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I have a ms271 I have always used pre-mixed fuel however the last time the fuel was about 1 year old(stupid me) and I ended up with scored piston and whos know what else so now I am looking for a cyclinder and piston kit ( after market) does anyone know where I could find kits also
does anyone know if their are saws with the same config such as ms 260,ms291 etc.

thanks

The MS291 is the same thing, but a bigger piston/cylinder.

You have to watch the MS271 because they used two different cylinder piston setups on that saw. One has 3 holes and other has 4 holes on the intake side.

so ilengine is there an easy way of determining which one I have or do I take it apart to check and question 2 once I find out how will I know when I purchase do they normally have it written in description or is it a bit of a guessing game?

thanks

Fish said:

The MS291 is the same thing, but a bigger piston/cylinder.

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if it's a bigger cyclinder and piston would the anchor bolts still fit and than all other parts would they all fit as well??

Pull off the 2 side covers and you will be able to see the bolts
Yes you can upsize the saw, that is often my selling point when it comes to repairing them
I get my pistons & barrels from Farmer Tech in China , ordered directly from them.
Fitted perhaps 50 or 60 over the years & never had a problem .
Most important thing is to photograph every part before you remove it & after you remove it or you will be spending a lot of time here ,
Fish sells good quality gear via ebay you might like to PM him
And be very careful to put the piston on right way round and even more careful with the piston rings they and the piston are easily damaged if handled carelessly.
The piston will go in with nothing more than light finger force

The only danger you might come across if upgrading or replacing the piston cylinder is that they had a change in the intake boot, so you need to make sure that yours is the correct one or get the correct one if needed. I just include the boot with the piston/cylinder so the customer {or I} doesn't have to worry about it.
Here is a video I made one day on the MS271 teardown.

I made it mainly to show how I remove the clutch and flywheel, and my teardown time is fairly quick anymore.

HLsupply or ebay for cyl kits

I have read that the Nikasil coated piston and cylinder are better. I upgraded a MS290 to an MS390 with a Nikasil coated set. Maybe others could comment on this coating and if it is worth the extra $$'s.
Also, do not know bout the MS271 but a couple MS250's I have worked on had crank bearings with PLASTIC ball bearing retainers. I like a better quality bearing and would look at the MS271 bearings as well to make sure they are good quality (IE not Plastic retained ball bearings)

I bought the non nikasil kit and still runs strong after 2 yrs. Just don't make fatal mistake on any saw and go 50 to 1. No less then 40 to 1 or risk smokeing the cyl. I have used this rule for the last 5 yrs of business and never had a problem.

Ok to really fix my MS271 I plan to rebuild using MS291 cyclinder and piston kit I will be using a new intake boot as well as all the new parts. reason for this is I scored the piston with bad fuel mixture and cannot seem to find MS271 cyclinders anywhere so I'm going with ms291 parts hopefully all these parts when I get will fit the ms271 framing and I will check out the Nikasil coated parts

well I think right I have used 50 to 1 mixture from Stihl for years and never had a problem till now but this could be my own fault as the 50-1 fuel I used was at least 1 year old

Clake4341 said:

Ok to really fix my MS271 I plan to rebuild using MS291 cyclinder and piston kit I will be using a new intake boot as well as all the new parts. reason for this is I scored the piston with bad fuel mixture and cannot seem to find MS271 cyclinders anywhere so I'm going with ms291 parts hopefully all these parts when I get will fit the ms271 framing and I will check out the Nikasil coated parts

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check those bearings and replace if plastic caged.

dont use pre-mix fuel. Check out what Chickanic has to say. you may have burned your saw by using pre-mix. She has a couple rants on pre-mix and does not like the fuel at all. There are a couple vids you can search for on her youtube page. here is one.

Devolve into an oil thread???

Even if you use the correct fuel mix as the saw's engine ages the running mixture will gradually lean out as the metering diaphragm stiffens. This leaning out will cause cylinder damage over time. And this is not corrected before the new cylinder is installed it will also suffer the same damage.

Here I use a Pro multi mix oil that specs it is for 16:1 to 50:1 engines. So far in 13 yrs other than me straight gassing a couple leaf blowers I had only 2 cycle toasted and it was one I loaned out while I was repairing a BG86 blower. The user claimed to have use Stihl fuel oil in it. Well according to the cylinder damage I saw it was straight gassed.

Fish said:

Devolve into an oil thread???

View attachment 63116

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That would start the new year off right.

Hammermechanicman said:

That would start the new year off right.

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Well then, let us do it proper.

And Remember .... 89 octane non-ethanol fuel ...

Oil thread!!!!!!!

Ok, the ground rules are:
Check all guns and knives at the door.
No kicking, spitting or scratching.
No throwing of oil bottles or beer bottles.
No kicking people's dogs.
Only mild profanity allowed.

And no bad-mouthing Amsoil!!

Fish said:

And no bad-mouthing Amsoil!!

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Well. Maybe just a little.

Hammermechanicman said:

Well. Maybe just a little.

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I'll use almost anything. I just like starting oil fights.

Fish said:

I'll use almost anything. I just like starting oil fights.

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Last few years been using red armor. The gallon jug is about empty so will change. I have 4 or 5 other kinds of oil i use sometimes. Never burned anything up. I Just like stirring it up and watching the "my oil is best" fights. The best fights are over on the OPE forum.

I bet noone has ever said that this is a slippery slope.

I sort of expected more form a pro so was very dissapointed by the video
Two fundamential principles totally wrong
1) If you change the fuel then you need to readjust the carburettor to suit the fuel being used
2) while water will be adsorbed into fuel according to the laws of partial pressure variations that amount of water is neglegable compared to the very large volume of water that will condense in the tank from the humid air when the temperature drops or as most people will know it DEW and that is determined by the volume of humid air in the tank and not the amount of time the fuel cap is off
And that is mechanics 101 stuff, hopefully taught to apprentices in their first week .
Very very disapointing indeed so her videos now go in the "do not watch list "

chuckpen said:

I bet noone has ever said that this is a slippery slope.

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only if you use synthetic oil on it