Swapping crankshafts

[Pet982]

The Clymer Manual from 1994, says to put the thrust washer on the PTO end unless it has a ball bearing on the PTO end then it goes on the Mag side. The Clymer also says the 121000, 122000, 124000, and 126000 engines endplay spec is .002 - .030 all others are .002 - .008. Unless anyone I'll follow the info from Briggs and ignore Clymer (the Marine services manuals from make me scratch my head also.)

Below are taken from a Briggs (I think) manual that I found online on the L engines

 

[StarTech]

Yes that is from the newer single Briggs L-head manual. I just failed to look in it as I was just going by the IPLs here.

 

[Pet982]

I got the shim today and it turns out the crank (that I want, from the damaged engine) already had a shim on it from the factory. I thought it was something to prevent ware on the plastic timing gear. The good engine's crank has a metal timing gear and did not have one.

Edit: After looking at pictures that I took after I took the sump off I am not seeing the shim on the timing gear. I don't remember if it had come off stuck to the sump or not. I was careful to keep things in the right order and where they belonged and its been stored on the crank on top of the timing gear. now I'm confused

The manual says for the 120000 engines the shim goes on the flywheel end, but with it there, there is a lot of slop (see pic), but fits nice an snug on the PTO end.



With both shims on the PTO end end play is .013" but what are your thoughts on having 2 shims?