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T210 blade removal
#1
C
Curt1940
C
Curt1940
I'm trying to help my sister-in-law replace the blades on her Craftsman T210 mower, model CMXGRAM 1130043. I have removed the deck and flipped it over, but having no luck removing the blade nuts. Are they right hand or left hand threads, different answers from different people. I am using a 1/2" impact wrench (very old) and don't know if it is as strong as it used to be. Any suggestion on getting the blades off. The mower is about 3 years old I think, it looks like it's much older and I think this is the first service it's had. Thanks
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Right hand threads on most Craftsmen units. I suggest you block the blade and pull out your 1/2” breaker bar. Using a good penetrating oil and some heat will be your friend.
#4
C
Curt1940
C
Curt1940
Thanks Rivets, I put some penetrating oil on the nuts last night and I will try heating them up today and see if they will break loose.
#5
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
Before the oil and heat try my red neck impact .
Tether a box wrench that's on the nut . With a Micky Mantle swing using a 2x4 about 3 ft long , smack the end of the wrench .
Tether a box wrench that's on the nut . With a Micky Mantle swing using a 2x4 about 3 ft long , smack the end of the wrench .
#6
C
Curt1940
C
Curt1940
Well, I finally got the blades off, even with a 4' cheater pipe on the wrench along with penetrating oil & heat the nuts would not budge. I had to use a grinder with a 1/8" blade to cut the nuts along side the shaft without damaging the threads. Then used a chisel to open the nuts so I could remove them. Ordered new blades and shaft nuts along with a maintenance kit for the engine. Looks as though the oil had never been changed and the air filter was completely plugged. Also replaced the battery as it would not take a charge. I felt obligated to help my sister-in-law as she is a 80 year old widow. She couldn't find any dealers (don't have any local - a very small town) that would work on the mower that was not purchased from them. Hopefully it will now last a little longer without any major service. Thanks for the replies.
Curt
Curt
#7
Tiger Small Engine
Glad you got blade off. I had to cut a blade bolt just this week.
For really tight blade bolts I use PB Blaster, a breaker bar, cheater pipe, and wood to block the blade. Always use a 6 point socket over a 12 point.
Tiger Small Engine
Well, I finally got the blades off, even with a 4' cheater pipe on the wrench along with penetrating oil & heat the nuts would not budge. I had to use a grinder with a 1/8" blade to cut the nuts along side the shaft without damaging the threads. Then used a chisel to open the nuts so I could remove them. Ordered new blades and shaft nuts along with a maintenance kit for the engine. Looks as though the oil had never been changed and the air filter was completely plugged. Also replaced the battery as it would not take a charge. I felt obligated to help my sister-in-law as she is a 80 year old widow. She couldn't find any dealers (don't have any local - a very small town) that would work on the mower that was not purchased from them. Hopefully it will now last a little longer without any major service. Thanks for the replies.
Curt
Glad you got blade off. I had to cut a blade bolt just this week.
For really tight blade bolts I use PB Blaster, a breaker bar, cheater pipe, and wood to block the blade. Always use a 6 point socket over a 12 point.
#9
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Days like this is the reason that I purchased my high torque Dewalt impact a couple years ago.. My alternative actions include the use of the 39 inch long 3/4 breaker bar that I normally use to remove large high torque nuts.
#10
StarTech
StarTech
There are times even a 1300 ft-lb twin hammer impact has trouble getting things to separate. Partly because things have movement to offset the impacts. Otherwords the blade assembly can't be allow any movement. I got Turf Tiger that I have to use a 5 ft pull bar on get to loosen the blade bolt nuts. I look for anytime that bar to break. Now of these are the type that self tighten; unlike, the keyed MTD spindle shafts.
As for MTD flange nuts there have been a few times that I thought I was going them off too. But several were cross threaded on using impacts. That why I have to re-thread some spindle shafts.
As for MTD flange nuts there have been a few times that I thought I was going them off too. But several were cross threaded on using impacts. That why I have to re-thread some spindle shafts.
#11
C
Curt1940
C
Curt1940
Some mower manufacturers tighten the blade bolts so tight that it requires a impact wrench to loosen them, I had purchased a new Bad Boy mower year before last (Since sold it) and I wanted to install some mulcher blades and had to use a 4' cheater bar to remove the original blades, they were way over the torque specs given. I usually use never seize on the blade bolts (I know some folks disagree but I've never had a problem with them getting loose) when torqued correctly.
Curt
Curt
#12
R
Ronni
R
Ronni
I agree with the above and would add taking a small piece of 2”x4” to block the blades while you are working on removing bolts on the blades.Right hand threads on most Craftsmen units. I suggest you block the blade and pull out your 1/2” breaker bar. Using a good penetrating oil and some heat will be your friend.
#14
W
wingstrut
W
wingstrut
I forgot to mention if that is an air operated impact put a little oil in where the air hose connects and that will raise the power.
#15
I
ILENGINE
Worked on a Ferris years ago that the blade bolt/nut would self tighten. You could put the nuts on the blade bolts with your fingers without the use of a wrench in March and when it could come back for blade sharpening in July it would take 1 inch 1600 lb/ft impact to remove the nuts because the 900 lb/ft 3/4 wouldn't begin to even turn the nuts.
I
ILENGINE
Several things come onto play with blade removal. In the case of the OP the original blades are torqued at 80-100 lb/ft from the factory. time, dirt in the threads, and rust will appear to increase the torque on the nuts when trying to remove them. 600 lb/ft is not unusual for those nuts after being used for even part of the mowing season.Some mower manufacturers tighten the blade bolts so tight that it requires a impact wrench to loosen them, I had purchased a new Bad Boy mower year before last (Since sold it) and I wanted to install some mulcher blades and had to use a 4' cheater bar to remove the original blades, they were way over the torque specs given. I usually use never seize on the blade bolts (I know some folks disagree but I've never had a problem with them getting loose) when torqued correctly.
Curt
Worked on a Ferris years ago that the blade bolt/nut would self tighten. You could put the nuts on the blade bolts with your fingers without the use of a wrench in March and when it could come back for blade sharpening in July it would take 1 inch 1600 lb/ft impact to remove the nuts because the 900 lb/ft 3/4 wouldn't begin to even turn the nuts.
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If anyone has worked on rotary cutters will know how much torque will change under use. More than once I’ve seen those nuts will not come loose with penetrating oil, glowing red heat and a 1” impact. At least once every season will have one which will need to be cut off.
#17
W
wingstrut
W
wingstrut
All nuts or bolts are threaded so they stay tight depending on the rotation or power applied, Chrysler used left hand threads on their wheel lugs and I think they figured that they didn't need to do that. If you torque your wheel nuts they won't come loose.
I always use (never seize) on my mower blade nuts, been mowing for 60 years and never had one come loose I even use it on my spark plugs, use it and I don't care how tight or how long the nut has been on it will come off a lot easier.
I always use (never seize) on my mower blade nuts, been mowing for 60 years and never had one come loose I even use it on my spark plugs, use it and I don't care how tight or how long the nut has been on it will come off a lot easier.
#18
B
bertsmobile1
They never sharpen their blades because of all of the junk you find on road verges and only ever replace them when so much of the flute has broken off the grass no longer discharges from the chute
Those blades have worn all of the cutting bevel off so there is a lot of resistance when they chew through the grass and I always remove the nuts with a nut cracker and for the bolts, cut the head off , after which they will unscrew by hand but like Rivets , the 1" impact running off the jack hammer compressor does not even look at shifting them.
B
bertsmobile1
I have a couple of commercial customers who have council contracts to cut road vergesAll nuts or bolts are threaded so they stay tight depending on the rotation or power applied, Chrysler used left hand threads on their wheel lugs and I think they figured that they didn't need to do that. If you torque your wheel nuts they won't come loose.
I always use (never seize) on my mower blade nuts, been mowing for 60 years and never had one come loose I even use it on my spark plugs, use it and I don't care how tight or how long the nut has been on it will come off a lot easier.
They never sharpen their blades because of all of the junk you find on road verges and only ever replace them when so much of the flute has broken off the grass no longer discharges from the chute
Those blades have worn all of the cutting bevel off so there is a lot of resistance when they chew through the grass and I always remove the nuts with a nut cracker and for the bolts, cut the head off , after which they will unscrew by hand but like Rivets , the 1" impact running off the jack hammer compressor does not even look at shifting them.
#19
StarTech
StarTech
Here is question for those using the 1" impacts. What size air line and fittings are you using? Even though larger impacts are being used if the CFM is not there they are no better than a smaller impact.
Here I use an Aircat 1150K twin hammer. When I first got it, it was a major disappointment. Couldn't even remove lug nuts tighten to 60 ft/lbs. Then I temporary installed a gauge at the impact. Even though I had a standing pressure of 125 psi when pull the trigger it dropped all the way to 20 psi. In my case it was the couplers and plugs. They were too resistive for two reasons. First they were supposedly M style versions but when I spec'd them they weren't meeting the M style specs. They were btw HFT versions. Once I changed all the fittings out to V style Hi flow fittings it resolved the pressure drop problem on that 100 ft 3/8 air line. No longer hearing the air line refilling. Once resolved I had the full working torque available from the impact. I very seldom ever need to go above the lowest power setting of impact. I even remove those axle nuts that are tighten to 300 ft/lb and are thread distorted version so thread are already royally screwed up.
If I remember correctly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts require at least a 1/2 inch air line to help keep the CFMs up to spec.
Here I use an Aircat 1150K twin hammer. When I first got it, it was a major disappointment. Couldn't even remove lug nuts tighten to 60 ft/lbs. Then I temporary installed a gauge at the impact. Even though I had a standing pressure of 125 psi when pull the trigger it dropped all the way to 20 psi. In my case it was the couplers and plugs. They were too resistive for two reasons. First they were supposedly M style versions but when I spec'd them they weren't meeting the M style specs. They were btw HFT versions. Once I changed all the fittings out to V style Hi flow fittings it resolved the pressure drop problem on that 100 ft 3/8 air line. No longer hearing the air line refilling. Once resolved I had the full working torque available from the impact. I very seldom ever need to go above the lowest power setting of impact. I even remove those axle nuts that are tighten to 300 ft/lb and are thread distorted version so thread are already royally screwed up.
If I remember correctly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts require at least a 1/2 inch air line to help keep the CFMs up to spec.
#20
W
wingstrut
W
wingstrut
BINGO! As the old saying goes you get out of it what put into it.Here is question for those using the 1" impacts. What size air line and fittings are you using? Even though larger impacts are being used if the CFM is not there they are no better than a smaller impact.
Here I use an Aircat 1150K twin hammer. When I first got it, it was a major disappointment. Couldn't even remove lug nuts tighten to 60 ft/lbs. Then I temporary installed a gauge at the impact. Even though I had a standing pressure of 125 psi when pull the trigger it dropped all the way to 20 psi. In my case it was the couplers and plugs. They were too resistive for two reasons. First they were supposedly M style versions but when I spec'd them they weren't meeting the M style specs. They were btw HFT versions. Once I changed all the fittings out to V style Hi flow fittings it resolved the pressure drop problem on that 100 ft 3/8 air line. No longer hearing the air line refilling. Once resolved I had the full working torque available from the impact. I very seldom ever need to go above the lowest power setting of impact. I even remove those axle nuts that are tighten to 300 ft/lb and are thread distorted version so thread are already royally screwed up.
If I remember correctly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts require at least a 1/2 inch air line to help keep the CFMs up to spec.
#21
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Size of the air line makes little difference, it’s the size of the connector which you need to look at when using the bigger guns. Most small engine shops use 1/4” quick disconnects, but as Star said you must use 3/8” connectors when running 3/4” or 1” impact guns.
#22
StarTech
StarTech
The problem arises as the Milton M 1/4 NPT style fittings has only a 3/16 through hole as where the Milton V 1/4 NPT style fittings has a 17/64-9/32 through hole. I know 3/32 does not sound like a lot until you at the actual holes compare side by side.
Now the Aircat 1150K sips air at 8 cfm but using the M style plugs and couplers on a 100 ft run the air line set could not keep up with even the 8 cfm demand. Once I changed over to the V style the cfm supplied was more than enough even at the end of a 100 ft 3/8" line. Also you must make the even the air line fittings are as large as possible. I have found some 3/8 air line end fittings to be overly restrictive.
Now the Aircat 1150K sips air at 8 cfm but using the M style plugs and couplers on a 100 ft run the air line set could not keep up with even the 8 cfm demand. Once I changed over to the V style the cfm supplied was more than enough even at the end of a 100 ft 3/8" line. Also you must make the even the air line fittings are as large as possible. I have found some 3/8 air line end fittings to be overly restrictive.
#23
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Just did annual maint on a cub cadet Z that was serviced by the dealer last year. Had to almost destroy the oil filter to get it loose. Spark plugs were in WAY to tight. Washers on plugs were smashed way too flat. Impact finally got the blade nuts off but had to replace the nuts because the threads were almost stripped. Didn't try to remove the drain plug as I use an extractor. Great job by the professionals at the dealer.
#24
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Lefts see. Oil filter at 100 lb/in. Spark plugs at 18 lb/ft Blade nuts at 80-100 lb/ft
#25
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I guess I could get a job at the dealership if I started lifting weights.
#26
Tiger Small Engine
I get a few blade bolts each year that require a lot of effort and patience to remove. You have to remember that blade bolts on a mower are self tightening. The longer you leave them on in between sharpening, and the more stuff you hit, the harder they will be to take off. When you are using a breaker bar, penetrating oil, heat, and a 5’ cheater pipe, things are getting serious. So my question to the shop owners is this. Do you charge the customer extra to remove blade bolts that take say an hour to remove vs 30 seconds?
Tiger Small Engine
Some mower manufacturers tighten the blade bolts so tight that it requires a impact wrench to loosen them, I had purchased a new Bad Boy mower year before last (Since sold it) and I wanted to install some mulcher blades and had to use a 4' cheater bar to remove the original blades, they were way over the torque specs given. I usually use never seize on the blade bolts (I know some folks disagree but I've never had a problem with them getting loose) when torqued correctly.
Curt
I get a few blade bolts each year that require a lot of effort and patience to remove. You have to remember that blade bolts on a mower are self tightening. The longer you leave them on in between sharpening, and the more stuff you hit, the harder they will be to take off. When you are using a breaker bar, penetrating oil, heat, and a 5’ cheater pipe, things are getting serious. So my question to the shop owners is this. Do you charge the customer extra to remove blade bolts that take say an hour to remove vs 30 seconds?
#27
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Most of the homeowner mowers use some type of star center so they are not self tightening. When a cust hits something and twists the blade on the star and makes it super tight it's going to get a new spindle and blade so I don't care how bad the impact tears it up getting it off. In the last 5 years or so I haven't had a blade nut or bolt the impact couldn't take ooff. Even the self tightening ones. 3/8" air line, high flow couplers, 150 psi, 1/2" IR2235 impact.
#28
StarTech
Boy that Ingersoll Rand is air hungry @ 24cfm and a lot noisier @ 98dB vs the Aircat @ 8cfm and 86 db. Maybe is why I can use my Aircat with 10 cu ft air tank to remove screws in the field. And the Aircat is so much easier on the ears both in the shop and for the neighbors.
StarTech
When you know what you are doing and have the right equipment, it really don't take an hour. Maybe 5-10 minutes per spindle.I get a few blade bolts each year that require a lot of effort and patience to remove. You have to remember that blade bolts on a mower are self tightening. The longer you leave them on in between sharpening, and the more stuff you hit, the harder they will be to take off. When you are using a breaker bar, penetrating oil, heat, and a 5’ cheater pipe, things are getting serious. So my question to the shop owners is this. Do you charge the customer extra to remove blade bolts that take say an hour to remove vs 30 seconds?
Yes homeowners are bad about not getting the blades mounted correctly which lead to problems that must be corrected.Most of the homeowner mowers use some type of star center so they are not self tightening. When a cust hits something and twists the blade on the star and makes it super tight it's going to get a new spindle and blade so I don't care how bad the impact tears it up getting it off. In the last 5 years or so I haven't had a blade nut or bolt the impact couldn't take ooff. Even the self tightening ones. 3/8" air line, high flow couplers, 150 psi, 1/2" IR2235 impact.
Boy that Ingersoll Rand is air hungry @ 24cfm and a lot noisier @ 98dB vs the Aircat @ 8cfm and 86 db. Maybe is why I can use my Aircat with 10 cu ft air tank to remove screws in the field. And the Aircat is so much easier on the ears both in the shop and for the neighbors.
#29
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I have the battery HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and a 3/8 Milwaukee impact that handles the day to day stuff. I only bust out the IR air gun for the stupid tight type stuff. If the HF doesn't take it off in 10 seconds I get the IR. Usually takes longer to get it out and hookup the air line than it takes to solve the problem.
#30
StarTech
It sorta like needing to crimp a battery cable. It takes time to get the crimper out and back up which is only needed for less a minute crimping operation.
StarTech
Kinda wish I had funds available to have extra equipment but I have try to buy what works all around here. And yes most times it takes longer to get things out then it take to resolve a problem.I have the battery HF Earthquake 1/2 impact and a 3/8 Milwaukee impact that handles the day to day stuff. I only bust out the IR air gun for the stupid tight type stuff. If the HF doesn't take it off in 10 seconds I get the IR. Usually takes longer to get it out and hookup the air line than it takes to solve the problem.
It sorta like needing to crimp a battery cable. It takes time to get the crimper out and back up which is only needed for less a minute crimping operation.
#31
Tiger Small Engine
So let’s say you actually have to extract a bolt, or you have a blade bolt, or any bolt for that matter, and it takes you roughly an hour to extract or remove vs a few seconds. Do you charge the customer an hour’s worth of labor, or eat it? I have battery, electric, and air impacts. I know how to remove and extract bolts. I am aware of bowtie and star blades. Work on a lot of commercial equipment as well that doesn’t use star pattern.
Thanks in advance for you input.
Tiger Small Engine
Kinda wish I had funds available to have extra equipment but I have try to buy what works all around here. And yes most times it takes longer to get things out then it take to resolve a problem.
It sorta like needing to crimp a battery cable. It takes time to get the crimper out and back up which is only needed for less a minute crimping operation.
So let’s say you actually have to extract a bolt, or you have a blade bolt, or any bolt for that matter, and it takes you roughly an hour to extract or remove vs a few seconds. Do you charge the customer an hour’s worth of labor, or eat it? I have battery, electric, and air impacts. I know how to remove and extract bolts. I am aware of bowtie and star blades. Work on a lot of commercial equipment as well that doesn’t use star pattern.
Thanks in advance for you input.
#32
StarTech
And which screw it is sometimes you can't extract but have cut it out using carbide bits as I did on a tiller last Summer to replace a head bolt. Briggs head bolts around the exhaust tends to gall in place on old L heads.
StarTech
Yes then you charge for the time. Maybe not for full amount but it is labor time that would be used no matter what shop it is in. I had to re hex a Gravely spindle bolt last year that took 30-45 minutes so I could remove it. Darn owner tried using a 12 pt socket instead of 6 pt. Spindles themselves were over $300 ea so even a $65 labor charge is cheaper than replacing the spindle. I went from a normal 15/16 hex to a 7/8 hex. Of course I took my time to hex the right shape.So let’s say you actually have to extract a bolt, or you have a blade bolt, or any bolt for that matter, and it takes you roughly an hour to extract or remove vs a few seconds. Do you charge the customer an hour’s worth of labor, or eat it? I have battery, electric, and air impacts. I know how to remove and extract bolts. I am aware of bowtie and star blades. Work on a lot of commercial equipment as well that doesn’t use star pattern.
Thanks in advance for you input.
And which screw it is sometimes you can't extract but have cut it out using carbide bits as I did on a tiller last Summer to replace a head bolt. Briggs head bolts around the exhaust tends to gall in place on old L heads.
#33
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
IT is a 4 cylinder Perkins engine Boomwade compressor that used to run 4 jack hammers and has 1" hoses which are a real PIA as the gun does not have a rotating inlet nozel and to have one fitted to the hose was going to be $ 200Here is question for those using the 1" impacts. What size air line and fittings are you using? Even though larger impacts are being used if the CFM is not there they are no better than a smaller impact.
Here I use an Aircat 1150K twin hammer. When I first got it, it was a major disappointment. Couldn't even remove lug nuts tighten to 60 ft/lbs. Then I temporary installed a gauge at the impact. Even though I had a standing pressure of 125 psi when pull the trigger it dropped all the way to 20 psi. In my case it was the couplers and plugs. They were too resistive for two reasons. First they were supposedly M style versions but when I spec'd them they weren't meeting the M style specs. They were btw HFT versions. Once I changed all the fittings out to V style Hi flow fittings it resolved the pressure drop problem on that 100 ft 3/8 air line. No longer hearing the air line refilling. Once resolved I had the full working torque available from the impact. I very seldom ever need to go above the lowest power setting of impact. I even remove those axle nuts that are tighten to 300 ft/lb and are thread distorted version so thread are already royally screwed up.
If I remember correctly 3/4 and 1 inch impacts require at least a 1/2 inch air line to help keep the CFMs up to spec.
#34
B
bertsmobile1
What you loose on the swings you gain on the round about.
If they do not come off in about 5 minutes I chop the head off the bolts or use a nut splitter on nuts then charge the customer the mower companies price to replace the bolt I get from Boltmaster I keep most common blade bolts in stock so making $ 5 to $ 10 profit on a bolt eases the pain
B
bertsmobile1
Fixed price servicingI get a few blade bolts each year that require a lot of effort and patience to remove. You have to remember that blade bolts on a mower are self tightening. The longer you leave them on in between sharpening, and the more stuff you hit, the harder they will be to take off. When you are using a breaker bar, penetrating oil, heat, and a 5’ cheater pipe, things are getting serious. So my question to the shop owners is this. Do you charge the customer extra to remove blade bolts that take say an hour to remove vs 30 seconds?
What you loose on the swings you gain on the round about.
If they do not come off in about 5 minutes I chop the head off the bolts or use a nut splitter on nuts then charge the customer the mower companies price to replace the bolt I get from Boltmaster I keep most common blade bolts in stock so making $ 5 to $ 10 profit on a bolt eases the pain
#35
StarTech
StarTech
Some OEM bolt prices are quite high when sourced from the OEM distributor compared to a Nut, Bolt, Screw distributor. Now I not as greedy (just an opinion) on the sale prices but I do double and triple the cost price. Even when I do that the sale price way cheaper when the cost from the OEM distributor. Here is used two sources Fastenal and McMaster-Carr. I had one the other than the OEM wanted $15 for a bolt and it was only $2.50 including shipping divide the number extra bolts I had to get.
The problems is just figuring out the screw or nut specs and having to stock initially more than I need for a project at times but usually used them up in a year so I save multiple shipping charges.
It is same with bearings as the OEM tend distributor tends to eat us a live on them when compared to a bearing supplier.
The problems is just figuring out the screw or nut specs and having to stock initially more than I need for a project at times but usually used them up in a year so I save multiple shipping charges.
It is same with bearings as the OEM tend distributor tends to eat us a live on them when compared to a bearing supplier.
#36
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I do charge for time to remove/destroy/break off fasteners. I work on lots of old stuff and I have an induction heater, impact tools and an oxy propane torch so most rusted nuts and bolts don't give much trouble. What I spend time on is tiller tines and rear wheels on some riding mowers.So let’s say you actually have to extract a bolt, or you have a blade bolt, or any bolt for that matter, and it takes you roughly an hour to extract or remove vs a few seconds. Do you charge the customer an hour’s worth of labor, or eat it? I have battery, electric, and air impacts. I know how to remove and extract bolts. I am aware of bowtie and star blades. Work on a lot of commercial equipment as well that doesn’t use star pattern.
Thanks in advance for you input.
#37
StarTech
StarTech
What I see here is everyone has different problem areas. Here I just take frozen fasteners in stride. Really don't see a lot repeat problems in a single year. But certain problems do happen over multiple years. Things like Kohler valve cover exhaust side screws getting froze in place and to be drilled out and the M6 have to resized to M7 screws. But you know about a common issue usually you can be prepared for it.
And yes rear wheel on axles are a pain at times but finding different ways of getting off easier over time. My main tiller problem is Troybilt small frame ones where the owner never shift the wheels into neutral position and they rust in place. Now they are a real pain to get off just to replace the axle seals.
But have been fairly lucky as I simply don't see too many seized fasteners. And on top that I have found new ways of getting a penetrating fluid into the areas. Not one common penetrating fluid will work on all problem areas, it take different one depending on what you trying to loosen. Sometime it just takes knowing how to loosen a fastener that has seized. No one technique works on all fasteners. This is where experience pays off a lot of the time.
It is like those seized screws in the Nikki two barrel carbs. I get a lot of them in here where other techs have nearly destroyed the fuel bowl screws which I have replace. They are simple to get out once a hammer and punch gets used. Just sale new screws when this happens.
And yes rear wheel on axles are a pain at times but finding different ways of getting off easier over time. My main tiller problem is Troybilt small frame ones where the owner never shift the wheels into neutral position and they rust in place. Now they are a real pain to get off just to replace the axle seals.
But have been fairly lucky as I simply don't see too many seized fasteners. And on top that I have found new ways of getting a penetrating fluid into the areas. Not one common penetrating fluid will work on all problem areas, it take different one depending on what you trying to loosen. Sometime it just takes knowing how to loosen a fastener that has seized. No one technique works on all fasteners. This is where experience pays off a lot of the time.
It is like those seized screws in the Nikki two barrel carbs. I get a lot of them in here where other techs have nearly destroyed the fuel bowl screws which I have replace. They are simple to get out once a hammer and punch gets used. Just sale new screws when this happens.
#38
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Those JIS screws really fool peopleIt is like those seized screws in the Nikki two barrel carbs. I get a lot of them in here where other techs have nearly destroyed the fuel bowl screws which I have replace. They are simple to get out once a hammer and punch gets used. Just sale new screws when this happens.
#40
StarTech
StarTech
But the JIS nuts are needed on those twin Kawasaki engine exhaust manifolds. Makes a world of difference to use 12mm (wrench size) hex nut as it nearly impossible to get a 13mm socket on the ones that JD wants you to use. Either way they are still hard to get on with the engines mounted as the muffler are in the way too. Or maybe my socket are just not thin enough. Non impact used here.
#41
Cusser
Cusser
On the cylinder heads of my two old VWs, I use nuts 8mm x 1.25mm that utilize an 11mm wrench. Simpler is to grind a socket or wrench narrower; use a bench grinder and eye protection.
#42
C
closecut
C
closecut
Purchase a nut-cutter from amazon.It will cut off nuts without damaging the threads.Saves a lot of time and trouble on otherwise stuck or cold welded nuts.About $8 or so.Worth it if you do much mechanical work on anything.There will always be one that is stubborn.
Metal Nut Splitter Cracker 12-16mm Manual Pressure Remove Rusty Nut Cracker Nut Removing Splitting Tool Heavy Duty Nut Splitter for Damaged Nut Remover
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SeniorCitizen
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SeniorCitizen
I'm reading post that are tightening 12 mm nuts like we did on a TLA Clark with 2-5/16" con rod nuts . 
