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Switching to longer blades?

#1

B

BigBlueEdge

Has anyone tried running blades that are a bit longer than the standard/recommended blade length for a particular model? On my Rogue 72" I've always battled two 'mohawks' of grass at the point between the three blades. It's not awful, as in completely uncut strips, but it is pretty noticeable everywhere as being two slight strips that aren't as flat as everywhere else. I was thinking of trying some blades that are just a bit longer than the stock "24 inch" blades to get a bit of overlap. Of course I'd ensure that the clocking of the blades is such that they never meet and touch each other. I haven't actually looked to see what other lengths are available, so maybe this idea is bunk if there are no ~25" blades out there...

I'm unsure why my Rogue behaves like this. It has occurred with both the stock blades and Gator G6 blades. I can't believe it is some type of adjustment and I know for a fact this occurs when my blades are freshly sharpened.


#2

A

Auto Doc's

This problem sounds like the wrong blades are repeatedly being used. The three blade decks have the middle spindle placed forward of the 2 out spindles on purpose to prevent "mohawking".

Putting incorrect blades that are too long, they will hit the deck housing.

I have had this issue once because I got blades from a local hardware vendor because the guys were just picking out blades based on measured length of the well-worn old ones.


#3

M

MParr

Use OEM blades or equivalent aftermarket blades. With that 72" deck, run it level all around. No forward pitch.


#4

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

BigBlueEdge said:
Has anyone tried running blades that are a bit longer than the standard/recommended blade length for a particular model? On my Rogue 72" I've always battled two 'mohawks' of grass at the point between the three blades. It's not awful, as in completely uncut strips, but it is pretty noticeable everywhere as being two slight strips that aren't as flat as everywhere else. I was thinking of trying some blades that are just a bit longer than the stock "24 inch" blades to get a bit of overlap. Of course I'd ensure that the clocking of the blades is such that they never meet and touch each other. I haven't actually looked to see what other lengths are available, so maybe this idea is bunk if there are no ~25" blades out there...

I'm unsure why my Rogue behaves like this. It has occurred with both the stock blades and Gator G6 blades. I can't believe it is some type of adjustment and I know for a fact this occurs when my blades are freshly sharpened.
Click to expand...
Unless the blades are gear drive or clocked with a timing belt the blades will not stay clocked and will collide


#5

StarTech

StarTech

Okay the center blade is offset forward. And 24-1/8 Blades are only 72-3/8 total width. And tip wear would cause the problem.

So the question is what is the tip clearances? At closest point of the deck housing and tip of the blade, and the tip to tip clearances of the blades themselves.

There are some 24-1/2, Hi lift blades the might work but I haven't had a 72" Rouge in the shop to check on this myself.


#6

B

BigBlueEdge

Auto Doc's said:
This problem sounds like the wrong blades are repeatedly being used. The three blade decks have the middle spindle placed forward of the 2 out spindles on purpose to prevent "mohawking".

Putting incorrect blades that are too long, they will hit the deck housing.

I have had this issue once because I got blades from a local hardware vendor because the guys were just picking out blades based on measured length of the well-worn old ones.
Click to expand...
Kinda can't be that issue since it occurred immediately when new with the stock BB blades. And the replacement Gator blades I moved to are the same length.


#7

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
Use OEM blades or equivalent aftermarket blades. With that 72" deck, run it level all around. No forward pitch.
Click to expand...
I do. The OEM blades did this and the appropriate Gator replacement blades do this.

As for level, I have it set per Bad Boy's recommendation, which I think is about 1/4" higher in the rear. I highly doubt a 1/4" difference over 24" would magically fix my stripe problem, would it?


#8

B

BigBlueEdge

ILENGINE said:
Unless the blades are gear drive or clocked with a timing belt the blades will not stay clocked and will collide
Click to expand...
That's part of what I was wondering. Mine don't appear to move because I always clock them to not meet (stock size blades which wouldn't touch anyway) and when I remove them to sharpen they are never meeting. But I can see the potential risk.


#9

B

BigBlueEdge

StarTech said:
Okay the center blade is offset forward. And 24-1/8 Blades are only 72-3/8 total width. And tip wear would cause the problem.

So the question is what is the tip clearances? At closest point of the deck housing and tip of the blade, and the tip to tip clearances of the blades themselves.

There are some 24-1/2, Hi lift blades the might work but I haven't had a 72" Rouge in the shop to check on this myself.
Click to expand...
This has happened since brand new, with the new OEM blades and the new Gator G6 blades. So wear can be taken out of the picture. I may look into the 24.5" option. Thanks.


#10

A

Auto Doc's

BigBlueEdge said:
I do. The OEM blades did this and the appropriate Gator replacement blades do this.

As for level, I have it set per Bad Boy's recommendation, which I think is about 1/4" higher in the rear. I highly doubt a 1/4" difference over 24" would magically fix my stripe problem, would it?
Click to expand...
Are you cutting with the mower RPM set to high, or trying to save gas by cutting at low throttle? Mowing should be done at full throttle and use the hand controls for the speed and direction.

If you are trying to mow too fast that can also cause problems.


#11

B

BigBlueEdge

Wide F'n open throttle. Mowing speed doesn't really have any effect for me unless I'm virtually crawling along. Any normal mowing speed gives me these results.


#12

B

BigBlueEdge

I should also note that this issue has been present since the unit was brand new in 2021. And I did work with the dealer and Bad Boy quite a bit in the beginning. They even got me a set of the non-yet-released adjustable caster position mounts which BB eventually moved to as standard to allow the caster position to move left or right. The idea for that was in hopes of keeping the wheels out of line with the blade intersection lines to reduce 'compaction/bounce back' issues at that low-blade-coverage spot. The belt tension has been checked and adjusted so it isn't blade slippage. The dealer went through all the typical troubleshooting things without success.

The Bad Boy's eventual take on why this couldn't be sorted was: "Your northern grass types (I live in MN) just don't lend themselves to clean cutting at zero-turn normal mowing speeds. Either slow way down to get a better cut or live with it." Well, I didn't buy a $11k zero turn to mow slower than my x758 garden tractor could mow so I guess live with it it is. So I lived with it for 5 seasons but now I figured I'd check into something that I hadn't considered or done yet: longer blades.


#13

StarTech

StarTech

It won't be the first time for BB to spec the wrong parts. I got a customer with a 2017 Magnum that they say the short brake cable is the correct one. Not in my opinion when you can play a tune on it installed. Found the longer cable with no help from BB tech support. Awaiting the customer to return the mower for me to exchange the cable.


#14

M

MParr

BigBlueEdge said:
I do. The OEM blades did this and the appropriate Gator replacement blades do this.

As for level, I have it set per Bad Boy's recommendation, which I think is about 1/4" higher in the rear. I highly doubt a 1/4" difference over 24" would magically fix my stripe problem, would it?
Click to expand...
You would be surprised. There is no one deck setting to fit all. I have a Gravely Pro Turn 260. Gravely says to set the rear 1/4" to 1/2" higher in the rear. It doesn't do well anywhere between those heights. I wound up with the rear 1/8" higher than the front and it cuts beautifully.


#15

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
You would be surprised. There is no one deck setting to fit all. I have a Gravely Pro Turn 260. Gravely says to set the rear 1/4" to 1/2" higher in the rear. It doesn't do well anywhere between those heights. I wound up with the rear 1/8" higher than the front and it cuts beautifully.
Click to expand...
OK. I can level the deck front-to-back and give that a try.


#16

B

BigBlueEdge

StarTech said:
It won't be the first time for BB to spec the wrong parts. I got a customer with a 2017 Magnum that they say the short brake cable is the correct one. Not in my opinion when you can play a tune on it installed. Found the longer cable with no help from BB tech support. Awaiting the customer to return the mower for me to exchange the cable.
Click to expand...
Do you know what the blade length should be for a BB 72" deck?


#17

StarTech

StarTech

BigBlueEdge said:
Do you know what the blade length should be for a BB 72" deck?
Click to expand...
No I don't than the PN refers to a 24-1/8 blade which is just over 72-3/8 when you multiple by 3. There is no margin for error at this measurement. There should more overlap which is why I asked about the tip to tip and tip to deck clearances. It makes more sense to have 24-1/2 blades but got to know the clearances and I don't a BB mower in the shop with a 72" to even look at, just a 54". Even a 24-11/16 or 25" might work in aftermarket [ie for another OEM] but it is all a guessing game without the measurements.


#18

B

BigBlueEdge

Can't measure the blades super accurately while still on the spindle and trying to reach under the deck, but I think the Gator blades on currently are just barely over 24". Maybe 24 and 1/16".

There is at least 1/4" clearance at any location between the blades and the deck baffles or sides.

Even though the middle blade is offset I don't think there is really any appreciable overlap. When looking from the front the edge of the center blade seems to land right about in line with the edge of a side blade. If there were actually an inch of overlap that might solve the problem.


#19

H

Honest Abe

Bad Boy 72" deck use 24" blades...
also, have you check the tire air pressure to make sure they are all up to spec...?


#20

StarTech

StarTech

Honest Abe said:
Bad Boy 72" deck use 24" blades...
also, have you check the tire air pressure to make sure they are all up to spec...?
Click to expand...
Well that would leave no overlap; unless, BB is lying about the cut width as 3 x 24" is exactly 72". I have yet to see a mower with no blade over lap.

Stihl does lie about the bar length on their saws so maybe BB is taking up the same habit.


#21

H

Honest Abe

StarTech said:
Well that would leave no overlap; unless, BB is lying about the cut width as 3 x 24" is exactly 72". I have yet to see a mower with no blade over lap.

Stihl does lie about the bar length on their saws so maybe BB is taking up the same habit.
Click to expand...
actually I guess it's all dependent upon which Bad Boy dealer site one uses....

I just Googled this -
shop.badboymowers.com

PART #038-7230-00 72" HIGH LIFT FUSION BLADES (SOLD AS SINGLE BLADE)

Enhance your lawn care with our 72" High Lift Fusion blades. These specially designed deck blades provide increased lift for a more precise cut, resulting in a healthier and more manicured lawn. Upgrade your mowing experience with our high-performing blades. Specifications: 5/8 Center Hole...
shop.badboymowers.com shop.badboymowers.com

and it shows 24.218"

Hmmmmm..... :unsure:


#22

StarTech

StarTech

That gives 24-7/32" or basically just over 3/32" overlap between the blades.


#23

M

MParr

StarTech said:
Well that would leave no overlap; unless, BB is lying about the cut width as 3 x 24" is exactly 72". I have yet to see a mower with no blade over lap.

Stihl does lie about the bar length on their saws so maybe BB is taking up the same habit.
Click to expand...
24.218" from blade tips to blade tips.
shop.badboymowers.com

PART # 038-1030-00 6 PACK OF 72" HIGH LIFT FUSION FUSION BLADES

Enhance your lawn care with our 72" High Lift Fusion blades. These specially designed deck blades provide increased lift for a more precise cut, resulting in a healthier and more manicured lawn. Upgrade your mowing experience with our high-performing blades. 5/8 Round Hole Size 24.218" From...
shop.badboymowers.com shop.badboymowers.com


#24

M

MParr

Mower Blade, 24-3/16" | Oregon Products

www.oregonproducts.com www.oregonproducts.com


#25

B

BigBlueEdge

Honest Abe said:
Bad Boy 72" deck use 24" blades...
also, have you check the tire air pressure to make sure they are all up to spec...?
Click to expand...
Yes, tire pressures are at spec. How would tire pressures affect cut quality?


#26

M

MParr

The tire pressures must be set before making leveling adjustments to the deck.


#27

D

Douglas Lee

I had a simular problem with a 40" Gravely deck, I slotted the mounting
holes in one of the spindles to move it closer to the other blade.
Thanks,
Douglas Lee
*


#28

H

Honest Abe

BigBlueEdge said:
Yes, tire pressures are at spec. How would tire pressures affect cut quality?
Click to expand...
if the pressures are way out of range from one another then the deck can't be level....


#29

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
The tire pressures must be set before making leveling adjustments to the deck.
Click to expand...
Sure. But my issue isn't a 'level' cut, it is uncut/poorly cut strips of grass where the blades meet.


#30

B

BigBlueEdge

Honest Abe said:
if the pressures are way out of range from one another then the deck can't be level....
Click to expand...
This thread isn't about leveling the deck. Not sure how that has become a focus. The only reference to 'level' previously was about front-to-back tilt where someone suggested there shouldn't be any.


#31

H

Honest Abe

BigBlueEdge said:
This thread isn't about leveling the deck. Not sure how that has become a focus. The only reference to 'level' previously was about front-to-back tilt where someone suggested there shouldn't be any.
Click to expand...
if the blades are not level that can cause air flow disruption and weird cutting issues - Google can be your friend too.....

A "lawn mohawk" is typically caused by improper mowing, such as dull blades, uneven mower decks, mowing too fast, or excessive grass length. The blades are either torn, bent over by the mower's wheels, or laid down by the previous cut and not lifted into the cutting path, resulting in a strip of uncut or partially cut grass. Maintenance issues like a dirty mower deck or uneven tire pressure can also contribute to an uneven cut.

Mower-Related Causes
  • Dull or Damaged Blades:
    .
    Dull blades tear grass instead of cleanly cutting it, and damaged blades can lead to an inconsistent cut.

  • Uneven Mower Deck:
    .
    A mower deck that isn't level or has a caked-on underside can result in grass of varying heights.

  • Mowing Too Fast:
    .
    Speed can prevent the blades from having enough time to cut the grass properly, causing it to bend over instead of being cut.

  • Uneven Tire Pressure:
    .
    Underinflated tires on the mower can lead to an uneven cut.
Lawn & Mowing Practices
  • Overgrown Grass:
    .
    If the grass is allowed to grow too tall between mowings, the mower can struggle to cut it evenly.

  • Mowing Too Low:
    .
    Cutting too much grass off at once can lead to scalping and unevenness.

  • Improper Mower Turns:
    .
    How you turn the mower can create an uneven cut or a line where the wheels haven't properly cut the grass.

  • Uneven Ground:
    .
    High and low patches in your lawn can make it difficult for the mower to cut at a consistent height.


#32

StarTech

StarTech

Some just don't get it that there is only a 1/16 overlap if 72" true cutting width which means the OP has to have prefect blades. Either the deck cutting is not a true 72" cutting width or there needs to be more overlap. Which is what the OP is trying to get at.

OP see if you can find a Hustler dealer that will let you test fit a set of 24-1/2 5/8 center hole blades. This would give you a 1/4 overlap if they clear the deck sides and don't ping each other.

I wish I had one these decks in the shop to check this but I don't.


#33

H

Honest Abe

go mow your yard/lawn and take a good photo showing the mohawking so we can see for ourselves


#34

M

MParr

One more thing, Gator blades make for a horrible cut. If your grass is just a little damp, they will pack the deck with clippings. This reduces the vacuum needed for a quality cut.


#35

M

MParr

@StarTech
Rotary lists the #6026 as a fit. Maybe a local dealer would let @BigBlueEdge try a set for fit. If they fit without striking the deck or other blade tips, they would be a good performer.

038-7220-00

038-7220-00
www.rotarycorp.com www.rotarycorp.com


#36

H

Honest Abe

I've used Oregon G6's on a Gravely XL2148ZT, JD 345, JD 585, and now my Ferris IS2600 and never had a bad cutting or build up under the deck. That includes cutting 12"+ deep wet stuff . . . . .


#37

M

MParr

Honest Abe said:
I've used Oregon G6's on a Gravely XL2148ZT, JD 345, JD 585, and now my Ferris IS2600 and never had a bad cutting or build up under the deck. That includes cutting 12"+ deep wet stuff . . . . .
Click to expand...
I had a set of G6 on my Gravely Pro Turn 260 this morning. I took them off shortly after I started mowing. Grass soup was falling out all over the place. The entire deck was packed. I cleaned the deck out good and put on OEM Gravely blades to finish my 3 acres. I should have known better.
I side discharge.


#38

H

Honest Abe

MParr said:
I had a set of G6 on my Gravely Pro Turn 260 this morning. I took them off shortly after I started mowing. Grass soup was falling out all over the place. The entire deck was packed. I cleaned the deck out good and put on OEM Gravely blades to finish my 3 acres. I should have known better.
I side discharge.
Click to expand...
I'd blame the Gravely not the blades.... the blades worked great on my Gravely, it was the Gravely which was a POS, hence the JD's.....


#39

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
One more thing, Gator blades make for a horrible cut. If your grass is just a little damp, they will pack the deck with clippings. This reduces the vacuum needed for a quality cut.
Click to expand...
That hasn't been my experience that Gator blades lead to grass build-up under the deck. I've had Gator blades on my x758 since about 2017 and on the Rogue since the beginning in 2021. My Rogue hardly ever has build up. Of course I never mow when the grass is wet.


#40

M

MParr

BigBlueEdge said:
That hasn't been my experience that Gator blades lead to grass build-up under the deck. I've had Gator blades on my x758 since about 2017 and on the Rogue since the beginning in 2021. My Rogue hardly ever has build up. Of course I never mow when the grass is wet.
Click to expand...
They do a FAIR job on dry grass and leaves. However, high lift or OEM blades do a much better job. Remember, mower companies designed their blades to work best with their decks.


#41

M

MParr

@BigBlueEdge
Did you see my above reply about the blades that might fit your 72" Bad Boy?


#42

M

MParr

Honest Abe said:
I'd blame the Gravely not the blades.... the blades worked great on my Gravely, it was the Gravely which was a POS, hence the JD's.....
Click to expand...
🤣🤣🤣


#43

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
They do a FAIR job on dry grass and leaves. However, high lift or OEM blades do a much better job. Remember, mower companies designed their blades to work best with their decks.
Click to expand...
Not my experience. The Gators do a better job on both my X758's 60" deck and my Rogue's. I may well be an outlier though, because on my 7 acres there is a huge mix of different types of foliage, including bluegrass, quack/crabgrass, dandelions, creeping charlie, etc.


#44

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
@BigBlueEdge
Did you see my above reply about the blades that might fit your 72" Bad Boy?
Click to expand...
Yes. I'll look into those. Thanks.


#45

H

Honest Abe

some before and after results with Oregon G6 mulching blades set at 3" with the grass currently at about10" and damp grass today . . . .
the leaves and bark are from a couple Sycamore trees, huge leaves and tough bark - - -

20250905_140103.jpg20250905_140307.jpg20250905_141408.jpg20250905_141626.jpg20250905_141843.jpg


#46

M

mmoffitt

my 1.5 cents good day Sir what does the manufacturer tell you (tech rep/engineering)
Good luck


#47

StarTech

StarTech

All I can say it that BB has already gave me the wrong PN twice this year. First it was a brake cable and just last week the wrong spindle pulley.


#48

J

Johner

Sounds like the blade is running to slow. Might want to check the belt is installed properly. Are all the pulleys the same size?


#49

G

Gord Baker

BigBlueEdge said:
You might try getting a longer blade for the Centre Spindle and if necessary very carefully shorten it so it cannot touch the other 2 blades..
Click to expand...


#50

H

Honest Abe

Hmmmmm, well imagine that . . . . .

Cons & Common Complaints
  • Cut Quality:
    Some reviews indicate that the mower may leave "stragglers" or doesn't cut evenly in very tall or thick grass, potentially requiring a second pass


#51

StarTech

StarTech

Honest Abe said:
some before and after results with Oregon G6 mulching blades set at 3" with the grass currently at about10" and damp grass today . . . .
the leaves and bark are from a couple Sycamore trees, huge leaves and tough bark - - -
Click to expand...
You do realize that Ferris IS2600 with a 61" Deck uses three 21" which 3 are 63" so you have up to a half an inch overlap between the blades which is effectively one inch?

The BB discuss here has zero over lap if using 24"-24-1/8" blades on a 72" cut as 3 x 24" is 72".


#52

H

Honest Abe

I hear you....

since this problem seems to have started immediately upon getting this unit, and other customers have had/are having the same issue it seems this is an inherent manufacturing deficiency...

time to trade the dang thing in for a decent machine!


#53

F

farmerdave1954

I'd go to one of your neighbors who has a lawn with a different grass and make a pass with your mower. See if I different grass cuts clean. That quack grass is a very difficult grass to mow. I've had the same problem with it here. Round-Up and sowing a different grass fixed that problem. The pictures you sent look more like tire tracks than just poor cutting. If you are cutting grass 10" tall at 3", I'm not surprised it leaves tire tracks. If you make a second pass in the opposite direction, does it cut cleanly then? I've had this problem with a JD D140, 2 of them actually, and with both it was due to tip wear on the blades. New blades or proper sharpening fixed it. I never had the problem with new blades. If you have it with new blades of 2 different brands, either they are both too short, you have a deck with bad caking underneath (a DEFINITE cause of this problem), or it's a design issue. Sounds like it might be the later. I was considering a BB Maverick earlier this year. In all the reviews I read on it, I never heard this mentioned as being an issue. I went with a Caroni 93" rear discharge, 5-bladed, 3-point mounted finish mower instead. Also, don't dismiss the deck leveling adjustments or the tire pressure suggestions. Both will cause this problem as well. Don't know why exactly, but experience tells me it will.


#54

H

HoustonDave

StarTech said:
You do realize that Ferris IS2600 with a 61" Deck uses three 21" which 3 are 63" so you have up to a half an inch overlap between the blades which is effectively one inch?

The BB discuss here has zero over lap if using 24"-24-1/8" blades on a 72" cut as 3 x 24" is 72".
Click to expand...
No offense meant to anyone but saying " 3 blades X long means a cutting width of 3X" is not accurate when the blades are offset like in a mower deck.
That said, using a Deere Z535M I have tried multiple blade brands, mowed at less than walking speed, mow only dry grass, checked blade-to-blade distance and height offset (both minimal) and still get lines of uncut stalks along the lines of blade to blade intersection. Driving me nuts.


#55

R

RevB

BigBlueEdge said:
That's part of what I was wondering. Mine don't appear to move because I always clock them to not meet (stock size blades which wouldn't touch anyway) and when I remove them to sharpen they are never meeting. But I can see the potential risk.
Click to expand...
They move.....


#56

R

RevB

Honest Abe said:
if the pressures are way out of range from one another then the deck can't be level....
Click to expand...
As tho the ground is always level. 🤫🤔


#57

H

Honest Abe

farmerdave1954 said:
I'd go to one of your neighbors who has a lawn with a different grass and make a pass with your mower. See if I different grass cuts clean. That quack grass is a very difficult grass to mow. I've had the same problem with it here. Round-Up and sowing a different grass fixed that problem. The pictures you sent look more like tire tracks than just poor cutting. If you are cutting grass 10" tall at 3", I'm not surprised it leaves tire tracks. If you make a second pass in the opposite direction, does it cut cleanly then? I've had this problem with a JD D140, 2 of them actually, and with both it was due to tip wear on the blades. New blades or proper sharpening fixed it. I never had the problem with new blades. If you have it with new blades of 2 different brands, either they are both too short, you have a deck with bad caking underneath (a DEFINITE cause of this problem), or it's a design issue. Sounds like it might be the later. I was considering a BB Maverick earlier this year. In all the reviews I read on it, I never heard this mentioned as being an issue. I went with a Caroni 93" rear discharge, 5-bladed, 3-point mounted finish mower instead. Also, don't dismiss the deck leveling adjustments or the tire pressure suggestions. Both will cause this problem as well. Don't know why exactly, but experience tells me it will.
Click to expand...
I only posted those to show that the blades cut minute clippings and didn't leave rows of mulch or strips of high grass. The grass was still very damp, and the wind was almost blowing me off the machine. The cut is consistently level and even, and this whole area is our leach field, so I don't cut too low. In the spring during wet season I'll double cut to smooth it out a bit more....


#58

H

Honest Abe

RevB said:
As tho the ground is always level. 🤫🤔
Click to expand...
what you talk'n 'bout Willis, can't you see MY lawn is perfectly level..... 🫣


#59

G

GrumpyCat

If the OP wants to use longer blades then the correct answer is, “will it fit?” No detriment if longer blades fit. How much clearance to the deck? How much clearance between center blade and blades to either side?

3 x 24-1/8” has almost no overlap on a 72” deck.

BB has spec’ed and shipped wrong length blades before.


#60

D

Davenj4f

BigBlueEdge said:
Has anyone tried running blades that are a bit longer than the standard/recommended blade length for a particular model? On my Rogue 72" I've always battled two 'mohawks' of grass at the point between the three blades. It's not awful, as in completely uncut strips, but it is pretty noticeable everywhere as being two slight strips that aren't as flat as everywhere else. I was thinking of trying some blades that are just a bit longer than the stock "24 inch" blades to get a bit of overlap. Of course I'd ensure that the clocking of the blades is such that they never meet and touch each other. I haven't actually looked to see what other lengths are available, so maybe this idea is bunk if there are no ~25" blades out there...

I'm unsure why my Rogue behaves like this. It has occurred with both the stock blades and Gator G6 blades. I can't believe it is some type of adjustment and I know for a fact this occurs when my blades are freshly sharpened.
Click to expand...
The mower will normally do that when turning. You didn't say if when turning or otherwise. But one factor will greatly influence that happening. Your blades need to be sharp (always a given), and the edge at the end of the side that's sharpened must not be rounded. It should come to a point. Doesn't need to always be 90 degrees, but if the end is rounded, I find that the blades tend to push the grass away instead of cutting it. And if you have the correct blades for your mower, there shouldn't be more than 1/4" of space between the blade and the deck. At least this is my experience of commercial mowing for 10 years. I find that if I change my blades almost every day, they last longer, and it takes less time to resharpen and balance.


#61

L

LawnWizard

Just a couple of thoughts. 1) as stated above, mow at full throttle. 2) don't cut while turning, do three point turns. 3) check deck for debris or dents that cause loss of vacuum (lift). 4) spindle bearings going out can cause strips. 5) double check your blade heights compared to each other. If the center spindle is slightly higher (bearings) you can get strips. Don't forget to test spindles with the belt off so they can spin freely. ANY grinding or wiggle is a problem. If you do decide to try longer blades you have to be aware of contact with indentations on deck as well as each other. Hope this helps some!


#62

M

My Hoe

ILENGINE said:
Unless the blades are gear drive or clocked with a timing belt the blades will not stay clocked and will collide
Click to expand...
Came here to say the same thing. Not that I've ever even heard of a toothed "timing belt" on a mower deck that would allow for such "clocking" - and if it did exist, I would expect the belt to get knocked "out of time" by blade strikes into hard objects or just clumped up grass.


#63

StarTech

StarTech

Now I have seen both MTD and JD mowers timed decks. And JD has or had one the best full mulching decks that I have seen.


#64

G

Grasswhore

Is it possible(geometry wise) to put one longer blade only on the front center spindle to obtain more overlap. Tip to shroud is a fixed length on outside of blades. If there is more room from tip to front of deck....?


#65

S

Skippydiesel

Never done an Australian survey - My subjective observation -

Lawn mulching is rarely done, even collecting (harvesting) clippings not so common.
Why?
Simple - the clippings on the surface will be quickly consumed/processed by the organisms (worms/beetles/fungi /etc) living within the sward. The nutrients will be naturally returned to the soil, maintain soil organic/nutrient levels (soil quality) which in tern allows better moisture penetration and holding capacity. In short a healthy, drought resistant lawn.
Mulching requires more HP (fuel consumption) for little if any gain.
Harvesting clippings takes time, somewhere to keep (compost heap?) the clippings and results in nutrient efficient soil, which then must be aerated & fertilised adding unnecessary cost. 😈


#66

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

My Hoe said:
Came here to say the same thing. Not that I've ever even heard of a toothed "timing belt" on a mower deck that would allow for such "clocking" - and if it did exist, I would expect the belt to get knocked "out of time" by blade strikes into hard objects or just clumped up grass.
Click to expand...
Check out the John Deere freedom mulching deck. It has the toothed timing belt.


#67

M

macdoesit

You said it happened brand new. I would have taken it back and switched it for another one.


#68

StarTech

StarTech

ILENGINE said:
Check out the John Deere freedom mulching deck. It has the toothed timing belt.
Click to expand...
Bingo. And the local JD dealer repair shop couldn't tell me how to adjust the belt tension on the Freedom deck. I had work that out for myself.


#69

B

BigBlueEdge

Honest Abe said:
some before and after results with Oregon G6 mulching blades set at 3" with the grass currently at about10" and damp grass today . . . .
the leaves and bark are from a couple Sycamore trees, huge leaves and tough bark - - -

View attachment 71747View attachment 71748View attachment 71749View attachment 71750View attachment 71751
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's the type of cut I'm expecting. Where you really can't see where the individual blade edges were.

Here are a few pics I took last week that kinda demonstrate what I have going on. Obviously the rear wheels pack down the grass and that can be seen, but you can also see faint strips where the blades meet. They aren't really 'mohawks' of uncut grass but they are apparent.


PXL_20250903_222242813.jpg
PXL_20250903_222250127.jpg
PXL_20250903_222258139.jpg


#70

B

BigBlueEdge

mmoffitt said:
my 1.5 cents good day Sir what does the manufacturer tell you (tech rep/engineering)
Good luck
Click to expand...
They worked with me for quite a while on adjustments (belt tension, deck leveling) and got me the adjustable casters. It improved things but didn't eliminate the issue. They finally came up with "well, your northern grasses (MN) are just tough to get a good cut with, so that's as good as it gets" (unless you really slow down).


#71

B

BigBlueEdge

macdoesit said:
You said it happened brand new. I would have taken it back and switched it for another one.
Click to expand...
Well that ship sailed in 2021. But thanks for the tip!!


#72

B

BigBlueEdge

farmerdave1954 said:
I'd go to one of your neighbors who has a lawn with a different grass and make a pass with your mower. See if I different grass cuts clean. That quack grass is a very difficult grass to mow. I've had the same problem with it here. Round-Up and sowing a different grass fixed that problem. The pictures you sent look more like tire tracks than just poor cutting. If you are cutting grass 10" tall at 3", I'm not surprised it leaves tire tracks. If you make a second pass in the opposite direction, does it cut cleanly then? I've had this problem with a JD D140, 2 of them actually, and with both it was due to tip wear on the blades. New blades or proper sharpening fixed it. I never had the problem with new blades. If you have it with new blades of 2 different brands, either they are both too short, you have a deck with bad caking underneath (a DEFINITE cause of this problem), or it's a design issue. Sounds like it might be the later. I was considering a BB Maverick earlier this year. In all the reviews I read on it, I never heard this mentioned as being an issue. I went with a Caroni 93" rear discharge, 5-bladed, 3-point mounted finish mower instead. Also, don't dismiss the deck leveling adjustments or the tire pressure suggestions. Both will cause this problem as well. Don't know why exactly, but experience tells me it will.
Click to expand...

It's definitely not deck build-up. It is also definitely not blade wear since it happened with two sets of brand new blades. And it has happened even after very careful tire pressure checks and deck leveling (by me and the dealer back in 2021 and me since). So I think it is just how this design happens to handle my grass type.

I have 7 acres of country lawn. It's never going to be a manicured, perfect single-grass-type lawn like a city lawn might be. I'm not worried enough about this to take any 'corrective' action on the lawn. Just started the thread to get thoughts on slightly longer blades.


#73

B

BigBlueEdge

Davenj4f said:
The mower will normally do that when turning. You didn't say if when turning or otherwise. But one factor will greatly influence that happening. Your blades need to be sharp (always a given), and the edge at the end of the side that's sharpened must not be rounded. It should come to a point. Doesn't need to always be 90 degrees, but if the end is rounded, I find that the blades tend to push the grass away instead of cutting it. And if you have the correct blades for your mower, there shouldn't be more than 1/4" of space between the blade and the deck. At least this is my experience of commercial mowing for 10 years. I find that if I change my blades almost every day, they last longer, and it takes less time to resharpen and balance.
Click to expand...

It happens straight, but is worse when turning.

Both factory and Gator blades did this new (and sharpened), so it isn't from blade wear. There is just under 1/4" clearance between the blade and the shroud or deck sides.


#74

M

MParr

BigBlueEdge said:
It happens straight, but is worse when turning.

Both factory and Gator blades did this new (and sharpened), so it isn't from blade wear. There is just under 1/4" clearance between the blade and the shroud or deck sides.
Click to expand...
Have you had the chance to try the blades that I posted above?


#75

B

BigBlueEdge

MParr said:
Have you had the chance to try the blades that I posted above?
Click to expand...
No, not yet.


#76

M

mmoffitt

thank you hope things have gotten better!


#77

B

BigBlueEdge

Mowing season is almost done here. I likely won't be making any changes until spring.


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