T210 blade removal

Curt1940

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Some mower manufacturers tighten the blade bolts so tight that it requires a impact wrench to loosen them, I had purchased a new Bad Boy mower year before last (Since sold it) and I wanted to install some mulcher blades and had to use a 4' cheater bar to remove the original blades, they were way over the torque specs given. I usually use never seize on the blade bolts (I know some folks disagree but I've never had a problem with them getting loose) when torqued correctly.

Curt
 

Ronni

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Right hand threads on most Craftsmen units. I suggest you block the blade and pull out your 1/2” breaker bar. Using a good penetrating oil and some heat will be your friend.
I agree with the above and would add taking a small piece of 2”x4” to block the blades while you are working on removing bolts on the blades.
 

wingstrut

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It sounds to me like you guys need to remove your blades more often. Ha!Ha!
 

wingstrut

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I forgot to mention if that is an air operated impact put a little oil in where the air hose connects and that will raise the power.
 

ILENGINE

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Some mower manufacturers tighten the blade bolts so tight that it requires a impact wrench to loosen them, I had purchased a new Bad Boy mower year before last (Since sold it) and I wanted to install some mulcher blades and had to use a 4' cheater bar to remove the original blades, they were way over the torque specs given. I usually use never seize on the blade bolts (I know some folks disagree but I've never had a problem with them getting loose) when torqued correctly.

Curt
Several things come onto play with blade removal. In the case of the OP the original blades are torqued at 80-100 lb/ft from the factory. time, dirt in the threads, and rust will appear to increase the torque on the nuts when trying to remove them. 600 lb/ft is not unusual for those nuts after being used for even part of the mowing season.

Worked on a Ferris years ago that the blade bolt/nut would self tighten. You could put the nuts on the blade bolts with your fingers without the use of a wrench in March and when it could come back for blade sharpening in July it would take 1 inch 1600 lb/ft impact to remove the nuts because the 900 lb/ft 3/4 wouldn't begin to even turn the nuts.
 

Rivets

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If anyone has worked on rotary cutters will know how much torque will change under use. More than once I’ve seen those nuts will not come loose with penetrating oil, glowing red heat and a 1” impact. At least once every season will have one which will need to be cut off.
 

wingstrut

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All nuts or bolts are threaded so they stay tight depending on the rotation or power applied, Chrysler used left hand threads on their wheel lugs and I think they figured that they didn't need to do that. If you torque your wheel nuts they won't come loose.
I always use (never seize) on my mower blade nuts, been mowing for 60 years and never had one come loose I even use it on my spark plugs, use it and I don't care how tight or how long the nut has been on it will come off a lot easier.
 

bertsmobile1

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All nuts or bolts are threaded so they stay tight depending on the rotation or power applied, Chrysler used left hand threads on their wheel lugs and I think they figured that they didn't need to do that. If you torque your wheel nuts they won't come loose.
I always use (never seize) on my mower blade nuts, been mowing for 60 years and never had one come loose I even use it on my spark plugs, use it and I don't care how tight or how long the nut has been on it will come off a lot easier.
I have a couple of commercial customers who have council contracts to cut road verges
They never sharpen their blades because of all of the junk you find on road verges and only ever replace them when so much of the flute has broken off the grass no longer discharges from the chute
Those blades have worn all of the cutting bevel off so there is a lot of resistance when they chew through the grass and I always remove the nuts with a nut cracker and for the bolts, cut the head off , after which they will unscrew by hand but like Rivets , the 1" impact running off the jack hammer compressor does not even look at shifting them.
 

StarTech

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Here is question for those using the 1" impacts. What size air line and fittings are you using? Even though larger impacts are being used if the CFM is not there they are no better than a smaller impact.

Here I use an Aircat 1150K twin hammer. When I first got it, it was a major disappointment. Couldn't even remove lug nuts tighten to 60 ft/lbs. Then I temporary installed a gauge at the impact. Even though I had a standing pressure of 125 psi when pull the trigger it dropped all the way to 20 psi. In my case it was the couplers and plugs. They were too resistive for two reasons. First they were supposedly M style versions but when I spec'd them they weren't meeting the M style specs. They were btw HFT versions. Once I changed all the fittings out to V style Hi flow fittings it resolved the pressure drop problem on that 100 ft 3/8 air line. No longer hearing the air line refilling. Once resolved I had the full working torque available from the impact. I very seldom ever need to go above the lowest power setting of impact. I even remove those axle nuts that are tighten to 300 ft/lb and are thread distorted version so thread are already royally screwed up.

If I remember correctly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts require at least a 1/2 inch air line to help keep the CFMs up to spec.
 

wingstrut

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Here is question for those using the 1" impacts. What size air line and fittings are you using? Even though larger impacts are being used if the CFM is not there they are no better than a smaller impact.

Here I use an Aircat 1150K twin hammer. When I first got it, it was a major disappointment. Couldn't even remove lug nuts tighten to 60 ft/lbs. Then I temporary installed a gauge at the impact. Even though I had a standing pressure of 125 psi when pull the trigger it dropped all the way to 20 psi. In my case it was the couplers and plugs. They were too resistive for two reasons. First they were supposedly M style versions but when I spec'd them they weren't meeting the M style specs. They were btw HFT versions. Once I changed all the fittings out to V style Hi flow fittings it resolved the pressure drop problem on that 100 ft 3/8 air line. No longer hearing the air line refilling. Once resolved I had the full working torque available from the impact. I very seldom ever need to go above the lowest power setting of impact. I even remove those axle nuts that are tighten to 300 ft/lb and are thread distorted version so thread are already royally screwed up.

If I remember correctly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts require at least a 1/2 inch air line to help keep the CFMs up to spec.
BINGO! As the old saying goes you get out of it what put into it.
 
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