sixthfinger57
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I have a Craftsman T240. Which direction, counterclockwise or clockwise to remove nut?
Stuck blade nuts
- Thread starter sixthfinger57
- Start date
Counterclockwise. or righty tighty lefty loosey. If this is the first time the blades have been off, a gorilla in combination with rust/grass in the bottom threads of the nut can cause some interesting torque to remove the first time. With MTD mowers with the 5/8 or 15/16 socket size I have ran into cases where a 600 lb/ft inpact wouldn't take them off.
Tiger Small Engine
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Breaker bar, cheater pipe, and PB Blaster.
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This why I use the Aircat 1150 I have with V style couplers and plugs. But there still some bolts that requires a 3/4" pull bar with a 5 ft cheater along 3/4" drive 15/16 socket and serious blocker for the blade. So far the only blade I can't get loosen has been those 5/8" bolts on the Gravely HD52, Even PB blaster don't help. I going to try my own Acetone/trans mix next time. I do know they are self tightening beyond the Gravely torque spec. And I know the Aircat should have plenty of torque as I have twisted 1/2" extensions in two with it, not mentioning how 1/2 lug studs I have twisted off due crossed lug nuts.
Now did get some kinda penetrating lube that worked but he has refused to tell me what it was. Why I don't know as it sure would be helpful here in my shop too.I hate having a sore back for weeks at a time from using the pull bar setup.
With the MTD these are exposed to moisture, impacts, and other things during mowing that can damage the end threads of the spindle shafts. This is why I have die to cleanup the threads when possible and install new flange nuts. I don't take chances reusing damage nuts.
But there are case where the ACE/OX torch has to used too to get things apart because rust or over torqued items.
Now did get some kinda penetrating lube that worked but he has refused to tell me what it was. Why I don't know as it sure would be helpful here in my shop too.I hate having a sore back for weeks at a time from using the pull bar setup.
With the MTD these are exposed to moisture, impacts, and other things during mowing that can damage the end threads of the spindle shafts. This is why I have die to cleanup the threads when possible and install new flange nuts. I don't take chances reusing damage nuts.
But there are case where the ACE/OX torch has to used too to get things apart because rust or over torqued items.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Time is money and I am getting old
So big nut splitter and an impact driver to run it
Customer pays for a new nut in any case & these come from the bolt shop in 200 's and get charged out at 1/2 the MTD rate of $ 8.75
Same story with overtightened bolts . Used to take the mower up to the top shed , fire up the Boomwade compressor and hook the 1" gun to them but this takes way longer than 3 chops through the head and a hit with the air chisel .
As Star said, run over with the die nut and charge $ 5.00 for that as well on a line item in the labour section of the invoice .
So big nut splitter and an impact driver to run it
Customer pays for a new nut in any case & these come from the bolt shop in 200 's and get charged out at 1/2 the MTD rate of $ 8.75
Same story with overtightened bolts . Used to take the mower up to the top shed , fire up the Boomwade compressor and hook the 1" gun to them but this takes way longer than 3 chops through the head and a hit with the air chisel .
As Star said, run over with the die nut and charge $ 5.00 for that as well on a line item in the labour section of the invoice .