I have replaced the ignition switch, solenoid, PTO switch, starter, brake control and battery. If I jump the solenoid, it will turn over and start. If I try to start it with the key, it will click and engage the starter and just barely move the flywheel. Before it got to this point, I would have to wiggle the forward/reverse pedal sometimes to get it to start. I have done searches but so far I have not found any solutions to my issue. Any help would be appreciated. By the way, I have tried three total solenoids, the original plus two brand new ones. Pete
SW4200 2015 starter will engage but not spin the motor
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You have thrown to many parts at this unit without troubleshooting the problem. Your description of the problem indicates to me you have a bad connection, causing a voltage drop. The very first thing I would check is the battery negative cable to chassis connection. It may be loose and/or dirty. If that connection is clean and tight I recommend you go through this troubleshooting procedure to locate the problem.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks Rivets, I have seen your recommendations before and have gone through your suggestions. The ground cable is clean and tight. I did all six steps awhile back. The fuse was good. The connections on the battery were very clean. This mower has been garage kept since day one. Ground was clean and tight on both ends. Consistent power to the solenoid. I have a four wire solenoid. I have power to it with the switch in the start position and the ground is clean. I do have power, 12v, at the starter side of the solenoid with the key in the start position. I have checked power at the starter with the cable on and off of the starter and I do have 12v. I did check the ground circuit back and it is clean and corrosion free. With the mower starting when I jump the solenoid, I think I have been chasing the problem from the wrong side. Is there something on the Toro's safety systems that would cause this?
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Most likely either one or both of the battery cables is bad or failing to make a proper connection or have corroded through to the point that it can no longer pass enough amps .
Bypass each of them with jumper leads and see if the mower will key start .
Bypass each of them with jumper leads and see if the mower will key start .
Also, since you have a four terminal solenoid check to make sure the small terminal going to ground is making a good connection on both ends. A bad ground will not allow the solenoid to properly close the connections across the two large terminals, resulting in a lose of power to the starter.
Thanks both of you for the replies. What you are saying makes sense. I have actually tried the jumper cable on the positive side but not the negative side. I will head over in the morning and try your suggestions.
Checked all connections for corrosion and tightness on both ends and everything looked good. I bypassed the connections with the jumpers and the starter still just engaged and tried to turn the flywheel. I jumped across the solenoid and it will turn over and start.
Attachments
Please go through the procedure I posted and give us the results you get after each test. We need a better picture of what you are seeing. Remember we are not standing next to you and the sharper the picture you paint, the better our understanding of what you see and do.
Update:
I went through the procedure for the second time but did not get any results different than the first. Since the dealer had already replaced all the parts I mentioned, I figured the problem must be in one of the safety features. After checking and cleaning the connections on both console mounted switches I traced the wires to the interlock switch and the arm switch located under the pedal. Turns out that the arm switch had come completely loose. Manually depressed the switch and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I really was scratching my head on this one.
I went through the procedure for the second time but did not get any results different than the first. Since the dealer had already replaced all the parts I mentioned, I figured the problem must be in one of the safety features. After checking and cleaning the connections on both console mounted switches I traced the wires to the interlock switch and the arm switch located under the pedal. Turns out that the arm switch had come completely loose. Manually depressed the switch and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I really was scratching my head on this one.