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Synthetic Oil Use
#1
J
jd322
J
jd322
I would like to know if its advisable to use a 100% synthetic 10W-30 oil in the crankcase of a Kawasaki OHV engine in a John Deere 425 lawn tractor. I've tried googling for an answer but can't come up with anything. Thank you.
#2
reynoldston
reynoldston
100% synthetic Ams oil is all I use in my mower. I have been using the 15W40 diesel oil because that was what my oil dealer recommended I use. You will find for some reason some people on this forum has something against synthetic oils for some reason.
#3
Nwatson99
My Kawasaki engine owners manual recommended synthetic oil so that is what I am using, Castrol 10W-30 Synthetic oil.
Which Kawasaki engine is your mower using?
Nwatson99
I would like to know if its advisable to use a 100% synthetic 10W-30 oil in the crankcase of a Kawasaki OHV engine in a John Deere 425 lawn tractor. I've tried googling for an answer but can't come up with anything. Thank you.
My Kawasaki engine owners manual recommended synthetic oil so that is what I am using, Castrol 10W-30 Synthetic oil.
Which Kawasaki engine is your mower using?
#4
okiepc
okiepc
I use it in my old John Deere GX75 with a Kawasaki, seems to work perfect. :thumbsup:
#5
Ric
You can use what ever you like. If you check your Kawasaki manual it will say or give you Oil Type as Detergent Oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL) it also will tell you the use of a Multi-Grade Oils (5w20, 10w30 or 10w40) will increase oil consumption and to check the oil levels more frequently. You should choose your oil according to the table listed in your manual. You can't google for an answer to your question because there is none, using a synthetic over the conventional oil is a personal choice at twice the price.
Ric
I would like to know if its advisable to use a 100% synthetic 10W-30 oil in the crankcase of a Kawasaki OHV engine in a John Deere 425 lawn tractor. I've tried googling for an answer but can't come up with anything. Thank you.
You can use what ever you like. If you check your Kawasaki manual it will say or give you Oil Type as Detergent Oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL) it also will tell you the use of a Multi-Grade Oils (5w20, 10w30 or 10w40) will increase oil consumption and to check the oil levels more frequently. You should choose your oil according to the table listed in your manual. You can't google for an answer to your question because there is none, using a synthetic over the conventional oil is a personal choice at twice the price.
#6
Carscw
Carscw
Just use oil and change it every 50 hours
#7
Retiredcarguy
Retiredcarguy
Synthetic is the superior lubricate in every way possible for an engine and gear case, besides also increased HP and torque, and yes, reduced fuel consumption by a reduction in friction.
#8
LazerZLandscaping
I run that in my Jeep, Shell Rotella T 15w-40 oil with the STP Zinc Additive.
LazerZLandscaping
100% synthetic Ams oil is all I use in my mower. I have been using the 15W40 diesel oil because that was what my oil dealer recommended I use. You will find for some reason some people on this forum has something against synthetic oils for some reason.
I run that in my Jeep, Shell Rotella T 15w-40 oil with the STP Zinc Additive.
#9
LazerZLandscaping
LazerZLandscaping
You don't have to use synthetic, unless the manufacturer states you must only run synthetic.
#10
reynoldston
Yes I Agree with you 100%. For some reason you will find a lot of people on this forum who don't. They will tell you that its a waste of money. I use it in everything but my camp mower.
reynoldston
Synthetic is the superior lubricate in every way possible for an engine and gear case, besides also increased HP and torque, and yes, reduced fuel consumption by a reduction in friction.
Yes I Agree with you 100%. For some reason you will find a lot of people on this forum who don't. They will tell you that its a waste of money. I use it in everything but my camp mower.
#11
LazerZLandscaping
I use synthetic in some of my equipment and cars, but sometimes I just co with classic conventional.
LazerZLandscaping
Yes I Agree with you 100%. For some reason you will find a lot of people on this forum who don't. They will tell you that its a waste of money. I use it in everything but my camp mower.
I use synthetic in some of my equipment and cars, but sometimes I just co with classic conventional.
#12
Retiredcarguy
Retiredcarguy
If you have a high dollar motor, engine or gear case, it is well worth it.
#13
Ric
Your talking about synthetic being a superior oil. People talk about this one being better than this one when in fact there's not a whole lot of difference between them. Mobil1, Amsoil, Valvoline SynPower and other synthetic motor oils all have to meet and exceed the same specifications to get that API Logo. The only thing that makes one better than the other are the company's claims and that's all they are is claims.
You Talk about increased HP and torque, and yes, reduced fuel consumption, what kind of increase or reduction are you going to get on any of those when your talking about a lawnmower engine, even with a car there minimal at best. Use The oil you want, synthetic or conventional and change it and the oil filter every 50 hrs and you'll be good to go.
Ric
Synthetic is the superior lubricate in every way possible for an engine and gear case, besides also increased HP and torque, and yes, reduced fuel consumption by a reduction in friction.
Your talking about synthetic being a superior oil. People talk about this one being better than this one when in fact there's not a whole lot of difference between them. Mobil1, Amsoil, Valvoline SynPower and other synthetic motor oils all have to meet and exceed the same specifications to get that API Logo. The only thing that makes one better than the other are the company's claims and that's all they are is claims.
You Talk about increased HP and torque, and yes, reduced fuel consumption, what kind of increase or reduction are you going to get on any of those when your talking about a lawnmower engine, even with a car there minimal at best. Use The oil you want, synthetic or conventional and change it and the oil filter every 50 hrs and you'll be good to go.
#14
S
Stevie-Ray
S
Stevie-Ray
When I changed the oil in my Deere a couple months ago, I went with Mobil 1. I believe in synthetic, plus I had it on hand. Win-win.
#15
E
Exracer
E
Exracer
I work at a golf course and have used Mobil 1 since 1996 in my personal car and truck and the EZ-GO carts. I know Pro-Stock drag racers use it and have lowered their ET.
#16
reynoldston
reynoldston
Synthetic Amsoil oil you don't have to change as often so the cost is about the same as standard oil.
#17
E
Exracer
With as many engines I have to take care of that is part of the reason I use it.
E
Exracer
Synthetic Amsoil oil you don't have to change as often so the cost is about the same as standard oil.
With as many engines I have to take care of that is part of the reason I use it.
#18
Ric
Ric
If you check the ratings for example on Mobil Super 5000 10w30 you'll find them to be ILSAC GF-5 API SN,SM,and SL the same ratings for there High Mileage oil and there Advanced Full Synthetic. They all meet the same standards. Buy what ever your comfortable using.
#19
D
Dave1954
I would not use any high mileage oil in anything unless it was leaking oil as they have additives to swell seals and stop leaks in automotive applications. However using a good full synthetic oil has been proven countless times to reduce friction, run cooler and protect better, all these things are even more crucial for a air cooled motor designed to run at full throttle for extended periods of time. Conventional oil will do the job for sure but IMO it's worth the few extra dollars to reap the benefits of synthetic in my machines.
D
Dave1954
If you check the ratings for example on Mobil Super 5000 10w30 you'll find them to be ILSAC GF-5 API SN,SM,and SL the same ratings for there High Mileage oil and there Advanced Full Synthetic. They all meet the same standards. Buy what ever your comfortable using.
I would not use any high mileage oil in anything unless it was leaking oil as they have additives to swell seals and stop leaks in automotive applications. However using a good full synthetic oil has been proven countless times to reduce friction, run cooler and protect better, all these things are even more crucial for a air cooled motor designed to run at full throttle for extended periods of time. Conventional oil will do the job for sure but IMO it's worth the few extra dollars to reap the benefits of synthetic in my machines.
#20
Ric
Synthetic or synthetic blended oils are not intended to extend oil change intervals. As far as assisting with gas mileage and HP, maybe in a car but I don't see it in or for a lawnmower application. It really doesn't matter what oil you use you should not extend service intervals beyond what the manufacturer recommends, especially in a lawn-mower under the conditions that it runs in, it needs changing more often.
Ric
Synthetic Amsoil oil you don't have to change as often so the cost is about the same as standard oil.
Synthetic or synthetic blended oils are not intended to extend oil change intervals. As far as assisting with gas mileage and HP, maybe in a car but I don't see it in or for a lawnmower application. It really doesn't matter what oil you use you should not extend service intervals beyond what the manufacturer recommends, especially in a lawn-mower under the conditions that it runs in, it needs changing more often.
#21
O
oldyellr
Sure, if that's what you want to pay for. Synthetic oil is very good and you can forget about the old wives tales about it causing oil leaks. However, synthetic is best suited for high stress applications and a waste of money for a humble lawn mower engine. I use whatever is handy or left over or the cheapest motor oil from Walmart.
O
oldyellr
I would like to know if its advisable to use a 100% synthetic 10W-30 oil in the crankcase of a Kawasaki OHV engine in a John Deere 425 lawn tractor. I've tried googling for an answer but can't come up with anything. Thank you.
Sure, if that's what you want to pay for. Synthetic oil is very good and you can forget about the old wives tales about it causing oil leaks. However, synthetic is best suited for high stress applications and a waste of money for a humble lawn mower engine. I use whatever is handy or left over or the cheapest motor oil from Walmart.
#22
Retiredcarguy
Respectfully, I'll spend a few extra dollars for synthetic, the superior lubricant, for my not so humble X575 in every location possible.
Synthetic lubricants are the best long term choice for those interested in extended service life and long term performance, in machines on the ground and also in the air.
Retiredcarguy
Sure, if that's what you want to pay for. Synthetic oil is very good and you can forget about the old wives tales about it causing oil leaks. However, synthetic is best suited for high stress applications and a waste of money for a humble lawn mower engine. I use whatever is handy or left over or the cheapest motor oil from Walmart.
Respectfully, I'll spend a few extra dollars for synthetic, the superior lubricant, for my not so humble X575 in every location possible.
Synthetic lubricants are the best long term choice for those interested in extended service life and long term performance, in machines on the ground and also in the air.
#23
O
oldyellr
O
oldyellr
Suit yourself. I can replace my mower for $500, but my car might take $5000. If you use synthetic oil, use it for the performance, not to extend oil change intervals. It's preferable to change your oil often rather than try and make expensive oil last a long time.
#24
Ric
I don't see where you get superior from. I was just looking at the Operators Manual for the ZTR that I have and it doesn't say anything about using synthetic oil in my FX, FS or FJ Kawasaki engines. People say you can run synthetic longer without changing oil like 100hrs is what people say. My manual says the service interval after the first eight hours to change the oil every 100hrs using the recommended conventional oil, change more often in dirty or dusty conditions which is what a mower runs in 99.9% of the time. If you have an engine that call for synthetic like the Corvette I had or my wifes Mini does fine use the synthetic other wise use what you want.
Ric
Respectfully, I'll spend a few extra dollars for synthetic, the superior lubricant, for my not so humble X575 in every location possible.
Synthetic lubricants are the best long term choice for those interested in extended service life and long term performance, in machines on the ground and also in the air.
I don't see where you get superior from. I was just looking at the Operators Manual for the ZTR that I have and it doesn't say anything about using synthetic oil in my FX, FS or FJ Kawasaki engines. People say you can run synthetic longer without changing oil like 100hrs is what people say. My manual says the service interval after the first eight hours to change the oil every 100hrs using the recommended conventional oil, change more often in dirty or dusty conditions which is what a mower runs in 99.9% of the time. If you have an engine that call for synthetic like the Corvette I had or my wifes Mini does fine use the synthetic other wise use what you want.
#25
D
Dave1954
D
Dave1954
The factory Kawasaki oil is a synthetic blend says so right on the bottle and it's 10-30 . I just bought it and a filter from my dealer to do my first change when it's time on my FS 22hp.
#26
D
DK35vince
D
DK35vince
I paid nearly $12,000 for my mower that spends most if its time at full throttle, I'm not going to cheap out on the oil.Sure, if that's what you want to pay for. Synthetic oil is very good and you can forget about the old wives tales about it causing oil leaks. However, synthetic is best suited for high stress applications and a waste of money for a humble lawn mower engine. I use whatever is handy or left over or the cheapest motor oil from Walmart.
#27
Ric
Well Yea it's synthetic, and they use it for there High performance Motorcycle engines that turn 10 to 12000 rpm. Check the manual for your mower engine it will say the same as my FS, Oil type Detergent oil (API service SF.SG,SH, SJ, or SL) doesn't say anything about using synthetic.
Ric
The factory Kawasaki oil is a synthetic blend says so right on the bottle and it's 10-30 . I just bought it and a filter from my dealer to do my first change when it's time on my FS 22hp.
Well Yea it's synthetic, and they use it for there High performance Motorcycle engines that turn 10 to 12000 rpm. Check the manual for your mower engine it will say the same as my FS, Oil type Detergent oil (API service SF.SG,SH, SJ, or SL) doesn't say anything about using synthetic.
#28
E
Exracer
E
Exracer
Beware of synthetic blend any amount of synthetic oil can be added to petroleum oil to get the name SYNTHETIC BLEND so n the unassuming consumer can purchase in his mind synthetic oil at a cheaper price.
#29
D
Dave1954
D
Dave1954
This is Kawasaki brand for power equipment not motorcycle oil. I might be new to a zero turn but ive owned many kinds of high performance machines, from mega horsepower race cars and 19 Harleys and a dozen 4x4 off road machines and if you don't think synthetic oil has benefits over conventional oil then you haven't done the research I have. That said will it make a huge difference in a L:awn Mower, no, will the motor benefit, absolutely it will same as all other motors. Todays oil is way better than the oil of the old days, any good oil will work as long as you change it at suggested or sooner intervals. I would not leave any oil in longer even synthetic. And I also change the filter every time. I mean, a Kawasaki motor uses 2 ouarts, the cost difference it the two oils is very minor imo, so I choose to use what my research shows to be the better oil.Well Yea it's synthetic, and they use it for there High performance Motorcycle engines that turn 10 to 12000 rpm. Check the manual for your mower engine it will say the same as my FS, Oil type Detergent oil (API service SF.SG,SH, SJ, or SL) doesn't say anything about using synthetic.
#30
Ric
The thing is they all have there own oil, Kawasaki, Honda, Briggs and most of the others. There probably all the same oil truth be told, they just use their labels and it's no better than the stuff you buy at Walmart. The cost may be minor to you but not to me, the Mobil Super 5000 is like 2.50 a quart, the cheapest synthetic is like 6.00 a qt. and my Kawasaki FX takes 71ounces with filter so that means I'm into a third qt. and when I change oil every 50 hours there is no benefit to using a synthetic, it just cost me more money.
Ric
This is Kawasaki brand for power equipment not motorcycle oil. I might be new to a zero turn but ive owned many kinds of high performance machines, from mega horsepower race cars and 19 Harleys and a dozen 4x4 off road machines and if you don't think synthetic oil has benefits over conventional oil then you haven't done the research I have. That said will it make a huge difference in a L:awn Mower, no, will the motor benefit, absolutely it will same as all other motors. Todays oil is way better than the oil of the old days, any good oil will work as long as you change it at suggested or sooner intervals. I would not leave any oil in longer even synthetic. And I also change the filter every time. I mean, a Kawasaki motor uses 2 ouarts, the cost difference it the two oils is very minor imo, so I choose to use what my research shows to be the better oil.
The thing is they all have there own oil, Kawasaki, Honda, Briggs and most of the others. There probably all the same oil truth be told, they just use their labels and it's no better than the stuff you buy at Walmart. The cost may be minor to you but not to me, the Mobil Super 5000 is like 2.50 a quart, the cheapest synthetic is like 6.00 a qt. and my Kawasaki FX takes 71ounces with filter so that means I'm into a third qt. and when I change oil every 50 hours there is no benefit to using a synthetic, it just cost me more money.
#31
Carscw
Carscw
How much air does everyone run in their tires?
#33
N
northsouth1967
N
northsouth1967
I prefer synthetic... But I'll share with everyone a piece of wisdom that a member of iboats.com (a boating forum) has in his signature line: "Cheap NEW oil is better than the most expensive DIRTY OLD OIL."
The most important thing is... Change your oil and filter... Often.
The most important thing is... Change your oil and filter... Often.
#34
N
northsouth1967
Enough to fill them:laughing:
If that doesn't help, try the manufacturers suggested PSI.:smile:
N
northsouth1967
How much air does everyone run in their tires?
Enough to fill them:laughing:
If that doesn't help, try the manufacturers suggested PSI.:smile:
#35
N
northsouth1967
You're right. It does not cause leaks; but because its thinner than conventional oil, if you already have a leak, it will leak more with synthetic. If you have a minor leak that went unnoticed with conventional oil and you switch to synthetic; it may leak enough to notice now... giving the impression that synthetic oil caused the leak. This is what caused the "old wives tale."
N
northsouth1967
Sure, if that's what you want to pay for. Synthetic oil is very good and you can forget about the old wives tales about it causing oil leaks. However, synthetic is best suited for high stress applications and a waste of money for a humble lawn mower engine. I use whatever is handy or left over or the cheapest motor oil from Walmart.
You're right. It does not cause leaks; but because its thinner than conventional oil, if you already have a leak, it will leak more with synthetic. If you have a minor leak that went unnoticed with conventional oil and you switch to synthetic; it may leak enough to notice now... giving the impression that synthetic oil caused the leak. This is what caused the "old wives tale."
#36
O
oldyellr
However, early synthetic oils did have the reputation of causing leaks, either because they dissolved buildup on seals or didn't swell the seals the same as conventional oil. That's no longer true.
O
oldyellr
Synthetic oil is not thinner than the same viscosity conventional oil. Where did you get that?You're right. It does not cause leaks; but because its thinner than conventional oil, if you already have a leak, it will leak more with synthetic. If you have a minor leak that went unnoticed with conventional oil and you switch to synthetic; it may leak enough to notice now... giving the impression that synthetic oil caused the leak. This is what caused the "old wives tale."
However, early synthetic oils did have the reputation of causing leaks, either because they dissolved buildup on seals or didn't swell the seals the same as conventional oil. That's no longer true.
#37
R
Raw Dodge
R
Raw Dodge
The important thing about synthetic oil I don't hear anyone mentioning is the fact that typical lawnmowers are air cooled, if you use your mower in extreme conditions especially very hot weather or very heavy loads very tall grass or both the synthetic oil will make a very big difference in the service life you get from your engine.If you are a homeowner just mowing your lawn and you're done in 20 minutes to an hour you probably will not see these benefits as being worth it . I have worked 25 years at a golf course as a superintendent and mechanic,for the equipment we run daily,they work hard,and no breaks,this is equipment that is not that cheap and even the cheaper things like golf carts and small mowers the synthetic oil more than pays for itself in service life and protection from over heating.As for synthetic oil being so expensive yes it is expensive ordinarily,but my local Napa dealer has a sale every May and last year I was able to buy about 10 cases of full synthetic Napa oil for 3.49 a quart,The year before it was 329 year before that it was 299 you just need to keep your eyes open and buy stuff when it's on sale,I stock up and buy a seasons worth of oil or more. I have to change the oil on 35 golf carts,several vehicles,and over two dozen piece of equipment some of which holds several gallons of oil so getting the stuff on sale for us being a small business is very important.The main oil I use is Schaeffers X 7000 in 15w40,it comes in 6 gallon jugs per case. It costs me about 120 a case,and with my five hundred dollar order I get three oil samples and free shipping. I usually use the Napa 10w30 synthetic in the golf carts,and small air cooled engines that are not very expensive.in my larger diesels and liquid cooled gassers I use Schaeffers for the most part.If you have a turbocharger on your diesel tractor or mower,both which I have,synthetic oil protects the turbo against idiot operators who shut down a hot engine before idling it a minute. People don't believe me when I tell him I can get 4 to 5000 hours out of the kohler command 25,but I do and it's because of the oil and because I keep things clean like the air fins,shrouds,and air filter.The last Kohler I had to rebuild was using about 6 to 8 ounces of oil every week if I didn't care I probably could've ran the engine another couple years like that,when I tore it down I discovered the reason it was consuming oil is because it had been so hot so many times,just from running 8hrs a day on 95 degree plus days over the last 13 yrs,that the tension in the rings was gone,the ring gap was fine,the cylinder walls were out only .004 ,for that many hours it was amazing.I did bore to +.025,and new gaskets,intake valve seals,and grind the valves,and that's it,I've put another trouble free 300 hrs on it,and The beauty of running synthetic oil is you can run it for the full recommended interval and not cut your interval and a half for extreme conditions like a high temperature.In my opinion anyone running a liquid cooled diesel or gas engine,you run it hard,and your weather is extremely hot or cold and plans on keeping it for more than five years,it's well worth synthetic oil.For anyone running an air cooled engine twin cylinder,these engines are between 1200 and $3000 now,and most only hold 2 to 3 quarts of oil and all of them have a 100 Hr oil change interval or longer ,exc vanguards which is 50,for the small money difference I think it's worth the money if you plan on keeping it awhile. That's my 2 cents and I'm sticking to it ?
#38
gfp55
gfp55
I hear what you are saying and I agree with you, I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil since the 70s and I have seen how it reduces engine wear, helps with cold weather starts, etc, but you can't convince some of these guys because they do not have experience or they think they do and are closed minded to new ideas and they are cheap so they come up with reasons to not spend any money.The important thing about synthetic oil I don't hear anyone mentioning is the fact that typical lawnmowers are air cooled, if you use your mower in extreme conditions especially very hot weather or very heavy loads very tall grass or both the synthetic oil will make a very big difference in the service life you get from your engine.If you are a homeowner just mowing your lawn and you're done in 20 minutes to an hour you probably will not see these benefits as being worth it . I have worked 25 years at a golf course as a superintendent and mechanic,for the equipment we run daily,they work hard,and no breaks,this is equipment that is not that cheap and even the cheaper things like golf carts and small mowers the synthetic oil more than pays for itself in service life and protection from over heating.As for synthetic oil being so expensive yes it is expensive ordinarily,but my local Napa dealer has a sale every May and last year I was able to buy about 10 cases of full synthetic Napa oil for 3.49 a quart,The year before it was 329 year before that it was 299 you just need to keep your eyes open and buy stuff when it's on sale,I stock up and buy a seasons worth of oil or more. I have to change the oil on 35 golf carts,several vehicles,and over two dozen piece of equipment some of which holds several gallons of oil so getting the stuff on sale for us being a small business is very important.The main oil I use is Schaeffers X 7000 in 15w40,it comes in 6 gallon jugs per case. It costs me about 120 a case,and with my five hundred dollar order I get three oil samples and free shipping. I usually use the Napa 10w30 synthetic in the golf carts,and small air cooled engines that are not very expensive.in my larger diesels and liquid cooled gassers I use Schaeffers for the most part.If you have a turbocharger on your diesel tractor or mower,both which I have,synthetic oil protects the turbo against idiot operators who shut down a hot engine before idling it a minute. People don't believe me when I tell him I can get 4 to 5000 hours out of the kohler command 25,but I do and it's because of the oil and because I keep things clean like the air fins,shrouds,and air filter.The last Kohler I had to rebuild was using about 6 to 8 ounces of oil every week if I didn't care I probably could've ran the engine another couple years like that,when I tore it down I discovered the reason it was consuming oil is because it had been so hot so many times,just from running 8hrs a day on 95 degree plus days over the last 13 yrs,that the tension in the rings was gone,the ring gap was fine,the cylinder walls were out only .004 ,for that many hours it was amazing.I did bore to +.025,and new gaskets,intake valve seals,and grind the valves,and that's it,I've put another trouble free 300 hrs on it,and The beauty of running synthetic oil is you can run it for the full recommended interval and not cut your interval and a half for extreme conditions like a high temperature.In my opinion anyone running a liquid cooled diesel or gas engine,you run it hard,and your weather is extremely hot or cold and plans on keeping it for more than five years,it's well worth synthetic oil.For anyone running an air cooled engine twin cylinder,these engines are between 1200 and $3000 now,and most only hold 2 to 3 quarts of oil and all of them have a 100 Hr oil change interval or longer ,exc vanguards which is 50,for the small money difference I think it's worth the money if you plan on keeping it awhile. That's my 2 cents and I'm sticking to it
#39
Carscw
Carscw
I just did a oil change today.
My toro does not like to turn over when it's cold out.
I went with a full synthetic oil. Will see if if cranks any better the next few days.
My toro does not like to turn over when it's cold out.
I went with a full synthetic oil. Will see if if cranks any better the next few days.
#40
Ric
I don't think it has anything to do with not having experience using the synthetic because I have used it so being closed minded about it I'm not and new Ideas or being cheap. For me using synthetic is a waste of money because for one I live in Florida and my mowers are kept inside when not in use, so cold weather starting doesn't play a part, Two Oil is dirty at fifty hours in a mower regardless if it conventional or synthetic and I've always changed my oil and filter at or every 50hrs so again there's no benefit to synthetic or extending oil changes. I use the oil recommendations from the manufacturers and there's nothing in the manuals that say anything about using synthetic oil and until there is I'll continue using Mobil Super 5000 10w30 like I have for years without any. problems.
Ric
I hear what you are saying and I agree with you, I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil since the 70s and I have seen how it reduces engine wear, helps with cold weather starts, etc, but you can't convince some of these guys because they do not have experience or they think they do and are closed minded to new ideas and they are cheap so they come up with reasons to not spend any money.
I don't think it has anything to do with not having experience using the synthetic because I have used it so being closed minded about it I'm not and new Ideas or being cheap. For me using synthetic is a waste of money because for one I live in Florida and my mowers are kept inside when not in use, so cold weather starting doesn't play a part, Two Oil is dirty at fifty hours in a mower regardless if it conventional or synthetic and I've always changed my oil and filter at or every 50hrs so again there's no benefit to synthetic or extending oil changes. I use the oil recommendations from the manufacturers and there's nothing in the manuals that say anything about using synthetic oil and until there is I'll continue using Mobil Super 5000 10w30 like I have for years without any. problems.
#41
gfp55
gfp55
If anyone is really open minded and wants to understand something and are open to new and better ideas they have to try things for longer then just one or two times over a short period of time and then say I don't see the benefit so it must not be true. There are more benefits then just the few that I mentioned. Nothing and nobody is going to change the mind of anyone that has (I made up my mind and thats it) attitude. One just has to look and research with an open mind and see the benefits of something they don't understand instead of trying to find reasons why not to do something because it will make them wrong in want they said before. Being open minded means being willing to except and consider and receive new ideas, being flexible and adaptive to new experiences. I know I don't know everything and I'm OK with that, but if somebody can teach me something new I'm open to learn.I don't think it has anything to do with not having experience using the synthetic because I have used it so being closed minded about it I'm not and new Ideas or being cheap. For me using synthetic is a waste of money because for one I live in Florida and my mowers are kept inside when not in use, so cold weather starting doesn't play a part, Two Oil is dirty at fifty hours in a mower regardless if it conventional or synthetic and I've always changed my oil and filter at or every 50hrs so again there's no benefit to synthetic or extending oil changes. I use the oil recommendations from the manufacturers and there's nothing in the manuals that say anything about using synthetic oil and until there is I'll continue using Mobil Super 5000 10w30 like I have for years without any. problems.
#42
O
oldyellr
O
oldyellr
I would agree with Ric. You shouldn't expect oil costing twice as much to last twice as long, because they all get dirty. As for needing an expensive synthetic because mowers are air cooled and run hot, that's a design problem. A poorly designed, cheap engine needing expensive oil to survive? I can see using synthetic for racing or in a high output turbo sports car, but not a utilitarian tool like a lawn mower. That's like putting Z-rated high performance tires on a mower, if such were available.
#43
gfp55
gfp55
What makes oil dirty, changes the color of oil, what makes oil turn black? Can you answer that?I would agree with Ric. You shouldn't expect oil costing twice as much to last twice as long, because they all get dirty. As for needing an expensive synthetic because mowers are air cooled and run hot, that's a design problem. A poorly designed, cheap engine needing expensive oil to survive? I can see using synthetic for racing or in a high output turbo sports car, but not a utilitarian tool like a lawn mower. That's like putting Z-rated high performance tires on a mower, if such were available.
#44
R
Raw Dodge
The combustion process turns the oil dark, as does contamination from dirty intake air, and high temps that can darken the oil.The more blow by an engine has the darker the oil gets, also diesels darken it very quickly from soot particulates.
This is why I sample my oil , I get samples done on all my equipment that had an engine with a rebuild or replacement cost of over 1000.00.I sample to establish an oil change interval and to ensure that the engine is sound and not in trouble internally.Seeing,smelling the oil, and rubbing it between your fingers and smearing some on a clean plate of glass will only be helpful if there is a serious problem with the oil..
R
Raw Dodge
What makes oil dirty, changes the color of oil, what makes oil turn black? Can you answer that?
The combustion process turns the oil dark, as does contamination from dirty intake air, and high temps that can darken the oil.The more blow by an engine has the darker the oil gets, also diesels darken it very quickly from soot particulates.
This is why I sample my oil , I get samples done on all my equipment that had an engine with a rebuild or replacement cost of over 1000.00.I sample to establish an oil change interval and to ensure that the engine is sound and not in trouble internally.Seeing,smelling the oil, and rubbing it between your fingers and smearing some on a clean plate of glass will only be helpful if there is a serious problem with the oil..
#45
gfp55
gfp55
Who says its a design problem? "A poorly designed, cheap engine" Friction is friction. If I use your thinking then if you can make a "poorly designed, cheap engine" last longer what will it do for a good designed engine?I would agree with Ric. You shouldn't expect oil costing twice as much to last twice as long, because they all get dirty. As for needing an expensive synthetic because mowers are air cooled and run hot, that's a design problem. A poorly designed, cheap engine needing expensive oil to survive? I can see using synthetic for racing or in a high output turbo sports car, but not a utilitarian tool like a lawn mower. That's like putting Z-rated high performance tires on a mower, if such were available.
#46
O
oldyellr
Engine design and manufacture is very important. I have a 22-year-old Volvo with over 500,000 klicks on it that uses negligible oil between oil changes. how many other cars with half the mileage are still on the road. How many mowers that old are still running?
O
oldyellr
Who says its a design problem? "A poorly designed, cheap engine" Friction is friction. If I use your thinking then if you can make a "poorly designed, cheap engine" last longer what will it do for a good designed engine?
Engine design and manufacture is very important. I have a 22-year-old Volvo with over 500,000 klicks on it that uses negligible oil between oil changes. how many other cars with half the mileage are still on the road. How many mowers that old are still running?
#47
Ric
Ok Lets say as you said, One just has to look and research with an open mind and see the benefits of something they don't understand instead of trying to find reasons why not to do something because it will make them wrong in want they said before. My question is why should I do all that research? Do you honestly believe that the Manufacturer of these mower engines like Kawasaki, Kohler and others haven't already done that and made the determination of what oils are better suited and recommended to use in there engine and put that in the manuals for all to see
Oh wait, they already have and there's no mention of Synthetic oils. I mean really if the stuff was better to use in there engines they would recommend you use it in the manuals.
Now lets be a little open minded here, Everyone says you can extend your synthetic oil changes and you can run all these miles like 10 and 15000 in vehicles between changes be cause the stuff works so well. I purchase a new truck Sept 2013 and it had synthetic oil in it, I used it for my business and at 3956 miles my oil light comes on and says change oil soon so back to Ford I go and change the oil and they put synthetic back in it and you know what... if something goes wrong it's on them, not me. It's what the manufacturer wants and says to use in there manuals. I do the same with my mowers, I follow the guidelines set by the manufacturer.
Ric
If anyone is really open minded and wants to understand something and are open to new and better ideas they have to try things for longer then just one or two times over a short period of time and then say I don't see the benefit so it must not be true. There are more benefits then just the few that I mentioned. Nothing and nobody is going to change the mind of anyone that has (I made up my mind and thats it) attitude. One just has to look and research with an open mind and see the benefits of something they don't understand instead of trying to find reasons why not to do something because it will make them wrong in want they said before. Being open minded means being willing to except and consider and receive new ideas, being flexible and adaptive to new experiences. I know I don't know everything and I'm OK with that, but if somebody can teach me something new I'm open to learn.
Ok Lets say as you said, One just has to look and research with an open mind and see the benefits of something they don't understand instead of trying to find reasons why not to do something because it will make them wrong in want they said before. My question is why should I do all that research? Do you honestly believe that the Manufacturer of these mower engines like Kawasaki, Kohler and others haven't already done that and made the determination of what oils are better suited and recommended to use in there engine and put that in the manuals for all to see
Oh wait, they already have and there's no mention of Synthetic oils. I mean really if the stuff was better to use in there engines they would recommend you use it in the manuals. Now lets be a little open minded here, Everyone says you can extend your synthetic oil changes and you can run all these miles like 10 and 15000 in vehicles between changes be cause the stuff works so well. I purchase a new truck Sept 2013 and it had synthetic oil in it, I used it for my business and at 3956 miles my oil light comes on and says change oil soon so back to Ford I go and change the oil and they put synthetic back in it and you know what... if something goes wrong it's on them, not me. It's what the manufacturer wants and says to use in there manuals. I do the same with my mowers, I follow the guidelines set by the manufacturer.
#48
Carscw
I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer
With over 350.000 pulling a 6x12 trailer with 3000 pounds of mowers.
Gets 10w-30 conventional oil from day one.
1985 dodge over 300.000
1980 snapper with a briggs. Let's say over 3000 hours.
I just did a oil change on a 2006 toro with a briggs that does not like to crank when temps are below 40
Put synthetic in it.
First day and still cranks the same.
I will give it two oil changes to see if it helps. So will know in 3 weeks.
Carscw
Engine design and manufacture is very important. I have a 22-year-old Volvo with over 500,000 klicks on it that uses negligible oil between oil changes. how many other cars with half the mileage are still on the road. How many mowers that old are still running?
I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer
With over 350.000 pulling a 6x12 trailer with 3000 pounds of mowers.
Gets 10w-30 conventional oil from day one.
1985 dodge over 300.000
1980 snapper with a briggs. Let's say over 3000 hours.
I just did a oil change on a 2006 toro with a briggs that does not like to crank when temps are below 40
Put synthetic in it.
First day and still cranks the same.
I will give it two oil changes to see if it helps. So will know in 3 weeks.
#49
O
oldyellr
O
oldyellr
Yes, 0W30 synthetic will crank easier at at low temperatures than, say, 10W30 dino oil. I don't think 0W dino oil is made. But my grass stops growing when it gets that cold.
#50
R
Raw Dodge
I agree with this 100% there are several engines that have a poor design ,and portions of the
oiling system or oil galleries are not large enough. Some just sludge up beccause they have portions of the engine that don't run hot enough, or they don't drain correctly. Others have to lower the capacity of an oil pump design that doesn't provide adequate volume at idle with a hot engine, and higher miles.
Being in the automotive repair business I can tell you a few engines right now that have a lot of problems.
The Chrysler built 2.7 v6 from 2001 till 2007 had a lot of problems related to oil passages that were too small which resulted in the chain tensioners not getting enough oil which resulted in cam timing jumping, these engines also sludge up, but if you ran synthetic oil, you would have neither problem. My sister had a 2002 Chrysler Concorde with this engine she traded in with a hundred seventy four thousand miles all on Mobil one, most of these engines failed between 30 and 60 thousand miles. Chrysler even try denying the warranty on customers who had the car dealer serviced at the recommended service interval the engines will still fail below 60 thousand miles. There are class action lawsuits against Chrysler for this engine. To a lesser extent the 3.7 v6 found in the Jeep Liberty and the 4.7 v8 found in the Durango Ram pickup and Van also has the same problem all these engines will live a long life on synthetic oil. By the way most manufacturers now are requiring full synthetic oil for warranty purposes look at GM with the Dexos oil start in 2011 only full synthetic oils meet the requirements. I believe within five years early every new car engine will need to have full synthetic oil because of high specific output combined with longer oil change intervals that customers are demanding.
R
Raw Dodge
Engine design and manufacture is very important. I have a 22-year-old Volvo with over 500,000 klicks on it that uses negligible oil between oil changes. how many other cars with half the mileage are still on the road. How many mowers that old are still running?
I agree with this 100% there are several engines that have a poor design ,and portions of the
oiling system or oil galleries are not large enough. Some just sludge up beccause they have portions of the engine that don't run hot enough, or they don't drain correctly. Others have to lower the capacity of an oil pump design that doesn't provide adequate volume at idle with a hot engine, and higher miles.
Being in the automotive repair business I can tell you a few engines right now that have a lot of problems.
The Chrysler built 2.7 v6 from 2001 till 2007 had a lot of problems related to oil passages that were too small which resulted in the chain tensioners not getting enough oil which resulted in cam timing jumping, these engines also sludge up, but if you ran synthetic oil, you would have neither problem. My sister had a 2002 Chrysler Concorde with this engine she traded in with a hundred seventy four thousand miles all on Mobil one, most of these engines failed between 30 and 60 thousand miles. Chrysler even try denying the warranty on customers who had the car dealer serviced at the recommended service interval the engines will still fail below 60 thousand miles. There are class action lawsuits against Chrysler for this engine. To a lesser extent the 3.7 v6 found in the Jeep Liberty and the 4.7 v8 found in the Durango Ram pickup and Van also has the same problem all these engines will live a long life on synthetic oil. By the way most manufacturers now are requiring full synthetic oil for warranty purposes look at GM with the Dexos oil start in 2011 only full synthetic oils meet the requirements. I believe within five years early every new car engine will need to have full synthetic oil because of high specific output combined with longer oil change intervals that customers are demanding.
#51
O
oldyellr
No doubt that trend will trickle down to lawnmower engines.
O
oldyellr
That's entirely possible with the government pressure for smaller, more fuel efficient engines which end up being more complex and highly stressed. What you'll save on fuel, you'll pay for oil.I believe within five years early every new car engine will need to have full synthetic oil because of high specific output combined with longer oil change intervals that customers are demanding.
No doubt that trend will trickle down to lawnmower engines.
#52
gfp55
gfp55
I use most of my machines year round. Most of my machines are not one trick pony's.Yes, 0W30 synthetic will crank easier at at low temperatures than, say, 10W30 dino oil. I don't think 0W dino oil is made. But my grass stops growing when it gets that cold.
#53
gfp55
gfp55
I have a 1991 MTD B&S garden tractor, Two 1986 kohlers, 1973 Onan.Engine design and manufacture is very important. I have a 22-year-old Volvo with over 500,000 klicks on it that uses negligible oil between oil changes. how many other cars with half the mileage are still on the road. How many mowers that old are still running?
#54
gfp55
gfp55
Where do you come up with this stuff, its no wonder you say and believe that crap. OK OK you are right about everything I'm sorry I questioned your. Keep your head in the sand.That's entirely possible with the government pressure for smaller, more fuel efficient engines which end up being more complex and highly stressed. What you'll save on fuel, you'll pay for oil.
#55
O
oldyellr
O
oldyellr
You probably never bought cars before they had seat belts, air bags and catalytic converters and cost under $3000. Gas cost 20 cents a gallon and oil 40 cents a quart. Live and learn.Where do you come up with this stuff, its no wonder you say and believe that crap. OK OK you are right about everything I'm sorry I questioned your. Keep your head in the sand.
#56
reynoldston
I will stay out of the oil debate because no one agrees on oil. (Amsoil all the way) John Deere 68 now that is a good old timer, getting hard to find parts for them anymore
reynoldston
You probably never bought cars before they had seat belts, air bags and catalytic converters and cost under $3000. Gas cost 20 cents a gallon and oil 40 cents a quart. Live and learn.
I will stay out of the oil debate because no one agrees on oil. (Amsoil all the way) John Deere 68 now that is a good old timer, getting hard to find parts for them anymore
#57
O
oldyellr
O
oldyellr
Who needs parts when you have a welder? :laughing: And, yes, the JD gets hard to pull over when I need it to mulch the leaves at the end of the season since I use whatever cheap oil I have. But I do put synthetic in my Camaro and used Castrol 'R' in my race bikes back in the day.I will stay out of the oil debate because no one agrees on oil. (Amsoil all the way) John Deere 68 now that is a good old timer, getting hard to find parts for them anymore
#58
reynoldston
Very hard to weld a bad bearing, seal or gasket. 100% synthetic Amsoil in everything but my camp mowers. That is a model 68 JD and a old Toro push mower and they get wally world oil. My bike is just a girls HD sportster but it still gets Amsoil. As far as speed go's it can hold its own on the open road but its far from a race bike.
reynoldston
Who needs parts when you have a welder? :laughing: And, yes, the JD gets hard to pull over when I need it to mulch the leaves at the end of the season since I use whatever cheap oil I have. But I do put synthetic in my Camaro and used Castrol 'R' in my race bikes back in the day.
Very hard to weld a bad bearing, seal or gasket. 100% synthetic Amsoil in everything but my camp mowers. That is a model 68 JD and a old Toro push mower and they get wally world oil. My bike is just a girls HD sportster but it still gets Amsoil. As far as speed go's it can hold its own on the open road but its far from a race bike.
#59
E
Exracer
I agree with you 100% and I also work at a golf course as head equipment tech for the past 13 years and the car business the previous 27 years. I"m sold on Mobil 1 and have used it since the 90's.
E
Exracer
The important thing about synthetic oil I don't hear anyone mentioning is the fact that typical lawnmowers are air cooled, if you use your mower in extreme conditions especially very hot weather or very heavy loads very tall grass or both the synthetic oil will make a very big difference in the service life you get from your engine.If you are a homeowner just mowing your lawn and you're done in 20 minutes to an hour you probably will not see these benefits as being worth it . I have worked 25 years at a golf course as a superintendent and mechanic,for the equipment we run daily,they work hard,and no breaks,this is equipment that is not that cheap and even the cheaper things like golf carts and small mowers the synthetic oil more than pays for itself in service life and protection from over heating.As for synthetic oil being so expensive yes it is expensive ordinarily,but my local Napa dealer has a sale every May and last year I was able to buy about 10 cases of full synthetic Napa oil for 3.49 a quart,The year before it was 329 year before that it was 299 you just need to keep your eyes open and buy stuff when it's on sale,I stock up and buy a seasons worth of oil or more. I have to change the oil on 35 golf carts,several vehicles,and over two dozen piece of equipment some of which holds several gallons of oil so getting the stuff on sale for us being a small business is very important.The main oil I use is Schaeffers X 7000 in 15w40,it comes in 6 gallon jugs per case. It costs me about 120 a case,and with my five hundred dollar order I get three oil samples and free shipping. I usually use the Napa 10w30 synthetic in the golf carts,and small air cooled engines that are not very expensive.in my larger diesels and liquid cooled gassers I use Schaeffers for the most part.If you have a turbocharger on your diesel tractor or mower,both which I have,synthetic oil protects the turbo against idiot operators who shut down a hot engine before idling it a minute. People don't believe me when I tell him I can get 4 to 5000 hours out of the kohler command 25,but I do and it's because of the oil and because I keep things clean like the air fins,shrouds,and air filter.The last Kohler I had to rebuild was using about 6 to 8 ounces of oil every week if I didn't care I probably could've ran the engine another couple years like that,when I tore it down I discovered the reason it was consuming oil is because it had been so hot so many times,just from running 8hrs a day on 95 degree plus days over the last 13 yrs,that the tension in the rings was gone,the ring gap was fine,the cylinder walls were out only .004 ,for that many hours it was amazing.I did bore to +.025,and new gaskets,intake valve seals,and grind the valves,and that's it,I've put another trouble free 300 hrs on it,and The beauty of running synthetic oil is you can run it for the full recommended interval and not cut your interval and a half for extreme conditions like a high temperature.In my opinion anyone running a liquid cooled diesel or gas engine,you run it hard,and your weather is extremely hot or cold and plans on keeping it for more than five years,it's well worth synthetic oil.For anyone running an air cooled engine twin cylinder,these engines are between 1200 and $3000 now,and most only hold 2 to 3 quarts of oil and all of them have a 100 Hr oil change interval or longer ,exc vanguards which is 50,for the small money difference I think it's worth the money if you plan on keeping it awhile. That's my 2 cents and I'm sticking to it
I agree with you 100% and I also work at a golf course as head equipment tech for the past 13 years and the car business the previous 27 years. I"m sold on Mobil 1 and have used it since the 90's.
#60
7394
7394
I use Full Synthetic M-1 in my Evo FatBoy, but my old Harley Flathead prefers 60w dino earl.. :thumbsup:
#61
H
Hammerdown
H
Hammerdown
Hello
I run Pennzoil Platinum in every engine that I have as our Car Truck
and my 1983 John Deere 318 that has an Onan P-218 Performer engine in it that has been run on it since it was remanufactured and it has Run perfect on the 10-30 Grade of Pennzoil Platinum Full synthetic engine oil. Regards, Hammerdown
I run Pennzoil Platinum in every engine that I have as our Car Truck
and my 1983 John Deere 318 that has an Onan P-218 Performer engine in it that has been run on it since it was remanufactured and it has Run perfect on the 10-30 Grade of Pennzoil Platinum Full synthetic engine oil. Regards, Hammerdown
#62
gfp55
What do you say to some of the folks that say synthetic oil is "a waste of money, oil is oil, its just hype"?
gfp55
Hello
I run Pennzoil Platinum in every engine that I have as our Car Truck
and my 1983 John Deere 318 that has an Onan P-218 Performer engine in it that has been run on it since it was remanufactured and it has Run perfect on the 10-30 Grade of Pennzoil Platinum Full synthetic engine oil. Regards, Hammerdown
What do you say to some of the folks that say synthetic oil is "a waste of money, oil is oil, its just hype"?
#63
H
Hammerdown
Hello
I say that they are Just Plain Ignorant[to the fact's of synthetic engine oil it does not break down like conventional oil does and it certainly has a Higher shear strength than any Conventional Oil has. Mobil-1 was tested at the Arcrtic circle with temperature's of 35 Below Zero. They Ran machinery for One Million hour's then Pulled it down for inspection and it showed Very Little wear to it at all. Regards, Hammerdown
H
Hammerdown
What do you say to some of the folks that say synthetic oil is "a waste of money, oil is oil, its just hype"?
Hello
I say that they are Just Plain Ignorant[to the fact's of synthetic engine oil it does not break down like conventional oil does and it certainly has a Higher shear strength than any Conventional Oil has. Mobil-1 was tested at the Arcrtic circle with temperature's of 35 Below Zero. They Ran machinery for One Million hour's then Pulled it down for inspection and it showed Very Little wear to it at all. Regards, Hammerdown
#64
D
Dave1954
D
Dave1954
Truth is, any good oil will do the job even in severe conditions, synthetic will hold up much longer before starting to break down but is running your oil longer really a good idea? not unless you change out the filter at regular intervals because even if syn lasts longer it still gets dirty and not changing the filter will imo be worse for the motor than any benefits you gain from the syn oil.
#65
H
Hammerdown
Hi I Strongly Disagree with your statement all togther here as it is not the truth at all and Very Mis leading to other's. With severe Heat or Cold synthetic engine oil is Far More superior than any conventional oil in both spectrums here. At 35 Below a conventional engine oil is as Thick as Tar I have been in this type of cold and witnesed it, and it Makes it Very hard on the engine connecting Rod's as well as the main bearings inan engine, and Now Living in Tennesee I have seen severe High Temperatures, which does Not Effect a synthetic engine oil so I know how well the synthetic oil hold's up compared to conventional oil and I run Superior Oil filter's that Trap dirt and can go the Fifteen Thousand Mile oil change interval's which makes buying the synthetic engine oil that much Nicer & Smarter as I don't have to change it @ The Three thousand Mile intervals that conventional Oil demands and Need's to be changed... :wink:Hammerdown
H
Hammerdown
Truth is, any good oil will do the job even in severe conditions, synthetic will hold up much longer before starting to break down but is running your oil longer really a good idea? not unless you change out the filter at regular intervals because even if syn lasts longer it still gets dirty and not changing the filter will imo be worse for the motor than any benefits you gain from the syn oil.
Hi I Strongly Disagree with your statement all togther here as it is not the truth at all and Very Mis leading to other's. With severe Heat or Cold synthetic engine oil is Far More superior than any conventional oil in both spectrums here. At 35 Below a conventional engine oil is as Thick as Tar I have been in this type of cold and witnesed it, and it Makes it Very hard on the engine connecting Rod's as well as the main bearings inan engine, and Now Living in Tennesee I have seen severe High Temperatures, which does Not Effect a synthetic engine oil so I know how well the synthetic oil hold's up compared to conventional oil and I run Superior Oil filter's that Trap dirt and can go the Fifteen Thousand Mile oil change interval's which makes buying the synthetic engine oil that much Nicer & Smarter as I don't have to change it @ The Three thousand Mile intervals that conventional Oil demands and Need's to be changed... :wink:Hammerdown
#66
Ric
I agree with Dave 1954. I think it comes down to how you maintain your equipment, I change my oil every 50 hours along with a new filter so synthetic has no benefit to me. What he said was true that synthetic will hold up much longer before starting to break down but at the same time it will be just as dirty at 50 hours as the conventional oil and needs to be changed.
Talking about your 15K oil change, I just recently purchased a new truck and it runs synthetic oil and guess what my oil light came on and said change oil soon and it had 4328 miles on it at that point. The next scheduled oil change from the dealership is 9328 miles so even the dealership says change the stuff every 5000 miles. The easiest way to find out what oil to use in your mower to to read and do what the mower manual says to use and run.
Ric
Truth is, any good oil will do the job even in severe conditions, synthetic will hold up much longer before starting to break down but is running your oil longer really a good idea? not unless you change out the filter at regular intervals because even if syn lasts longer it still gets dirty and not changing the filter will imo be worse for the motor than any benefits you gain from the syn oil.
Hi I Strongly Disagree with your statement all together here as it is not the truth at all and Very Mis leading to other's. With severe Heat or Cold synthetic engine oil is Far More superior than any conventional oil in both spectrum's here. At 35 Below a conventional engine oil is as Thick as Tar I have been in this type of cold and witnessed it, and it Makes it Very hard on the engine connecting Rod's as well as the main bearings in an engine, and Now Living in Tennessee I have seen severe High Temperatures, which does Not Effect a synthetic engine oil so I know how well the synthetic oil hold's up compared to conventional oil and I run Superior Oil filter's that Trap dirt and can go the Fifteen Thousand Mile oil change interval's which makes buying the synthetic engine oil that much Nicer & Smarter as I don't have to change it @ The Three thousand Mile intervals that conventional Oil demands and Need's to be changed... :wink:Hammerdown
I agree with Dave 1954. I think it comes down to how you maintain your equipment, I change my oil every 50 hours along with a new filter so synthetic has no benefit to me. What he said was true that synthetic will hold up much longer before starting to break down but at the same time it will be just as dirty at 50 hours as the conventional oil and needs to be changed.
Talking about your 15K oil change, I just recently purchased a new truck and it runs synthetic oil and guess what my oil light came on and said change oil soon and it had 4328 miles on it at that point. The next scheduled oil change from the dealership is 9328 miles so even the dealership says change the stuff every 5000 miles. The easiest way to find out what oil to use in your mower to to read and do what the mower manual says to use and run.
#67
D
Dave1954
D
Dave1954
You may have a point, but your in Tn, and im in Ga. and truth is we will never see 35 degrees below, and I wouldn't be cranking the lawn mower if I did. :laughing:Hi I Strongly Disagree with your statement all togther here as it is not the truth at all and Very Mis leading to other's. With severe Heat or Cold synthetic engine oil is Far More superior than any conventional oil in both spectrums here. At 35 Below a conventional engine oil is as Thick as Tar I have been in this type of cold and witnesed it, and it Makes it Very hard on the engine connecting Rod's as well as the main bearings inan engine, and Now Living in Tennesee I have seen severe High Temperatures, which does Not Effect a synthetic engine oil so I know how well the synthetic oil hold's up compared to conventional oil and I run Superior Oil filter's that Trap dirt and can go the Fifteen Thousand Mile oil change interval's which makes buying the synthetic engine oil that much Nicer & Smarter as I don't have to change it @ The Three thousand Mile intervals that conventional Oil demands and Need's to be changed... :wink:Hammerdown
#68
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts" Click on your engine manual & go with recommended by Kawasaki.
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...nthetic+vs.+conventional+oil+in+lawn+tractors
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...nthetic+vs.+conventional+oil+in+lawn+tractors
#69
M
mechanic mark
I disagree Ric, read the following:403 Forbiddenclick anyway.
M
mechanic mark
You can use what ever you like. If you check your Kawasaki manual it will say or give you Oil Type as Detergent Oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL) it also will tell you the use of a Multi-Grade Oils (5w20, 10w30 or 10w40) will increase oil consumption and to check the oil levels more frequently. You should choose your oil according to the table listed in your manual. You can't google for an answer to your question because there is none, using a synthetic over the conventional oil is a personal choice at twice the price.
I disagree Ric, read the following:403 Forbiddenclick anyway.
#70
Ric
Really, You want me to believe someone who's keeping a B&S blog that's promoting there B&S oil over my Manual/Manufacturer and what they recommend I use . It's just his opinion. Besides he said the same thing I did, Our engines are designed to run on conventional oil, full synthetic, or synthetic blends. It痴 an owner痴 personal decision if he thinks the extra cost is worth it. Now I will say B&S needs every advantage to keep there engines/ :smile: (said politely) running.
The thing is with all the talk about synthetic oil and its testing it's always about extending your oil changes up to 15K and how great the stuff is according to there tests on a car, truck, suv or van, it's all hype imo. I extended my oil change, i got 4328 miles instead of 3000 miles on my first synthetic oil change on my truck that's when the computer said change oil soon, even the dealership says change the stuff every 5000 miles.
Ric
You can use what ever you like. If you check your Kawasaki manual it will say or give you Oil Type as Detergent Oil (API service SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL) it also will tell you the use of a Multi-Grade Oils (5w20, 10w30 or 10w40) will increase oil consumption and to check the oil levels more frequently. You should choose your oil according to the table listed in your manual. You can't google for an answer to your question because there is none, using a synthetic over the conventional oil is a personal choice at twice the price.
I disagree Ric, read the following:403 Forbiddenclick anyway.
Really, You want me to believe someone who's keeping a B&S blog that's promoting there B&S oil over my Manual/Manufacturer and what they recommend I use . It's just his opinion. Besides he said the same thing I did, Our engines are designed to run on conventional oil, full synthetic, or synthetic blends. It痴 an owner痴 personal decision if he thinks the extra cost is worth it. Now I will say B&S needs every advantage to keep there engines/ :smile: (said politely) running.
The thing is with all the talk about synthetic oil and its testing it's always about extending your oil changes up to 15K and how great the stuff is according to there tests on a car, truck, suv or van, it's all hype imo. I extended my oil change, i got 4328 miles instead of 3000 miles on my first synthetic oil change on my truck
that's when the computer said change oil soon, even the dealership says change the stuff every 5000 miles.
#71
7394
7394
Modern trucks that have the "Oil Life Monitor" on them, truth is: the engines can't tell if you run dino or syn, the monitor is calculated by run cycles. Most modern dino oils are very capable of going 5K or once a year.
The every 3K oil change was what was done in old days. Oils have improved greatly..
My truck has the OLM also, & I use M1 5w-30 (full syn) in it. Why ? Because that is what the book calls for it to run..
The every 3K oil change was what was done in old days. Oils have improved greatly..
My truck has the OLM also, & I use M1 5w-30 (full syn) in it. Why ? Because that is what the book calls for it to run..
#72
E
Exracer
E
Exracer
Modern trucks that have the "Oil Life Monitor" on them, truth is: the engines can't tell if you run dino or syn, the monitor is calculated by run cycles. Most modern dino oils are very capable of going 5K or once a year.
The every 3K oil change was what was done in old days. Oils have improved greatly..
My truck has the OLM also, & I use M1 5w-30 (full syn) in it. Why ? Because that is what the book calls for it to run..
I could not agree with you more and I have been using M 1 since 1996 and using it in gas powered golf carts I have noticed the oil stays cleaner longer and they use screen type oil filters. Last month the golf pro ask me to change the oil in his Toyota 4 Runner and it tells you to use M 1 0W20 and change it once a year. The oil filter is the cartridge style like in the 50's and is made to be part of the engine block (Toyota's going green idea) and you have to remove 15 screws to remove a panel to get to it.
My question is what do you fellas do with the used oil filter after a change? Do you toss it in the garbage can or do you have a recyclers pick it up?
The every 3K oil change was what was done in old days. Oils have improved greatly..
My truck has the OLM also, & I use M1 5w-30 (full syn) in it. Why ? Because that is what the book calls for it to run..
I could not agree with you more and I have been using M 1 since 1996 and using it in gas powered golf carts I have noticed the oil stays cleaner longer and they use screen type oil filters. Last month the golf pro ask me to change the oil in his Toyota 4 Runner and it tells you to use M 1 0W20 and change it once a year. The oil filter is the cartridge style like in the 50's and is made to be part of the engine block (Toyota's going green idea) and you have to remove 15 screws to remove a panel to get to it.
My question is what do you fellas do with the used oil filter after a change? Do you toss it in the garbage can or do you have a recyclers pick it up?
#73
Carscw
My used oil and filters go to auto zone.
I cut my filters open and look for shavings.
Carscw
Modern trucks that have the "Oil Life Monitor" on them, truth is: the engines can't tell if you run dino or syn, the monitor is calculated by run cycles. Most modern dino oils are very capable of going 5K or once a year. The every 3K oil change was what was done in old days. Oils have improved greatly.. My truck has the OLM also, & I use M1 5w-30 (full syn) in it. Why ? Because that is what the book calls for it to run.. I could not agree with you more and I have been using M 1 since 1996 and using it in gas powered golf carts I have noticed the oil stays cleaner longer and they use screen type oil filters. Last month the golf pro ask me to change the oil in his Toyota 4 Runner and it tells you to use M 1 0W20 and change it once a year. The oil filter is the cartridge style like in the 50's and is made to be part of the engine block (Toyota's going green idea) and you have to remove 15 screws to remove a panel to get to it. My question is what do you fellas do with the used oil filter after a change? Do you toss it in the garbage can or do you have a recyclers pick it up?
My used oil and filters go to auto zone.
I cut my filters open and look for shavings.
#74
7394
And mine go to Advance Auto. (FREE Drop off)..
My truck takes a cartridge with easy access, but my cycles & mower take oil 'spin on' cans. They all go to Adv also, after I cut em open & inspect as well. ..
7394
My used oil and filters go to auto zone.
I cut my filters open and look for shavings.
And mine go to Advance Auto. (FREE Drop off)..
My truck takes a cartridge with easy access, but my cycles & mower take oil 'spin on' cans. They all go to Adv also, after I cut em open & inspect as well. ..
#75
D
de dee
down south use any oil you want, when it gos down to 30 below zero, try and start your tractor and snow blower, I run about 100 hours all winter all temp.s down to 40 below, full syn. oil only!!!
D
de dee
I don't see where you get superior from. I was just looking at the Operators Manual for the ZTR that I have and it doesn't say anything about using synthetic oil in my FX, FS or FJ Kawasaki engines. People say you can run synthetic longer without changing oil like 100hrs is what people say. My manual says the service interval after the first eight hours to change the oil every 100hrs using the recommended conventional oil, change more often in dirty or dusty conditions which is what a mower runs in 99.9% of the time. If you have an engine that call for synthetic like the Corvette I had or my wifes Mini does fine use the synthetic other wise use what you want.
down south use any oil you want, when it gos down to 30 below zero, try and start your tractor and snow blower, I run about 100 hours all winter all temp.s down to 40 below, full syn. oil only!!!
#76
gfp55
People can use whatever oil they want, but they should not cry when they have break downs and high down times because they use a lesser oil. I agree with you de dee, but some folks live in the dark ages and don't know about using machines in the cold weather but give bad advice about oil that they have not used in all weather conditions. All anyone has to do is read and learn and have an open mind to see the advantages of synthetic oils for trans, engine, gear, etc. People didn't trust some of new things when car companies started put ABS brakes, computer, heads up display, radial tires, used aluminum suspension components, etc. on cars & trucks. Now lots of those things are standard equipment on new vehicles today. http://www.bimmershops.com/oil-for-bmw http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a2316/4232672/
gfp55
down south use any oil you want, when it gos down to 30 below zero, try and start your tractor and snow blower, I run about 100 hours all winter all temp.s down to 40 below, full syn. oil only!!!
People can use whatever oil they want, but they should not cry when they have break downs and high down times because they use a lesser oil. I agree with you de dee, but some folks live in the dark ages and don't know about using machines in the cold weather but give bad advice about oil that they have not used in all weather conditions. All anyone has to do is read and learn and have an open mind to see the advantages of synthetic oils for trans, engine, gear, etc. People didn't trust some of new things when car companies started put ABS brakes, computer, heads up display, radial tires, used aluminum suspension components, etc. on cars & trucks. Now lots of those things are standard equipment on new vehicles today. http://www.bimmershops.com/oil-for-bmw http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a2316/4232672/
#77
Ric
It's not a case of living in the dark ages or a case of using machines in cold weather. You use the link for BMW and it's a perfect example of what is said to be used for oil in there vehicle and that's what I guess they will put in mine when I take it to there dealership because that's what is recommended by BMW to run at the dealership and in my manual. I do nothing different for My truck, in fact I can't even tell you what is in my truck or what it uses for oil and I could care less because ford does the changes and inspections on the truck and it doesn't cost me a dime. As for my mowers I do the same I run what the manual and manufacturer tells me to run for the conditions I'm in and no place in any of my manuals does it say anything about running synthetic oil.
Ric
People can use whatever oil they want, but they should not cry when they have break downs and high down times because they use a lesser oil. I agree with you de dee, but some folks live in the dark ages and don't know about using machines in the cold weather but give bad advice about oil that they have not used in all weather conditions. All anyone has to do is read and learn and have an open mind to see the advantages of synthetic oils for trans, engine, gear, etc. People didn't trust some of new things when car companies started put ABS brakes, computer, heads up display, radial tires, used aluminum suspension components, etc. on cars & trucks. Now lots of those things are standard equipment on new vehicles today. http://www.bimmershops.com/oil-for-bmw http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a2316/4232672/
It's not a case of living in the dark ages or a case of using machines in cold weather. You use the link for BMW and it's a perfect example of what is said to be used for oil in there vehicle and that's what I guess they will put in mine when I take it to there dealership because that's what is recommended by BMW to run at the dealership and in my manual. I do nothing different for My truck, in fact I can't even tell you what is in my truck or what it uses for oil and I could care less because ford does the changes and inspections on the truck and it doesn't cost me a dime. As for my mowers I do the same I run what the manual and manufacturer tells me to run for the conditions I'm in and no place in any of my manuals does it say anything about running synthetic oil.
#78
gfp55
For some reason I'm not surprised at your reply Ric
gfp55
It's not a case of living in the dark ages or a case of using machines in cold weather. You use the link for BMW and it's a perfect example of what is said to be used for oil in there vehicle and that's what I guess they will put in mine when I take it to there dealership because that's what is recommended by BMW to run at the dealership and in my manual. I do nothing different for My truck, in fact I can't even tell you what is in my truck or what it uses for oil and I could care less because ford does the changes and inspections on the truck and it doesn't cost me a dime. As for my mowers I do the same I run what the manual and manufacturer tells me to run for the conditions I'm in and no place in any of my manuals does it say anything about running synthetic oil.
For some reason I'm not surprised at your reply Ric
#79
Ric
For some reason I'm not surprised that your surprised.
Ric
For some reason I'm not surprised at your reply Ric
For some reason I'm not surprised that your surprised.
#80
Carscw
Carscw
What kind of air does everyone put in their tires?
#81
Ric
What ever comes out of my Bostitch air tank :thumbsup:
Ric
What kind of air does everyone put in their tires?
What ever comes out of my Bostitch air tank :thumbsup:
#82
bricooper78
bricooper78
NITROGEN FILLED ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :laughing:
(I don't mean to flame this,) I have kind of gone both ways with syn vs dino, and on a 100K mile 3.4 in a Grand Am, the startup tick went away with synth.
I also am one of these 5K mile change guys, only use Wix filters.... blah blah blah. I can't say much for mileage, didn't notice anything different, but that motor sounded quieter, at startup at least, the rest sounded about the same from what my ears could tell.
On half the stuff I've owned, it's whatever was on sale, as long as it has the gold star on that bottle (APSI maybe?) it's passed the spec as far as I'm concerned. never blown anything up using it either lol
BUT I bought a used GMC Jimmy, was an 00, with the 4.3 Old guy owned it from the factory with Mobil 1 synth, only thing that engine had ever had in it, and it was the quietest engine I've ever heard in my entire life. I flip S10s, so I know a bit about that engine, and this was leaps and bounds quieter than any of the others. I can only tell the oil changed it. The truck had very good care taken of it, but still, that thing was cop car quiet! Even at that mileage.
So IMO if you go an entire lifespan with only synth, I think it might actually be a better oil.
On the other hand, who's going to put 200K miles on a mower or tractor? lol I think it's a toss up, or a wash. But even with what I've seen on that Jimmy, and using mine at 0, I won't switch to synthetic. I change my oil every year, and I only put about 10 hours a year on mine, with a Wix filter... I'm all about taking care of things, but I think synth is overkill for these.
(I don't mean to flame this,) I have kind of gone both ways with syn vs dino, and on a 100K mile 3.4 in a Grand Am, the startup tick went away with synth.
I also am one of these 5K mile change guys, only use Wix filters.... blah blah blah. I can't say much for mileage, didn't notice anything different, but that motor sounded quieter, at startup at least, the rest sounded about the same from what my ears could tell.
On half the stuff I've owned, it's whatever was on sale, as long as it has the gold star on that bottle (APSI maybe?) it's passed the spec as far as I'm concerned. never blown anything up using it either lol
BUT I bought a used GMC Jimmy, was an 00, with the 4.3 Old guy owned it from the factory with Mobil 1 synth, only thing that engine had ever had in it, and it was the quietest engine I've ever heard in my entire life. I flip S10s, so I know a bit about that engine, and this was leaps and bounds quieter than any of the others. I can only tell the oil changed it. The truck had very good care taken of it, but still, that thing was cop car quiet! Even at that mileage.
So IMO if you go an entire lifespan with only synth, I think it might actually be a better oil.
On the other hand, who's going to put 200K miles on a mower or tractor? lol I think it's a toss up, or a wash. But even with what I've seen on that Jimmy, and using mine at 0, I won't switch to synthetic. I change my oil every year, and I only put about 10 hours a year on mine, with a Wix filter... I'm all about taking care of things, but I think synth is overkill for these.
#83
H
Hammerdown
Hello bricooper
I disagree, These air cooled enginews run hot in the summer Month's synthetic engine oil will Not break down like standard engine oil will due to heat.... Something to think about.... Hammerdown
H
Hammerdown
NITROGEN FILLED ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :laughing:
On the other hand, who's going to put 200K miles on a mower or tractor? lol I think it's a toss up, or a wash. But even with what I've seen on that Jimmy, and using mine at 0, I won't switch to synthetic. I change my oil every year, and I only put about 10 hours a year on mine, with a Wix filter... I'm all about taking care of things, but I think synth is overkill for these.
Hello bricooper
I disagree, These air cooled enginews run hot in the summer Month's synthetic engine oil will Not break down like standard engine oil will due to heat.... Something to think about.... Hammerdown
#84
R
Raw Dodge
R
Raw Dodge
I just ordered a few cases of amsoil 10w30 full synthetic.it was 4.45 a quart..the full synthetic grease with a GC rating was 4.97 a tube.These aren't sale prices, there the prices you get when you sign up for a commercial account. ..compare this with your typical prices of low grade conventional oil at 3.00 a quart and 4.50 a tube for grease that blends with water and pounds out, and you'll see the synthetic isn't a huge additional expenses especially on a mower that may use 4-6 quarts a season if that and 2 tunes of grease..It's actually a bargain to use Amsoil. Today's air and liquid cooled small engines are running hotter and leaner than ever before, they are packing more power and rpm into smaller spaces running larger decks with power hungry hydraulic systems..protect your investment in expensive equipment your talking 10 -15 dollars a season difference at a most, you could probably save money by running the full maximum oil change interval at all times with the amsoil and still get better engine life and efficiency than conventional at half the hours.