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Good info as usual, Robert! :thumbsup:

lawn mower fanatic said:

Good info as usual, Robert! :thumbsup:

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You know, even though that may be "Honda recommendations", I often wonder why there is always so much "controversy" about what's right or wrong to do for storage of ANY small engine equipment. I always see arguments in threads about whether to drain gas from tanks or just add double stabilizer and even some equipment(it may just be 2-cycle and not 4-cycle) that add the procedure to remove the spark plug, add a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and then manually crank the engine leaving it with the piston all the way at the top of the plug hole and replace the plug. My Mercury outboard even has instructions to use commercially available "fogging oil" in each cylinder. Just seems to me that regardless of the manufacturer there really should be a universally adopted(approved by all engine manufacturers) and proven methodology that will ensure optimal storage protection and after storage-performance for a two-storke or a four-stroke small engine. Can I get anyone to agree with that????:0)

djdicetn said:

You know, even though that may be "Honda recommendations", I often wonder why there is always so much "controversy" about what's right or wrong to do for storage of ANY small engine equipment. I always see arguments in threads about whether to drain gas from tanks or just add double stabilizer and even some equipment(it may just be 2-cycle and not 4-cycle) that add the procedure to remove the spark plug, add a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and then manually crank the engine leaving it with the piston all the way at the top of the plug hole and replace the plug. My Mercury outboard even has instructions to use commercially available "fogging oil" in each cylinder. Just seems to me that regardless of the manufacturer there really should be a universally adopted(approved by all engine manufacturers) and proven methodology that will ensure optimal storage protection and after storage-performance for a two-storke or a four-stroke small engine. Can I get anyone to agree with that????:0)

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I do not think there is a right way. If you talk to 20 people each one will have their own way and will swear their way is the best and only way it should be done.
Just like what oil to use. Or to use or not to use gas with ethanol.
I use everything year round so I do not have to worry about it.
I do have my theory on it and will keep it to myself as to not start a argument.

lawn mower fanatic said:

Good info as usual, Robert! :thumbsup:

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The thing I never understood is that people like to complain about ethanol gas all the time because it contains alcohol but then they want to use all these fuel stabilizers.

You want good info check these sites, you may change your mind about using that stuff when you find out what's in it.


Review of Gas Treatment & Fuel Additive Products - Alcohol Content


http://www.fuel-testers.com/gas_additive_alcohol_names.html

Some companies that manufacture and sell fuel treatment products are using deceptve marketing tactics, to convince you that they have a product which will "prevent and fix" all ethanol-related fuel problems - No such miracle product exists!


A few of the fuel treatment product companies have become upset by my inclusion of their product's ingredients on this website.
By law, this is public information; Since most gas additives are in the class of hazardous and regulated chemicals/compounds, all ingredients must be reported and available for public review. The sytem of MSDS reporting assures public access to this information.

I'll just add my $0.02 as to what I do...

4-Stroke
Sta-Bil and Marvel's Mystery Oil in every new gas purchase. According to the directions on their bottles. When nearing the end of the season, I buy a new jug of gas and top off all the tanks with that. Let them sit and fire 'em up when I need them in the spring. Been working well, and the 2008 model Briggs I have has no Ethanol related problems.

For the snow blower, that gets drained, run dry and the carb bowl dropped. A liberal application of WD-40 on the carb and in the carb. I do that because if the SB sees 5 hours a season that's a lot and I imagine the fuel gets quite watery as it does kick up snow and that melts all over the engine and tank..

2-stroke
I run Stihl UP oil in the 2 stroke gas. When I think the season is winding down I switch to a can of Tru-Fuel and run that until I'm done. That was a tip from the Stihl dealer as the TruFuel won't gum up the tiny passages and will not kill the rubber diaphragms in the carbs When done, they go away for the season and new gas gets bought in the spring.

This seems to work for me. I'm mainly a Briggs/Tecumseh/Stihl guy but have a Chonda on a generator that gets the same treatment and runs well too. The gen gets run for 30-60 minutes every month with a 50-75% load on it. That keeps that guy purring right along.