You said when you got off to move something, that of course, it shut off. When you did that, did you disengage your blades first? If not, you are activating two interlock switches, as opposed to one, which most obviously would be the seat switch. Be sure your blades are disengaged and you're on the seat when trying again. Two interlock switches activated creates a compounded problem, as we typically think it's a single issue we're looking for. Also, when jumping your battery from a car, NEVER run the car while jumping to the mower, as you run a risk of destroying your mowers starter, charging system, and other electrical components such as fuses, diodes and electronic switches. I've seen this on a few occasions. Hope this helps.
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Export threadI would try to find a electrical schematic on-line and download/print of the machine and then troubleshoot. (since you indicate you have a electronics background and know how to use a voltmeter)
To get a crank/click
assuming good battery and fuse and fuse holder, ign switch.
Normally the PTO has to be OFF
the brake/clutch depressed
Some require to be setting in the seat, some don't.
To get a crank/click
assuming good battery and fuse and fuse holder, ign switch.
Normally the PTO has to be OFF
the brake/clutch depressed
Some require to be setting in the seat, some don't.
For another path to find the problem, Ground the jumper NEG cable end to the engine block, touch the POS cable end to the starter connection. The starter should spin and the engine should turn over. Won't start as key switch in OFF position. If not, then I would remove the starter and bench test. The engine should be able to be turned by hand.
Now, your back tracking for the problem. Has to be 12v on the small solenoid connection and the solenoid grounded when the key is in the START pos. The solenoid should click.
If no 12v there, then check the key switch for 12v at the B connection and at the S connection when in START position.. The fact that the carb solenoid is not clicking is an indicator that either the 12v to the key switch is missing, or the switch is bad. If there is 12v at the key switch then there's a wiring connection issue, or safety switch issue. When checking the seat switch, try zip tying it rather than unplugging. This is just for testing.
Now, your back tracking for the problem. Has to be 12v on the small solenoid connection and the solenoid grounded when the key is in the START pos. The solenoid should click.
If no 12v there, then check the key switch for 12v at the B connection and at the S connection when in START position.. The fact that the carb solenoid is not clicking is an indicator that either the 12v to the key switch is missing, or the switch is bad. If there is 12v at the key switch then there's a wiring connection issue, or safety switch issue. When checking the seat switch, try zip tying it rather than unplugging. This is just for testing.