't find it by name. When I first found it it was at a NAPA store about 100 miles away at $19.99. At my local store it is $26.99 and that is for a gallon. It might be a different price down your way. I have rigged the incorrect carb onto several engines and I use a piece of 1/2 inch steel between the flanges. Most of the time 1/4 inch bolts will work for me. Some times you can tap the holes in the 1/2 inch plate and run screws in from each side into the plate. 1/2" leaves plenty of meat for the screws to hold onto. Sometimes I had to counter sink the 1/4" hole and then used a tapered screw that would set flush with the plate then a piece of cereal box, AKA gasket, would set on the plate covering the screws and the carb could be attached to the plate. I think this will only work if the mounting flange holes are, one east and west and the other north and south. It would be very hard to make this with out large drill bits and a cutting torch. That's proly clear as mud but it works. Hopefully you can find a carb that just bolts on. Do you have many junk yards near by to shop in? I love junk yards and they usually have plenty of mowers there too.

Dana