Swisher ZT2454 Won't Start / Blows Fuse

StarTech

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Just so I understand - you're saying that since the regulator is not in the run circuit, it shouldn't cause a blown fuse even if it was faulty?
Correct as according the diagram the regulator would connected directly to battery side of the starter solenoid. Fuse is on the side feeding the ignition switch to power the fuel solenoid, hour meter, (run and start positions) and the trigger wire for the starter solenoid (when in the start position).
 

bertsmobile1

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So start by unplugging the engine to mower connection which should be near the starter motor
Fuse blows = wiring problem in the mower
Fuse does not blow = wiring problem in the engine

That is an old mower so a problem with chaffed wires is high on the cards and as you are coming out of winter also rat/mice nest is also high .
 

chris.wyse

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So start by unplugging the engine to mower connection which should be near the starter motor
Fuse blows = wiring problem in the mower
Fuse does not blow = wiring problem in the engine

That is an old mower so a problem with chaffed wires is high on the cards and as you are coming out of winter also rat/mice nest is also high .
Ok. The.problem is in the mower. Should i pull all the wires? I’ve already tested continuity so the short is probably chafed insulation that hasn’t broken the wire. Or do i test for continuity between ground and all ends of the wires individually?
 

bertsmobile1

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Does the new switch have the markings shown in the diagram Star posted in reply # 7
If so make 3 jumpers with a male at both ends
Unplug the engine plug to avoid accidentially putting power onto the kill wire
Now according to the same diagram this mower runs the power to trigger the starter solenoid through the two lap bar switches via the green wires
1) So unplug both lap bar switches and jump the wires at the plugs then jump the B & S terminals at the key switch engine should crank .
2) IF fuse does not blow then jump B & L terminals , hour meter should start counting nothing else should happen
If fuse does not blow then plug the key switch and try both positions
IF fuse does not blow one of the lap bar switches is bad or the plug has a bare wire or even spiders web shorting it so plug one in and turn key then the other till fuse blows .
IF the fuse blows at step 1 then the lap bar switches are OK & the green wire has a short some where
 

chris.wyse

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Does the new switch have the markings shown in the diagram Star posted in reply # 7
If so make 3 jumpers with a male at both ends
Unplug the engine plug to avoid accidentially putting power onto the kill wire
Now according to the same diagram this mower runs the power to trigger the starter solenoid through the two lap bar switches via the green wires
1) So unplug both lap bar switches and jump the wires at the plugs then jump the B & S terminals at the key switch engine should crank .
2) IF fuse does not blow then jump B & L terminals , hour meter should start counting nothing else should happen
If fuse does not blow then plug the key switch and try both positions
IF fuse does not blow one of the lap bar switches is bad or the plug has a bare wire or even spiders web shorting it so plug one in and turn key then the other till fuse blows .
IF the fuse blows at step 1 then the lap bar switches are OK & the green wire has a short some where

Does the new switch have the markings shown in the diagram Star posted in reply # 7
If so make 3 jumpers with a male at both ends
Unplug the engine plug to avoid accidentially putting power onto the kill wire
Now according to the same diagram this mower runs the power to trigger the starter solenoid through the two lap bar switches via the green wires
1) So unplug both lap bar switches and jump the wires at the plugs then jump the B & S terminals at the key switch engine should crank .
2) IF fuse does not blow then jump B & L terminals , hour meter should start counting nothing else should happen
If fuse does not blow then plug the key switch and try both positions
IF fuse does not blow one of the lap bar switches is bad or the plug has a bare wire or even spiders web shorting it so plug one in and turn key then the other till fuse blows .
IF the fuse blows at step 1 then the lap bar switches are OK & the green wire has a short some where
Perfect. Thanks for spending the time on this. I’ll give it a try tomorrow.
 

Freddie21

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The fuse is connected to the key switch and then to the solenoid and engine plug. Try unplugging the engine plug. If it still blows remove the small red wire from the solenoid. If it still blows, it sounds like a faulty key switch. If it doesn't blow with the engine plug disconnected, then from there it goes to the lights and the + side of the hour meter. Disconnect them and reconnect one at a time.
 

longsam1950

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I had a fuse blowing problem with my Cub Cadet. The wire to the head light had become worn and was shorting out the system, when I turned the key to on. I'm not a mechanic, I just kept looking at the wiring.
My 2 cents.
 

bertsmobile1

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The fuse is connected to the key switch and then to the solenoid and engine plug. Try unplugging the engine plug. If it still blows remove the small red wire from the solenoid. If it still blows, it sounds like a faulty key switch. If it doesn't blow with the engine plug disconnected, then from there it goes to the lights and the + side of the hour meter. Disconnect them and reconnect one at a time.
Freddie,
Please go back to the beginning of the thread
This is a Swisher ZTR, no lights and Star was good enough to post the wiring diagram for this mower.
HE has already tried with the engine unplugged to prove it was a machine wiring fault
 

chris.wyse

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Does the new switch have the markings shown in the diagram Star posted in reply # 7
If so make 3 jumpers with a male at both ends
Unplug the engine plug to avoid accidentially putting power onto the kill wire
Now according to the same diagram this mower runs the power to trigger the starter solenoid through the two lap bar switches via the green wires
1) So unplug both lap bar switches and jump the wires at the plugs then jump the B & S terminals at the key switch engine should crank .
2) IF fuse does not blow then jump B & L terminals , hour meter should start counting nothing else should happen
If fuse does not blow then plug the key switch and try both positions
IF fuse does not blow one of the lap bar switches is bad or the plug has a bare wire or even spiders web shorting it so plug one in and turn key then the other till fuse blows .
IF the fuse blows at step 1 then the lap bar switches are OK & the green wire has a short some where
OK. I had some time today to look at this. Here's what I did:

1. Disconnected engine plug. Turned ignition to ON. Fuse blown.
2. Jumpered lap bar switches and Ignition terminals from B to S. Engine cranks. Fuse OK.
3. Changed jumper on Ignition switch to B & L. No hour meter display. Fuse OK.
4. Removed jumper on ignition switch and plugged it in. Turned switch. Fuse OK.
5. Connected engine plug. Sat on seat to avoid any issue with kill switch. Turned ignition switch to ON. Fuse blown.
4. Disconnected hour meter. Sat on seat. Installed ignition switch jumper from B to L. Tested voltage between hour meter positive to screw on solenoid. 12 V.
5. Connected engine plug. Sat on seat. Tested voltage from hour meter positive to hour meter negative. 8 V.
6. Disconnected engine plug. Tested continuity between hour meter negative and engine plug terminal. Had continuity.
7. Followed green wire from opposite side of engine plug back to engine and disconnected. Tested continuity between engine plug terminal and the end of the wire. Had continuity.
8. Reconnnected engine plug and green wire to engine. Sat on seat. Tested voltage from hour meter positive to hour meter negative. 8 V.
9. Disconnected green wire from engine and moved it to the solenoid ground terminal. Sat on seat. Tested voltage from hour meter positive to hour meter negative. 12 V.

Also, I _think_ that I would need to have the engine plug connected for the hour meter to work. So I think that item 2) would never show anything at the hour meter. That's why I connected the engine plug and sat on the seat.

I assume that this means that the ground connection to the engine is bad. Tomorrow I'll see if I can clean the engine ground terminal and tighten the connector on the wire. When I removed the wire it seemed a little loose on the engine ground terminal.

In the diagram, with the wire (green) from the engine plug to the solenoid ground, it read 12 V at the hour meter. With the unmodified wiring (purple), it read 8 V at the hour meter.

I'm still not sure why this would cause a blown fuse...

Hopefully this is the issue, or I've provided enough information for someone to tell me what to try next.

Thank you all for your feedback. I feel a little lost here, and it's awesome that you guys took some of your time to help me out. I really appreciate it.

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bertsmobile1

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The set switch is a ground switch but the lap bar switches are power switches
If I read what you did correctly .
You jumped the lap bar switches at their plugs then powered the green wire by jumping B to S on the key switch plug & engine cranked that shown the green wires are fine
So you problem is in one of the lap bar switches
Plug one in leave the other jumpered then jump B to S engine cranks & fuse does not blow = good switch
Then reverse by plugging the other in and jumping the the previously plugged in one then jump B to S

Let us know what happens
 
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