Switching to longer blades?

[LawnWizard]

Just a couple of thoughts. 1) as stated above, mow at full throttle. 2) don't cut while turning, do three point turns. 3) check deck for debris or dents that cause loss of vacuum (lift). 4) spindle bearings going out can cause strips. 5) double check your blade heights compared to each other. If the center spindle is slightly higher (bearings) you can get strips. Don't forget to test spindles with the belt off so they can spin freely. ANY grinding or wiggle is a problem. If you do decide to try longer blades you have to be aware of contact with indentations on deck as well as each other. Hope this helps some!

 

[My Hoe]

Unless the blades are gear drive or clocked with a timing belt the blades will not stay clocked and will collide

Came here to say the same thing. Not that I've ever even heard of a toothed "timing belt" on a mower deck that would allow for such "clocking" - and if it did exist, I would expect the belt to get knocked "out of time" by blade strikes into hard objects or just clumped up grass.

 

[StarTech]

Now I have seen both MTD and JD mowers timed decks. And JD has or had one the best full mulching decks that I have seen.

 

[Grasswhore]

Is it possible(geometry wise) to put one longer blade only on the front center spindle to obtain more overlap. Tip to shroud is a fixed length on outside of blades. If there is more room from tip to front of deck....?

 

[Skippydiesel]

Never done an Australian survey - My subjective observation -

Lawn mulching is rarely done, even collecting (harvesting) clippings not so common.
Why?
Simple - the clippings on the surface will be quickly consumed/processed by the organisms (worms/beetles/fungi /etc) living within the sward. The nutrients will be naturally returned to the soil, maintain soil organic/nutrient levels (soil quality) which in tern allows better moisture penetration and holding capacity. In short a healthy, drought resistant lawn.
Mulching requires more HP (fuel consumption) for little if any gain.
Harvesting clippings takes time, somewhere to keep (compost heap?) the clippings and results in nutrient efficient soil, which then must be aerated & fertilised adding unnecessary cost.

 

[ILENGINE]

Came here to say the same thing. Not that I've ever even heard of a toothed "timing belt" on a mower deck that would allow for such "clocking" - and if it did exist, I would expect the belt to get knocked "out of time" by blade strikes into hard objects or just clumped up grass.

Check out the John Deere freedom mulching deck. It has the toothed timing belt.

 

[macdoesit]

You said it happened brand new. I would have taken it back and switched it for another one.

 

[StarTech]

Check out the John Deere freedom mulching deck. It has the toothed timing belt.

Bingo. And the local JD dealer repair shop couldn't tell me how to adjust the belt tension on the Freedom deck. I had work that out for myself.

 

[BigBlueEdge]

some before and after results with Oregon G6 mulching blades set at 3" with the grass currently at about10" and damp grass today . . . .
the leaves and bark are from a couple Sycamore trees, huge leaves and tough bark - - -

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Thanks. That's the type of cut I'm expecting. Where you really can't see where the individual blade edges were.

Here are a few pics I took last week that kinda demonstrate what I have going on. Obviously the rear wheels pack down the grass and that can be seen, but you can also see faint strips where the blades meet. They aren't really 'mohawks' of uncut grass but they are apparent.

 

[BigBlueEdge]

my 1.5 cents good day Sir what does the manufacturer tell you (tech rep/engineering)
Good luck

They worked with me for quite a while on adjustments (belt tension, deck leveling) and got me the adjustable casters. It improved things but didn't eliminate the issue. They finally came up with "well, your northern grasses (MN) are just tough to get a good cut with, so that's as good as it gets" (unless you really slow down).