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Hello, I am currently refurbishing my mower deck but one of my sealed bearings underneath the pulley has got stuck and I am wondering if anyone know how to remove it properly without damaging it (too much). Should it just slide/knock off or is it attached with something?
Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks very much.

CF

Assuming you are talking about your Westwood, Whats the approx age? Whats the size of the deck? Does it have 2 or three blades?

Hi, Yes I am talking about my Westwood T1200. It is 1989 with the standard 36" deck with 2 blades.

If you are refurbishing the mower deck why would you not install all new bearings and seals. If you get the numbers off the bearing and seals they aren't that expensive. In US you can buy then in most auto parts store by size or number. I order a lot of my bearings and seals off E-bay at very cheap prices.

Yes, I am going to install new bearings and seals however how would you suggest I get the old ones off? They really are stuck on the shaft...It's proving quite tricky.

Thanks.

No the bearing is not attached to anything apart from the shaft and the housing.
The housing should have two parts to it with an upper and lower housing case.
If the bearing is stuck on the shaft, the only way is a good hit with a hammer.
If you can use gas bottles to heat up inner race of bearing and cool down in water it should come off.
The bearings you should use is a 6205 RS.
Its just rust thats preventing it from coming off.

pugaltitude said:

No the bearing is not attached to anything apart from the shaft and the housing.
The housing should have two parts to it with an upper and lower housing case.
If the bearing is stuck on the shaft, the only way is a good hit with a hammer.
If you can use gas bottles to heat up inner race of bearing and cool down in water it should come off.
The bearings you should use is a 6205 RS.
Its just rust thats preventing it from coming off.

Click to expand...

Okay thanks very much for the reply. I will have another go at it tomorrow. Hopefully I will be able to get it off now. :smile:

Westwood mowers aren't common here in the USA and 2 piece bearing housings are probably less common. That's interesting enough to me I'd sure like to see a picture of the 2 piece housing if you have the time.

SandburRanch said:

Westwood mowers aren't common here in the USA and 2 piece bearing housings are probably less common. That's interesting enough to me I'd sure like to see a picture of the 2 piece housing if you have the time.

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They have stopped making them years ago. They have gone to a single housing now.
It was a tin housing that had a bearing and sat on 1 side of the deck and another housing that was on the other side of the deck with a shaft through the middle.

pugaltitude said:

They have stopped making them years ago. They have gone to a single housing now.
It was a tin housing that had a bearing and sat on 1 side of the deck and another housing that was on the other side of the deck with a shaft through the middle.

Click to expand...

That's very interesting to know. So do you know when it was phased out so I know for the next deck restoration I do?

Thanks.

cfmechanics said:

That's very interesting to know. So do you know when it was phased out so I know for the next deck restoration I do?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

No ignore that last one.
just checked and its available ｣20 + vat each.
Never replaced one though.

SandburRanch said:

Westwood mowers aren't common here in the USA and 2 piece bearing housings are probably less common. That's interesting enough to me I'd sure like to see a picture of the 2 piece housing if you have the time.

Click to expand...

This is 1 half of the housing

pugaltitude said:

They have stopped making them years ago. They have gone to a single housing now.
It was a tin housing that had a bearing and sat on 1 side of the deck and another housing that was on the other side of the deck with a shaft through the middle.

Click to expand...

So I'm guessing here the bearing races of both bearings contacted the deck? If not, is there a tubing spacer between the bearings inner races?

SandburRanch said:

So I'm guessing here the bearing races of both bearings contacted the deck? If not, is there a tubing spacer between the bearings inner races?

Click to expand...

Yes there is tubing Spacer. forgot to mention that.

The bearing are a light press fit on to the shafts and housings. The proper way would be to use a press with adapters to fit the bearings. Seeing I don't have this in my shop I use a large hammer and brass rod to take it apart in a mechanics vice. Once I have everything apart I clean every thing with sand paper. To put it back together I use a hammer and the vice as a press where I can. I use sockets to push on so when installing the bearing I am pushing on the bearing races and not the bearing balls.

I'm thinking there is a corrosion problem between the inner races and shaft. All I've worked on of this basic style the shaft to inner race fit was a slip fit.

Right, I have just had another go at getting the bearing off using everyones suggestions and I have just found out that on the shaft there is a very small lip which is stopping it from coming off. Does anyone know how I can get it past this lip and also when installing the new bearing how to get it over the lip again?

Thanks

cfmechanics said:

Right, I have just had another go at getting the bearing off using everyones suggestions and I have just found out that on the shaft there is a very small lip which is stopping it from coming off. Does anyone know how I can get it past this lip and also when installing the new bearing how to get it over the lip again?

Thanks

Click to expand...

I think I'm gonna have to have a good picture of that. My imagination is blank on that one.:biggrin:

I just quickly went out to my workshop to take a couple of pictures. One is from above with the bearing stuck on the shaft. Another is from the side with a line pointing to where the bearing keeps getting stuck.

Hope this makes sense to someone... :laughing:

SandburRanch said:

I'm thinking there is a corrosion problem between the inner races and shaft. All I've worked on of this basic style the shaft to inner race fit was a slip fit.

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If your bearing have a loose slip fit I would say you have something worn out. They should have a light press fit to the very lease. You might be able to install them by hand but if there is no resistance at at all that isn't good. I personaly like a good tight press fit that I have to press the bearing on unless its on something like a wheel bearing.

cfmechanics said:

I just quickly went out to my workshop to take a couple of pictures. One is from above with the bearing stuck on the shaft. Another is from the side with a line pointing to where the bearing keeps getting stuck.

Hope this makes sense to someone... :laughing:

Click to expand...

That lip isnt meant to be there.
Its been damaged probably by being hit by a hammer getting the pulley off.
Emery paper, file or grind it to get the lip off for easier removal.

pugaltitude said:

That lip isnt meant to be there.
Its been damaged probably by being hit by a hammer getting the pulley off.
Emery paper, file or grind it to get the lip off for easier removal.

Click to expand...

I would say the same thing if I was just looking at the picture, you may be totally right but there is a perfectly round lip all the way round about 5-10mm down the shaft. Before I grind it off are you totally sure it isn't suppose to be there?

I really appreciate the help, I just don't want to do something and then regret it :laughing:

cfmechanics said:

I would say the same thing if I was just looking at the picture, you may be totally right but there is a perfectly round lip all the way round about 5-10mm down the shaft. Before I grind it off are you totally sure it isn't suppose to be there?

I really appreciate the help, I just don't want to do something and then regret it :laughing:

Click to expand...

Its not meant to be there.
Just grind till lip is same thickness as rest of shaft.

pugaltitude said:

Its not meant to be there.
Just grind till lip is same thickness as rest of shaft.

Click to expand...

Okay thanks very much for the help. I will do that tomorrow :smile:

Like he said... likely from someone beating the end with a hammer...
A flat file will make removal easy ... :smile:KennyV

The lip you are talking about I see it is where the pulley or a flange has been. What has happened is that the pulley has worked loose causing the ridge on the shaft. To remove the ridge take a peace of fine emery and rip it into about a 1 in. wide strip and 1/2 rap it around the shaft shaft and sand down the shaft. You still want that press fit so don't over do it. When you reinstall your pulley if it is loose on the shaft use something like JB weld to tighen it. If anything is loose it will just get worst with use.

cfmechanics said:

I just quickly went out to my workshop to take a couple of pictures. One is from above with the bearing stuck on the shaft. Another is from the side with a line pointing to where the bearing keeps getting stuck.

Hope this makes sense to someone... :laughing:

Click to expand...

It looks to me as if someone at some time has used a hammer on the shaft end and mushroomed it. That can be fixed to precision in about 5 minutes with a good bench grinder and emery tape. Some skill will be involved too.:biggrin:

If you don't have a micrometer to measure with use an adjustable wrench (Crescent) to compare diameters of the normal and swollen area and to check for round or out of round.

Yes, the pulley has been off previously because someone has drilled puller holes so that could explain the lip which is on the shaft.

Thanks to everyone for explaining the best ways of removing this lip from the shaft, hopefully this time tomorrow I will finally have that bearing off and a nice smooth shaft.

I agree with you sandburranch, it has been mushroomed but I must admit I did add to it in a despirate attempt to get the bearing off. I will defiantly use my bench grinder to get it back to the right size and shape.

cfmechanics said:

Yes, the pulley has been off previously because someone has drilled puller holes so that could explain the lip which is on the shaft.

Thanks to everyone for explaining the best ways of removing this lip from the shaft, hopefully this time tomorrow I will finally have that bearing off and a nice smooth shaft.

I agree with you sandburranch, it has been mushroomed but I must admit I did add to it in a despirate attempt to get the bearing off. I will defiantly use my bench grinder to get it back to the right size and shape.

Click to expand...

Big hammer, bench grinder, and a smooth shaft, boy you sure got a different idea then I do as to what is smooth. If it was my job and needed a bench grinder it would be going to the recycle pile and get a new shaft. If the shaft is that bad turn it in a metal lath if you want to save it. Everyone has there own way of doing things. Sounds to me you can do the job over in about a years time because you are doing very poor workman ship.

reynoldston said:

The bearing are a light press fit on to the shafts and housings. The proper way would be to use a press with adapters to fit the bearings. Seeing I don't have this in my shop I use a large hammer and brass rod to take it apart in a mechanics vice. Once I have everything apart I clean every thing with sand paper. To put it back together I use a hammer and the vice as a press where I can. I use sockets to push on so when installing the bearing I am pushing on the bearing races and not the bearing balls.

Click to expand...

Why would a light press fit, bearing to shaft, be needed?

reynoldston said:

Big hammer, bench grinder, and a smooth shaft, boy you sure got a different idea then I do as to what is smooth. If it was my job and needed a bench grinder it would be going to the recycle pile and get a new shaft. If the shaft is that bad turn it in a metal lath if you want to save it. Everyone has there own way of doing things. Sounds to me you can do the job over in about a years time because you are doing very poor workman ship.

Click to expand...

A lathe just to get a lip off a shaft, its a lawnmower not a spaceship.
｣50 for a new shaft or a bit of time to grind or file then use emery to finish it off.
I know which is the quick and easier way. :wink:

reynoldston said:

Big hammer, bench grinder, and a smooth shaft, boy you sure got a different idea then I do as to what is smooth. If it was my job and needed a bench grinder it would be going to the recycle pile and get a new shaft. If the shaft is that bad turn it in a metal lath if you want to save it. Everyone has there own way of doing things. Sounds to me you can do the job over in about a years time because you are doing very poor workman ship.

Click to expand...

Steady. I am new to all this I am still learning. I am here to find out the best ways of doing things. Also it is only my hobby not job so I don't have all the equipment.

cfmechanics said:

Steady. I am new to all this I am still learning. I am here to find out the best ways of doing things. Also it is only my hobby not job so I don't have all the equipment.

Click to expand...

Well if you must use the bench grinder don't take off any more then you have to. stop to think this is a precision made shaft and everything must fit tight when you are done. If not replace the shaft or use JB weld and there is other products out there to tighen bearings and shafts. When you are all done just make sure you don't have any side play in anything. I know it can be hard with no equment to work with.

reynoldston said:

The bearing are a light press fit on to the shafts and housings. The proper way would be to use a press with adapters to fit the bearings. Seeing I don't have this in my shop I use a large hammer and brass rod to take it apart in a mechanics vice. Once I have everything apart I clean every thing with sand paper. To put it back together I use a hammer and the vice as a press where I can. I use sockets to push on so when installing the bearing I am pushing on the bearing races and not the bearing balls.

Click to expand...

*****************************************************************
SandburRanch Quote: Why would a light press fit, bearing to shaft, be needed?

******************************************************************
Waiting patiently for the answer.:laughing:

SandburRanch said:

*****************************************************************
SandburRanch Quote: Why would a light press fit, bearing to shaft, be needed?

******************************************************************
Waiting patiently for the answer.:laughing:

Click to expand...

Personally its not my mower or problem put then as loose as a goose for all I care. If that is what you want do it. I am just telling what I would do in my shop. If the blade comes off I am sure I won't know it or care.

reynoldston said:

Well if you must use the bench grinder don't take off any more then you have to. stop to think this is a precision made shaft and everything must fit tight when you are done. If not replace the shaft or use JB weld and there is other products out there to tighen bearings and shafts. When you are all done just make sure you don't have any side play in anything. I know it can be hard with no equment to work with.

Click to expand...

Yes, I will be as precise as possible. I did look at replacing the shafts but when I got a price for them I soon changed my mind so I will have to make do with the original ones.

I'm not sure but I think that reyoldston is concerned about the pulley and it's fit, not so much the bearing. I believe he feels that there is a pulley that is postioned at the end of the shaft where the damage has occured.
I think he feels that this pulley is not going to function well if the shaft is not perfectly round.
I think that some confusion has got this thread a little off track.
Am I correct in this assertion....reynoldston?

Mower manic said:

I'm not sure but I think that reyoldston is concerned about the pulley and it's fit, not so much the bearing. I believe he feels that there is a pulley that is postioned at the end of the shaft where the damage has occured.
I think he feels that this pulley is not going to function well if the shaft is not perfectly round.
I think that some confusion has got this thread a little off track.
Am I correct in this assertion....reynoldston?

Click to expand...

Yes, that is what I am talking about. I understand everything thats been said but yeah your right it has got a bit confusing :laughing:

Right everyone, I have just sanded down the shaft to make it even and smooth and still no luck with getting the bearing off. There is no lip for it to get stuck on now. Why is it still not coming off, I have spent 3 hours sanding it and I don't want to over do it.

cfmechanics said:

Right everyone, I have just sanded down the shaft to make it even and smooth and still no luck with getting the bearing off. There is no lip for it to get stuck on now. Why is it still not coming off, I have spent 3 hours sanding it and I don't want to over do it.

Click to expand...

You can't stop now keep going. Too bad you can't use a press. Maybe a bigger hammer. What are you hitting on steel to steel? As for myself I use a large brass or aluminum rod. Are you working in a good heavy duty mechanics vice? Do you have a way to heat or cut these bearings? It is hard for me to understand what problems you are having because I have equipment to do this type of work and have done a lot of it. This would be just a small easy 1/2 hour job in my shop and it looks like you have spent days on it. In my shop it would of been a 5 dollar labor charge + parts per spindle. Wouldn't it be better to take there mower spindles to a shop some place and had them rebuilt by a skilled mechanic? It just looks like everybody is giving you different advice and you have nothing but a big mess and it is getting worse?? I got fed up when everyone was telling me I didn't know what I was talking about and I have been doing it all my working life. It just seem everybody thinks this is just a simple job and you don't need any more then a hammer and grinder. I am going to say you do it your way and I will do it mine.

Yes, I am using steel on steel - I take it that's not a recommended way of doing it. I have heated the bearing but still no luck. I can cut it with a grinder though if you think that's a good idea, I am replacing all the bearings anyway.
I can't use a vice because the shaft is stuck on the deck until I get the bearing off unfortunately.

I totally understand what you are saying. It has come very apparant that you need more than a couple of tools to do this job with. I will continue to work on it and hopefully it will be off soon.

This thread and everyone who has commented in it has been very helpful and I am grateful of that.

Thanks everyone! :smile:

cfmechanics said:

Yes, I am using steel on steel - I take it that's not a recommended way of doing it. I have heated the bearing but still no luck. I can cut it with a grinder though if you think that's a good idea, I am replacing all the bearings anyway.
I can't use a vice because the shaft is stuck on the deck until I get the bearing off unfortunately.

I totally understand what you are saying. It has come very apparant that you need more than a couple of tools to do this job with. I will continue to work on it and hopefully it will be off soon.

This thread and everyone who has commented in it has been very helpful and I am grateful of that.

Thanks everyone! :smile:

Click to expand...

Is it a hand grinder and if so very carefully split the bearing with a thin stone or cut off wheel. My self I use a rotozip or die grinder with a cut off wheel. A few small marks into the shaft won't hurt a thing as long as you don't put them into the key slot. When I say heat the bearing I am saying red to white hot but shouldn't need to if you can split the bearing races unless you have a set of torches. Now remember the new bearing has to go on, so this lip or ridge still has to be removed. Do you have a good sharp hand file?

reynoldston said:

Is it a hand grinder and if so very carefully split the bearing with a thin stone or cut off wheel. My self I use a rotozip or die grinder with a cut off wheel. A few small marks into the shaft won't hurt a thing as long as you don't put them into the key slot. When I say heat the bearing I am saying red to white hot but shouldn't need to if you can split the bearing races unless you have a set of torches. Now remember the new bearing has to go on, so this lip or ridge still has to be removed. Do you have a good sharp hand file?

Click to expand...

Yes it is a hand grinder so that should do the job. I do have a brand new set of sharp hand files so yes I can remove the ridge/lip with that. Does it matter too much if I take a little to much off the ridge?

I got thinking about it. Steel on Steel can be very dangerous. A harden steel bearing and hammer. Make sure you are wearing very good eye protection. I have had to go to the doctors more then once to have a peace of steel taken out of my arm or leg.

When you are install the new bearing onto the shaft install the shaft into your vice and take your time and just keep trying the new bearing so you just have a little resistance but can slide it on by hand. Take your time and once your are to that point I am sure you will see what I mean.

reynoldston said:

When you are install the new bearing onto the shaft install the shaft into your vice and take your time and just keep trying the new bearing so you just have a little resistance but can slide it on by hand. Take your time and once your are to that point I am sure you will see what I mean.

Click to expand...

Okay, thanks very much.

cfmechanics said:

Okay, thanks very much.

Click to expand...

But he cant install the bearing on the shaft as its a housing that comes in 2 parts.
The housings have to be fitted to the deck then the shaft fitted.
Keep filing the lip until the bearing comes off. its only the pulley thats going back on where you have filed and the key and bolt will hold it.
Take care when removing housing and bearing as they can crack.

pugaltitude said:

But he cant install the bearing on the shaft as its a housing that comes in 2 parts.
The housings have to be fitted to the deck then the shaft fitted.

Click to expand...

That's a very good point, I didn't think of that.

Hi again everyone, just letting you know that I have finally got the bearing off. In the end I cut it off using reynoldston's suggestions.

Thanks for all the help